Like a few other people i am having problems with the seam around he bay window ,no matter what i do it still shows through the paint job. My window part didnt fit flush to start with i had to sand away a lot of plastic above the top seam. Anyway i have got it the best i can. I come accross this web site, Kyle Clarks Mobius seaview gallery and he has done a great job on his model , (great seabed base) but the most obvious thing you notice is the bay window doesnt look as though it has been putied at all . I cant make my mind up whether this is an alltogether bad thing or not. I scoured the net for photos of finished Mobius seaview models and found .quite a few have this problem, why didnt moebius have the window allready molded in place.This (seams to distract from an otherwise exellent model) excuse the pun. Kidcury

Seam filling superglue, baking soda spinkled around it, sand. Putty filler (tube bondo) sand. After sanding, then a coat of seam filling grey primer. Sand and another coat of primer. Of couse you'll have 15 different answers by this time tomorrow, but try my suggestion and it will work.

The Admiral's advice is excellent. The only thing I'd add is the first rule of model making: before you build your model make sure you wash all the parts well. Parts of mine, esp the larger parts, have a mold release on them that repels just about everything including tape, putty, and super-glue, and eventually that list will include primer. Even better, after washing, lightly sand the parts with 200 grit at their joins or where you're filling. Everything seems to stick at first, but any stressing of the parts will loosen the adhesives. Remember, super-glues weren't made for plastic and some don't work as well as others. Slow Zap is one of the best for filling. Hit it with some accelerator or soda but don't let the stuff cure for too long. At first it's about the same density as plastic but after 24 hours it's much harder and it's very difficult to sand it out evenly with the surrounding styrene.

Prime and putty, then prime and putty again and again until the primer doesn't show any pits or unevenness. The biggest problem with most of the Seaviews I've seen pictured is that the makers top coated too soon. Let the putty shrink and cure for several days or even a week and check it again before you topcoat. Some putties, esp things like Squadron, never seem to cure properly. Go with an automotive putty as the Admiral suggests.

Honestly, thats what putty is for. I puttied and sanded out the seam two or three times.

It could have been engineered better... I would have cast the windows into each side of the hull myself, and had either two sets of glass with or without frames, or seperate frames to glue around the glass if you wanted that version.

But in the end it was no biggie.

Honestly, thats what putty is for. I puttied and sanded out the seam two or three times.

It could have been engineered better... I would have cast the windows into each side of the hull myself, and had either two sets of glass with or without frames, or seperate frames to glue around the glass if you wanted that version.

But in the end it was no biggie.

If the seam shows it's either got too much or too little putty. When I put together my Jupiter 2, I glued the top cover to the hull and used bondo. If I can hide that seam you can hide yours easily.

I finally got mine pretty darned smooth. I used Zap-a-gap initially with CA Kicker, twice. Then I've followed up at least 3 times with white putty and woked it down from 600 to 320, and it looks pretty nice. If I tilit it just right though, I can still find some minor eveidence of the seam. It's still in grey primer though, so it may hide more once I get it airbrushed up!

I finally got mine pretty darned smooth. I used Zap-a-gap initially with CA Kicker, twice. Then I've followed up at least 3 times with white putty and woked it down from 600 to 320, and it looks pretty nice. If I tilit it just right though, I can still find some minor eveidence of the seam. It's still in grey primer though, so it may hide more once I get it airbrushed up!

Use the vehicle body bondo, (BONDO at NAPA), but spread it thin and about a 1/2 inch in all directions. What you're doing is feathering the bondo in to match. Get a filler type primer which is slightly thicker. Sand and repeat.

I used 2-part epoxy putty to fill and then a flex-i-file to sand. A couple of rounds of primer/sand/putty and it's good to go. This is "model assembly 101, no?" :hat: