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Caught a quick picture of a certain Team KSG racers front end in Akron Ohio a week ago. Any thoughts on it.

I highly doubt it's worth the effort or the risk of it coming loose in a race, especially for flat carpet oval.

...might be interesting on a velodrome however~

Looks like hes trying to keep the brake dust down. lol lol I saw a car with the samething at the Indy Velodrome guy said it was worth a 1/10 to keep the air from coming in. I guess you believe in what you want.:thumbsup:

Eric Knapp

...I use to WHEEL DOT both the inside and outside of both the front and rear wheels at the VELO in Stock..plus a few other things (ALL Aero) but it was really a pain...and IT Never mattered cause I never could build a competitive STOCK motor.

In MOD I actually QUIT doing a lot of the AERO stuff..I found at higher speeds if it was off just a little - it could really make the car unstable. (BODY is still 'very' aero - just no more full width chassis enclosures, wheel dots, etc.)

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Caught a quick picture of a certain Team KSG racers front end in Akron Ohio a week ago. Any thoughts on it.

Well they where close but no cigar..

There trying to do this....
Here is a Nascar engine compartment of a Daytona stock car.:thumbsup:

Well they where close but no cigar..
There trying to do this....


trying to put a small block in an r/c car??? :drunk:

trying to put a small block in an r/c car??? :drunk:

HA HA!!

No, look at the top of the wheels where the panels are located for aero.:hat:

and just like real cars, drivers sometimes do stuff like that to take attention away from what they are really doing :thumbsup:

Looks as though it turns with the wheel not just a flat pannel to keep air out.

Jake:)

How about a flat surface that as the wheel turns left air hits it and adds pressure to the wheel (like a small side dam) and helps turn the car. MAYBE!!!! Was this on both front wheels or just the left front? JMHO

Might not be what it you think it is but something totally different.............

The frontend setup is a bump stop setup .. bumps or coil bind either works good ..... We have a little better way of doing it ... After nats I will post pictures SRM

Bumpstop/coil bind front ends employ the use of something like kingpin spacers (1/8 black plastic type) or smaller springs inside of your regular spring to limit suspension travel. I don't know how a piece of lexan bolted to the steering knuckle defines a bumpstop/coil bind front end?

The frontend setup is a bump stop setup .. bumps or coil bind either works good ..... We have a little better way of doing it ... After nats I will post pictures SRM

I can see how it acts as a bump stop because of the way it is cut, but if that were the purpose it wouldn't be cut into the shape of the wheel well. Not to mention the common sense way to accomplish that would be a couple 1/8 spacers on the kingpin inside of the spring.

SW have you tired the T.M. Tire Caps? Great Areo mod.

Also SW I know that you race Velo, do you use a extra large chassis that has little if any cutouts? I hear it helps add traction without adding much aero drag. I used to run a BRP rear bumper on my TC3 that I swear would add a ton of rear traction at speeds. It was kydex and had a slight kick up angle to bring it closer to the cutline of the sedan bodies. Looked like the venturies off corvetts.

SW, since you have large tracks try a thin piece of leaxn on the bottom of the motor pod to close up that hole. It may get you some more speed at the cost of slightly hotter motor.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3061/2452552290_2eb61c46cd.jpg

How about a flat surface that as the wheel turns left air hits it and adds pressure to the wheel (like a small side dam) and helps turn the car. MAYBE!!!! Was this on both front wheels or just the left front? JMHO

Bingo...Man I guess I should keep my car covered more often...wow, Im flattered by the intrigue..LMAO..and yes it moves with the upper A arm and turns with the wheel, also on both sides.

Hey rocket the weather is looking pretty good down here in FL you better hurry up..lol

While I like the idea that is being tried in the first pic, I believe that the gaps are to wide to really control air movement enough to make an aero benefit. Wheel dots do the trick well and more efficiently. The wheel dots also help more on the right side of the car, they act as a side dam especially on the right rear.

As for the solid chassis I believe they do more bad than good. For them to work well you must run rake in the car. If you run rake it will create vacuum under the car and with that vacuum comes down force. The problem is if the rear of the chassis ever drops below the front. If the track is bumpy then you also take the risk of the flying car syndrome. If the nose jumps over a bump the solid chassis catches all the air and creates lift. On an open bottom car the air passes through and gives a better chance of recovery. Every Velo car I tried to close the bottom of, would try to fly eventually. On shorter tracks the cars may not fly but I believe the car will lose grip faster with a solid chassis.....

just my .02cents

Joe Retherford

Bump stop spacers work well on the kingpins if your using large dai springs. But with the small dia springs like asc, you need to look else were for bump stops. Pete D had a cool idea to do this, and will post pics. i can also see how the lexan plates couls act as bumps stops hitting the lower A-arm but not as well. I do like the lexan for other reasons and will have to give it a try.

Mike,

There are a hundred ways to limit suspension travel....I think the point is that the lexan is being used to control air and not travel.

Bump stop spacers work well on the kingpins if your using large dai springs. But with the small dia springs like asc, you need to look else were for bump stops. Pete D had a cool idea to do this, and will post pics. i can also see how the lexan plates couls act as bumps stops hitting the lower A-arm but not as well. I do like the lexan for other reasons and will have to give it a try.

Ok, I didn't make these for any other porpuse than areo downforce..It's not supposed to be a wheel dot. There is actually a lower wicker on the bottom of the plate that was an attempt to give the front more grip. In reflect it does work as a bump stop but not very well..wasn't my intentions.
So who is Mushoo, and do I know you? And thanks for NOT asking permission to take any pic's. Jeff

SW have you tired the T.M. Tire Caps? Great Areo mod.

Also SW I know that you race Velo, do you use a extra large chassis that has little if any cutouts? I hear it helps add traction without adding much aero drag. I used to run a BRP rear bumper on my TC3 that I swear would add a ton of rear traction at speeds. It was kydex and had a slight kick up angle to bring it closer to the cutline of the sedan bodies. Looked like the venturies off corvetts.

SW, since you have large tracks try a thin piece of leaxn on the bottom of the motor pod to close up that hole. It may get you some more speed at the cost of slightly hotter motor.



I've been running T.M.s velo tires, but the way he cuts the rear wheels the caps don't work (No lip left)

I have never run a full chassis (A lot of the guys are) I use to run the DAHM's 'underbody' years ago, which was a lexan tray the fit to the bottom of the chassis and fit perfect to the body. (It was interesting)

I've also used plain, flat lexan to seal the body to the chassis (In the slower classes), but I never liked it in the faster classes...because sometimes it made things feel unstable. (Kinda like shooting a piece of paper across a table top...if it had ANY angle to it...it either STICKS to the table....or flips upside down..really quickly.

I use to use the HPI rear kicked up lower plates...TOO MUCH , and yes I've sealed the bottom of the pod w/ lexan in the past (AND have been thinking about doing it again w/ the brushless)

One of my favorite things was to leave the rear of the body intact..and using the old really light bumper foam...FILL in the rear of the body (Still do this in NASTRUCK)

SWTour

I completly understand the shooting a paper thing....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQbgSe9S54I

Look on the bright side, if flat under carriage and sealed motor pod don't help with downforce you can always just change your screen name to SWairlines.

This is the BRP #6235 - Rear Wide Ground Effects Bumper that I used on my
TC3.

http://brpracing.com/images/6235.jpg

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/b/brpc6235.jpg


http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/woi0001p?&I=BRPC6235&P=0

It would bolt to the rear and have about a 20 degee kick up and would fan out to almost the width of the car. It pretty much was a difuser/venturi to suck the car down at high speeds. It also cleaned up the dirty air around the back of the car at speeds.

I wonder if something like this could be used on the pan car pods along with the sealed bottom of the pod

The old HPI Lower pods were kind of similar. They had the kick on them and also acted as a Spur Gear protector. To me they really changed the way a car felt on the velo (I didn't like it) I use to run the WIDE version on my old GTP bodied On-Road pan car too. (I liked it on those)

Ok, I didn't make these for any other porpuse than areo downforce..It's not supposed to be a wheel dot. There is actually a lower wicker on the bottom of the plate that was an attempt to give the front more grip. In reflect it does work as a bump stop but not very well..wasn't my intentions.
So who is Mushoo, and do I know you? And thanks for NOT asking permission to take any pic's. JeffThe Big question is Jeff now that the pictures are out on the net how well does it work?
Jason

The Big question is Jeff now that the pictures are out on the net how well does it work?
Jason

Well..I did run my fastest all season with it on in 10.5 b/l. And It must actually make enough downforce to pull the body down to were it was hitting the ground, wich it never did before. So now that I tried it indoors, outdoors is the next big question and thats what I was shooting for.

Well..I did run my fastest all season with it on in 10.5 b/l. And It must actually make enough downforce to pull the body down to were it was hitting the ground, wich it never did before. So now that I tried it indoors, outdoors is the next big question and thats what I was shooting for.Thanks for answering my question and not dancing around it.

Jason

Thanks for answering my question and not dancing around it.

Jason

I got nothing to hide...Plus theres alot more in the works...hehehehe

I got nothing to hide...Plus theres alot more in the works...hehehehe

Propeller Spoked wheels? Sometimes you can not expect all four wheels to be enough when turning left.

Well..I did run my fastest all season with it on in 10.5 b/l. And It must actually make enough downforce to pull the body down to were it was hitting the ground, wich it never did before. So now that I tried it indoors, outdoors is the next big question and thats what I was shooting for.

Hi Jeff,

How can it get the body down as it seems the added lexan is attached to the steering arm? :devil:

I'm not saying this isn't a great idea ... just trying to clarify your point of view :wave:

Steve.

As I was reading I was thinking the exact same thing Steve...it would pull the tire down into the track is anything...maybe it squished the tire enough to get the body down there? My question on bump-stops, how do you keep the car high enough to pass tech and yet low enough and soft enough for the stops to do their job of getting and keeping the car on the rug? I messed with it outside on caps but there wasn't any tech so I had it basically on the ground to start with. The car did turn a TON better which actually surprised me. It was at the end of the year so I haven't messed with it anymore since then.

Hi Jeff,

How can it get the body down as it seems the added lexan is attached to the steering arm? :devil:

I'm not saying this isn't a great idea ... just trying to clarify your point of view :wave:

Steve.

Well Steve, Like I said, there was more to it than this person took the picture of..hehehe.There was three things on the car that weekend that I tried...I'll have to get a few pics and email them to you..Jeff

am i missing something in the pic of the cup car, those 2 silver panels on either side are crush panels ment to keep air and exhaust fumes out of the drivers compartment

and just like real cars, drivers sometimes do stuff like that to take attention away from what they are really doing

I can't believe you would say that about RACERS - hmmm LOLOL

am i missing something in the pic of the cup car, those 2 silver panels on either side are crush panels ment to keep air and exhaust fumes out of the drivers compartment

agreed.

I was thinking that as well about the cup car but didn't know if I was missing something, not to mention that picture is from like 95 or something....