I was wondering if anyone has ever used a self leveling floor epoxy patch. I was thinking about trying it to level the area around my door track, mix it up pour and have a set in track. The idea sounds good but I am looking for input on it Thanks

I have never read/heard of anyone ever using it and I have zero experience with the stuff. But in my imagination, I think you'd have to be absolutely certain that no portions of your track are below the level that the epoxy will seek once poured. Otherwise, you'll have overrun onto the track surface. Depending on it's consistency, I'm wondering if any might sneak into some of the track joints and foul up rail connections too.

That said, I really like the look of a sunken track. Good luck with it, whatever method you choose. Please keep us posted.

In theory the epoxy sounds like a good idea.But,as said above,if you are not 100% military spec as far as the track being level,forget it.

I tried the inlaid track idea on my 16X4 layout.Wasnt what I expected,tore it all up and went with cork borders instead.

Tjet,I have not forgotten you neighbor.I have been putting a LOT of time into my track over the last few weeks,goal being to replicate a routed track as best as I can.ABout another week,two tops,and it will be D O N E DONE.

Putting in the final pieces this week,and then finishing the electrical stuff.

When its done,I'll have you over,run some laps and shoot the you know what.Im off Mondays and Tuesdays,Id like to try to start some sort of club.Im fairly sure that there are guys within a short driving distance of us that would love to get in on the action.

And I can most definetly help you out as far as getting your layout done as well.The more tracks around here to race on,the better I say.



Mike

In theory the epoxy sounds like a good idea.But,as said above,if you are not 100% military spec as far as the track being level,forget it.

I tried the inlaid track idea on my 16X4 layout.Wasnt what I expected,tore it all up and went with cork borders instead.

Tjet,I have not forgotten you neighbor.I have been putting a LOT of time into my track over the last few weeks,goal being to replicate a routed track as best as I can.ABout another week,two tops,and it will be D O N E DONE.

Putting in the final pieces this week,and then finishing the electrical stuff.

When its done,I'll have you over,run some laps and shoot the you know what.Im off Mondays and Tuesdays,Id like to try to start some sort of club.Im fairly sure that there are guys within a short driving distance of us that would love to get in on the action.

And I can most definetly help you out as far as getting your layout done as well.The more tracks around here to race on,the better I say.



Mike

My track will mostly be a Pa thing but you would be wellcome.

Epoxy and similar Alumalite products are expensive and
hard to remove later.I recomend making 1/4" plywood
cutouts by laying the track or identicle track sections
on top of the plywood,tracing and cutting with a jig saw.
Then glue them in place,paint and then seal the track/
plywood gap with black silicone sealant.

Epoxy and similar Alumalite products are expensive and
hard to remove later.I recomend making 1/4" plywood
cutouts by laying the track or identicle track sections
on top of the plywood,tracing and cutting with a jig saw.
Then glue them in place,paint and then seal the track/
plywood gap with black silicone sealant.

I had been thinking masonite but it sucks to cut. 1/4 ply may be the answer I have been looking for thanks

Do an experimental section before you commit. I would caulk where the track meets the table to be sure no epoxy seeps under the track.

I Have Built About A Dozen Tomy Tracks And Have Inlaid Them All Using Masonite And Construstion Glue....they Come Out Perfect If Done Right If You Use A Very Smooth Blade That Cuts With No Burrs Or Fuzzing. Also When Glueing Down The Masonite There Is A Trick To Floating The (a Bit Thinner )masonite To The Exact Level Of The Plastic Track...
I Race Rubber Tired Dirt Track Tjets And A Perfectly Smooth Border Is A Must....

Tjettom Baker

I was going to do mdf but to nail the track and get a good outline in mdf is like impossible brads just bouce off the stuff. Then i was going to nail thru paper get an outline and transfer it but I think the 1/4 ply will do well, I can adjust the track, tack it in place then get a good outline. Thanks for all the help

I considered a lot of these products mentioned. I wanted a flush look that you might expect to see on a 1:1 roadway too. Didn't have much in the way of powertools that would do a decent job of cutting sheet goods though. So I used sculptamold. Seemed to work pretty good. Filled in some areas over a layer of bubble wrap... on others I built up the b-wrap by stuffing it and then put a layer of sculptamold over it. No power tools... just a cake frosting spatula. :o nd

Some home centers or building suppliers have 1/4 in. sheet rock.It cuts easy,is light and if you mess up the cuts you can fix it with wallboard compound.You're not using it for structural strenth.You can put it down with construction adhesive.Tom

I too wanted a below level track. I needed to keep in mind that weight was an issue for me, so I used 1/4" foam board covered with plaster cloth, so far it's working out well. Used silicone sealant to hold in place and Spackle to fill in where needed. Whatever you decide good luck.

Ogre