Bill liked the terminal track conversion so much I thought I'd post a few more (crappy) pics and a few shots of the driver stations:

Re-post:

I converted my terminal tracks to drop tap quick disconnects...

Pretty easy....snap the bottom off...CAREFULLY...

This exposes the blades for the plug ins...and the power jumper...

Now....after removing the jumper....flip the track over...and you can simply use a razor knife to score the edge of the track and after a few passes you slice right through the side block...

This leaves you THREE terminals that readily accept #14 female spade connectors...

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_098.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/28013)

One for each lane and one that ties the other two rails together...(negative on stock tomy)

Now..you have to snip a little plastic rib here and there to get to the spot where you separate the two formally negative connections...(the feeder that ties two rails together..

Once you snip this in half...now you have FOUR terminals....one for each rail...

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_097.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/28012)

Again..you have to be really gentle so you dont break the factory weld from the rail to the feeder....but it can be done..

The female spade connector slides right on the steel track feeders...but you need to slightly crimp the connector to make it fit nice and snug...

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_099.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/28015)

There isnt one soldered joint on my layout..

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_090.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/27762)

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_091.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/27763)

Driver stations:

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_111.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/28014)

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_114.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/28016)

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_119.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/28017)

Where did you get the coiled cord for the controller? I need 4 of them.

I was also already thinking of using 120v outlets in driver's stations and adding a dimmer switch to turn on/off adjustable brakes.

Eh...the cord was allready on the box that a fellow racer lent me...

Old monitor cords work well...if you are using the outlet set up..:thumbsup:

The coiled controller cord was from The Shack. It was a CB Radio mic cord. I don't know if they still have them or not.

I really liked the coiled cord idea but the four wires inside are pretty tiny--somewhere south of 22g. For low power cars it was okay, but I felt there wasn't enough juice moving through it.

When Crimnick needed some adjustability we resurrected it, even though it's not ideal. I know there are some regular coiled extension cords available now, and I'd probably use that today instead, if I were to do it again and only needed three wires.

Did a bit of net crawling and found these:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3AY42

A bit pricy eh?

Then these:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/CB-344/125/5-PIN_DIN_EXTENSION_COIL_CORD,_BEIGE_.html

They have 5-pin DIN sockets there too and the cord looks heavier than a phone handset cord. There is a bunch of other possibilities there too. (looks like I'm filling a cart there).

Also found coiled cables with 3-conductor 18 GA wire. $25-$30 + shipping range for 10 ft chunks

The coiled controller cord was from The Shack. It was a CB Radio mic cord. I don't know if they still have them or not.

I really liked the coiled cord idea but the four wires inside are pretty tiny--somewhere south of 22g. For low power cars it was okay, but I felt there wasn't enough juice moving through it.

When Crimnick needed some adjustability we resurrected it, even though it's not ideal. I know there are some regular coiled extension cords available now, and I'd probably use that today instead, if I were to do it again and only needed three wires.

You know....I havent won a race since...

Hmmmmm....;)

Again..you have to be really gentle so you dont break the factory weld from the rail to the feeder....but it can be done..


I was going to do this with Tyco/Mattel terminal tracks. I had one which was junk, so I decided to see how they connected the metal strip to the rail. It isn't a welded/soldered joint, but rather just looks like they stamped it down and hoped it would somehow crimp around the rail.

After seeing just how flimsy the connection to the rail was, I decided to go with the soldered wire approach. It's too bad, I had a lot of terminal tracks I could have converted. I was hoping the connection to the rail was solid.

Joe

I was going to do this with Tyco/Mattel terminal tracks. I had one which was junk, so I decided to see how they connected the metal strip to the rail. It isn't a welded/soldered joint, but rather just looks like they stamped it down and hoped it would somehow crimp around the rail.

After seeing just how flimsy the connection to the rail was, I decided to go with the soldered wire approach. It's too bad, I had a lot of terminal tracks I could have converted. I was hoping the connection to the rail was solid.

Joe

Actually Joe....if you look very carefully....you'll see that the rail has a tiny spot weld on it...:cool:

press two pieces...apply current....

The key search word here is "retractile."

If you search for retractile power cords you should find several that fit the bill, some with heavier gauge wire.

e.g.:

http://www.alphawire.com/pages_old/309.cfm
http://daburn.thomasnet.com/viewitems/cable-retractile-cords/retractile-power-cords?&forward=1

Why is the price a secret? Even a "list" price would at least serve as a indication if it is worth while to look for a retailer.

It's done for now anyway. allelectronics.com has all manner of neat and hard to find elsewhere stuff. :)

I think you've used some innovative ideas in your design, but I have to ask: Do you have children? That wall outlet idea for controller hook ups seems pretty dangerous for kids. I envision a child taking the controller and plugging it into a 110v wall outlet in the house. :eek:

For those with "wee'uns" saftey concerns you could always go with a three blade twist lock connector. Good luck trying to plug one of those into a standard house hold recepticle!

The twist lock comes in smaller more slot friendly sizes as well.

Slott V, You are very correct about the household outlets!!! Years ago my son was probably around 5 or 6 playing in the basement. He had seen Dad plug in, so he decided to plug in too. He had a screwdriver in one slot and was going for the other slot with a nail. Talk about a scary sight!!! This may be harsh to a few of you, but, I took an old extension cord, cut the end off an exposed the wires, and let him hold one of the bare wires in his hand. I told him would shock him, but he needed to know about the plugs. So with a scared look on his face, and mine too, I plugged the extension cord in, then I touched his other hand with the other bare wire I was holding. A quick jump, a silent pause, then a cry, a big hug, problem solved!!! I also took thin 2 single strands of each wire, twisted them together, and let him watch as I plugged it in. A quick spark and pop sealed the deal. If you have little ones, it may be worth trying, especially too save a burn or a life!!! Please don't fuss at me...RM

Slott V, You are very correct about the household outlets!!! Years ago my son was probably around 5 or 6 playing in the basement. He had seen Dad plug in, so he decided to plug in too. He had a screwdriver in one slot and was going for the other slot with a nail. Talk about a scary sight!!! This may be harsh to a few of you, but, I took an old extension cord, cut the end off an exposed the wires, and let him hold one of the bare wires in his hand. I told him would shock him, but he needed to know about the plugs. So with a scared look on his face, and mine too, I plugged the extension cord in, then I touched his other hand with the other bare wire I was holding. A quick jump, a silent pause, then a cry, a big hug, problem solved!!! I also took thin 2 single strands of each wire, twisted them together, and let him watch as I plugged it in. A quick spark and pop sealed the deal. If you have little ones, it may be worth trying, especially too save a burn or a life!!! Please don't fuss at me...RM

RM, that more than harsh. That's child abuse. If I typed what I really felt, this thread would get closed and I'd get a vacation.
I've got two children myself and NEVER once though that electrocuting either one of them would be a good "lesson".

I can only imagine how you "taught" him that fire was hot.

RM, that more than harsh. That's child abuse. If I typed what I really felt, this thread would get closed and I'd get a vacation.
I've got two children myself and NEVER once though that electrocuting either one of them would be a good "lesson".

I can only imagine how you "taught" him that fire was hot.

Here we go!!!:rolleyes:

I'll take the safety aspects of the standard 3 hole receptacle over having three steel posts sticking out of my driver stations. It would be much more difficult for an unsupervised child to manipulate harmful items into the female receptacle than to grab hold of two male posts less than an inch apart.

As far as plugging a controller with a three prong plug into a 120 wall outlet; its possible that it could happen, but all my mine have an inline fuse that would save both the controller and anyone holding it.

The key to safety with children and slot cars is supervision and education. I don't allow anyone, regardless of age or intelligence, to be around my race track un-supervised--period. And when I'm not racing the controllers are put up and away and the power to the track is off and the switch is locked.

We've been racing for over 25 years using these controller hookups with NO mishaps and I've raised two kids and have a two year old grandson.

When you build your track you are responsible for the safety aspects of the entire setup, from driver's stations to sharp table edges, to protruding pipes and such around the track table area. I agree with Steve that pokey posts are worse than a captive plug arrangement, but as an electrical engineer I also agree with Scott that using a standard 120VAC receptacle is fundamentally wrong on sooooo many levels. But the Amsra group has a long history of running a successful, friendly race program and as long as they are willing to police their tracks and track usage and don't mind wiring up controllers that can't travel well to non-Amsra tracks then I'm more than willing to look beyond the obvious issues. After all, they do provide adapters for visiting drivers to connect up using alligator clips. Their setup obviously works for them, which is cool, but I would not advise using a similar arrangement on your track unless you are willing to accept the responsibility for and provide safety measures to the same degree of integrity that the Amsra group has put in place in their successful race program.

It's a personal decision, so do what works best for you.

Wait till I hook 220 to the track;)

MUWHAHAHAHAHAHAH!

My reply wasn't meant to start the well-worn debate over post terminals. Although I do agree an enclosed controller hook up is safer in terms of protecting your controllers.

My coments were more aimed at personal safety. As a little tike, I myself took my uncles Erector Set motor and incorrectly plugged it into a wall outlet under the kitchen table after watching him do it. I still remember the flash in my face.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~
I'll take the safety aspects of the standard 3 hole receptacle over having three steel posts sticking out of my driver stations. It would be much more difficult for an unsupervised child to manipulate harmful items into the female receptacle than to grab hold of two male posts less than an inch apart.


On the 3 standard alligator posts; you're only dealing with 12-18 vDC and less than 10 amps. (-presuming you are using a PS and not batteries in your home.) 10 amps DC is a lot different than Alternating Current. I can put my fingers on those posts all day without a problem. If you short the red and white terminals with something metal you will only blow a fuse.

-Scott

snip.....On the 3 standard alligator posts; you're only dealing with 12-18 vDC and less than 10 amps. (-presuming you are using a PS and not batteries in your home.) 10 amps DC is a lot different than Alternating Current. I can put my fingers on those posts all day without a problem. If you short the red and white terminals with something metal you will only blow a fuse.

-Scott

At last! ....The voice of reason. Bless you.

The main ingredient of shock is current, whether delivered in AC or DC form either can be deadly at values much lower than you think. At around 90 milliamps DC (or about 25 milliamps AC) a full grown man will lose muscle control and be unable to release the shocking source. That's one third of what a Tomy wall wart can deliver. A shock delivering 300 milliamps (the full capacity of a wall wart) to the body can easily be lethal. The big mitigating factor of course is skin resistance, which tends to keep current levels far, far below the deadly values. Of note, thresholds for women and children are significantly lower than for men.

My apologies for upsetting you twolff. I believe you went a little overboard with the electrocution and the child abuse statements. A severe burn or loss of a hand would outweigh a slight tingle in my opinion anyday. Most parents I've known will agree that kids will experiment on things themselves when you least expect it, no matter how much you have tried to teach them. It's like touching a "wet paint" sign. But If you trust your kids and their friends, when they come over to visit, to do and obey everything you say, then congratulations to you, I wish I could live in your perfect world. The child abuse to me, is creating a device that can be dangerous to others, no matter how much confidence you have with your teachings. Again guys, the outlet plug is a great idea, but can be a dangerous idea. The plug outlet idea just reminded of an event that had happened to me. To all I may have offened or upset with my story, I apologize. RM

P.S. I know there are pros and cons to any hook up method. That's why Crayola makes the big box of colors. Here's an idea I had posted some time ago, that might work for some of you, just in case you missed it. To help with short outs, take a small parts bin box, cut out one end, and put it around your posts. RM

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/kwikdeals/DSC02339.jpg

Sheesh..it's not like I'm an actual licensed electrician or anything like that...:rolleyes:

But since we're going there anyways.....I'll repost the disclaimer:

If you have small children who are apt to stick things into other things (like electrical outlets) against the previous instruction from an adult, for no obvious reason... OR.....you regularly have friends over who qualify for their own 12 step program...

You may not want to use a standard 115v rated residential outlet as a female socket for your controller.

Stupid drunk people, ignorant children, or your mother in law might actually be dumb enough to, all of the sudden, , without warning, out of the blue,outside your supervision,in your own home, go in the basement, remove a controller from the slotcar track, go to the nearest 115v outlet...and plug it in...

I know, I know...

How does one go about taking out extra life insurance on such a person without raising suspicion...sorry...cant help ya there...

All I can say is...this person is working overtime on a short life span....dont let yourself become liable...

I'm going to be blunt here...(as if I havent been)..

If you have stupid kids...dont use this set up...also..you may want to remove all sharp objects from your home,remove your stove,take the fridge door off, and get rid of any power tools, cords,silver ware, or gas powered impliments you may own.....if you own a gun..throw it in the river.....invest in a hockey outfit..buy lots of nerf foam...and hope for the best....

For the rest of you....if your kid can grasp the concept of DONT TOUCH THE HOT STOVE..or DAD's STUFF...then you will be fine.

Really...at some point we must stop conforming to the least common denominator...or we will ALL be treated as such.

Welcome to Crimnicks "Little House of Horrors"! :)

Entry permitted after breathalyzer test, IQ test, and results of an in-depth genealogical survey (to confirm you do not have a son or daughter in-law).

You ahve been warned: Death and injury await your ignorant mistakes.

With that out of the way, have fun!

"You can't touch this" MC-Hammer

http://www.sfc2.net/forums/images/smiles/asthanos.gif

Anyone had any success removing the graphics from the Tomy terminal track pieces?

Havent tried yet..

[QUOTE=Crimnick;2359716]Bill liked the terminal track conversion so much I thought I'd post a few more (crappy) pics and a few shots of the driver stations:

Re-post:

I converted my terminal tracks to drop tap quick disconnects...

Pretty easy....snap the bottom off...CAREFULLY...

This exposes the blades for the plug ins...and the power jumper...

Now....after removing the jumper....flip the track over...and you can simply use a razor knife to score the edge of the track and after a few passes you slice right through the side block...

This leaves you THREE terminals that readily accept #14 female spade connectors...

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_098.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/28013)

One for each lane and one that ties the other two rails together...(negative on stock tomy)

Now..you have to snip a little plastic rib here and there to get to the spot where you separate the two formally negative connections...(the feeder that ties two rails together..

Once you snip this in half...now you have FOUR terminals....one for each rail...

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_097.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/28012)

Again..you have to be really gentle so you dont break the factory weld from the rail to the feeder....but it can be done..

The female spade connector slides right on the steel track feeders...but you need to slightly crimp the connector to make it fit nice and snug...

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_099.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/28015)

There isnt one soldered joint on my layout..

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_090.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/27762)

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/thumbs/Walkers_glen_091.jpg (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/27763)

QUOTE]

Great idea, can you send me a more detailed copy of how you did the terminals.....yobear42@yahoo.com

Cool

Yo!

Great idea, can you send me a more detailed copy of how you did the terminals.....yobear42@yahoo.com

Cool

Yo!


Dont really have much more that wasnt said...the thing is to just be really gentle while taking it apart and when cutting the rail feeders...

As a recap...

Gently remove the bottom terminal cover..

use a good razor knife to saparate the side plastic...

Be very carful when cutting the rail common feeder and when bending the feeders...

Slightly crimp the female spade connectors so they bite good...

After you do one it's pretty easy...but I still broke the factory weld on two connections and had to sandwich a new terminal next to the rail...:cool:

I'm shocked to see how amped up everyone is about this. Well, I used 110 outlet plugs for my track. Larry used them on his, but he had a great idea about it. He placed the drivers stations near each corner of the 4 x 16 rectangular layout. At each drivers station, you have a plug for each lane. For four racers, you can set your boxes up in one place, race and corner marshal in one spot all night. It's a great setup that we have used for years, with no electrical accidents. But then again, down here it's legal to carry a gun, go hunting, drive an old car, and all kinds of crazy stuff. Some people don't have electricity. Maybe we should have a license for driving a slot car and register all our controllers.

Shocked Rich :woohoo:

www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars:thumbsup: