So what's the consensious on advancing timing on 17.5/21.5 motors? I'm currently running a 21.5 in an sk spec car( spec tires, 1600 trinity batts, spec body etc ) last nite ran for first time, ran good but my brushed system (qc2 with a closed end bell duratrax/traxis I can't remember) was always a little faster, 3.6s vs 3.7s on a bull ring, a knowledgable racer told me to crank up the timing but I thought that would only raise the rpm on an otherwise torquey motor, I also run a 17.5 ksg on the same track. thanks in advance. :dude:

what ESC are you using w/ the 21.5?

(I ask bacause I've seen a couple guys using the LRP TC actually have to back the motor timing off - and using the timing settings in the speed control)

Otherwise, I think everyone I've seen so far has them pretty much cranked to the edge of the first solder tab.

what ESC are you using w/ the 21.5?

(I ask bacause I've seen a couple guys using the LRP TC actually have to back the motor timing off - and using the timing settings in the speed control)

Otherwise, I think everyone I've seen so far has them pretty much cranked to the edge of the first solder tab. I have a LRP tc with the mode set to #2, is that the feature you use to advance the timing without actually doing it physically ? (borrowed esc and new to bl thanks for the help. :dude:

My experience of changing the timing is this, all it does is move the "sweet spot" on the motor. I adjusted mine and spent 3 weeks chasing it trying to get my laptimes back where they were before I screwed with it. Until they make an effective brushless dyno, there is really no sense in screwing with it unless you have a way to test the output of the motor without spending weeks figuring it out on track.

My experience of changing the timing is this, all it does is move the "sweet spot" on the motor. I adjusted mine and spent 3 weeks chasing it trying to get my laptimes back where they were before I screwed with it. Until they make an effective brushless dyno, there is really no sense in screwing with it unless you have a way to test the output of the motor without spending weeks figuring it out on track.Thanks Casper I had heard/read some of the same but if there's anything left to squeak out more I want it lol :dude:

I don't have the TC Version of the LRP, but I've been told YES on the settings as far as what changes the timing on the LRP TC.

(I loaned one of my 17.5's w/ FULL timing to someone who used it w/ a LRP TC - and geared it like the GTB guys were geared...and the LRP TC was in full timing mode - MOTOR came back MELTED (Literally)

NO Thermal SHUTDOWN on LRP - so Be careful!

I don't have the TC Version of the LRP, but I've been told YES on the settings as far as what changes the timing on the LRP TC.

(I loaned one of my 17.5's w/ FULL timing to someone who used it w/ a LRP TC - and geared it like the GTB guys were geared...and the LRP TC was in full timing mode - MOTOR came back MELTED (Literally)

NO Thermal SHUTDOWN on LRP - so Be careful! Wow! I heard that, so far after a 4 min race I'm only at 105, next time I'll change the mode to 5 or 6 and see what I get, thanks for the info, sorry about the motor. :dude:

reggie's dad,

Just like the 'BIG DOGS', sometimes you have to TOAST equipment to find out where the Breaking Point is.

What's really weird I guess is, the guys running the TC, once they backed the motor timing off and just used the ESC to control it - they've been coming off the track a TON cooler then when they had it cranked. (and they went faster)

reggie's dad,

Just like the 'BIG DOGS', sometimes you have to TOAST equipment to find out where the Breaking Point is.

What's really weird I guess is, the guys running the TC, once they backed the motor timing off and just used the ESC to control it - they've been coming off the track a TON cooler then when they had it cranked. (and they went faster)Not ready to be a BIG dog yet just an old one, thanks to all ,I'm going to adjust thru the esc and spend more time on the setup limited as it is on an SK/spec car. :dude:

Doesnt,an LRP change timing on the motor due to load or rpm?or is it fixed like 12* more than say what a novak has?

I'm not sure how the LRP TC does it's timing, but it sounds like it does it on RPM and Load or something, cause I've been told it also can back off the timing when it's not needed. (NOT SURE HOW THAT WORKS)

When i talked to cochran he wasn't 100% but sounds close to what he mentioned with what the LRP Engineers were saying.I guess it;s varible ,which explains why an lrp seemd to have a bettter feel and smoother say for sedan\offraod applications,considering i have the novaks set like light switches thru my transmitter for high bite oval.

Good info on here, I just started running a 13.5 with an LRP on dirt oval. On a real sticky track last night I ran the first heat on setting 3 and it felt real good, raised it to setting 8 and my lap times fell off mostly in the second half of a 4 minute race. Maybe I should be taking some gear out? Motor temps are around 150-160 and the timing is maxed out already on the motor. Any opinions??

Here is something I noticed when I replaced the rotor in my 17.5 motor whitch I never had any luck getting it to go I even installed ceramic bearings in it and made sure it wasnt the esc so after trying different gearing and timing changes I ended up buying another 17.5 whitch ran much better. So When zubie was showing me how to use the speed meter I had just baught he told me the rotor he was checking whitch happened to be the one out of the 17.5 that I coulnt get to go would be better off as a fridge magnet it was measuring 1030 and 1028 hmmm go figure. Well after installing a new rotor whitch measured 1220 and 1236 on the speed meter The motor still didnt go that well and was bigger turd with a new rotor then it was with the old weak rotor I was ready to toss the whole motor but after advancing the timing and gearing up 3 teeth it came to life in a very big way and is even better then my other 17.5....

Here is something I noticed when I replaced the rotor in my 17.5 motor whitch I never had any luck getting it to go I even installed ceramic bearings in it and made sure it wasnt the esc so after trying different gearing and timing changes I ended up buying another 17.5 whitch ran much better. So When zubie was showing me how to use the speed meter I had just baught he told me the rotor he was checking whitch happened to be the one out of the 17.5 that I coulnt get to go would be better off as a fridge magnet it was measuring 1030 and 1028 hmmm go figure. Well after installing a new rotor whitch measured 1220 and 1236 on the speed meter The motor still didnt go that well and was bigger turd with a new rotor then it was with the old weak rotor I was ready to toss the whole motor but after advancing the timing and gearing up 3 teeth it came to life in a very big way and is even better then my other 17.5....I can't really complain about the motor its only off a little bit, I'm just trying to understand what does what to make sure I'm getting all I can out of it. :dude:

I have a question,I want to put brushless in my clod it takes two motors.....What do i have to do to make one run backwards is it like brushed just turn the endbell if thats what you want to call it or is it as simple as changing the blue and orange wires around on the motor or will that hurt the motor

I have a question,I want to put brushless in my clod it takes two motors.....What do i have to do to make one run backwards is it like brushed just turn the endbell if thats what you want to call it or is it as simple as changing the blue and orange wires around on the motor or will that hurt the motor
Two options, but one probably won't work.

If you use a sensorless motor and controller, you can just switch two wires to reverse the direction. But that probably won't work in a Clod if you need fine low speed control.

Other option: Get an XBR - it has a programming option to reverse the rotation of the motor. But then you are limited to the 8.5 turn motors at a minimum. Of course if you want to run a hotter motor (and go faster) the sensorless approach might work.

You can't just swap wires on a sensored motor.