Whats everyone think about the new class of cars coming out from BMI and CRC, 200mm wide on road cars. Looks like a good alternative to TC, easier to build and not as expensive when something breaks. Should be faster too due to the lighter weight.

You mean "old" class :) I started racing carpet with those 20 years ago. OK, maybe a bit wider then 200mm but basically the same thing.

You tell'em Hank. This is old school to Old dogs like us. :wave:

Dave Irrgang

I'm an old dog myself! Used to race the 10L's. Had one setup for onroad and one setup for oval. 235mm I think.

CRC used to have a 200mm car years ago that ran with the TCs. The name of it escapes me right now. There were a couple others out at the time also.

Think Hyperdrive had a 200mm one too a few years back.

Here's a link, I think that is a 200mm car ---> http://www.hyperdriveracing.com/10scale/4500.cfm

Everything old is new again.... at some point. lol

http://www.redrc.net/?s=pro10&searchbutton=Go

I wondered years ago when 4-cell oval became popular why people didn't move to Pro10 since it would be cheaper and faster then TC.

I think it's cool , I for 1 miss running the 1/10 pan cars on road course.6 cells and direct drive make even a stock motor fast as poop!!

They really were faster than TC and didn't take much to get the setup right. Not many parts make it cheap to fix and alot less complicated than TC's. Used to run with 6 cells usually 1400 or 1700 nicad packs. Imagine how much faster they would be now with brushless motors and 4600mah or even a 2S lipo. The fun has returned!!!!!!!!

4-cell NiMH 4600's would be fastenough!!! Just look at your oval and 1:12 cars.

An extra two cells would just be more tire wear, more weight more series resistance, and more speed. How fast do we need to go in a stock motors class. In modified, I say leave it open to 6-cells/LiPO becuase if someone can handle the speed let them have it.

The only way I would run 6-cell would if they were Sub-C LiFePO4.

The BMI10R car is on my birthday wishlist....just a month and half away...hope I get lucky. If not I'll be selling my sedans to buy one

I go rapidly through this tread and it reminds me of something. At a certain time there was a similar chassis that was, in fact, a Touring version of AE's L3 oval car. Never knew if this one was dropped because it was unpopular or simply lack of interest.
Anyway if there ever was a chassis I'd like to design it's one like these, to do both on-road and oval with the same car.

Hank - I did try several times in our Florida series to get 1/10 pan cars going again. It did not catch on.Now I tried it with one of our other classes and the two of us trying it now don't race in the series. It will pick up again as everything runs in cycles and I'm tired of the TC cars.
By the way the Hyperdrive 200mm was okay- there were two of them racing before the class died.It needed some updating but we could not get that done at the time.

Whats everyone think about the new class of cars coming out from BMI and CRC, 200mm wide on road cars. Looks like a good alternative to TC, easier to build and not as expensive when something breaks. Should be faster too due to the lighter weight.



light is better!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol but batts..... are still heavy?

Do what Trailranger sugggested and go with 4 cell.

RCGT10

well, the cars are lighter. Since there are two less Sub-C cells that would put the cars about 150grams lighter at the start.

Acording to the ROAR 2008 rules, 1:10 pan cars have a 1200 gram min weight and the 1:10 seadans(Rubber) 1525g.

If you want lighter batts, there are Sub-C cells that weight 38g! not the Current 72g for NiMH 4600's.

I used to run that car back in the day, I also ran a old lynx road course.

Back when TC3 was the car I narrowed my HPI Roadstar to 200mm. It was more than equal in speed and handling. Guess I could dust it off if the class starts up.

We didn't call them the PRO 10's, we just called them road coarse pan cars...I still have my L2 and now with our Lipo in saddle packs and brushless motors I just might have to break it out and go run some big track up at SVM in the valley....

Pan Cars RULE!

Ain't that right Dave I.:woohoo:

Hey Trailranger, who makes these 38g sub c's you mentioned. Whats the mah on them.

Donn,
You are right!!!!
I ran an Associated wide onroad (10L) car for many years.:thumbsup:

Dave

T4Mania, I'm not sure who makes the cells. I bought them from a canada hobby store. I think the cells are extras from Ryobi' New Lithium Line.

Capacity is 950mah, but don't laugh. The voltage is 3.2V so these cells have 3.02 w/h of power. A 3300 NiMH as only 3.9 w/h of power. These are just first generation cells so it would be expect they are on the low side. So far I have like the cells to play around with and no worries about fire or explosion

Anyone thinking of getting one of these cars they are cheaper than a TC if you're into onroad and faster too.

I have a question for you guys, how would a pro 10 car like crc's new gen -x 10 work on an oval track? since the car is made to go left and right, would it have problems or could you tune it to compete?

My personnel opinion is if your racing oval get a oval car. You can race it but the oval car will be better.Now if you want to race both go for it as it will take alot of work between heats to correct going from oval to road course and back again.

If all things were equal and everyone was running a road course car on an oval track it would be fine. But you can never make a road course car be as fast through the corners as a well setup oval car. I would expect to be a few laps off the pace if I was running a road course car on on oval.

Now having said that any car can race an oval with a decent setup and a good set of tires - normally the RF tire is a harder/different compound that the LF. Rears can be the same, but depending on the class many oval racers use different compound rears as well.

I would recommend to anyone wanting to run both to have 2 cars - 1 for oval and 1 for road racing. A used Associated 10L3O or 10L4O can be found cheap and are a good starting point for oval racing.

Thank you guys for the info. the reason why I asked is that our 12th scale oval class is dominated by a pair of roadcourse cars! the oval cars just can't handle like the roadcourse cars on oval. Is this just a 12th scale thing?

Sounds like a set up thing. Like was stated before an oval car should be better on an oval.