Does any one have any experience with this system, Traxxas Velineon Brushless System #3350 VXL ESC Motor?

I'm thinking of buying one for my daughter's Pede. It has a Novak 5800SS in it right now. It's the older version though, that's why I'm thinking of the Traxxas one. Is it as fast and as durable as the Novak system?

There is another option you may want to consider if you like the feel of the Novak sensored products. Novak offers its replacement option program.

You can return your SS5800 items and exchange them for remanufactured versions of the highly upgraded Novak XBR esc and the SS 10.5 Pro motor----both with a new 120 day warranty.

Novak's XBR Brushless Controller (http://www.teamnovak.com/products/esc/xbr/index.html)

Novak's SS10.5 Pro motor (http://www.teamnovak.com/products/brushless/sspro_motors/index.html)

Links to the program explanations are on this Customer Service page:

Novak Customer Assistance (http://www.teamnovak.com/cs/index.html)

I onw a velineon system and race it in dirt oval edm class. With a good lipo it has an insane amount of power but is easily controlled with the trigger. You can't change any settings other than 50% training mode. Ver smooth power curve. I have mamba max, velineon, and 2 gtb novak. When you give the other 2 quarter throttle, they go! But the traxass give yo 1/4 of the power, not full power to 1/4 rpm. Others will say I have to make adjustments to my radio to compensate, but don't need to with the velineon. ALL ARE GOOD UNITS. With that said, I would trade a novak gtb 5.5 for a good traxass unit.

I have one on my Evader and love it!!!!

i also run one on my evader st pro and my bandit. LRP on my other cars. Good motor, although the onnly way to tune it is to basically change pinion gears. Just remember to turn the high voltage regulator off if you are going to run NiMh batteries or the motor will be extremely sluggish.

I have one in my Evader and I keep smoking the Diff. How are you adjusting for the power?

Flanker, using the same evader with the Velineon system, a guy I race with had the very same problem!!!! He switched to a B4 with the velineon and has not had a problem since!!!!! Something to think about,,,,, The Velineon system, have seen it raced in 1/10th scale electric buggie off road,,,,,,,,,this thing is STRONG,,, and for 150 bucks it's priced right for me!!

I have one in my Evader and I keep smoking the Diff. How are you adjusting for the power?utilize the slipper #1,#2 put some carbide diff balls in the diff, #3 when you rebuild the diff use associated stealth diff lube and black grease on the thrust bearing. But mainly use that slipper! if you have the slipper locked up you will just keep smoking diffs no matter what.

I put some carbide's in a new diff last night and they work great (on the street). I'll see if I can make it work on the track.

I have one in my Evader and I keep smoking the Diff. How are you adjusting for the power?

The Duratrax diff gear is poor plastic. Go to a B2 diff gear. It is better plastic and last better. See the post below this one about Evader St and brushless. I posted the needed parts. You can run a stock diff geat, but the diff needs to be adjusted very well. I usually keep it completely tight. If the diff is too loose you will melt it.

I have one in my Evader and I keep smoking the Diff. How are you adjusting for the power?

you need to set the slipper just right. If your slipper is too tight, you will be more prone to damage the diff. Back out the slipper till you get a little but of play before it starts pulling the car forward. I have run this set-up through 10+ races and have yet to damage the diff. Another thing to check, which could be easily overlooked, is the plastic diff cover. Depending on the pinion gear you are using it could be binding with your diff cover. To solve this drill a hole just large enough to allow the motor arm(whatever is exposed past your pinion gear) to stick out. Then put some grease around the hole to keep as much dirt out as possible. The problem with the evader is the diff is geared towards the orion brushed motors from the factory and require very minimal if any adjustments. They are usually RTR immediatly. Back out on the slipper and let me know what happens. If that doesnt work, I have a few other tricks to limit the chance to smoke diffs. Once set right, the velineon is an absolute perfect match powerwise for the evader. With a 4300 MaH batt. the motor provides excellent punch for a race setup. Sorry how long winded this was. Couldnt think of any other way to put it.

Ok, I made some adjustments and they work great! I have run my evader on the street and in the dirt, gone through several 4200 (7) cells and still on the same differential. This is what I did:

Carbide diff balls and HPI grease in the stock differential gear (I have the B2 gear on stand-by). I tightened the spring until I couldn’t turn the wrench anymore, and then gave it 1/8th of a back turn. I’m also using the aluminum idler gear.

To set the slipper I used the directions some one posted (sorry I can’t remember who to give the credit to). Grab the rear wheels and let the truck hang, I had my wife slowly pull on the throttle until the truck lifted parallel with the floor before it started slipping. I had to tighten it a few times and repeat the test to get it to hold level. I loosened mine a tad to be safe. Now if I’m not careful it will turn turtle when it launches on the pavement. I can’t wait to get some S3 LiPo’s.

Thanks to all who have helped with their suggestions. It was getting VERY frustrating.