I thought it would be more fair to start a new thread than to take away from another.

So I sprung for the Pod circuit made by Space Circuits

It fits into the bottom grill part. only a small hole needs to be cut into the bottom of the pod's hull ( i made the hole bigger than strictly needed, but I've got other plans for that) and the pod's floor covers it completely.

here is the start of the cabin lights.
a 3mm led will fit just fine in those four lights above the dashboard but I've got to tone down the brightness. they're blinding! This is where my total ignorance of resistors comes in. Anybody got an idea of what I should use?

I'm running 9v, so I need to know what color bands I should be looking for to get a nice dim light.

here is the start of the cabin lights.
a 3mm led will fit just fine in those four lights above the dashboard but I've got to tone down the brightness. they're blinding! This is where my total ignorance of resistors comes in. Anybody got an idea of what I should use?

I'm running 9v, so I need to know what color bands I should be looking for to get a nice dim light. Ask the guys that sold you the core?

sorry for the confusion...the core I'm thrilled with. Just perfect.

it's the cabin lights (a different animal alltogether) that I would like to dim.
those are prewired lights I got from Oznium .com. there wired for 12v, but I thought I'd go to Radio shack and pick up some "raw" 3mm bulbs to put there and needed to know what resistors would be best.

Looks cool, but for me that's more like the "Bentley" of pod circuits. :) Looking forward to seeing the finished model.

sorry for the confusion...the core I'm thrilled with. Just perfect.

it's the cabin lights (a different animal alltogether) that I would like to dim.
those are prewired lights I got from Oznium .com. there wired for 12v, but I thought I'd go to Radio shack and pick up some "raw" 3mm bulbs to put there and needed to know what resistors would be best.

That core system looks sweet.

I painted a thin coat of white/grey paint over mine. Still came out white but not with the glare factor.

here is the start of the cabin lights.
a 3mm led will fit just fine in those four lights above the dashboard but I've got to tone down the brightness. they're blinding! This is where my total ignorance of resistors comes in. Anybody got an idea of what I should use?

I'm running 9v, so I need to know what color bands I should be looking for to get a nice dim light.

The best answer requires knowing the specs for the LEDs you're using.

A guess is they are 3.5V (sometimes called forward voltage) and require about 20mA current.

Now you need to calculate the minimum size resistor to provide that current at that voltage given a 9V source.

You could use paper and pencil, but I prefer a calculator. Here's one: LED Calculator (http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz) (it also gives you a handy color guide for the resistor bands)

Try inputting the values 9 volts source voltage, 3.5v diode forward voltage, and 20mA. It gives you 330ohms.

330 ohms is the typical resistor to use on a typical LED when you desire the greatest output from a 9V source without frying the thing.

Since you want dim, you want a greater size resistor. Try lowering the current to half of 20mA or just 10mA. This results in a 560ohm resistor.

The amount of light output is probably a curve, so you may not want to go that low (high of a resistor). Try different size resistors greater than 330 ohms until you get the effect you like.

Use a breadboard to wire components together to test without soldering them. (here's an example of a breadboard (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2734154&cp=2032058.2032230.2032265&parentPage=search&summary=summary&accessories=accessories&kw=breadboard&techSpecs=techSpecs&currentTab=features&custRatings=custRatings&sr=1&features=features&origkw=breadboard&support=support&parentPage=family)). You'll need some jumper wires to connect stuff: wires (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103801&cp=2032058.2032230.2032265&parentPage=search&summary=summary&accessories=accessories&kw=breadboard&techSpecs=techSpecs&currentTab=features&custRatings=custRatings&sr=1&features=features&origkw=breadboard&support=support&parentPage=family). Get a bag of assorted resistors (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062303&cp=2032058.2032230.2032267&parentPage=family) while you're at it.

Here's a site (http://www.iguanalabs.com/breadboard.htm) with a tutorial on how to use breadboards. (they've got a lot of other great tutorials (http://www.iguanalabs.com/maintut.htm)too!)

Steve,
this is the exact kind of brain work I was hopin' somebody would do for me.

thanks heaps!

Lou

I'm digging this kit, but it's a bit of a chinese puzzle box to get together.

tell me if I'm crazy, but I'm thinking if I cut the pins that go from the interior floor piece to the bottom of the hull, I can build the whole interior and attach it to the front hull plate. then I'm free to build the whole outer shell (sans front plate) and sand the seams and paint and such. Once that's done, I could slide the front plate/interior in place and only have that one seam to worry about. I could still use the pins in the back hull and wall to pull the whole thing together and depending on the fit, could even opt to not glue them together in case I ever needed to service any electronics.

Since I'm planning on scratch building the piece to cover the roof seam, this seems like a natural way to go.

any thoughts?

Lou, I think the idea sounds good. I glued my sides in place 1st, and simply pressed my back panel in place, and it fits very tightly. The front piece of mine will probably be crazy glued in spots, just so it fits tight. My top piece fits tight, and is simply snapped into location. If I need to get to my electronics, I can simply remove the front piece, since it will not be glued really fast. I made a ceiling piece out of plastic sheet for inside, and it really does cover the pins and locator holes nicely. I even made an inside escape hatch by cutting down a wheel rim from an extra Delorean rim I had from a "Back to the Future" kit, and it helps add realism to the kit.

I used that 20 dollar chaser light set I mentioned awhile back for the core, and it's beautiful! I frosted the core lens with dullcote, and at slow speed it simulates the cores lighting very well. So glad I found that light set on evilbay! Now, I need one to finish my J2's core. If I was puter savvy, I'd post a pic or vids, but alas, I can't do it. Just take my word for it...they worked out well. I also measured, and both kits will fit in the pre-made plexiglas display case I found at A.C. Moore for 16 bucks. All these add-ons are really falling into place nicely.

Best of luck on your kit Lou. I'm taking a day or two off, then I'll start tackling the Chariot next.

Sincerely,
Scorp.

"Boldly GO!" :woohoo: :wave:

Scorp,
I remember you posting about that display case
I looked on AC Moore's site for that case, but I got a goose egg.

would you have a model number I can take to a store for reference?

Lou

Lou, it's a "Pioneer" brand case. It's dimensions are: 15 1/2 X 7 x 6.
Tag says - Clear case - stock #45524 30576.
A.C. Moore had them on sale last weekend, and I got it for 16 bucks, and change. It usually runs around 20 dollars. Check in the section where they have pre-made basketball, football, & flag cases. That's where I found it. One word of caution: open the box, and inspect the case before you leave. I found one that had a slight scuff on it, but the one I bought is crystal clear.

You can put the Pod & the Chariot in it side by side, with about an inch to spare between them. The Chariot clears the height nicely, and the Pod leaves about a quarter inch height opening, but they DO both fit. I'm going to make a sand/planet base surface for mine, with a few small boulders and alien plants.

I'm also going to make a wooden base for the whole case to fit on, and hollow out the bottom, to wire my electronics and battery boxes into. Add a Lost in Space nameplate, and viola'....finished!

If ya can't find one Lou, let me know. I might be able to locate one around here, if still interested. Best of luck!

Sincerely,
Scorp.

"Boldly GO!" :woohoo: :wave:

Scorp,
Thankx for the info. I'm out the door to go on the hunt. I'll let you know what I find.

But first...An apology for a show of bad taste.

In my first post I gave a plug for the circuit I'm using on this build. It was pointed out to me sometime later that I wasn't showing the proper respect to the sponsor of this board by posting a link to it.

This was certainly NOT my intention.

I've removed the link and ask VooDooFX to forgive the menal lapse (hey, now you know why they call me "Dummy") I know that folks here are free to mention alternatives to only using VDFX products, but it was in poor taste to include the link.

Mea Culpa

Lou

Scorp,
Thankx for the info. I'm out the door to go on the hunt. I'll let you know what I find.

But first...An apology for a show of bad taste.

In my first post I gave a plug for the circuit I'm using on this build. It was pointed out to me sometime later that I wasn't showing the proper respect to the sponsor of this board by posting a link to it.

This was certainly NOT my intention.

I've removed the link and ask VooDooFX to forgive the menal lapse (hey, now you know why they call me "Dummy") I know that folks here are free to mention alternatives to only using VDFX products, but it was in poor taste to include the link.

Mea Culpa

Lou No apology needed, everthing is "OK".
Thanks for your support!

Randy Neubert
VoodooFX
:)

Thanks Randy!

and Scorp, Thanks for "sending" me to AC Moore! Dude, the place was stocked with cases! I ended up getting a 15.5 x 7 x 6 with a mirror bottom for 20.00. normally 29.00

not quite the same deal you got, but still pretty sweet. And I know they have more in different sizes.

gotta add them to my list of hobby haunts.

Glad to help out, Lou! I know what ya mean bout A.C. Moore. They are MY case place now!

I just went to radio shack and found a micro toggle switch to mount on my case, so I can power up my Fusion Core without removing the case cover.

And, I just started the painting of the Chariot today. I got my luggage rack, luggage cases, seats, and most of my orange pieces painted. I'm still thinking of masking off and painting the orange and silver trims on the canopy. The kit really is looking nice. I might even put a few lights in it that I found at Michaels. They had a nice battery operated string of wheatbulb lights for 4 bucks. I might light up the dash, and the robot. I can't wait to put it in the case next to the Pod once it's done.

Best of luck with the cases Lou, and glad you found ones you liked! Keep in touch! I've enjoyed your stuff ever since we dealt before and I got those Polar Lights 1:350 NX-01 templates from you. They worked wonders, like all your stuff does.

Sincerely,
Scorp.

"Boldly GO!" :wave: :thumbsup:

heres a pic of updated work.
you know there is plenty of room to run wiring in this kit except in the one place you really need it.. along the ceiling.

I had built this elaborate false ceiling panel only to find that it was too wide at the front, and would not allow the front plate to fit in place as it should.

So, whilr I re think that, here are some pics of what did manage to get done. including some custom work on the "dashboard" to make a radio.

I beefed up the trim only to find it conflicted with the front set of suppport beams. so i had to cut them back so the front consol would fit. AAGRH

at the currents and voltages that we're running, an alternative to using thick insulated multi-strand wire is to get a spool of armature wire.

The stuff is coated with a thin coating of insulating material (it can be scraped off the ends where it needs to be soldered). The main advantage is it's super thin as it's intended for wrapping armatures (magnetic motor cores). Magnet wire link (http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2032240&cp=2032058.2032227&allCount=5&fbc=1&f=PAD%2FCable+Type%2FMagnet&fbn=Cable+type%2FMagnet)

It's so thin it's almost "in scale" with what would pass for conduit... (potential for wiring chariot roof spotlights).

since I had to rip out the ceiling, I took the time to rewire the leds for the headlites (front and back)

these are much more streamlined and mean less wire running around.
I don't know why I didn't think of it before

I'm not very knowledgeable about electronics, but would a POT(potemtiomiter(SP?)) work to adjust the voltage ? These components have a shaft in the center, or the smaller ones have a slot that can be turned with a small screwdriver to adjust the amount of current running through the curcuit. This might allow you to adjust the brightness of the LED's without mucking up the rest of the curcuit.
Can someone with the knowhow comment on this please?


L8R :wave:

Dave

It would work fine for 1 led. But you would need 1 pot for each led. This poses the obvious problem of having room for them.

I'm not very knowledgeable about electronics, but would a POT(potemtiomiter(SP?)) work to adjust the voltage ? These components have a shaft in the center, or the smaller ones have a slot that can be turned with a small screwdriver to adjust the amount of current running through the curcuit. This might allow you to adjust the brightness of the LED's without mucking up the rest of the curcuit.
Can someone with the knowhow comment on this please?


L8R :wave:

Dave

Sure. They are simply a variable resistor. You would need to use one that varies the resistance in a range that works correctly. It might involve a pot plus a resistor to get a good base resistance so you don't risk burning out the LED.

It would also have the advantage of increasing the brightness if you wanted to display it in a brightly lit room.

Here are some. (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?sr=1&support=support&accessories=accessories&origkw=potentiometer&summary=summary&custRatings=custRatings&productId=2062353&cp=&kw=potentiometer&currentTab=custRatings&techSpecs=techSpecs&parentPage=search&features=features&tab=summary) Help to get an ohm meter (here's a cool multi tester! (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176&cp=&sr=1&kw=multi+tester&origkw=multi+tester&parentPage=search))

It would work fine for 1 led. But you would need 1 pot for each led. This poses the obvious problem of having room for them.

Well, in the case of similar LEDs you could wire them in series with a single pot.

Or you could have a resistor on each LED, wiring them in parallel and use the pot between the power supply and the model. That's probably the way I'd go, and use an external power supply. You'd have to make sure the pot can handle the current for all the lights if you go this route. And if you have other doodads besides LEDs you might want a separate unvaried power lead.

Hi there, I like the look of your pod core light, can you tell me where you came accross it and how much it went for?

Thanks, Phil

pm sent

Hi there, I like the look of your pod core light, can you tell me where you came accross it and how much it went for?

Thanks, Phil

I'm interested too. Lou, can you PM with the same info please ?