Anyone cycling LIPOs?
Are two packs exactly the exact same?
Do some have higher discharge curves?
And do you have to heat packs to get higher voltage output?

Just curious....

Please don't attempt any of the tests I'm performing or use a charge rate higher than 1C. Never warmup your Lipo packs. Doing any of this can result in fire and can be dangerous

I believe that testing a pack on GFX is still meaningful with Lipos but it won't tell you everything as C rate is also important.

Most packs I have tested are in the 7.02-7.18 range. Our 22C/5000 pack is in the 7.22-7.28 range.

When you have run your packs on the track and if they have been sitting for awhile you should be getting lower voltage and higher IR when you cycle them. If you want to get the voltage back up and IR back down you should cycle the packs a few times. If you want even better numbers cycle the pack using a 12 amp charge and as soon as the cycle is finished and you have written down the numbers start another cycle using a 12 amp charge. This will give you lower IR and higher average voltage and possibly a few more seconds of runtime.
danny @smc


Please don't attempt any of the tests I'm performing or use a charge rate higher than 1C. Never warmup your Lipo packs. Doing any of this can result in fire and can be dangerous

In theory it should be harder on the pack but I know that Tony Moffre only charges at 12 amps and his packs seem to be holding up well. I have 2 packs that I used in offroad and only charged them at 5 amps and they have been sitting with charge in them for 3 months and seem to have lost 20 seconds of runtime. Tonys packs have lost about the same amount of runtime with many more cycles and using a 12 amp charge rate.

I'm trying to test the difference between heating up the pack and cycling it or doing the back to back cycling to see what works best but with any test it takes a bit of time to come to the conclusion.


Here are some results about cycling packs after they have been stored and run on the track.

1st cycle 5amp chg.: 13.2 IR - 503 Sec. - 7.14 V.

2nd cycle 12amp: 11.2 - 506 - 7.21 This cycle was on the next day.

3rd cycle 12amp: 9.4 - 508 - 7.28 This cycle was started immediately after the 2nd cycle finished.


I'm not sure on what this will do to the life expectancy of the packs but as a racer the difference in performance should be noticeable and if you want your packs to run as fast as possible you will need to do something similar to this. I'm sure Tony can say how many cycles he has on some of our 22C/5000 packs and if they are still cycling good.

danny @smc

All my info is based on the serious racer who races in types of racing where speed is important. If you run in such a class then Lipos will need to be treated in certain ways to keep them at there best. If you race for the fun of the hobby or in classes where speed is not critical then all of this is not important and you can just keep repeaking your Lipos.


Lipos seem to accept a better charge when they are warm/hot. I have yet to figure out the ideal temperature but I'm working on it.
danny@smc

ALL THE INFO YOU CARE TO READ ABOUT LIPOS HERE =====> http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=205874

What discharge rate are they using to get those numbers.

Jay - I'm purdy sure they are discharging at 35 amps. I think i saw that in one of Moffre's posts....:thumbsup:

Hey next time use the codename....Hardhat....Don't use my name....LOL....next question is are those numbers posted above with the orion batt or the the SMC batts. When I cycled my orions i got about 324@35 discharge.

Hey next time use the codename....Hardhat....Don't use my name....LOL....next question is are those numbers posted above with the orion batt or the the SMC batts. When I cycled my orions i got about 324@35 discharge.

They are with a 5000 MAH pack :)
I just cycled my ProMatch 5000 10 amp charge, 35 amp discharge
549 runtime
7.33 voltage
6.7 IR

Hey next time use the codename....Hardhat....Don't use my name....LOL....next question is are those numbers posted above with the orion batt or the the SMC batts. When I cycled my orions i got about 324@35 discharge.


Oops! My bad "HASTINGS". Wont ever happen again SIR. LOL

Also curious.. with everyone running the Orion 3200 in 21.5 - what happen if batteries were opened to like 3500? Are they all real close if they stay at same MAH?

IMO I think you open all classes up to a max MAH and be done with it.

But to answer your question yes the 3500 would be a bit better than the 3200. As long as they are equal cells :)

If you want your lipo to run strong cycle it 2-4 times before you even go to the track (same day) then run it hard once your there :) JMO

Raymond

there are alot of companies getting the 3200 made so there will be more options very soon!

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?pname=Yeah-Racing-LP-0032-Li-Po-Pack-7.4V-3200Mah-20C&cPath=52_973&products_id=25829

3200 for a great price... anyone try them?

Yea racing lipo's are not legal here. only orion or peak. so you better ask you race director if you can use them.

The only legal/safe way to increase the voltage and lower the IR is to heat the pack before running. It needs to be over 100F but under 140F (I shoot for 120) . This has been deemed safe by the on line LiPo experts.
In back to back testing on my GFX (and track) the voltage went up... I dont have the test numbers in front of me... but I think the room temp SMC pack had 7.35 and the 120 degree pack had 7.45V. Also the IR dropped quit a bit.
Pretty much free HP.

Arizona is the perfect place to use lipo's. My pack is 105+ before it even hits the charger :)

Ray-alol...

i'm just happy they are care free batteries and require 0 maintenance!ahahahhahahaahha

...I still see them pretty much as ZERO maintanence, and so far mine have lasted a lot longer than the 4200's I ran last year...and although I ain't no top level driver, I put mine on the track either with me or my son running them dang near every weekend 12 months a year...(This weekend is FATHER'S DAY...and will be the FIRST weekend NOT racing or at least running in 8 or 9 weeks.)

I loved the switch to 4 cell 10+ years ago, and love the 3200 LIPO batteries now too. I do wish there was one class that ran a tick slower but I have fun running both 21.5 and 17.5 LIPO classes. (When I wanna go slower...there is this SPEC TRUCK class I get to run with my old 3800 pack that's still kicking)

the problem is joe....if the top racers ever went all lipo...we would be doing any and everything to get the last tenth of a volt out of the packs and be buying them up as much as we buy nimh cells now.....our nature is to exploit the epuipment we have to get an edge on the other guy.

f the top racers ever went all lipo...we would be doing any and everything to get the last tenth of a volt out of the packs and be buying them up as much as we buy nimh cells now

I don't care - let them... at least I and guys who race like I do have something we can run the way WE run that'll last all freakin' year... We didn't have that option with the 4200's. They went to crap for the TOP Dogs out here...but they also went to crap just as fast for the conservative guys who tried to baby them. (sometimes I think they went bad FASTER for the guys who tried to baby them.

I tried to go back to 3800's, but they were so down on voltage compared to the HV4200's I didn't stand a chance - bought 4 more 4200's and was back on pace - 2 1/2 months later - those 4200's were JUNK and I did it all over again.

Personally, I'm not particularly concerned about what the "HOTDOG" drivers do - and I really don't care if they never switch to LIPO (The longer they DON'T switch - the longer we have before it gets RUINED!)

Personally, I'm not particularly concerned about what the "HOTDOG" drivers do - and I really don't care if they never switch to LIPO (The longer they DON'T switch - the longer we have before it gets RUINED!)

AMEN JOE!!! Nothing has been said better!!!