With Scalectric/Carrera/FLy being the 3 cars used for about 90% of the races, whats the best ohm controller to use. (I like an easier to keep on the track car with more magnets are opposed to the rockets)

thanks, any help would be great.

To me, it depends on the track. For something technical and tight with a few decent straight-aways, keep the ohm's a bit high - 45 ohm maybe 60 ohm at most. For something more open with little technical, you could probably go lower to like 25 ohm - anything lower than that is purely drag racing.

As for brand, its totally up to you on what is most comfortable. Prof. Motor is always a good choice, but with 1/32 you now have Slot.it who produced a digital controller that is similar in features and what not to Third Eye and other high end controllers, but prices out around the $100 range. Parma is ok, but to me their steps are spreadout too far.

Hope that helps you out a bit.

PD2:thumbsup:

The new wiperless controller from Lucky Bob's is the
hot setup for HO. If it will drive unlimiteds to T-jets,
it should drive any 1/32 style car perfectly.Infinite
linearity,no steps.300 bucks,but you only need one
controller.

The new wiperless controller from Lucky Bob's is the
hot setup for HO. If it will drive unlimiteds to T-jets,
it should drive any 1/32 style car perfectly.Infinite
linearity,no steps.300 bucks,but you only need one
controller.

Wiperless, huh? Interesting. Is there a link to it any where or do you have to physically go to Lucky Bob's to see it?

PD2:thumbsup:

http://www.lucky-bobs-slot-cars.com/LUCKYBOBSHOCONTROLLER.html

I'd be curious to hear what people who purchased them think.

It is a version of John Mullens hand control,I have had
mine for about 3 years of heavy use.It is the best hand
control I have ever had.I have had 3 Ruddocks,an Omni,
and a Difalco.

Those are some seriously expensive controllers - definitely something that I rarely see at the 1/32 track. Most expensive ones we have been seeing are the Slot.it controllers, but even those are under $200. Thanks for posting a link tjettim - never saw those before. To me, if they are completely adjustable in terms of ohms from low ohms to high ohms, then why would you be looking for anything else even if it is 1/32 racing?

PD2:thumbsup:

Technology is always improving,but lately the handcontrol
improvements have been very small.When Bruce Theisen
came out with the first wiperless a few years ago I was
sold on the design.Other people have made them more
available but the basic design is the same.You owe yourself
to at least try one.It's like fuel injection VS carburators.
Yes,a big block chevy will run good with a 850 double pump
holly,but modern fuel injection is much more versatile and
efficient.

You don't need to spend $300 just so you can control your slot cars!
For 1/32 scale racing at home what you really need is a new power supply and some Parma controllers. For home racing it is hard to beat Parma Economy controllers for around $25, especially now that they have the plastic triggers that are much more comfortable than the old metal ones. The real issue with control is not the controller but the power supply, typically the voltage is too high and the amperage too low with most that come in sets. A basic 12 volt power supply with at least two amps and two Parma Econo controllers should be less than $80. The 25, 35 and 45 Ohm controllers will all work well with the cars and new power supply, of course a power supply that has adjustable voltage is around $100 but it will provide wonderful control. For more detail there's an excellent explaination on HomeRacingWorld dot com.

You don't need to spend $300 just so you can control your slot cars!

You are 100% correct, you certainly don't. I could just use 2 wires and touch them together and just the right time to get a car around the track as well. ;)

But seriously, it is nice to have the option, and if you aren't as quick on the trigger as some of the younger folks may be, the controllers with the bells and whistles become a lot more helpful.

It surprises me how many people spend time and money on
making their cars better then drive them with a Flintstone controller.
How much is a couple tenths of a second worth to you? Second
or third place vs first place?

For 1/32 cars, (http://www.wirelessroutershop.com) I like to use something around 25 ohm, (http://www.racingviews.com) and sometimes less depending on the power settings, (http://www.onlyhotwheels.com) track etc.

The Parma ones have always worked well for me :) (http://www.wirelessroutershop.com)

'Depending on power settings' - With a Solid state controller you can
always have the "feel" in the trigger you want.I used to carry a 45,35,
30,25,20,15,10,and a 7 ohm controller with me for all the classes I ran,
and this was before T-jets came back (60-90).Now one controller runs
Tjets,SS,mod,RO,G-jets,stockers,neomods,and unlimiteds.Don't knock them
untill you try one.I have not seen anyone go back yet.

Throttle control is the BIG probelm with the slot car hobby. It is sad that most slot car enthusiasts have NOT experienced acceptable throttle control.

I have compared throttle control of the different brands of 1/32 scale cars with 4, 15, 25, 35, 45 and 60 ohm controllers. It was really surprising to see that the abiltiy to have good throttle control with one controller is possible. The 25, 35 and 45 ohm controllers worked well with cars I tested.

Most people focus on "improving" their car and/or the controller but the big factor that most people ignore is the power supply. For my four lane home track I bought a Professor Motor power supply with adjustable voltage and four Parma 35 Ohm controllers all for a little over $200. The control is fantastic! I did not use electronic controllers for a number of reasons the firt being expense and the Parma controllers are very durable, also many people have had issues using electronic controllers when the voltage is set under 13 volts (many do this with 1/32 cars on a home track - I do with novice racers of all ages).

also many people have had issues using electronic controllers when the voltage is set under 13 volts (many do this with 1/32 cars on a home track - I do with novice racers of all ages).

None of the group I run with have ever had trouble with any of the controllers we use running at 12 volts (standard G-Jet voltage). This includes Ruddock, DiFalco, Medanic, 3rd Eye, you name it, we've run it with zero issues. This would include the 30 or so in our local HOPAC group and up to 60 or so for the G3 Championships folks.

My little boy runs mine at sometimes 9 or 10 volts just so I can keep him on the track, gotta love a variable power supply. :)

http://www.homeracingworld.com/throttlecontrol.htm

I and others have experienced control issues with some electronic controllers when run under 12 volts. I know this is NOT an issue with the "Platinum" Professor Motor controllers and it sounds like you have good experience with the other brands you mention, this is good info.

For fun home racing we have avoided the "controller wars" by having the track that the race is hosted at supply the controllers. After intense initial resistance this has worked extremely well for everyone. A side benefit is it made people focus more on their driving skill than their equipment.