I have an old 1970 Matchbox Superfast model, #15 Volkswagen Sedan with a loose rivet. The base is held on with just one rivet in the rear. On most examples of this model, you can easily pry off the base from the rear without having to drill out the rivet, because the rivet tower is just barely folded over the base. On most examples, the rivet is just a tight fit along the shaft.

But now that I have replaced a damaged wheel, I am ready to reassemble it. The base will snap back on over the original rivet, but it's loose. So now I am trying to find a way to tighten the original rivet tower. The hole is about 3/32-inch in diameter. I don't have a rivet gun or any snap-ring pliers, so I was wondering if any of you have those tools and any ideas how to re-tighten a loose original rivet.

For example, do you have any external snap-ring pliers with tips that would fit into a 3/32-inch hole? Or are there any needle-nose pliers with pointed rounded ends that would fit into the rivet hole, such that I could pull on the handles outward and tighten the rivet from side to side? Or is there any way to use a rivet gun and a used shank to tighten it? (I don't have a rivet gun but have only looked at a few at the store.)

I do not want to use a flat-bladed screwdriver, because it ends up mashing the edges of the rivet and does not push the base downward onto the body all the way and it destroys the original look of the rivet which I want to maintain. I already tried the screwdriver technique on another example to no avail and I have an original mint condition model ready for its base.

Any ideas?

Thanks a bunch!
John

center punch it

I already tried using several different sized center punches on my beater example #15 VW. All that did was put a lump in the metal over the engine hood. For some reason a center punch will not shove the metal from side to side.

I also tried pressing on the sides using a small center punch, but I can't get enough force to bend the metal. The VW's baseplate remains loose.

That is why I thought snap ring pliers might work, but I don't want to spend a bunch of money only to find they won't work. So if anybody has a pair and can test it out on any diecast rivet that is about 3/32-inch or thereabouts, that would be super!

But I also wonder about a rivet gun. How do they work? Can a used rivet shank be forced into the rivet tower on this VW or on any Hot Wheel?

Does anybody on this board have a pair of small snap ring pliers? ? ? ? ? ?

Are you talking about pliers for putting circlips back into the sides of pistons??

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/NewMOFOMidnightRacingFuelWebSigcopy.jpg

They are also called retaining ring pliers. Many mechanical devices have little rings with two holes where they join together that hold various parts together. You use snap-ring pliers to remove & install these rings. Visit www.Micro-tools.com and look at item #32695 for an example.
http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=32695

I don't know how strong those little tips are. Nor do I know if they are small enough to fit down into a rivet tower on an old Matchbox diecast and apply pressure from side to side.

What kind of tool or machine was (is) used to rivet together diecast cars and is there any way we could make one?

:confused:

John

John,
We used the type of pliers I'm talking about to place circlips into pistons for retaining the wrist pins.

Factory HW's and MBoxs are not riveted together so much as they are bound together under pressure.
A post inside the casting is simply spread out over the oustside of the base.

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/NewMOFOMidnightRacingFuelWebSigcopy.jpg

Check out the handtool section of Tandy Leather,you might be able to find something there that will work.
If your trying to do what I think you are...maybe one of these rivet setter tools will work,if not,maybe another tool found on their site will work...here's a link


http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/products.asp?dept=208

good luck,hope you figure something out :)

Hello triple20,
I'll take a look a Tandy Leather. I will also visit a local tool store soon and carefully examine their snap-ring pliers. I might also be able to use some needlenose pliers with a superfine tip. Saw one at Amazon.com with both tips combined measuring 0.06" diameter (a little less than 1/16-inch), but it costs about $40.

---
John

A drop of epoxy glue and a small clamp holding the base to the body till it dries has always left me happiest.

Trying to re-swedge the post is 'iffy', risk getting a loose fit at best and the 'bulge' through the body at worst. I've also tried drilling/tapping/screwing but was a more trouble that it was worth too (unless it was a model I had to get back into).