In my first attempt at building a four track,I find myself stumped in attempting to finish my track and I wanted tosee if there were any local builder who might be able to help me finish?

What's got you stumped? Plenty of help @ Hobby Talk?

Hey sj.......................didn't you just win a nice camaro on fleabay???

I followed the directions on the hoslotcarracing website and tried wiring the Nuremberg layout but I made a few dumb mistakes which frustrate me. In trying to make my drvers stations I put made the spot for my fuse to big, on top of that the spacing for my drivers staions are to far apart, so now I guess I need some type of sturdy oblong material to hook every thing up to perhaps then connect to the table. Not really my cup of tea and I'm to frustrated at this point in time to finish. Although I have an idea what to do.

Post up SJ... There's a ton of guys who've been there done that. nd

No sjracer isn't my username on ebay.

Give a shout to SwamperGene, He can wire a track blindfolded. He will help you

It isn't so much the track wiring as it's the mistake at the driver stations. The project box covers that they reccomend on the hoslotcarracing website are only about 6" long, my nsitake occurrend about the 7 1/4" mark so I would need some type of thick plastic cover , maybe plexiglass but it's hard to cut, at least 8" long preferrably 9"( 3or 4" wide) long to cover up my mistake and use for driver station covers.

Maybe you could use 1/8" or 1/4" hardboard (aka Masonite) instead of those plastic covers? It's easy to cut and drill if you have a saw, or get the people at the home improvement store to cut it for you.

Another option may be a plumbing and electrical supply store. They probably have larger plastic covers for other applications. Also, take a look at McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/) and search for the following:

"CPVC Plates" : Look at the "cut to length" options. You can specifiy thickness, width, and length of this plastic material.
"HDPE Plates" : " "
"PVC Plates" : " "

There are a lot of different plates and covers to be had on that site if you search around a bit.

If you can post a picture I'm sure we can come up with some suitable workarounds so you can wrap it up and get down to some racing.

Thanks for the link, but they won't cut it in 9" sections and are charging $7 s/h. I was wondering if Home Depot or Lowes would have anything along those lines?

sj,
What did you cut your holes through that you need to cover up? Is it safe to assume that some wood filler and some paint wouldn't fix it up?

I was attempting to cut a whole for a fuse holder and made it to bib was considering cutting a piece pf aluminum and sticking the fuse holer it in but I wanted a more professional look for my driver's station.

How 'bout if you mount them in a separate plate then fasten that plate from behind the oversized holes (could make the holes bigger if you had to). You'd have recessed fuse holders then, which might look good.

If you can, pics would go a long way in this discussion.

Actually Swamper, I tried to recess from the inside out, that's right the .... I am I got underneath the table and got out my grill with the wood bit and attempted to go through to seperate pieces of wood the first beeing the frame the second (the retaining wall ?) I only wanted to go half way through but, well how did Gomer Pyle say it, " Suprise, Suprise!"

sj.....okay, I'm guessing that you drilled through.....wood(???) If so, why not just fill the holes with wood filler and start over after the filler dries and hardens?

Rudy, I decided order the plastic face plates today from the link above. However, if your available I'd love to have you check it out when the plates arrive , if possible I didn't realize you were local. I'm 3 miles from Cowtown. As I stated earlier, frustration has set in and I'd really appreciate your input Rudy.
I've bought my Galinko power supply over two months ago. However, I had to walk away from my project once I made such a big mistake..

I have the face plates from Greg Braun. They are also 6 inches wide. I'll try to take some pics and post them up later when I get home from work.

As promised, here is what the driver's station face plates from Greg Braun look like. They are white lexan with the holes for attachment screws, controller connections and fuse already drilled out. I used the face plates as the template for drilling the holes though my sideboards and frame.

As you can also see, I also used GB's jacks and banana plugs for the controller connections. I did the lettering by printing the text onto Avery clear return address lables with my pc and printer, trimmed by hand with scissors.

Oh, and you can't really see it, but on the left hand side is where you will find some of the screws that I used to attach the sideboards to the framework. They are countersunk and the holes were filled with wood filler. Once dried, I sanded the areas smooth and then primed and painted the sideboards. That work was all done before I installed the driver stations.

Hope this helps.

Just for future reference, for other folks building drivers stations, always put the white and red connections on the ends and black in the middle. If red and white ever come together, say a boot slips off an alligator clip or a controller heat sink rubs up against exposed style hookups - it shorts out the power supply. I personally experienced the heat sink induced short recently at a track with exposed hookups and fortunately it only blew a fuse and left a small scar on my heat sink. Not so much as issue with a captive hookup system, but just pointing out that the layout of drivers stations is not arbitrary, there's actually a reason behind the standard White-Black-Red layout.

Just for future reference, for other folks building drivers stations, always put the white and red connections on the ends and black in the middle. If red and white ever come together, say a boot slips off an alligator clip or a controller heat sink rubs up against exposed style hookups - it shorts out the power supply. I personally experienced the heat sink induced short recently at a track with exposed hookups and fortunately it only blew a fuse and left a small scar on my heat sink. Not so much as issue with a captive hookup system, but just pointing out that the layout of drivers stations is not arbitrary, there's actually a reason behind the standard White-Black-Red layout.
What's scary is there are commercial shops out there with the white and red posts side-by-side, running on 18v battery power. :eek:

I'm no wizz when it comes to electricity, so that pretty much explains why I followed GB's instructions that came with my driver's stations. However, the point AFXToo and Scott made did make me go back and re-read them. Any thoughts on why they would have stated to install them the way I have? Not looking to get GB or anyone else flamed, but I'm just curious if there are any good reasons at all.

Just got the polythylene from Mc Masters yesterday, I was wondering if anybody could post a remplate for a 6" driver's station.