Thought I'd start a new thread on this, culling all that I've been able to find in other threads. I'm also editing this Post #1 constantly to summarize any new information, including what follows in this thread. So, let me see if I've got this straight:

Movie Seaviews
Topside: dark grey. FS 36300 is perfect, a close mix would be 50% light ghost grey FS36375 and 50% FS 36320
Bottom: an extremely pale grey that looks white compared to anything else, maybe a mix of JA Army grey FS35630 and Camo grey FS36622.

First season Seaviews
Topside: Dark grey FS 36118, close match Tamiya AS 10, RAF Ocean Grey
Bottom: light grey green, not quite green enough but close is Tamiya AS 16

Flying Sub 8" Seaview
Topside:
On the season 2 volume 1 dvd special features, the clap board dated 7-18-64 is followed by capture 1 below.
Capture 2 and the rest below (and the captures on post #8, below) are from another sequence, no clap board for a date, but it looks like the same Seaview as above.
The top of the deck is a lighter color than any of the rest of the Seaview.
The captures below show the weathering not to be mottled at all, but running in lines the length of the Seaview below the deck and along the side and bottom keels. The dark panel around the limber holes runs the length of the deck. The nose appears to be the lighter color of the mid section of the hull but it's hard to tell with the waves shadowing and rippling.
(Now pure conjecture on my part) The mottled yecch grey-green-brown surviving nose may have belonged to an 8' miniature that was used for surface shots only. Photos of a very dark 8' miniature on the surface do exist (one posted on #8 below, note the window frames). The photos of the surviving nose of the 8' show something so dark that I just don't believe, despite how intense the lighting, it could look as light as the captures of the 8' miniature used for underwater shots.

Bottom: neutral light grey? The DVD shows the greenish tint that the first season Seaview had, but that may just be an effect of lighting or emulsion. A darker weathering again runs the length of the Seaview, inside the side keels and on either side but not covering the bottom keel. The weathering follows some of the bottom of the manta and dirties the FS hangar cover.

Flying Sub 17'
Topside: at some point in the series, medium grey with darker grey trim on sail hatches, missile hatches and raised deck areas, and the brass limber hole frets. (The DVD shows just a uniformly very dark grey Seaview with no details, unfortunately. Not even worth a screen grab.)

Bottom: neutral light grey

From Jonah and the Whale to David Merriman's restoration, the 17' wore a darker grey walkway (?) on top of the diving planes:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=69368&d=1226586638


Post-restoration 17' (the colors David Merriman used):
Topside: Dupont 131s grey primer
Bottom: white

All subs?:

The underside of the sail planes was bottom color.

The lower half of the outer 2 rudders and an in-line portion of the middle rudder were bottom color.


Flying sub:
FS 13538 satin. Blue Angel yellow FS 13655 is a close on-screen match but not quite orange enough for the miniature. Blue Angel Blue FS 15150 is a perfect match for the details. Note that only the ring around the hatch of the top surface was blue.



The first attach is the TV Guide photo. I can't quite get the color from the magazine to scan properly. And I don't know how it's going to end up on other screens, but just imagine a tinier hint of green on the bottom in the attachment. The other 4 are captures from the DVD.

Flying sub:
FS 13538 satin. Blue Angel yellow FS 13655 is a close on-screen match but not quite orange enough for the miniature. Blue Angel Blue FS 15150 is a perfect match for the details.


Actually, I think those blue Angle colors you listed are as close as we're going to get to an accurate exterior hull paint job on the FS-1. :thumbsup:
Also, I really wouldn't mind having a flying Sub in THIS size...

The un-restored 8-foot Seaview bow that Paul Lubliner has displays the same type of paint treatment that many of the Gerry Anderson models have. That is, it is not one solid color but rather a mottled scheme of many different colors. The result is an overall model color that looks different from different angles and lighting conditions. It is best described as a combination of greens, blues and browns which, taken together, appear mostly green-gray or blue-gray. You will play marry-Heck trying to duplicate it. A look at the photos of this nose section on my web site will provide further info. In the end, all you can really do is paint your model the color that looks best to you, there is no "right" answer. Refer to my web site page here:

http://www.cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/Seaview/8FootModel.htm

Phil Broad

Phil, I have so been at your site, which is the very best!

You will play marry-Heck trying to duplicate it. A look at the photos of this nose section on my web site will provide further info. In the end, all you can really do is paint your model the color that looks best to you,

In the end that is pretty much what I did with mine. It was an interesting process :freak: trying to emulate what was on screen. In the end I went for a blue-grey tone that felt right with underneath being a greenish off white mix, 60/40 tamiya White to Tamiya JN Grey with a bit of dark brown thrown in to tone it down...

Now what about the darker stripe on the side at the water intake level that can be seen in season 3 and 4 I think.
Anybody doing that?

thanks starseeker2 that info helps ! I was wondering about the underside of the sail planes makes sense to have them the same color as the belly.

I'm going to try to keep the summary of whatever color info I get in an edited verion of the start post to this thread. I've already made a couple revisions and added some screen captures from the Voyage DVD. Couldn't get the captures to work with Photoshop with any program except Nero, so they have an annoying Pause button stuck into them. A couple more of these captures attached here. Again, these seem to be a Seaview filmed in 1964, getting ready for Season 2.
Note, on 7, the 8' Seaview didn't have the teardrop well for the radar mast, and someone on another thread mentioned that there were anti-skid walkways on the top of the sail planes. That appears to be the joint between the moving plane and the part fixed to the sail.

Great shots, starseeker! Thanks for the captures!

For the Flying Sub version Seaview, we have a real problem in that whatever the paint colors Fox used 2nd through fourth seasons were, at best to be described as "fugitive." One just can't exactly pin them down without having the original in one's hand. I had attempted to match those colors on the 8 footer nose section while it was briefly in my posession some 15 years or so ago with no luck. No pantone color came close and mixing colors in "Floquil" proved useless. I DID TRY! Incidentally, the four footer in F.S. version was a plain neutral gray when I saw it in December 1975.
What I can tell you is this: The top color is a brownish/slightly greenish grey. This is called from what I understand, a "mired shift" color. No true hue in particular. It changes drastically with the type of light source. That was compounded by the limber hole "plates" the ballast slots on the deck sides as well as all details, hatches doors, etc., and all shading, (there was a lot more of that than a lot of people seem to realize) in a darker and slightly greener shade of grey. It really was most unnattractive. It looked as though it was basically aircraft camoflage but in darker shades. The Model Master SAC colors somewhat darkened may be closer than anything else that I can say.


.. From an E-Mail to me by Paul Lubliner...

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/2643/seaviewcolorswithpalletfe6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/8820/originalnoseundersidecozh2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

"The top color is a brownish/slightly greenish grey. This is called from what I understand, a "mired shift" color. No true hue in particular..."
A theory: the above fairly accurately describes german uniform "Field Grey" ("feldgrau"), having been naturally weathered by being continually immersed in water. :confused:

I was just going to post those photos of the 8' nose. Well, not those, but ones very much like them.

The question is: when did the yettch color appear?

I can't believe that the the yettch colors could be the same paint we wee in the effects captures from the DVD.

The effects captures above are what the Seaview looked like during the 2nd season, at least. Below is a not great scan of the Viewmaster cover for Deadly Creature Below/Escape and it shows the same painting pattern. Somewhere I just read that the same sfx shots were used for Seasons 2 and 3 (and I seem to remember from kidhood that that was excruciatingly true) but that for Season 4 new sfx were filmed. Not having seen Season 4, I don't know if that's true. Does the 8' look different in any new sfx shots in Season 4?

Or could the 8' have been repainted even after the series, perhaps as a test for City Under the Sea, before they decided to mutilate the miniature, or could the nose itself have been repainted, perhaps for use as a 23d century toaster for another Allen production?

Can the exceedingly dark green/grey/brown currently on that nose possibly be one of the colors in the 2nd season screen grabs? And if so, which one?

how about some info on the inside colors?

In season two there appears to be a fairly thin black stripe that runs down the center & around the diver hatch. Anyone know how this actually goes?

As an aside, why do the DVD covers (at least for season two) show the 8 window version, even with the FS?

Thanks

I was just going to post those photos of the 8' nose. Well, not those, but ones very much like them.

The question is: when did the yettch color appear?

I can't believe that the the yettch colors could be the same paint we wee in the effects captures from the DVD.

The effects captures above are what the Seaview looked like during the 2nd season, at least. Below is a not great scan of the Viewmaster cover for Deadly Creature Below/Escape and it shows the same painting pattern. Somewhere I just read that the same sfx shots were used for Seasons 2 and 3 (and I seem to remember from kidhood that that was excruciatingly true) but that for Season 4 new sfx were filmed. Not having seen Season 4, I don't know if that's true. Does the 8' look different in any new sfx shots in Season 4?

Or could the 8' have been repainted even after the series, perhaps as a test for City Under the Sea, before they decided to mutilate the miniature, or could the nose itself have been repainted, perhaps for use as a 23d century toaster for another Allen production?

Can the exceedingly dark green/grey/brown currently on that nose possibly be one of the colors in the 2nd season screen grabs? And if so, which one?
looking at that picture,I just had a great idea, when my seaview is done, I will have to find my EX WIFE and take a picture of her holding it.

I had thought too that perhaps the 8-footer was repainted for some other project after "Voyage" until I thought about its two-toned scheme. It still shows the gray underside, if it had been repainted, it would most likely be one solid color.

The smaller models were used primarily for underwater scenes and in those conditions the colors tend to desaturate and the lighting becomes diffused. This may be why the model has more color and this is also why they had painted-on shadows.

Also Irwin Allen Didn't really want Seaview Standing out as much with the start of the second season.

He wanted the Flying Sub to get most of the attention(Which it may have since a lot of folks immediately Know the Flying Sub), Personally, although I do love both designs, The eight window Seaview will always be my Favorite.:thumbsup:



BP

The Seaview colors are so screwed up no one can paint it as it was. The surface model was one color, the undrewater model was another. Even the ballast vents along the hull were a darker color on the underwater model and the vents themselves were different on the two models. Not to mention the window frames on the smaller one. Just paint it what you want.

Tim Colliver in his book "Seaview: The Making of VTTBS" says that there were new and unusual shots of the sfx in the 4th season, so I picked out some of his examples and skimmed through the episodes looking for the Seaview. There isn't one shot that I could find of the 8' that doesn't match the screen grabs I posted above. In fact, a lot of the shots are from the sfx footage on the season 2 dvd (but there is a fantastic shot in Cave of the Dead from the rear of the Seaview of the FS approaching it from the front).
As for the Seaview on the surface, we still have shots of the 17' 20 missile version mixed in the all the rest.
The thing about the surviving 8' nose: is it solidly that mix of blotchy dark colors above the manta or is the extreme two tone shading that is so visible on the miniature (some highlighting around the windows but very apparent around the sonar domes) visible on that nose? The miniature was painted in stage makeup (not a theater stage either but opera overdone) in order to make its details (the keels, the decks, etc) stand out better in the underwater shoots, make the sub look 3 dimensional. That pattern of shading should stand out unmistakably on the nose in ordinary light conditions, esp around the sonar domes.

[QUOTE=Admiral Nelson;2427124]The Seaview colors are so screwed up no one can paint it as it was.

It depends. If you're doing a first season Seaview, the 4, 8 and 17 all appear to be the same paint scheme.

The FS 8' with window frames from season 2 to the end of 4 seems to be the same 3 tone color scheme (hull two shades of something and deck a lighter something still) along a very obvious pattern along the keels, lengthwise under the deck, and around the windows and sonar domes and bottom of the manta (tho the modeler would have to tone down the shades and pattern hugely as this scheme was meant to bring out details on and bring dimension to something filmed under water under studio lighting and meant to be reproduced on 19" TVs in 1965).

The FS 17 foot (no window frames and a different nose than the 8'), seems to have been painted much more subtly as it was used for out of water shots often in the sunlight. I keep thinking about the 17' while it was being restored. In the photos of it during restoration, it appears to be a lighter grey with smears of red body putty being applied. That really doesn't mean anything as that could be primer applied during the restoration. You know the modelers routine - putty, sand, prime, putty, sand, prime... - endlessly until the surface is finally smooth. The color during the restoration looks like primer. David Merriman says that's what the actual color of the 17' was when he received it. (Photo of some point during this restoration below.)

In some scenes on the surface, the 17' looks very, very dark grey. When you get certain light grey paints wet, especially if they are flat or satin paints, they turn very dark. Fresh concrete, too, when you water it during the curing process.

But whatever specific colors you actually choose, (if you want to be obsessively accurate about it) there seem really to be only a couple choices as to the pattern in which you apply those colors, and that's determined by whether your Seaview will have the 8 window nose, the 8' FS nose surfaced version or underwater version, or the 17' FS nose.

I painted mine Grey...looks cool:)
Mcdee

I'm thinking of going with a very dark-white, or maybe a very very light black.. or somewhere in-between those two hues. :freak:

The Seaview colors are so screwed up no one can paint it as it was. The surface model was one color, the undrewater model was another. Even the ballast vents along the hull were a darker color on the underwater model and the vents themselves were different on the two models. Not to mention the window frames on the smaller one. Just paint it what you want.


"You vill shoot Kapitan Craine...you vill shoot Kapitain Craine...you vill shoot Kapitain Craine..." :)

Ya know...We're gonna need a German WWII Era Sub in the same scale as the Seaview. Maybe a little Klaatu Saucer too?

D'oh! - what an idiot. I've been assuming that there was only one 8' Seaview. But in the June 1985 issue of Scale Modeler, the author states that Herb Cheek's model shop produced several 4'ers, several 8'ers and only the one 17'.
It makes total sense that there would be more than one 8', as it was the workhorse miniature of the show. What if it was damaged? (I do now remember reading somewhere that a couple of the 8'ers were rigged to do different things, and as to damage I remember reading that a stuntman did rip the nose off of one miniature during filming.) After all, there were at least 6 or 8 4' Jupiter 2s.
There's a photo of the Seaview on the surface in the booklet that comes with the GNP soundtrack. It's got window frames. It's an 8'. It's very dark in color, possibly the yeeetch color.
For surface shots, the FS Seaviews were probably colored for sunlight and normal filming. Perhaps the only yeeetch Seaview was an 8' surface Seaview, of which only the nose still exists. If the rest of that Seaview has disappeared, why couldn't entire other Seaviews disappear as well? For underwater shots, the FS Seaviews were probably colored lightly and weathered for filming through water, to show detail, to balance what water did to the lights, etc. The post above with the Deadly Creature Below holding the Seaview, the Seaview is much, much lighter in color than the creature. Photoshopping a sample of the color of the pictures of the 8' nose and of the paint chip post, pure black is about the only color darker than the nose of the 8'. But the creature isn't nearly that dark.
No, there had to be more than one 8'. It's color didn't change between seasons 2 and 4, their colors remained different from seasons 2 - 4.
I mean, if the existing nose is one color and the color of the 8' on screen was consistently another color, what's the other option?
So now probably another choice. You have to choose a paint scheme not only based on nose but now whether you want to represent an underwater or surface Seaview??
Edit: Added a scan of the soundtrack album photo of the dark 8' to post #8 above.

I still think Metalic Purple with flames is a great!!!!! Either that or Gray or Grey!! Geeeze I thought the trekies were picky ...LOL Just a kidding guys ... Jeff

I painted mine Grey...looks cool:)
Mcdee

God bless ya! :lol:

Hey, who left the coffee cup on the missile deck?

David Merriman's coffee cup, I would presume. He seems like a heavily caffeinated type guy. I've got to try it.

Geeeze I thought the trekies were picky ...LOL Just a kidding guys ... Jeff

You're right - I've been at this way too long. I just photoshopped color matches from the screen captures, got pantone #s for the best matches that I could get, was just searching for a way of matching them with anything FS. Way too much time. I give up.

"....After all, there were at least 6 or 8 4' Jupiter 2s."


NO... Their were 2 for sure, and one rumored one. Hero, Pod Dropper, and a possible Pyro abuse version.

can someone post color suggestions for the interior ????
pleaseeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!

can someone post color suggestions for the interior ????
pleaseeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!


Buy The DVDS.

Get The second Season. As you watch, Make yourself notes. The best way(IMHO).


BP

NO... Their were 2 for sure, and one rumored one. Hero, Pod Dropper, and a possible Pyro abuse version.

See post 2: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=222276

And who knows the site that shows the grabs from City Beneath the Sea that highlight about 6 4' Jupiter 2s converted into buildings? I saw it last week and now I can't find it again. Sigh.

As for Pod Dropper, the smallest pod miniature I've heard of is about 16". If that was the 4' J2, then there was a pod that was about 5" at best. More likely that was the 10' J2.

What were we talking about? :freak:

I've got to watch the eps again. Is the deck really dk. sea blue? It's listed as Model Masters Enamel #1717. I also found a reference to Humbrol Enamel #181 and to Tamiya XF-17. I thought it was a dark grey, like Gunship Grey.

What were we talking about? :freak:

I've got to watch the eps again. Is the deck really dk. sea blue? It's listed as Model Masters Enamel #1717. I also found a reference to Humbrol Enamel #181 and to Tamiya XF-17. I thought it was a dark grey, like Gunship Grey.


NO the deck IS NOT Dk Sea Blue.

The deck color I used is called Real Blue. And it's glossy. That's the color MY eyes came up with, Based on the DVDS AND STIll Pictures.


BP

Hull blanks? They only built out 2 -4 foot hulls. A Gear version, and a pod dropper.

The 10 foot model was NEVER USED IN THE LIS TV SHOW. Any info on those supposed other 4 foot hulls? were they done AFTER LIS was cancelled?

How do you know? What's your reference for that? I'd love to know more about the 10". All I have is what's written at this site: http://jupiter2.freeyellow.com/10foot/10ftj2.htm
and it's anything but definitive. I've never heard of a 5 or 6" space pod miniature, but I've seen pictures of one approx 16" tall, which would scale perfectly to the 10'. Hard to believe they'd make the 10' right down to the working hatches and landing gear and never to have filmed it for anything.

Anyway, we do have the 1985 Scale Modeler article that states that several 8' Seaviews were made. I wonder who the author, Robert Lewandoski, is/was and what his sources were. His material appears to come from interviews with some of the principals and covers much the same stuff as Tim Colliver later did in his Making of VTTBS, tho not with as much detail. Different Seaviews would explain how the 8' could be different colors at the same time. Or it could have been the same 8', re-painted after all the underwater sfx were filmed before the 2nd season, filmed to match surface shots of the 17'. Something we'll never know.

Starseeker. I've been blathering about the Jupiter 2 since the 1990's. I have found that plans and scripts and shooting schedules had entries that they NEVER produced. they DID build the 10 foot Jupiter 2. VERY HEAVY, Large and difficult to work with. The only Jupiter 2 that went missing is the small 10 " model. The 2 four footers exist, and the 10 footer exists. No details exist for the J2 Hulls used in City Beneath the Sea. All you have is a film record.


Fan produced 'documentation' is prone to mistakes and embellishments. I wait til I see 2-3 references where the writers DIDN'T share info back n forth. In the past years the Jupiter 2 has REALLY BEEN DISCUSSED A LOT! Shape, what happened to the models, HOW the mechanics worked, What model was filmed where..bla-bla-bla...

A plausable theory about the missing 10" Jupiter II model was that it was residing in Irwin Allens' office when it burned to the ground in the Hollywoood Hills fire back in the 1980's.
I believe that one of the 4' Seaviews perished in the same fire, quite possibly the same one that was used in Admiral Nelson's office in the feature film, and later seen in the bow observation room during the first season. :(

[QUOTE=starseeker2;2428555] What's your reference for that?

So (unless your attachment allotment is full) none. Not even any links? That's what I thought. Me, either. In all these years, I've never seen anything from anyone even peripherally connected with the making of the show who's mentioned the existence of a 10' miniature. Let alone what the 10' did or didn't do, or what it was or wasn't used for. If it wasn't for Phil Broad perhaps the reality of the 10' would have remained undiscovered forever. Just think of the stuff that must be in the Fox landfills.

Well, this thread sure seems to have outlived its usefulness. Sigh. I guess almost everything that can be said about Seaview colors from what I've gleaned from other threads and frpm the comments on this thread is what I've summarized and pictured in posts #1 and #8. I've tried to photoshop color matches from the screen grabs. The Seaview seems to be the exact opposite of the Surak in Star Trek TMP. The Surak miniature was painted in various shades of pink and lavender that all turned various shades of grey on film. The Seaview, I'm sure, was painted various shades of grey, or blue grey, or green blue grey, and because of lighting or the film balance or color saturation or whatever they show up on screen as various shades of pink and lavender.

What someone said: paint it what you want. You really can't go too far wrong.


As for the differences in the shape of the nose between the 17 and 8' (which may or may not influence how you want to paint the Seaview, as the 17' was never seen in under water colors), see my drawings in the My Seaview Drawings thread or check out some of the photos I based those drawings on at this great site:
http://rtq.net/rtq/modeling/Seaview/SeaviewStudioModels_pt1.asp
The green color on the bottom of the 1st season Seaview shows up much better there in Fig. 3 than in my scan and post.

There were two "Pod" models that personally saw at the studio, one was about 8 inches high and the other was about 30 inches high. The big model was in a plexiglass display case which indicates uses beyond FX (although I have no doubt that it was used for filming). I think that the fellow at the studio told me that the model had been used as a display at a "Board of Directors" meeting or some such studio business conference so they had put it in that case. Some time later it appeared on display at "Marineland" along with the 8-foot seaview. The small model was on a shelf in the office of the fellow who ran the Prop/Miniature shop. Now, this was 30 years ago so the sizes are based on memories which are quite "stale". A look at the plans would probably provide sufficient information to figure out exactly how big they were (by deciding the nearest scale to those sizes). The small one was probably to scale with the 4-foot J2 while the big one may have been scaled to the 10-foot model.

As far as the 10-foot model is concerned, they built it so they used it. The studio would not build a costly model like that and not use it. They had a specific set of needs in mind when they authorized its construction and you can be certain that those needs were met. Generally speaking, I doubt that it would have been used for "flying" shots because it was so heavy but it may well have launched the big "Pod". The studio did have a rather substantial crane/arm on the roof of the Mill which looks like it was used to swing models in an arc for filming against real sky BGs and it was probably plenty strong enough to handle the 10-foot J2. This crane is visible in some shots of the Mill where it doubles as the "Nelson Institute" in VTTBOTS or where it is used as an airport in the same show. There is one LIS shot in particular that I'm thinking of where the J2 flies past and the camera pans to follow it against a sky BG. This might be the 10-footer on the crane rig. There are probably others but I'd have to go back through the series to look for possible shots.

The smaller pod was in scale with the 4 foot pod dropper J2. That model had no gear. It was locked off and filmed just like the Seaview/FS-1 bit with a small winch lowering the model out of the bay.

The larger pod was to establish scale, and that model had the working antenna bits. There would be no reason to rig up TWO DIFFERENT pod dropping arrangements when teh oneon teh 4 footer worked fine.

The 10 footer MAY HAVE BEEN BUILT, but when they tried to use it, the 10 foot job proved to be to large to work with. The tests proved it was not usable for the requirements, and with a re-write of the script, the Cyclops scenes were cut. Remember that the 10 foot Jupiter 2 weighed over 300 pounds!

Can we still talk about Seaview colors? :hat:

Y3a, you speak with such certainty. What is your source of information? The 10 foot J2 was too big to work with? Do you know how big the largest Seaview was? Do you know how big the Battleships were for "Tora, Tora, Tora" or how big the "Poseidon" was for "The Poseidon Adventure"? 300 pounds is nothing compared to the other models that Fox was building and using. Still, that doesn't prove that it was used but so far I haven't seen any evidence that it wasn't used, just opinion. I would be interested to learn the facts of the matter.

Actually, their is no proof it WAS used. I have heard from someone who dug thru the shooting schedules, scripts etc, and couldn't ever find a reference to the 10 foot model being used in a scene that was actually shot. You've seen the SPFX shots from Lost in Space Forever? Some of the clips you saw were NEVER USED in LIS, but they were filmed. Also remember LIS didn't have a big SPFX budget, and they used THAT UP pretty fast. They weren't gonna use the big cranes. The 4 foot model was on a 50 foot mike boom. The supporting wires provided power for the gear. 2 batteries on the model provided the motor and lights power. Both L.B.Abbott and Lydecker spoke of a control panel for the J2. Never even seen a picture. All the rest of the SPFX stuff ws very crude. Simple 1960's era technology.

June Lockhart said they used a 10 footer to crash at the pinnicles. two crewmen said otherwise. I have seen photos of a 2 foot model held where the 4 footer would have been, and YUP, looks half the size of the 4 foot model.

Being that I've been a Jupiter 2 fanatic since LIS was originally on, (4th - 6th grade) I've been collecting stuff for decades.
I have the L.B.Abbot Book, and lots of junk off the web. I wanted to know how the J2 worked as a SPFX model. didn't find anything useful until mid-1980's. I have Cinefex since the beginning too, even though they really never discusses Irwin Allen or SPFX side of any of his movies/Tv shows.

Might be a good idea to move this to a J2 thread or LIS.

I think Beatlepaul is right. I got a bottle of Testor's MM Dark Sea Blue and it looks WAY off compared to what I see in the series DVD. Now I'm starting to question the rest of the callout sheet that was supplied with the kit. This totally sux as I am in the middle of doing a conversion chart for a couple of paint lines not included in the sheet.

I'm getting that sinking, "back to square one" kinda feeling... :freak:

WARNING: Although a valient effort, on the part of Moebius , I recommend ignoring the paint callout sheet and use your own eyes and season 2 DVDs for reference. This is not a dig against Moebius, simply an observation that most kit manufacturers make the same critical mistakes during research. Still my vote for the best kit....EVER!

WARNING: Although a valient effort, on the part of Moebius , I recommend ignoring the paint callout sheet and use your own eyes and season 2 DVDs for reference. This is not a dig against Moebius, simply an observation that most kit manufacturers make the same critical mistakes during research. Still my vote for the best kit....EVER! How do you know the color is correct on your television?

Here's what I can tell you for sure, being a graphics and web guy: Computer monitors--all of them--need to be calibrated regularly to display colors correctly. Televisions are very much the same. The colors change, maybe not drastically, but they change over time. Colors are even different from set to set, in the same brand, when the sets are new.

What I'm trying to get at is you cannot be sure of the colors when looking at them on screen. I would take the word of the team of people involved in reasearching and producing the model (some considered experts on the subject), before I'd trust my television.

That's just my biased opinion. :)

You just have to paint what looks correct to your eyes The PL Jupiter 2 colors were way off BUT, Bob perovich created the PERFECT paint scheme and is also working on one for this seaview using his DVD's. He knows what he is doing and if anyone can get the colors nailed Bob is the guy to get it done.

KIT junkie is correct, CRT screens distort colors, as do studio lights and filters. Which is why lighting directors get paid the big bucks. LCD screens are a bit (No pun intended) more accurate but the key is to paint to please your eye and perception. Sometimes kit instructions call for a color that is just flat out wrong or way off. So the bottom line here is to paint any model to look pleasing to you and how you remember it or what looks right to you! Have fun...it's not rocket science.