Okay, let me get this straight. A Gjet is a SuperG+ with the traction magnets replaced by weights, right? If that is the case, then I have to ask, couldn't you do that to other chassis? Has anyone tried running the Gjet concept with a ....
Tyco HP7
Tyco 440x2
AFX Turbo
Marchon
Ideal
Matchbox
Micro Scalectrix
LifeLike T chassis
Tyco HP2
Tyco Pro

I mean, if you had no restrictions on the weight, and ran a stock arm, would that even the field between these cars? Would you need to change the gear ratios? Interesting, I always like mixing brands and seeing what happens.

Rich

www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars

Okay, let me get this straight. A Gjet is a SuperG+ with the traction magnets replaced by weights, right?
www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars

Nope.... A G-jet is essentially a Super G+ (uses the G3 chassis), but they have replaced the arm with a 9 ohm arm, the traction magnets are replaced with weights and they are run at 12 ohms vs. 18, so it's more than just the weights.

There is a guy over on POS that the topic of running the different non magnet chassis to death, here's a link:

http://www.planetofspeed.net/BBS/viewtopic.php?t=4250

There is a Wizzard version and a Slottech version, and some guy has come out with a Tyco-Jet as well. Everything I have seen still points to the G-Jet being the best, and I believe it to be the combination of the 9 ohm motor and the reduced voltage.

Let the arguments begin! ;)

A G-Jet is a G3 with weights added front and rear. It has a 9-ohm arm and is recommended for 12V. A roller (without body) is listed at $54.95. I don't think the front weight is adaptable to a Super G+.

The P-Jet is a Slottech Panther using the same weight concept but with a 6-ohm arm.

A Thunderstorm is a Wizzard Storm, again weights front and rear and also a 6-ohm arm. Last I know wiz said they are for 18V, but most guys seem to crank it down.

Various incarnations have been done to the Tyco x2 chassis and dubbed the Tyco-Jet.

With many "set" type cars, ie Tomy/Tyco, people with reed may experience lap counting problems.

I've tried G-Jets and personally, I find the feel similar to a well tuned MT/XT car.

Interesting info. What if it wasn't confined to just late model chassis?
What if you used a stock arm and didn't crank the voltage down?
What if you used a higher ohm controller?

What if it wasn't confined to just late model chassis?

That'd be relative to parts availability. The "big three" are installing this stuff on their own current or recent unmodified chassis, so it's very cost effective for them. It's still a very small market though, and I don't think you'll see anyone mass producing weight kits for all kinds of chassis, the demand just isn't there.

What if you used a stock arm and didn't crank the voltage down?

At least with the G-Jet, I know the cars are very squirely (sp?). In fact, I know of at least one shop that's used G-Jets on 18V as a tool to sell old-style G3 mags. :lol:

Take a good running Tyco and throw some snug-fitting lead fishing weights in the mag pockets, and try it out.

What if you used a higher ohm controller?

A little help, but not to the extent you'd see with a pancake car. The motor mags are still providing some downforce which will likely vary as the arm is energized.

Squirrely? A G-Jet? Really? Never had problems with them being small-rodenty at all, in fact, it's my most favorite class to drive, bar none.

And yes, I certainly could see how running them at 18 volts could cause frustration and the desire to put traction mags on them, which is why you probably see the folks with the Wizz cars dialing down the voltage against the manufacturers recommendations...

I’d put a 9 ohm G-Jet armature in my Life Like M chassis that has no traction magnets and with no weights.

If I could find someone who would let me race it against their G-Jet.
__________________

http://www.sloganizer.net/en/style8,SuperFist.png

Wonder why nobody will let you run? :)

An Mcar with no magnets will not run at all.The motor magnets are traction magnets
and unfair in that class.The G-jet is a class designed for more realistic speeds and
looks.Unless another brand has the same ohm arm,weight and exactly the same
down force it would not be fair.On 12 volts,X2s,M-cars,and Tomys could be equaled
out by tire hights,SWMSRA is going to attempt this for beginners so they don't have to
spend the 50 bucks right away for a G-jet.The ultimate cure is to run 12 volt style cars as an Iroc style race with lane colored cars,then the brand used is irellevent.

Squirrely? A G-Jet? Really? Never had problems with them being small-rodenty at all,

I meant at higher voltages (response to "didn't crank the voltage down"). :)

How about a restricted open class? I mean, no weight restrictions, no tire sizes, and no gear restrictions. Power the track with at least 18v, so EVERYONE has to detune to get a good handling car. I just think it would be cool to see a SuperG+ being blown off by a CurveHugger! I'm going to try this. I'll lobby our club and see what happens. I'm sure it will take a while for everything to shake out. The bummer would be to go six months trying everything to find out the SuperG+ is the best after all.

Rich

www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars

Sounds like our old Box stock class,The G will rule.And people will not
detune them.We had some badass stockers.We allow the G3 box stock
roller in box stock now.They are faster yet.It is hard to equalize brands
at any voltage,but not impossible.

The other evening a friend came over for some racing. One thing we did was run his Thunderstorm against my G-Jets. I didn't think the Thunderstorm was near the car the G-Jet is. At 12 volts I easily passed him down the straight. And the car handles the infield better.

62562

Two-lane Bowman road course

62559

Tyco Pro "Pro-Jet"

62560

Riggen "R-Jet"

62561

Riggen "R-Jet"

This is a great thread...
And it makes me wonder how the Tomy Turbo I made with the traction magnet removed and weight added would fare against some of the other chassis... (Umm, K-Jet? :p :lol:)

Scott

Try an IROC race with a different brand in each lane,everyone gets
to drive all the cars.The best driver will win.

Try an IROC race with a different brand in each lane,everyone gets
to drive all the cars.The best driver will win.

I like this idea...
That way no matter how you build your car, during the race the other drivers are going to race it against you!!
After all, it is all about the racing...

Scott

Try an IROC race with a different brand in each lane,everyone gets
to drive all the cars.The best driver will win.

No, the best driver will get taken out from 2 lanes over, his controller will come unplugged, a pickup shoe will hang up, and a marshall will take him out with his thumb. Happens to me all the time! :p

No, the best driver will get taken out from 2 lanes over, his controller will come unplugged, a pickup shoe will hang up, and a marshall will take him out with his thumb. Happens to me all the time! :p


So what your saying is your real name is Robbie Gordon? lol


Dave

No, the best driver will get taken out from 2 lanes over, his controller will come unplugged, a pickup shoe will hang up, and a marshall will take him out with his thumb. Happens to me all the time! :p

I have NEVER raced with you... :lol:

(Although I think that I have done all of the above over the years...:freak:)

Scott

Originally Posted by oldraceral
No, the best driver will get taken out from 2 lanes over, his controller will come unplugged, a pickup shoe will hang up, and a marshall will take him out with his thumb. Happens to me all the time!

Well then maybe the worste marshall will win.;)