when I pull the recoil start it often jambs like there is some preignition preventing further pulling. However this happens even with the run button in the off position but pulls easily with no plug in the cylinder. valves have been resurfaced and compression is good around 150 psi.

If I put my foot on the engine, so I don't lift it off the ground, and pull like hell past the restriction it fires up and runs. Feels almost like too much compression

any help appreciated.

make sure the valves are adjusted properly, if they are you may have a problem with your Automatic Compression Release.

thanks, I thought as much after a little more research. Time to pull the engine apart.

Don't take the whole thing apart now, just work on the valves :p.

Fixed the problem now that I understand it. The valve lash was too great so that the unloading did not move the exhaust valve.

Now i just have the surging problem that I can eliminate with a partial closing of the choke. Must be running too lean. Anyway to richen the mixture? Carb has been cleaned, gaskets checked but maybe not perfect so leakage leans out the mix too much??

That is generally a lean run condition, but a plugged air bleed will also cause this, especially if it smooths out mostly with a load.

When you cleaned the carburetor, did you remove the nozzle and make sure all the orifices in it were clear of any build up or obstructions?

Yes, I cleaned the tiny holes in the main nozzle although they were not plugged in the first place. I ran some Gunk Carb Cleaner through them, etc.

Surging mostly under heavy load, By air bleed do you mean the Pilot Jet or pilot air jet ? I ran Gunk through these as well and had what appeared unobstructed good flow.

My next step will be to simply eliminate the gasket problem by replacing them.

Yes, by air bleed I do mean the pilot jet. If it's doing it all the time even under a load, it may be an air leak, or some restriction to the main jet. Before you do anything else to the carburetor, it would be a good idea to set the governor static adjustment and make sure that is not the problem.

Best of Luck... :thumbsup:

you got me there!! what is static governor adjustment??

All of the springs and linkages are as they were originally. I have to yey adjust the speed for 60 hertz because my meter is at my cottage where this unit is home to.

All of the springs and linkages are as they were originally. I have to yey adjust the speed for 60 hertz because my meter is at my cottage where this unit is home to.

Well since you said you can apply the choke and get it to smooth out then it's probably not the governor. There is no adjustment on this carburetor that I am aware of, so there must still be some slight restriction in the jet or nozzle and or an air leak. Was the little O-ring that seals the pilot jet in good condition? If it's not sealing good there can be a leak there.

Yes, all is good with the o-ring. It sure is a small hole along the axis to the carb. I was able to blow carb cleaner through and got a spray out the end. Similarly for the lines in the carb. When I take apart again to replace the gaskets, I will do another full carb cleaning and soak overnite. We have a compressor so can also blow out the internal ports.

You guys have been awesome in your support. I thank you very much!!!!

If I get it fixed, I will advise. Also, if I don't.

Bad news. Still surging under load. Seems worse with an inductive load, smooths out when a resistive load is added. This is with choke in the intermediate detent position (patial choke). No problem under no load condition. Can still hunt with only resistive load.

Seems like a dashpot in the governor linkage would help. Once it starts dancing there is no stopping it short of choking until it stops hunting then go to intermediate detent, then no hunting.

Well at this point I would try resetting the governor adjustment. You have nothing to loose but a little time.


http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=57398&stc=1&d=1207445609
Gov_Adj_GX.jpg

what references do you have for this?

Just some odds and ends I have acquired over the years, and some I have found searching around on the internet.

I found a description from another thread, as follows;

Does not matter what type of engine, if it has an internal governor the static adjustment is the same on all of them.

Locate the governor shaft where it comes out of the engine block. Loosen the arm that is attached to the shaft. Hold the throttle on the carburetor to the wide open position and note which direction the arm attached to the governor shaft moves. While holding the throttle wide open rotate the governor shaft in the same direction it would turn to open the throttle, turn it until it stops. Tighten the arm back down to the governor shaft. Thats the procedure for making the static adjustment on any internal governor, horizontal or vertical.

Now setting the top governed engine speed will be different depending on Make, Model, Brand etc........



in conclusion, the static adjustment was set correctly.

oops tried to duplicate

Yes, the static governor adjustment is the same on all engines with an internal governor. To eliminate any confusion I just posted the one from a Honda service manual.

You never said you had reset the governor, only that you never changed it. Settings can change with the removal of the carburetor, that is why I suggested checking it. It seems like you have covered your bases, there must be something wrong with your carburetor that is not readily apparent, it may just be time to replace the carburetor.

I noticed another location for the governor spring on a tab bent at 90 degrees down on the governor arm. Almost impossible to see. This tab and hole are about an inch closer to the shaft of the governor.

Moved the spring there and Yahoo!! no more hunting/surging. I feel kind of stupid not seeing this before. I could have avoided a few carb cleanings and not tested your patience.

Thank you 30yearTech...you are the man!!!!

Glad to hear you got it figured out. :)