I have a Cub Cadet LT1045 hydro, and my elec. clutch may be shot. I bought a new pto on/off switch and it still only sometimes gets the blades to engage. I had it going today until I shut the motor off and then could never get the clutch to engage when I started it back up 5 min. later. Could this mean my clutch is gone? or maybe the belt is too tight? Any help would be appreciated. Dutch

Some clutches have an adjustment that can be made to take up for wear. If it has a non adjustable clutch, then it may be time to replace the clutch.

If you can post the model number of your rider, we can find out which clutch your unit has and may be able to assist you further. The model number should be located on a sticker underneath the seat or on the frame on the side of the tractor.

Looking at the IPL for the LT 1045, it appears that the clutch is the non adjustable type. Check and make sure you are getting current to the clutch, if you are, then most likely the clutch is going to need to be replaced.

gosh, I sure hope it isn't going bad on you, those electric clutches are NOT cheap

Here is the model # 183636 and underneath that is 13ax11ch712, and the serial # is 1b215h20371. How would I check current on the clutch. I do have a muli-meter handy.

Here is the model # 183636 and underneath that is 13ax11ch712, and the serial # is 1b215h20371. How would I check current on the clutch. I do have a muli-meter handy.

Yes, your tractor shows to have the non adjustable type of electric clutch.

Locate the power lead from the clutch and follow to the plug. Disconnect the plug, insert your probes from your multimeter into each terminal of the plug coming from the tractor (not the clutch). Turn on your multimeter and set it to DC current setting at least 20 volts, then turn the ignition key to the on position and engage the PTO switch. You should get 12-14 volts at the plug

one of the wires gets 12 v and the other one shows a dead short. I had the mower on and tested with the switch off, no v's and with it on I had 12. Took the plug apart and tested each wire and only one shows voltage and the other o. Does anyone know where to find a used clutch?:) Dutch

did you check it multiple times? might be possible that there is a short somewhere or possibly a grounding problem, also, do your blades turn freely? if not, it might be getting jammed....I'm just think of things to check out because normally a electric clutch is around $500

one of the wires gets 12 v and the other one shows a dead short. I had the mower on and tested with the switch off, no v's and with it on I had 12. Took the plug apart and tested each wire and only one shows voltage and the other o. Does anyone know where to find a used clutch?:) Dutch
Only one of the terminals will show voltage, the other is a ground, thats why I wanted you to plug both leads into the plug. You would either get a positive or negative reading, but either way you would have power to the clutch.

It's unlikely that you will find a good used clutch. These clutches are specific to the application. The part number for the clutch shows to be 917-04163A. I found one on ebay for 149.00 new, just google the part number and see what you get.

wow, thats one of the cheapest electric clutchs I've ever seen....$197 at Jacks Small Engines

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The blades kinda move freely, you cant just push em with your hand and watch them spin, should the pulley on the clutch move freely with the pto disengaged? cause mine doesnt. The inside hole where the crank goes through moves freely, obviously, but the pulley that spins the belt for the blades does not. Dutch

The blades kinda move freely, you cant just push em with your hand and watch them spin, should the pulley on the clutch move freely with the pto disengaged? cause mine doesnt. The inside hole where the crank goes through moves freely, obviously, but the pulley that spins the belt for the blades does not. Dutch

No the blades or pulley will not spin freely, there is a brake in the clutch to help stop the blades from rotating when turned off.

Must be that your boss is overpriced to his customers. :dude:

Around $250 straight from MTD

https://www.buymtdonline.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/OrderItemDisplay?catalogId=19502&langId=-1&storeId=10101&krypto=ei%2FdTl%2BDkYRLWhgyYVviTtU611XU8lDly%2Bejk rBQPLmUs68jStttao121qDGYX%2BoX97z%2BbMz1KCb%0ALW%2 Fa%2BY5AnC%2Fh1NHKgA1X%2BV%2Bv93w%2BlYJEZmPcpUlHh9 Ly6XEsGyJp1gPw7k96rkN1Va7bAPTlcHMh%0AIV3Y6S8YJKOfO qWFpkPaHW9P3WhGOaxmrFl2YIsXVricY4sS7gwu9DAA3N9lyTa zsXeAMLrj%2BY%2Bd%0AlVw9IYA3ioOaYYr72nNuYXhoJijbp% 2BglzelFIE5VO0Cnk0CYyKGcarbXB6Ktq4gX6F4%2BMokr4QCS %0Aiuve5LVaVDrccAv3vE0s6P%2B0PGQpPs3iVQGJkw%3D%3D&ddkey=OrderCalculate
no I've seen them that much at what stens said in the book for retail

So does everyone agree thats the problem? Bad clutch. I have looked over the entire machine and have found no bad wires or connections.

Based on your description I feel pretty sure the problem is your clutch. There are specific resistance readings for the coil on the clutches. If you can get a hold of a service manual for your tractor and find out what they should be, you could check it with an ohm meter and tell for sure.

about the only other thing that it could be

actually I think its the relay that plugs into the harness, There only $24 so im going to try that. The clutch shouldn't go bad so quicklycause the tractor only has 60 hours on it.

No, your right the clutch should not go bad that fast. How old is your unit, if it's still under warranty you should take it in and have it checked out. You could void your warranty tinkering with it yourself.

The relay is for the safety interlock, if your getting voltage at the plug to the clutch when the switch is turned on as you indicated and the other terminal is grounding properly, then the relay is not going to change anything (other then the amount of money in your wallet) why not take your clutch in to your local shop and have them test it for you.

you can test them? I'm curious of this, just a special plug made up to plug into a battery charger?

you can test them? I'm curious of this, just a special plug made up to plug into a battery charger?

You bet you can check them.

You know the fuel solenoid we were talking about a few weeks ago??

Well, these electric clutches are basically the same thing. It's just a coil of wire that once energized produces a magnetic field that draws the clutch plates together to engage the drive. Depending on the coil winding thats utilized in the clutch, you just need a multimeter to test the resistance in the coil winding. If it's within the given specs then it's good, of course as long as the clutch plates and bearings are not worn out that is. What usually happens to these clutches, it the clutch plate wears and the air gap increases, when this happens more current is required to engage the clutch, with the increase in current the coil gets hotter and the insulating material that covers the wire in the coil winding can melt and short part of the winding out. When this happens then even more current is needed to engage the clutch or the magnetic field that is created from the shorted winding is not great enough to engage the clutch, and the clutch quits working. That is why it's important to adjust the air gap on these clutches periodically. The clutch used on this Cub however is self adjusting, most likely the coil winding failed prematurely. If you know the specs for this clutch then you can take an ohm reading and know if this is what is causing the problem.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=60337&stc=1&d=1212118809
PG_17_Warner.pdf

hmm, thats interesting, I don't check fuel solenoids like that though, I just hook them back up to the tractor, or to the battery charger, and see if it pops up and down like it should.....bery interesting though 30year, thank you

Hey guys sorry I didnt get back at you earlier but Ive been busy. I replaced the relay and that fixed it. Just wanted to let you guys know and to say thanks for the help. Im posting another question about a craftsman, which I have been using since the cub was down, man Im hard on my machines. :freak: Dutch