I've finally started on my HO track.

It will be 69' long, and will fit on two 4x8' tables arranged in a 4x16' configuration.

The tables (aka 'benchwork') are L-girder construction, much favored by the model railroading folks. I used 'How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork' 2nd edition as my reference and how-to guide.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/IMG_0045.JPG

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/IMG_00431.JPG

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/IMG_0047.JPG

The benchwork is very light, very stiff, and was easy to construct. You can find more pictures in my album.

The roadbed is going to be a combination of 'cookie-cutter' and traditional 'roadbed' type construction. I will be using 1/2" MDF as the base.

The layout design is a HO version of a commercial 1/24 scale 'Hillclimb' track. Hillclimb tracks are favored in the commercial environment because they are significantly more efficient in their use of floor space than regular tracks. Since they are also a decent design from a driving standpoint, hillclimb tracks are very popular in commercial raceways. The decreasing radius turn on the flat portion of my design is not found on normal hillclimbs. I lifted that from a commercial track design called the 'Odessa'.

I chose a hillclimb design because I *might* build a routed 1/32 scale hillclimb track someday. Hillclimb tracks are a tough type of track to build because of the elevation and visibility issues, and I thought that I would take advantage of this chance to 'practice' with plastic track first.

Here's my layout:
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/Hillclimb_9a.JPG

The normal direction of travel is 'up' the donut.

For comparison, here is a commercial hillclimb track that is a mirror image of my layout:

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/115_ft_6ln_hillclimb.jpg

Using recommended ergonomic eye heights I found on the Web, plus a CAD model I built to check sight lines, it appears that having the hillclimb portion of the track 7" above the bottom portion should allow everyone to see both levels.

Neither the uphill or downhill portions of the track will be banked. I may camber the downhill portion a bit, but that isn't definite yet.

-- Bill

Looks fantastic, can't wait to see it come together.

"Best Benchwork Ever"! :thumbsup:

Seriously, it looks great, and I like that you are showing a different way to build a table.

What are envisioning for the wiring under the table? Holes or notches in wood, or looping wires underneath?

Off to a well thought out and well supported start. nd

Everyone --

Thanks for the encouragement and the complements.

The L-girders are deceptively strong. While my support legs are less than 8' apart, you can build unsupported spans (distance between legs) of around 13' using the same size L-girders that I have used. A table using 3 pairs of legs could be as long as 34' or so when you include the allowable amount of overhang at the ends.

The L-girders are simply a 1x4 attached to a 1x2 and glued together. I used screws to hold the girder parts together when I glued them with Elmer's Carpenter's Glue, but when the glue was dry I removed the screws. The book says that after the glue dries, the screws don't add any strength to the girder... I never realized that Elmer's glue was that strong. Apparently, even Elmer's white glue (which we all used in school as kids) is strong enough to use, but the Carpenter's glue is even stronger.

The legs are 2x2s, and the angled leg supports are 1x2 firring strips. Everything is screwed together using drywall screws.

The flat portions of the track will be supported by the MDF laying on the 1x4 cross-members, while the raised portions of the track will be supported by MDF lying on raisers screwed to the cross-members.

I have not decided on how exactly I will support the second level of track, but I have several approaches in mind, I just have to settle on one.

Jeff, at this point I have not given a lot of thought to wiring. I'll have to run the jumper wires down through the pieces of MDF that will be under the track, but then I'm thinking I'll run the wires along the inside of the girders. Obviously there is a lot of room under the benchwork, and a lot of freedom of where to put things.

The cross-members are designed to be moved wherever they need to be, so I want to avoid 'locking' them in place by attaching wiring to them.

You raise a good point; I'll have to think about that one.

-- Bill

Hi Bill,

Looking good so far! Will the final version be routed?

Cheers

Richard

Richard --

My eventual goal is to route an HO track. However, since I did not have an HO track of any type, I decided the shortest path to getting one was a plastic track.

After the plastic track is done, I may or may not decide to route a 1/32 hillclimb track. *Then* comes the routed HO track.

I've been following your work, and I'm glad to see that you have been successful. I've learned a lot from your tracks.

-- Bill

I used the Westcott book on benchwork back when I built my table. It's a great book. I like the fact that you've built a strong and stable table without resorting to Paul Bunyan sized megalumber that seems to be all the rage.

The only thing I would change would be to use deck screws (DeckMate brand are good) instead of drywall screws. I learned long ago that drywall screws will snap quite easily if subjected to a strong shearing force. Deck screws are softer and will deform before they snap. Not that you are going to be subjecting your table to anything that should be a problem, but I always avoid using drywall screws for anything structural.

Richard --

My eventual goal is to route an HO track. However, since I did not have an HO track of any type, I decided the shortest path to getting one was a plastic track.

After the plastic track is done, I may or may not decide to route a 1/32 hillclimb track. *Then* comes the routed HO track.

I've been following your work, and I'm glad to see that you have been successful. I've learned a lot from your tracks.

-- Bill

Yep, I can understand that - a few times I've thought 'why am I torturing myself, why don't I just lay down plastic' but sitting back and looking at what I've done, I feel good about it (even though it's not yet finished (http://neophytte.mine.nu/forum/forum.pl?fid=05&topic_id=1201760868)).

I think a 1/32nd track should be pretty easy considering the work you've already done :thumbsup:

Cheers

Richard

you've built a strong and stable table without resorting to Paul Bunyan sized megalumber

AFXToo --

I had two experiences with my previous track table that led me in this direction. My previous tables were arranged in an L-shaped configuration, which was 11x12' in size. It was the usual slotcar style construction with heavy legs, and a 1x4" frames supporting flat 3/4" plywood tops.

The first insight I had was when I was building my tables, which used 4x4s as legs. I ended up putting adjustable feet under each leg, and realized that the tables were supported only by those small circles of metal that the feet screwed into. Who needed a whole 4x4 for support, let alone the eight of them I was using?

The second insight I had was with the second track I built on that table. This track was routed, like the first, but with this one I had a lot of elevation changes and I cambered every turn of that track. It turned out that every inch of that 82' track was ABOVE the table surface; all that the table was doing was providing a place to attach the track supports to. It was also a hassle to cut through the plywood table top for power taps, lap counters, etc. So why, then did I need a flat table surface?

So there I was, with a 11x12' L-shaped table with eight 4x4 legs, and a huge expanse of 3/4" birch plywood... That were not needed.

Yes, I needed a way to support a track, but I needed legs that matched up with the size of the adjustable feet I put under them; and a way to support a track that used less lumber and was easier to work with.

I researched a number of things and finally stumbled upon model railroad style benchwork. I liked what I read about that construction approach.

It may seem ironic but my new tables are far more rigid and stable than my previous heavy-duty tables.

-- Bill

It may seem ironic but my new tables are far more rigid and stable than my previous heavy-duty tables.

Not ironic at all, it's an engineered solution.

I think benchwork is a far better way to go, and, inspired by Bill's blog, looked into the possibility of using a lightweight aluminum frame, rather than wood. A local rail roader uses this method:

http://members.westnet.com.au/mjbd/html/aluminium_framing.html

However I don't know how strong they would be if someone was leaning it to retrieve a car.

But my routed track ended up being a 2.4m x 1.2m layout, of which I had some flat sheets that matched this dimension (or, more correctly, the track was designed for the sheets I already had).

Cheers

Richard

Great looking table. I'll have to file this one away for referenceif I decide to do another layout. Keep the pix comoing. :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr

Great start! Keep us updated.:thumbsup:

CHEERS!
Tom

It's hard to believe it's been five months or so since I finished up my benchwork. In any case, I've made some progress recently, and while my track is not anywhere near ready to start racing on, it is ready enough for it's photo debut.

I'm about to secure the roadbed to the benchwork. To make sure that the roadbed in in the right places, I assembled the track to confirm fit and placement.

The benchwork is still amazingly stiff. Grab a joist and push and pull on it, trying to get the table to wiggle, and -- nothing. That table is stiff - no movement whatsoever. I can get every self supporting piece of furniture in my house to wiggle with far less effort -- including an Amish-built oak table, metal desk, etc., but the track tables will not budge.

The track is AFX -- all new as of last winter -- and I've not noticed any 15" straights that are less than acceptably straight.

The track will be held together with the new AFX track clips (http://www.toyracecars.com/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=135&osCsid=94ed07bd0863d499035e394401b835dc). I originally wasn't going to use them, but AFX dropped the price by two thirds since I started, and that moved the clips into the realm of financial possibility. They work really well. They do raise the track by about .5mm, but I can shim the cork borders up to the right height. I'm thinking about assembling the track in modules using the clips -- full straights, full curves, and then nail down the modules. Only the module joins would not be clipped together.

The borders will be cork roadbed on both sides of the track all the way around -- O gauge on the outside, and N gauge on the inside. I have plans to paint both the track and the borders, but nothing definite yet. Maybe a gray track surface, with a dry brushed layer of black to break up the long stretches of gray, and paint the cork borders green, and then dry brush them with the road surface gray, so the borders end up looking like the road surface with some grass growing in between the rocks/cracks.

The track will be landscaped in a simple manner. Not so simple as just a coat of green paint on all the flat sections, but maybe some low foam hills to add a touch of realism. I'm a 'less is more' kind of person when it comes to landscaping.

The track roadbed is 1/2" MDF, which is (or will be) supported about every 2 feet. That much support will ensure that the MDF does not sag, as commercial 1/24 scale slot tracks used the same thickness of MDF and distance between supports and they don't have problems with sagging.

As you can see, there is a significant altitude change (about 7") between the 'flat' portions of the track and the 'hillclimb' portions. Seven inches might be a bit of an overkill, but I had decided on that height to ensure that everyone -- no matter how tall -- would be able to clearly see the cars below the upper roadbed.

There is a little camber on the decent from the upper roadbed to the flats, and again in the donut. I may have to tweak the camber after I get power to the track and see how the cars handle the turns.

Enjoy the pictures, hope I have some more progress to show soon.

-- Bill

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/IMG_0080.JPG

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/IMG_0082.JPG

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/IMG_0081.JPG

Strong start ya got going there. Betcha can't wait to put some juice to it eh? Keep us updated. nd

The images are really, really small, like 100x75 pixels on a 1920x1200 screen so I can barely see them. However, from what I can barely see it looks great, with some nice elevations and transitions. I have a couple of corners with negative camber and it makes driving a little more challenging even with magnet cars. You have nothing too extreme, so I'm sure it will be a ton of fun.

AFX --

Thanks for the feedback. I figured out how I got the inline pictures in my first post, and changed my pictures to post the full picture in line, and got rid of the thumbnails.

-- Bill

Nice sweepers! :thumbsup:
Really got to do some elevation changes in my next track:)

Really good lookin build! Keep us posted.

Rich

Are the radious pieces TOMY or aftermarket 18'' rad ?

GoneGonzo

Wow, looks even better when I can really see it. Awesome job, that's about as good of a hillclimb track as I've ever seen done in HO scale. I love it. I hope you take advantage of the L-girder construction and have a contoured fascia that follows the curves of the layout. One eighth inch masonite works well for that application because it can take a fairly small radius bend. You can double it up for added strength and stability and to mate with quarter inch material on the flat parts. Curved fascia really make a track look "custom."

The openness of the construction opens up a world of possibilities for scenic elements. I would consider incorporating some sort of low voltage lighting into the overpasses to subtly illuminate the lower track sections and eliminate shadows.

You are well on your way to creating a real showpiece.

Thanks to everyone for their feedback and encouragement!

Gonzo asked about the 18" turns; they are AFX brand. I needed to buy all the track new, so I bought a Long Beach and two 'Big D' sets to get the 18" turns I needed.

With the extra space I got by stacking the two straights, I was able to fit a lot of large-radius turns in. The donut is 12/15; the sweeper is two 15/18 turns; the decreasing-radius turn is (for the outside lane) 18/18/15/15/12/12/6/6 (the only 6" radius pieces in the design). The increasing-radius turn has a 12/15 kink right before it, then the outside track is 12/15/18. The 90 before and the 180 after the donut are 9/12. It works out that the most-used turn piece was the 12", followed by the 15", 9", 18", and finally the two 6" pieces -- and I thought long and hard about using those.

AFX, I had been planning to use fascia around the roadbeds, but I had been thinking about something else for the increasing- and decreasing-radius turns. However, I like your suggestion, and will go with fascia all the way around.

I had also thought of lights under the upper level, but had made no decision about them. I think you're right, they would add to the layout.

One of the reasons I went with the hillclimb layout is because a lot of 4x16" tables end up looking really crowded when you try to fit a good-sized track into that space. By stacking the two straights, I'm able to get over 70 feet of track -- with a couple of really big, space-eating turns -- onto a 4x16 table and not have the layout look crowded. I also have a decent amount of room left on the table to work with if the track design needs tweaking.

-- Bill

Bill,

That is a great looking track man! Love the long straigts into curves and inclines and declines...yeah!

Bob...Your Nebraska neighbor...zilla

Bill,
I hate to say it but the track looks much better here than on your Palm Pilot. ;) It was great meeting you yesterday at the show and I look forward to seeing the track finished. And then maybe taking a road trip by you to test the track out once it is up and running.

Scott

Scott --

Yeah, the Palm is a little small to see the track very well -- any port in a storm! Glad you like my track. When I get it done, you're invited to come over and race, although it's a little out of your way! :rolleyes:

Bob --

How far away are you, neighbor? Like Scott, when I get the track done, you are invited to come and try it out!

-- Bill

Very impressive!!!! You're making me want to give up my trains!!! Or maybe not!!! Looks dang cool though! :thumbsup: Super job on the bench work and looks like it'll be a blast with all them big curves!!!


Joe

Scott --

Yeah, the Palm is a little small to see the track very well -- any port in a storm! Glad you like my track. When I get it done, you're invited to come over and race, although it's a little out of your way! :rolleyes:

Bob --

How far away are you, neighbor? Like Scott, when I get the track done, you are invited to come and try it out!

-- Bill

Bill,

I live in Gretna Nebraska which is only like a 15 min. drive to Omaha near Council Bluffs. Thanks for the invite...how many hours does it take to get to the Center of Iowa?

Bob...Road Trip sounds fun...zilla

Bob --

I live in Des Moines, about 2 hours east of Omaha. My house is not too far off of I-80, and is easy to find.

...Visitors? I gotta get my butt moving on the track!

-- Bill

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/IMG_0080.JPG

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/IMG_0082.JPG

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/IMG_0081.JPG

Looking great!

Cheers

Richard

hey im in c.b. can i come race on your track it looks great

John --

Track progress is slow, but I'll let you know when I get it up and running!

-- Bill

Bill,
Any news on progress of the track? Most importantly, have you gotten in any laps on the track with any of the new Mega Gs?

Scott

Scott --

With the holidays, I've not made much progress at all on my track. However, I have been working on it today. Hope to get the first laps in before I get back to work. However, we'll just have to see how life treats me!

-- Bill

are there any updates to the hill climb?

Hey Bill!! Any updates?? It's been a year!! :lol:

Sigh. Yeah, it's been a year, and I've not done much more that's visible.

I *really am* going to start spending time on it soon, it's just been a busy year.

-- Bill

I hear ya!!

Any updates?

Cheers

Richard

Great and impressive track, but it seems to be difficult to see the track on the left turns, no ?

Bump. Just in case there's any update available.

I think Bill's work here is superb. Seeing this was part of the inspiration for me to build a permanent 4-lane and majorly influenced my project.

Hope all's well, Bill!

Where in Iowa is the track at?

Central Iowa. Des Moines, I gather from an earlier post in this thread. Of course, I'm not Bill, mind you. I'm just an interested HTer who's hoping Bill's had some time and motivation to work on this beaut of a track.

If you all are interested in coming to SE Iowa racing, there will be a race on the 9th of October in Gladstone, IL. Which is about 5 minutes from Burlington.

We are running DLM T-Jet, Indy, P-Cup, and G-Jet.

www.glueside.com/wiscrs

About time for my annual bump of Bill's inspirational track. Lots of good ideas.

I think this thread's a good read for anyone thinking of building a track (and I hope lots of people are).

Enjoy,
Rolls

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/IMG_0080.JPG

Really nice looking track. REALLY NICE. Very well done, can't wait to see further updates. There sure isn't much/any slot stuff happening in DSM, is there?

Nope not a whole lot goes on here. Nobody really stocks a descent selection of stuff.