Again Mr. Bill amazes me with his work. The olive Toronado that Bill repaired for me is very sweet. One of my pride and joys. Keep up the good work and thanks again for the Torno fix. :) :thumbsup::thumbsup:

I am liking what I am seeing, Bill!
Question is, how did you get Gus to give up so many of his goop secrets?
Oh, and if he didn't give up any secrets, then he is doing the work himself...but how does he hold the tiny tools.....unless he is a polydactyl (extra toes, usually thumbs for you non-cat guys).....something is starting to smell like kitty litter around here.....:D

I can't believe I just sounded like bob...gonna make joe P hiself w/funnies...zilla! LOL

ok...it was funnier in my head.

Great builds, Bill! I have a whole bunch of goop notes now! Woot!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04814.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04812.jpg

Finally got the lighting working correctly in my Lincoln! Courtesy of the slot Car Mans care package. So take a bow Joe!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04805.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04806.jpg

Joe sent a box of goodies. Here's what happened in the hardware department.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04834.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04835.jpg

Although Joe had sent some fiber optic samples as well Their diameters wouldnt get under the hood of the lincoln. Orginally she was rigged using filaments from an old hippie lamp and acrylic for headlamp lenses. In this case we went for the sealed beam look.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04829.jpg

Dawn and dusk pics where snapped just fer giggles during testing. Testing was done using a hundred watt incandescent in my bench lamp. This was done to maintain a base line....cuz if it looked good with a bulb it could only get better fired by an LED!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04830.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04833.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04820.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04826.jpg

Shown below is the modified LED. The emitter/ lens was bucked of by two thirds and off the rack shrink tubing was used as a shroud.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04836.jpg

There's more... pics to load so please bear with me on the remainder.:o

Many thanx Joe. I owe you large!

:woohoo: I dang near died when I saw them head lights!!!! I can't stop shaking!!!! It looks awesome!!! So glad I could help Bill!!!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Way cool!!!! :cool:

Looks frickin awesome man!!! :thumbsup:

Wes

Looks frickin awesome man!!! :thumbsup:

Wes

What Wes said...

Bob...If I were you sleep tonight would be impossible...zilla

Educational and neat at the same time. Not like high school... Keep up the sweetness, Bill. :thumbsup:

Ya what Bob Said....

Sweet, Bill. Lemme guess: This was inspired by the Hollywood Knights car, right?

Sweet, Bill. Lemme guess: This was inspired by the Hollywood Knights car, right?

Naw Jeeper, could have been but this one was actually inspired by a little old couple I knew that had a '47 Lincoln convertible that I de-mothballed for them. :)


Callin' this one done. Had some fun running it around and tossed it in the box for now ... time to move along and lick my wounds. Here's the final bits of the 411 on the lighting.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04836-1.jpg

A close up of the shrink tubing shroud. This limits that annoying rudolph effect that all conventionally lit cars have.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04837-1.jpg

The little shroud also doubles as the index point for the optics manifold seen here in it's initial constrction. It's just plastruct stock.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04838.jpg

By using four holes this allows the manifold to slide down the optic bundle ...but it wont slip back like a single larger center hole. This helps locate and keep the optic manifold's position on the body relative to the location of the LED and shroud....other wise it goes SPROING!...and pops back down the bundle. :freak:

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04839.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04840.jpg

Here it is ...more or less in position. The bundle is straightened up and a dab of clear silicone is used to secure the manifold to the inside of the body. The sili holds the location but allows some wiggle when fitting the body.

An excellent example of emitter engineering!!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: But I surely hope it's future isn't sittin' in a box.... "Callin' this one done. Had some fun running it around and tossed it in the box for now ..." :eek: (Unless of course "in the box" is a good thing!!) She needs to be drivin up Grapevine Hill!!!! Any plans for a Cadillac sedan??? :woohoo: As small a contribution as it was, sooo glad I could help Bill!!! :thumbsup:

Engineering at it's best!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup: RM

Thought this was kinda funny..in a twisted kinda way.. It drags a bit but what documentary didn't in the 60's and 70's!! There's gotta be a curse with yellow Lincolns..at least on the first attempt!!! I hope he recovered from his injuries....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLsVWFGO7aQ



Joe

"Tossing it in the box"

Simply a figure of speech Joe. I fill up old school pit kits with my builds Joe. Keeps them safe and somewhat organized.

Periodically I say screw it, shut down operations and run a few boxes of cars around in a feeble attemt to make some sense of why I build little cars...oh yeah...fer the fun of it!

Thought this was kinda funny..in a twisted kinda way.. It drags a bit but what documentary didn't in the 60's and 70's!! There's gotta be a curse with yellow Lincolns..at least on the first attempt!!! I hope he recovered from his injuries....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLsVWFGO7aQ



Joe

What a shame, it looked like he had it licked. if it were a little more aerodynamic it might have worked. The car justs falls apart from all the air. I was suprised he made it up the ramp so well that was half the battle. Try a plane next time dude!

I remember Ken Powers from when I was a Kid, I also recall the Charger he had to originally to do that Jump..And Just like Evil that jump was a crock of crap.. that car di not come apart it had explosive bolts to reduce drag on the chutes he pulled his chute at the top of the ramp.. He did recover and was killed a few years later doing fair jumps a real short one too if I am not mistaken like 5-10 cars..I got to meet him at the CNE in Toronto when I was a kid. the charger was a really cool looking if I recall but I was like 11 or so so everything was cool back then...


Dave

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yji-Dwaaexc

Nice find Coach....loololollololololololololollolol that is funny! :lol: The model car worked just the same...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04874.jpg

Now that the pillars have set up a little, we can start thinking about some seam detail. The Toronado appears tricky but it's really not. Here's THE most important tool required. It's a #2 blade with the tip snapped off. If you cut enough styrene or nylatron you'll have plenty of these around. Fine seams are done with a fresh sharp blade, but I have yet to see the t-jet seam that is so fine ... we use the former around here.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04875.jpg

The blade is used as a gouge to gradually re-establish seam lines. The technique is identical to using a wood plane. Take light passes, stay straight, and periodically work from either end. Note: Excess material should curl up and out of the seam.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04880.jpg

After the lines are roughed in the pillars get knocked down with the file to remove all the fuzzies and contour the exterior profile down into the body. You obviously have built it out and away from the body with material so it's time to move the outside edge more in line with the side windows and windsheild frame.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04873.jpg

This pic is fudged: however it is relevant in that it shows what is used to drag the seam lines clean after filing. Providing one selects the right pick it will also soften the sharp 90 degree edge created by the blade. The idea here is to make sure that the seam trough has equal depth relative to the reprofiled surface. Also helps to widen the seam from the narrower blade width that it was cut with.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04886.jpg

Now that the fuzz is dragged out of the seams, the magic of testors is demonstrated in the next two frames. A drop of testors is distributed equally across the repair are with a #000 brush and allowed activate the plastic.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04882.jpg

It's hard to tell the difference here. Another drop of testors is applied after a minute or two and the area is stroked carefully with the brush. This helps to redistribute plastic and smooth things down. A straightening of the edges and the bottom of the trough as it were. Note that there is less scuzz in the trough between the two pics.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04887.jpg

Screwed this pic up too...wrong side! LOL. First pass is basically completed. Obviously the pillars are still a bit noodled (not straight!). Both sides get refloated to provide enough material to work with. Really the first part of pillars is building a template to work off of.

More to follow. ;)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04888.jpg

That last float over the pillars was thinned a bit. Naturally after all that fidgeting, picking, and filing ya dont want to just clod more filler on indescrimminently. The goop is thinned right in the lid of the jar. A drop of base goop in the lid if there isnt some there already...LOL...then add drops of solvent to it a mix it together. It should just adhere to the brush with out running off... just short of "runny". If you peak ahead you'll see that the thinned mixture here appears milky, lighter in color, when compared to the full strength material used below. That's how I know it's mixed just about right.

Care should be taken to position the work piece horizontally so that the fresh float doesnt run away into the cowl vent or down the door seams. Doesnt take long to set/flash though so ya generally can just hold it in yer hand for a minute till it sets. The REASON it is thinned will be evident after curing. It will shrink down into the pillar contours after a few days. :thumbsup:

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04889.jpg

So just before we walk away lets add some more material to those cut wells. Not a bad time to float a pass over the inside of the pillars as well. In this case full strength goop is used on the wells. HOWEVER! Ya DONT hog it on here! Just a nice easy medium pass with the brush. Too thick and the outgassing will pinhole the repair area making extra work cuz you'll have to cut it back and redo it to eradicate the pinholes. Thinned material is used on the backside of the pillars. Again the idea is a patient, careful, layering of material.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04869.jpg

Here's something from last years black box program. Tiny and hard to see but it is a projector style streetrod headlamp bucket that was developed in the skunk works.

They are constructed from some ovular plastic beads from the "U can build cheesey jewlery dept" at Wally World. I just roll my blade over them gently until they cut through neatly. Be extra bitchin' if I can find some in a silver plated look.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04864.jpg


Here's the secret part. A close up of the projector lens machined from acrylic stick. Kinda crude....

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04860.jpg

...but works great! Go figure.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04856.jpg

This years new years resolution requires that I complete all my incompletes. The "You Must be High Boy" cured out kinda crappy and was tossed aside in disgust long ago. For some reason the finish was kinda funhouse mirror looking with some pocking in the roof. Obviously! ...all the white spots were high. Now that I've done more styrene spraying I realize that the body hadnt cured out fully and when the topcoat was applied things got loose due to the high solvent content....or god forbid she wasnt straight to start with. I didnt really care for the grill shell either. It was the original prototype for the hotrod grill modification so she always was a changling anyway. Seen here after some restyling in mid block.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04857.jpg

The grill shell opening has been widened and a seam detail has been added where it meets the hood. The wire mesh grill was deleted and an internal slot was sculpted to accept the new detailed grill which was cut from an AFX semi grill. The shell was also pushed back some from it's original position that looked too long ....might be able to squeeze back another mm or two yet. A little more crown was added to the tophood with a more defined peak as well. I'm gradually warming up to it. The front spindles will be reworked too. Time has passed and of course I found a better way to do stub axles...fortunately I left plenty of meat in this early attempt.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04862.jpg

So here's the plan...sorta. The rear tail lights are a no brainer. I would like to mount the lamps to the brass prosthetic in the correct/period manner however that would mean that body, optics, and brass front end would all be a tangly mess. Not something I'm excited about on doing. LOL!

The Olds is shaping up really good!!! :thumbsup: The projector headlights look like they're going to be a challenge, but I'm sure you'll get her done!! It looks like you might have a little bit more room to play with under this hood, at least in the nose... Keep up the great work and if you need any help let me know!! :wave:

This is facinating work you guys are doing. thanks tons for sharing it with us.. Boys its nice to log on from home so I can see pics..lol.. awesome work...when I get up there is years I may come back and attempt it myself.. hehehee,

Bill,

Love the old High Boys! This thing is gonna shine Big Time. :):)

Bob...green post maker you are...zilla

Glad to see you guys doing the lighting R & D work!!! It's time for some night cruizing!!! I guess I'll just have to use the switch on the wall for now, but one of these days!!! Great work guys!!! RM

Bill- Looks good on the toronado. I ordered a dental pick ans some flat files to improve my detail work. I'll be interested to see how you take the waviness out of the right window post. The thinning tip is also much appreciated. I suffer from more is better and glob the goop generously sometimes!
Jim

Really impressive insight on the lamp buckets, Bill! I never would have thought of it... but as soon as I saw one, I knew what you had done. I laughed out loud at the simplicity!
Good-on-ya, my friend! :thumbsup:

Yes Joe it was pretty haha on my end too Joez...almost moron proof. They are the perfect accessory for the highboy if my luck continues. Currently re-working the front axle assembly to accept a head lamp mounting bracket.

I want a cat avitar too. Meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeow!

Joez and Bill you guys are like talking cats...lol

Seeing you post back to back with cats just struck me funny tonight for some reason. Guess I just need a laugh...HAHAHAHAHAHA

Bob...feel great now...zilla

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04905.jpg

After the finger poke test to see if the pillar is firmed up, the fine point of a round file is used to further level the seam trough and round the edges of the raised portion.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04925.jpg

After a quick blast with the file the pass side reveals some low areas in the raised portion and some high areas in the trough

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04922.jpg

The trough is cleaned with the gouge again. Like the roughing blade in the first steps it is PUSHED through not pulled! Just push and fidget it along in little increments until it slides through with no resistence. Check and keep the angle of attack level. Note that the rear seam line is pulled all the way from the front fender up the pillar, across the side drip edge and down the rear quarter window so as to complete one solid line. The forward seam is pulled up the pillar to the forward roof edge and turned back across the front of the roof seam.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04906.jpg

So you've plowed out and redefined the seams again. A quick pass with 600 will smooth out any snagglys. Dont get crazy here and over scuff areas beyond the repair area, just enough to carefully smooth out the repair. Give it a light touch of straight testors so you can shine the repair up and see how your progressing. Starting to straighten up nicely with good definition of the individual seams.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04908.jpg

A thinned float of goop is placed on the repair and allowed to shrink in. This is very close save for a minor scallop on the window side bottom and one at the pillar to drip edge transition. We'll skim those again later.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04925.jpg

Same for the other side file it off, redefine the pillar detail, and carry the seam around the side window. Pretty low in the middle of the pillar...SO STOP SANDING! continued sanding or filing will not build an area up. LOL! Time to add some more material.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04909.jpg

It's important to look at your work from the odd angle once in a while, this shot down the pillar shows me that I'm coming back straight from the normal slot car viewing angle...above! You can kinda see how it's beginning to shrink in as time passes.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04911.jpg

We were a little low along the drip edge as well, many Toronadoes are weird here straight from the factory. A good time to skim the entire area and see how it shrinks in. Please stay tuned.

Bill,

We are watching your Incredibleness El eXcelentcious be ally odious shish! :eek:

Bob...that's a good thing...zilla

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04755.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04929.jpg

Ed's grey XKE has some minor front dammage, nit picky wheel well stuff, but the back was totalled. At last stage the rear bumper box was rebuilt using an old grey t-jet wheel controller for stock. Next step was to get after the dammaged upper well line and straighten it out. In this case it was gashed rather high and required a minor graft to get enough material to work with.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04756.jpg

Looks like quite a bit of excess...and it is. It's a lot easier to fit and handle bigger chunks if ya have the material, so why fight it if ya dont have to. Once cured the excess is snipped away quickly with the dykes and ripped down with the file in seconds.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04928.jpg

After some filing and a re-skim, a scab rear bumper is used to check the fit and make sure we're gettin' close. The beginnings of the missing lower valence must register tightly against the bottom side of the bumper tips.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04930.jpg

Grey XKE Valences dont grow on trees so two small triangular snips of stock are bonded to the rebuilt bumper box with just enough clearance to allow the bumper to slide in. Once this graft is stable 24 hrs give er take. Another identical slice will be added to each side to add the needed width. After a good cure out the roughed valence can be quickly profiled into its proper curvature in just a few minutes.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04842.jpg

Goop is a wonderful thing!!! The best part with this jag rebuild is I have one to hold in my hand as I watch and learn!! It makes it easier to grasp the scale of the things you're working on..The pictures make it look so much bigger!! :thumbsup:

Joe

Boy, it is like magic seeing these bodies transform, Bill! (I love greeeeeeen!)
Neat play-by play, too!

Ed is going to have a sweet vette! I am guessing that the grey ones are on the rare side?

I got an idea now i see how you did the windshield post and they look perfect now maybe i can fix the roof i chopped on my old truck

Goop is a wonderful thing!!! The best part with this jag rebuild is I have one to hold in my hand as I watch and learn!! It makes it easier to grasp the scale of the things you're working on..The pictures make it look so much bigger!! :thumbsup:

Joe

Interesting observation Uther Joe! Now that ya mention it, by golly they do look like O gauge cars in the pics. It should be noted periodically that we only do little bits at a time on these tiny cars. This keeps the eye strain to a minimum and prevents hand cramping. The very nature of goop ensures that you'll pick it up and work for a few minutes; then set it aside move on to the next car in a steady rotation.

OFJoez: Ya might have noticed that I post more than average amount of green cars not just because it is my favorite color....it's an easy way to keep you tuned in! :thumbsup:

Pearl: The more pillars you do the easier they get. In this case we didnt have viable grafts so they are sculpted from scrap. Regardless of method the important part is the first stage where the small bits are bonded in. Straight, square, and strong is what matters. This ensures that the pillars will stand up to filing, gouging, sanding; and in the case of original Aurora cars, a three stage buff.

Thanks for the informatiom Bill .
I notice the tool you use to cut the little car ..

The pictures make the tool look larger than it is.

i use that one also and another one that was meant for cutting 1/87 scale train track , it cuts a very neat straight cut ,it is thinner than the side cutters at least thats what i call them . It might be a good tool for cutting little cars .
i dont know if you guys have seen them , if so the moderator can delete this.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh303/mijyma/slot%20cars/p2.jpg

I use the orange ones for a closer cut.when i am ripping apart a motormax diorama to get the little parts .

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh303/mijyma/slot%20cars/p20.jpg


I use the big cutters to free up the parts .
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh303/mijyma/slot%20cars/p7.jpg

And the little cutters to trim them it trims it almost flush.


You can even get it in behind the wheel on most diecast cars to cut the axle. If you dont want to drill out the rivits to do a wheel swap .

i have axles my husband made for me and wheels and they are threaded and i just twist a new wheel on and slide the axle in the car.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh303/mijyma/slot%20cars/p17.jpg

Hey Pearl ! how ya been? Those cutters work great don't they. I have a bunch of those and the ones that Model MAster made for Testors years back. Now give us some more car pics !! LOL

Hey Pearl ! how ya been? Those cutters work great don't they. I have a bunch of those and the ones that Model MAster made for Testors years back. Now give us some more car pics !! LOL

Been ok Tracy... i like the little cutters .


Car pictures.... If these is a problem guys just say so they dont have nothing to do with slot cars .
I play with these little cars.


http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh303/mijyma/slot%20cars/c9.jpg



Well they are custom just a little larger.

These two are my husbands work. I only did the interiors and little details this is our real hobby .I am not sure if i posted them before . I got so many pictures in my photobucket between our site and here i cant remember.l.o.l.


So now you guys know why i like cars.

The Plymouth runs a 351 v8 and c6 automatic, yes ford powered .

G.M.C Had the roof chopped and runs a 454 full house v8 and i think it has a 400 automatic they both have line locks to have a little fun with .


http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh303/mijyma/slot%20cars/40hr.jpg

Yes Pearl!

Cutters, AKA dykes are great for roughing things out when you have the space. They are fast, clean, and dont create a bunch of slag or residue.

snip snip chop chop!

Sweeeeeeeeeet ! tell your Hubby I'm coming to visit LOL ! The cars actually have a lot to do with what we doo because we are always trying to make our tracks , well....look like what you just made. So thats why we like em so much. We get tons of ideas from your pics !

Sweeeeeeeeeet ! tell your Hubby I'm coming to visit LOL ! The cars actually have a lot to do with what we doo because we are always trying to make our tracks , well....look like what you just made. So thats why we like em so much. We get tons of ideas from your pics !

Perhaps this is best left on topic... as Bill's thread. He's logged nearly 30 pages for us now and it might be nice on our part to give that considerable continuity the chance to prevail. nd

The blue jag made a return to home ground, in much better shape than when she left. Trying to keep up to take a pic, but now that she is all dolled up she wants to run.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/thumbs/DSCN0702.JPG (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/30770)

I'll try to get a better pic from the front side.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/thumbs/DSCN0701.JPG (http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/30769)

Coming home and finding a box with Bill Hall's return address is a pretty darn good homecoming suprise!

Looks great from here! :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr

Split that looks Awesum on your track layout...nice pics of a Bill Hall save.

Bob

Bill- THe Toronado is shaping up nicely. I am getting a much better grasp of your tooling and gradual goop process. Mine has been more of a glob and go. Nice work on the jag as well. Fortunately, not too much in the way of contouring on the fenders of the Jag. The flat file set and dental pick have arrived. Looking forwad to my next repair session.
Jim

Many kind words...Thanks gang! I always enjoy seeing a car pictured at it's home. I restore so many original cars that they all kinda run together. Certain ones stick out though, like Ed's black Willys from last year as an example. I just get attached to certain ones mostly due to personal bias. This once ratty XKE kinda grew on me. Split was lucky to get her back...LOL. She was almost lost in shipping.

Work bench nuts and bolts

Cleaned off my bench the other day and wiped down some of my basic arsenal. Occasionally ya just gotta fall back and re-organize.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04782.jpg

I'm often asked how I get wheel wells just right ....especially when they are free sculpted. I CHEAT! This home made tool allows me scribe well lines exactly, when I have a duplicate to copy from of course. Simply an old pin vise with a bent sewing pin as the business end...easily replaced when worn or ruined.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04844-1.jpg

A file set need not be Nasa quality. This was the 6 buck harbor freight set. What is important is having a variety of shapes and experimenting with them so ya know what kind of shape they cut. Each one has a purpose. The tiny one off to the left is my A pillar file ...the fat round rat tail is a chainsaw file that is used on wheel wells for re-radiusing. Lurking near the bottom is my sanding pencil....it must be round!....not a hexagonal #2! LOL. With some sticky backed 220 dry sand paper around the end it is the ultimate wheel well tool for rounded arches.

I like quality brushes and take good care of them cuz they arent cheap. The tiny ones are a 00 and 000 used for nearly all my goop work. For detail work like painting headlamps, trim, and fidgety stuff. I have a seperate 000 brush designated "detail only"! The big squirrel hair is for washing bodies between buffing stages....I mean duh....ya want something soft that wont scratch right? The synthetic "tight fan" brush is used specifically for applying testors washes on whole sections or entire cars. Chosen because it holds alot and I can cover a lot of ground with it.


http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04845-1.jpg

I keep my chosen blades in their own handles. Nuthin fancy here. A #2, a 3/8 or 1/2" gouge and sometimes a 1/4" straight gouge(not pictured...lost somewheres).The dental pics come with about 8000 different tip variations. Scrapers, pokers, and gouges ...oh my! The standard saw and the micro saw are used when careful controlled cuts have to be made on the work piece.

If ya want straight seams, a good straight edge is a must. In this case a machinists square pulls triple duty as a scribing guide, measuring device, ...and ...duh...a SQUARE!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04847-1.jpg

GOOD Tweezers!, pliers and forceps are standard fare along with sharp scissors and gator clips. The gator clips are indespensible in so many areas but they are mostly used as heat sinks when soldering up my brass rats. Note: the really old pliers have the teeth filed off so that they will not mar plastic surfaces.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04848-1.jpg

The frame shop consists of bludgeoning devices and tools of enforcement. The "Mr. Roboto" hobby clamper is in constant use around here and it should be one of the first gadgets any hobbyist/builder should buy. The ancient machinist's clamp actually gets used quite a bit and the vice grips mostly get used for cranking stuck lids from goop and paint jars ...hahahaha!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04850-1.jpg

I like my whizzer bits available and neat. Other than the buffing wheels which I use the heck out of the rest dont see a lot of steady use, but when I want one I want it to be easy to find. They are mostly used for roughing and hacking in the early stages of a build. Note: The dremel is not a finish tool.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04849-2.jpg

A luxury perhaps, however I couldnt imagine modeling with out my decimal drill index. Being able to drill precision holes makes building easy and takes quite a bit of stress out of the game.

Of course there is more to my bench but the 'lil widgets are what keep things flowing smoothly

Gee Thanks Bill, Now my wife says I need to organize my work bench!

Rich

At least on my desk there is!! :freak: I do need to straighten up my mess here and most definately need to upgrade my tool assortment. I do see you have on of those low budget low tech breaker inner lighted chassis tester upper thingys like mine!! So I'm not alone after all!!! I guess it's just one of the tools of the trade!!! :thumbsup:

NutherJoe