I am preparing to install a new 230RC red cap. Are there any certain break in procedures for these engines, other than what the instructions recommend. Thanks.

~Brad

I am preparing to install a new 230RC red cap. Are there any certain break in procedures for these engines, other than what the instructions recommend. Thanks.

~Brad
Brad:
Put it in the car and run it. It will get better with each run as the ring seats. If you want to run it on a prop prior to installing it you can do so but not needed. Brent Gottfried used a new motor a couple weeks back at Freddies and blew the field away. I mean a new motor out of the bag from Randy Bakers trailer. Got stronger with each run.

Yeah Fred is right. It all depends on who you talk to. Some people take great care and pride in breaking their motors in a certain way whether it be in the car or with a prop. However there are A LOT of people who say just bolt them in and go...they will break themselves in. I would recomend at least using a non synthetic oil for the first five tanks of fuel or so though.

Brad,
I us a non synthetic oil and alittle more than normal to break mine in. It will seat the ring quicker.
I am preparing to install a new 230RC red cap. Are there any certain break in procedures for these engines, other than what the instructions recommend. Thanks.

~Brad

Yeah Fred is right. It all depends on who you talk to. Some people take great care and pride in breaking their motors in a certain way whether it be in the car or with a prop. However there are A LOT of people who say just bolt them in and go...they will break themselves in. I would recomend at least using a non synthetic oil for the first five tanks of fuel or so though.

Chance and Jeff are correct about the oil. The ring will seat much faster by using a non synthetic oil. If using a prop to break in the motor run the motor thru several heat cycles. Start the motor and bring it up to temp and pull the throttle and run a tank of fuel thru. I then let the motor cool down a bit and then fire up and run another tank thru at full throttle. Do this for three or four tanks and then go racing. The motor should be ready.

I think its true about the non-synthetic oil with the older version engines. I'm not so sure it's necessary with the new thin ring engines, just my opinion.

Chance and Jeff are correct about the oil. The ring will seat much faster by using a non synthetic oil. If using a prop to break in the motor run the motor thru several heat cycles. Start the motor and bring it up to temp and pull the throttle and run a tank of fuel thru. I then let the motor cool down a bit and then fire up and run another tank thru at full throttle. Do this for three or four tanks and then go racing. The motor should be ready.

Very good Fred and Chance. Heat cycles are the ticket. And for someone who doesn't understand the Prop thing. It will put the motor under a load, and build heat. But it will not let a engine run wild on RPM which just destroy's a engine. worst thing you can do, IS FREE REV a Engine.
:thumbsup:

Brent. Synthetic oil has much better lubrication properties, than the good old tradition petro base oil. Which if it has very little friction on inital break in. it will take longer,to seat in.

But with that said. it does matter on the ring composition as well as what the cylinder wall is coated with.

Heat Cycles/and a Load during.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Thanks guys. This is good info.

~Brad

Drive it like you stole it. That works for me Brad. LOL:thumbsup:Thanks guys. This is good info.

~Brad