I have the Triton 2 so I should be set. The numbers look like this (for the medusa 36x60)

2000 k/v

14.8 = 29600 RPM and 1287 Watts (1.73 HP)
18.5 = 37000 RPM and 1609 Watts (2.16 HP)

Maybe 5s with their 1600 K/V motor???

18.5 = 29600 RPM and 1443 Watts (1.93 HP) Much lower amp draw would make the ESC life a lot easier to boot!

Hmmmm.....

I am thinking Medina too....Web, Miller, Frank, Bill S. and Ron are all planning on going.

Chris

NEU motors on 5s

1.5Y 34225 RPM 1480 Watts (1.98 HP)
3D 31450 RPM 1295 Watts (1.74 HP)

More food for thought.... :)

Chris

They are all good, with the price of the 5s Zippy's I would go that way. I drove a 36 60 2000kv and it felt like my Neu. I don't really know about life span or serviceability. I do know with the Neu that I am running for two years with no issues.

You are a good driver so do not short yourself on power. I have noticed that I am looking for more power on some tracks with my 4s set up. I don't think I will ever need more than the 5s 2000kv set up though.

the Neu 1.5y that you listed will run well on 4s too.

They are all good, with the price of the 5s Zippy's I would go that way. I drove a 36 60 2000kv and it felt like my Neu. I don't really know about life span or serviceability. I do know with the Neu that I am running for two years with no issues.

You are a good driver so do not short yourself on power. I have noticed that I am looking for more power on some tracks with my 4s set up. I don't think I will ever need more than the 5s 2000kv set up though.

I am plannning on 5s for sure. Motors I am little up in the the air though. I think the NEU motor might be the best in the long run but at about twice the price I might take a shot with the medusa motor. I agree I can't see needing more than 5s 2000kv for racing.

Chris

Well....

After further price comparison it looks like this

Medusa 36x60 v2 Motor $115
Medusa Heatsink $76
Total $191 + shipping

NEU 15xx finned $219 + shipping

Seems the price point isn't as good as I thought. Maybe the 1.5y/f is for me...

You can't go wrong with a Neu!!!

ccm ....i think you have the wrong price on the heatsink. here is a link to the ones they offer. 5.99 at the bottom.

http://www.medusaproducts.com/accessories/heatsinks.htm

Just got back from the Chicago Hobby Show.
Tekin had his motor and ESC there. The look good also.
NO release date... but lots of exciting info.
Possibly sensored, or the option of either.
KV ratings in the range we are using.

Question for all, individually......what was the single, most important-to-you reason for making the switch to elec?

Question for all, individually......what was the single, most important-to-you reason for making the switch to elec?

you will find that about half of the guys running 1/8 electric are not nitro guys at all. we just like the durability of the layout and with outdoor tracks becoming more 1/8 built running 1/10 cars on them is no fun.

as for the guys i have talked to that have converted they just like tha fact that they can plug in and go, no tuning, not starting, no messy clean up, much less maintence.

ccm ....i think you have the wrong price on the heatsink. here is a link to the ones they offer. 5.99 at the bottom.

http://www.medusaproducts.com/accessories/heatsinks.htm

Thanks for that! I thought $75 sounded high but I found it somewhere on their site....unless I was on the combo page and did not realize it. Anyway, now Medusa is back on the list!

Chris

I converted because of cost and ease of use. My two young daughters race and it is so much easier to just plug and play when you are maintaining two other cars. I have the same motor in my car for two years with no maintenance, the drive train in my car lasts longer than with the nitro and it is clean. I finally sold my nitro eight and am all electric now.

Question for all, individually......what was the single, most important-to-you reason for making the switch to elec?

I personally didn't make a "Switch" to elelctric. I have always been an electric guy and to be able to run a quality vehicle like an electrice 1/8th scale was an exciting opportunity.
To introduce electric power to these great vehicles is awesome and way too late. BUT it is not until recently that the motor and battery technology has progressed to the point where it is practicle. ESC's are just starting to catch up.. but that should not stop anyone. The ESC's we are currently using get the job done.. ESC manufactures recognize the need to improve the products we currently use and are working hard on products dedicated to the application.
The most appealing aspect to me is the opportunity to run these great vehicles indoors. Also being able to run 15 min non stop at full speed with the great batteries we have now. and no pollution. So you can have the speed and excitement of racing 1/8th scale year round in northern climates. These vehicles are as fast if not faster than most 1/8th scale nitro vehicles. The low end torque is what sets them apart. They jump like nothing we have ever had before. The out of the corner acceleration is incredible.
Best of both worlds. And the RC Product Designs kits allow you to switch back and forth, Electric-Nitro if you wanted to.
Hope this helps.
Dan

Thanks for humoring me, fellas.

Nitro is new to me so it's got that "new girlfriend" thing going for it. I like the noise but not the smell. Would be nice to be able to race 1/8 during the winter.

Check out the new ESC from Speed Passion,
http://www.speedpassion.net/product.php?lang=&c=38

Check out the new ESC from Speed Passion,
http://www.speedpassion.net/product.php?lang=&c=38

Only 4s :(

Looks pretty nice other thatn that.

Chris

the Mamba Max is only 3s and i run 5s on mine. I would not be the first to try it out though

For those of you looking to buy a Monster Max, Castle has just released a new firm ware update to fix the BEC problem in the V1 and V2. So there should be no problems with you picking up a V2 from Rc-Monster for $150.

hey guys i just got a 8ight t with the rc prouduts kit on it i have been doing some lookin but i dont know what im lookin for lol but is the new castle monster with that motor combo a good starting point to go any help would be great thanks guys

Perfect combo for 4s That is the same motor I run in mine, mine is just a Neu, the Castle motor is a copy of the Neu.
you will be very pleased with the Monster and the Castle motor. if you are going to run more than 15 min you will need at least a 6000 lipo. at Lances I run a 4s 5000 and a 4s 6000

thanks doug now do you run a steel spur with this setup or does it matter

I run the Kyosho 46 tooth plastic, but if you run a good hardened pinion it does not mater, it will just be a little noisy.

Hi i have some questions about how this works on raceday. I am a long time electric guy and just this year went nitro because the local electric 10th scale class died. so i am now into the 8th scale scene and like it alot. the nitro is alright but im electric at heart and just love the maintence free brushless lipo combo. also the power on demand of electric is the best. i have done some research on this before and stoped because of the batterys not being able to make a long main that is ran in nitro. i have heard of making pit stops to change the battery but dont know if it is actually done or not. and if it is practicle to do or not. when you race are you guys changing a batt. for the longer mains like the 30 min A main. i know this would be awesome but it is no good to me if i cant race in the a main with it without dumping. i know there are huge batterys out there that can make the run time but are too big to fit the cars right. just got the new car action magazine and read the artice on the new losi conversion and looks awesome. very clean layout and got a great review. any info on the raceday stuff would be greatly appreciated and sorry for the long post.

i dont know where you are located but just be patient, as time goes on you will have electric buggies to race against. i say first find out if your local track will allow you to run in the nitro class. if so go ahead and convert, after guys see yours run you will start to see interest and then some will start to convert as well.
with the normal set up most are using, 5000 mah 4 s lipos you can safely go about 15 minutes. at tracks where people are already running an actual electric class they run up to 15 min mains max.
if your local track runs 30 min mains i say just focus on making your buggy reliable for a 15 minute run, run for 15 minutes and be done. if you try to make it run 30 minutes you will run into pack swap problems and problems keeping the motor / esc cool enough. all that will do is give guys excuses to not do it. almost everyone that converts realizes that 15 minutes is plenty and the long mains thinking goes away.

Check out the new ESC from Speed Passion,
http://www.speedpassion.net/product.php?lang=&c=38

That looks sweet. I did not see a price? I ended up smoking my 1900kv 74mm kd,Wow was it fast till the pinnion came loose and deep fryed the motor(fastest ,most powerful motor in the world for 32 bucks). I Just ordered the 1800kv 60mm madusa. Will run 4s. Hope its enough? I,ll be at the first washtenaw points series race on the 22nd. Any1 know what tires work there 1/8 and1/10 4wd
Thanks

That looks sweet. I did not see a price? I ended up smoking my 1900kv 74mm kd,Wow was it fast till the pinnion came loose and deep fryed the motor(fastest ,most powerful motor in the world for 32 bucks). I Just ordered the 1800kv 60mm madusa. Will run 4s. Hope its enough? I,ll be at the first washtenaw points series race on the 22nd. Any1 know what tires work there 1/8 and1/10 4wd
Thanks

last year I ran hole shots on 4wd and crime fighters on 1/8th

Fall Meeting of the ROAR Executive Committee
November 9, 2008
Ontario, California

New Classes implemented:
• 8th Electric off road
• Vintage Trans Am
• World GT
http://www.roarracing.com/downloads/...ng_Minutes.pdf

I looked at that (actually the link didn't quite work so I poked around on ROAR's site). It didn't seem to say much except that 1/8 electric was recognized as a class. Is there any thought about some sort of equivalency that would let electrics run with nitro? My club let them race together last year as long as the battery was limited to 3S. However, the motor manufacturers are designing most of the 1/8 stuff to run with at least 4S.

It would be great if enough folks built 1/8 electric stuff to make their own class everywhere, but that may not happen with the economy the way it is.

Has anyone else raced nitro and electric (1/8) together?

With all the electric stuff coming out, I hope local clubs and eventually ROAR figure out some standards.

I've raced my 8ight with electric conversion with nitros. It has a Neu 1512 2.5/d/f running on 4S. It is almost exactly equivalent to the nitros running at the same time. Available traction on dirt limits how much power you can put down. Mostly, it comes down to driving. The better drivers beat me. I almost always made the A-Main but I don't think I ever finished higher than 5th.

I think you are right. Thanks for the info :thumbsup:

I'm building an 8ight-T, just cause I like Truggy's. I've been really happy with Novak in my 1/10 dirt cars, but NEU's seem to be popular for 1/8th. Looks like Castle is teaming up with NEU on some combo's just for this purpose. Novak recommends their 6.5 (3400KV) for my project.

The guy I bought the 8ight-T roller from recommends the Tekno conversion because it retains mechanical braking. I have never used it, so don't think I would miss it. What kind of braking do you use?

I think you are right. Thanks for the info :thumbsup:

I'm building an 8ight-T, just cause I like Truggy's. I've been really happy with Novak in my 1/10 dirt cars, but NEU's seem to be popular for 1/8th. Looks like Castle is teaming up with NEU on some combo's just for this purpose. Novak recommends their 6.5 (3400KV) for my project.

The guy I bought the 8ight-T roller from recommends the Tekno conversion because it retains mechanical braking. I have never used it, so don't think I would miss it. What kind of braking do you use?


Mechanical Breaks are not necessary. Your vehicle handles beautiful with the Electronic breaks of the ESC. Mechanical brakes are just an additional head ache to worry about. These vehicles see so High G forces that I feel uneeded additional electronics just provide the opportunity for more problems.

I think you are right. Thanks for the info :thumbsup:

I'm building an 8ight-T, just cause I like Truggy's. I've been really happy with Novak in my 1/10 dirt cars, but NEU's seem to be popular for 1/8th. Looks like Castle is teaming up with NEU on some combo's just for this purpose. Novak recommends their 6.5 (3400KV) for my project.

The guy I bought the 8ight-T roller from recommends the Tekno conversion because it retains mechanical braking. I have never used it, so don't think I would miss it. What kind of braking do you use?

Mechanical Breaks are not necessary. Your vehicle handles beautiful with the Electronic breaks of the ESC. Mechanical brakes are just an additional head ache to worry about. These vehicles see so High G forces that I feel uneeded additional electronics just provide the opportunity for more problems.

I ran the whole season with electric motor braking, and while it was usable, I never felt that it was quite as effective as I wanted it to be. I was running a Mamba Max speed control and eventually settled on 30% brake. Anything more than that seemed like it just locked up the wheels. While the 30% was more than sufficient to bring the to a full stop car quickly, or slow it down at the end of a long straight, I couldn't just get a "tap" on the brakes to do what I could with a 10th scale car (that is, to get the car to rotate a little bit and start accelerating again). The brake "tap" would start to slow the car down, but it wouldn't start accelerating again as fast as I thought it should. Maybe this was a problem with the speed control, but I had no real way of knowing that. Someone let me try a nitro 8ight-t (I've never owned or driven a Nitro before) and I liked the way the brakes worked.

So the bottom line was, when I saw the 8ight-b Tekno conversions on sale for $120, I bought one. And I got another roller 8ight for $125. I plan to try them back to back and see which one I like better. No matter which one I like better, I figure I'll be able to sell the other conversion for at least $250 and get my money back after I have decided.

BTW, when I said the electric brakes were "more than sufficient" I meant that if I wasn't careful, I could do a reverse wheely at the end of the straight with the 30% braking. It was the transient brake response I am used to in the 1/10th electrics that was missing. Having driven the nitro car, I am still amazed that servo brakes can be as responsive as they are. It seemed to me that a servo with even a .08 transit time couldn't beat volts moving at the speed of light. But the servo brakes were nice and as fast as my trigger finger. Admittedly the servo brakes add mechanical and electric complexity, but if my steering servo can survive the G forces, I figure the brake servo can too.

Thanks for the input. As much as this stuff costs, it helps to get the benefit of other folks' experience. The Tekno kit does give you the option of bypassing mechanical braking, so I guess you couldn't really lose (except the extra bucks up front). It'll be a while before I've got the funds to finish the project, so I'll think on it some more :hat:

Going to al,s next sat jan10 to race some 1/8 electric.Wanted to see if there was any interest? Heard the new track layout is awesome.It,s a off weekend for washtenaw,So maybe some of you guys can come check it out.Be nice to have a class of them.

Going to al,s next sat jan10 to race some 1/8 electric.Wanted to see if there was any interest? Heard the new track layout is awesome.It,s a off weekend for washtenaw,So maybe some of you guys can come check it out.Be nice to have a class of them.

2 heats of Electric 1/8th scale at Washtenaw on Saturday. Great Racing with 179 entries.

2 heats of Electric 1/8th scale at Washtenaw on Saturday. Great Racing with 179 entries.


Ya,sounds fun. Could not be on that side of state for that 1. Wife has a party over there this weekend so I,m gonna try getting some racing in over at Al,s though. Couple buddies had to get 1/8 electrics after seing mine. So we will for sure be making the trip to your track for your next event.

I think I did pretty good this week. i bought a eight rolloer from one of the top local drivers (lots eights for sale now because of 2.0) I sold my last nitro motor for enough to buy a E-version kit & E-body. :woohoo:

I got my conversion in & I see this thing is made in Taiwan. Sure glad I bought American. LOL

I see you kept the paint scheme alive:thumbsup: Here she was in her nitro days(i dont miss that!) fresh out of the basement! http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/thumbs/8ight001.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/32527)

I see you kept the paint scheme alive:thumbsup: Here she was in her nitro days(i dont miss that!) fresh out of the basement! http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/thumbs/8ight001.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/32527)

Nice paint???

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/dlightcap0101/050408_20521.jpg

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/dlightcap0101/DSC02897.jpg

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/dlightcap0101/RCCars006.jpg

Congrats Doug!!!
A familiar sight since you went brushless!!!!

Hey Doug, Kevin here. I am getting close to purchasing my brushless system for my 8th scale. I was thinking about the 6.5 HV Novak system but some things I have been hearing might be making me reconsider. I wanted the smoothness of the sensored system but I am hearing that it may be "under powered". If that is the case what are your thoughts on the Castle Mamba 2650 system. One of the things I hated about my earlier attempt at Electric 8th scale was the low speed cogging and hesitation from dead stops. Have these new systems improved to the point that these symptoms have been minimized?

Thanks for your thoughts, I will probably have more questions.

Also glad to see you are getting good use from the cars!

When I first got my Neu 1512 2.5D for a buggy I still had a different novak 6.5 powered buggy. I took both to the track one day to do some tests. A buddy was there and had already ordered an RC8 and a Novak conversion for it (but the HV pro wasn't out yet so he hadn't ordered that). He saw the two buggies run, one Novak and one Neu and immediately changed his mine and bought a Neu. The Novak is fast enough to race on our small track, but that side-by-side test showed the Neu was both faster and more efficient.

I ran that Neu all year with a Mamba Max upgraded to 1.17 software. If I tried to creep along, it might cog a little bit, but in any relaistic race (or practice) situation, you could not tell it was sensorless. Anywhere from half throttle on up gave instantaneous response.

Hey Doug, Kevin here. I am getting close to purchasing my brushless system for my 8th scale. I was thinking about the 6.5 HV Novak system but some things I have been hearing might be making me reconsider. I wanted the smoothness of the sensored system but I am hearing that it may be "under powered". If that is the case what are your thoughts on the Castle Mamba 2650 system. One of the things I hated about my earlier attempt at Electric 8th scale was the low speed cogging and hesitation from dead stops. Have these new systems improved to the point that these symptoms have been minimized?

Thanks for your thoughts, I will probably have more questions.

Also glad to see you are getting good use from the cars!

Slightly under powered but still competitive and many still have issues with overheating. It is better now.. but still.... Check out the NOVAK discussion on rctech.net in the Off Road section also for more info.
The 2650 is a great choice. Great balance of power and control. Close to the NEU 1512 2D/F
The new Castle Monster eliminates all the cogging issues. The Tekin is coming out soon also.
Hope this helps.
Dan
Dan

Awesome guys, thanks. I really only want to buy this stuff once this time, and get it as close to "right" as I can. I definitely do not want to be messing around with mounting extra fans if I don't have to so i am thinking to stay away from the Novak system then.

Question about the MMM Combo motors, they are made by NEU, are these motors the same quality as the motors bought directly from NEU and are they as efficient. If one were to just want to buy the MMM ESC then what motor is close in specs to the 2650 in the Combo?

This gear will be installed in an RC8 if that matters at all.

Thanks again.

Might want to look at the Losi ESC/motor.

I personally would go with the MMM 2650 Kv combo. The ESC is vary user friendly to set up and use. and for the price its a good deal. Helped a friend setup his losi ESC and its vary frustrating with trying to get the program on the computer. and a another friend broke his after a bad landing because the Losi ESC is larger in size and sticks out farther than the MMM, and the plastic case crack and damaged the internals, had to send back. I could go on But I'll stop here LOL...

Kevin,
Get the combo. You can run either one, the 2200 or the 2650. I have seen them run and looked over the motor very closley. I might be running a Castle 2650kv with my V1 Monster this summer if not I still have my Neu 1512/2.5d (2050kv).
There is NO cogging any more.
Doug

I believe we haven't seen the last of the updates for the 1/8 ESC & Motor combos from different companies. It might be 6 months from now before the get the ESC's tuned in to handle the horsepower. I recently had to update both the (firmware & the software) for both the Mamba & Losi Combo's - YES, pain in the but, even with customer service help but it is the latest and should be updated to keep everything running cool/r.

Just FYI, looks like we'll have (8) electric eights running this Wednesday night at BFG so anyone interested in running yours indoor - check it out. First class you run is $16.00, second class is only $5.00 more some bring the 1/10 truck or 2wd or 4wd buggy out also.

Peace all,
HEFFAE