Thanks for the info. I kinda figured that out but wasn't sure if there were longer axles that were available. Also I had to shave the front knuckle arms with a utility knife a little because of rim scrapeage. Thanks again Hankster.

Thanks to all who replied about the bodies. I really appreciate it. All of those shops have some pretty cool bodies painted on their sites.:wave:

[edited] Please use the Swap and Sell area for items you are selling. Thanks!

Whats the lowest turn someone has used on there stock esc and it still functions (i mean for like a month of the low turn use) thanks! also , whats a good replacement motor for the photon speed , that hings is powerless in like a week.

Have you checked your brushes? Do you have a comm stik?

TL XXX Wannabe

The Photon new is about equal to a well tuned stock motor.

Yeah , I have a comm stick , but one of the brush springs snapped. I was thinking a chameleon , isnt that that 19t stock trinity? And also , waht gives duratrax lol , no red anything for there red body , only green , yellow , and blue

I oderd the front aluminum brace from tower.When I orderd the part I thought I was geting part number #52 but in aluminum, Oh well since I got it why not keep it. So I was wnodering what does it do to improve handleing, or is it something that is there just for looks? You can see a picture a picture of it that I poasted. :thumbsup:

Ahhh... that is a handy piece. It will help keep the front bulkhead from breaking. When you hit something with one front wheel, the front bulkhead could break as the hinge is yanked to the side. That brace ties both pins together and helps prevent that. What is the part number if that piece?

Hey guys just ordered my Evader from tower:D
I want to what are some things to adjust before the first run

Thanks- :thumbsup:

The main thing to check is that the diff is adjusted properly. Other then that you should be ready to go.

The part number is dtxc6613 or, on tower LXAMT5, or go here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAMT5).To me it felt lighter then aluminum, but had to be aluminum.:wave:

Originally posted by TL XXX Wannabe
Whats the lowest turn someone has used on there stock esc and it still functions (i mean for like a month of the low turn use) thanks! also , whats a good replacement motor for the photon speed , that hings is powerless in like a week.

i used a 17 turn speed gems sapphire with 19/88 for about a month with no problems

Originally posted by yoyou13
I oderd the front aluminum brace from tower.When I orderd the part I thought I was geting part number #52 but in aluminum, Oh well since I got it why not keep it. So I was wnodering what does it do to improve handleing, or is it something that is there just for looks? You can see a picture a picture of it that I poasted. :thumbsup:

i was all excited when i saw the package,but when i opened it up i was like ([edited] - Please read our rules on the language that is allowed here). i paid 11 bux for this? oh well it looks kinda cool,i also thought i was getting that big piece over the servo

I also thought that to, I thought I was geting a bigger piece but oh well.:rolleyes:

jdm - I edited your message. Please read our rules on the language that is allowed here.

I finally took my truck to the track today, nice indoor, couple of jumps, and a straight, kind of tight... anyway, during the warm up, jumped and crashed with a xxxt, and... yes I broke the transmission brace... that was the end of my fist day of racing...
Thinking of replacing with the aluminum parts, but does it make it heavier, or doesn't really matter??

Originally posted by yoyou13
I oderd the front aluminum brace from tower.When I orderd the part I thought I was geting part number #52 but in aluminum, Oh well since I got it why not keep it. So I was wnodering what does it do to improve handleing, or is it something that is there just for looks? You can see a picture a picture of it that I poasted.
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Another Post
I was all excited when i saw the package,but when i opened it up i was like ([edited] i paid 11 bux for this? oh well it looks kinda cool,i also thought i was getting that big piece over the servo
************************************************** *******************

Based on my research, Tower's web sight lists the dimension of their Aluminum front brace offering as identical to and has a linked page as a replacement for the Evader's "front brace" which is the much larger piece than tower is shipping. Duratrax seems equally confused. I have reported it to them.

Graphite Parts?
I e-maled Duratrax today and I asked them if they were going to make graphite parts for the evader, and this is what they had to say:
Thank you for writing us. As of right now there are no graphite parts available for the Evader however there might be some available in the future.
I can't wait until they come out!:D :thumbsup:

Nobody has posted anything here in quite a while. Somebody?

ANYTHING - well... you did say anything :rolleyes:

Has anybody come up with a definative list of Losi XXT and XXXT parts that fit on the Evader? I am tired of waiting for alluminum parts to be in stock and graphite parts to be built... Sheesh, somebody at Duratrax should have had the foresight for the demand.
After all, someone at the company knew how many they were building and selling. And obviously somebody at Duratrax has read Hanks glowing review at least once.

Word! I want some quality parts , none of this ordering , then a week later "priority" shipping. Cmon duratrax , send it 1 day air , if ya know whats good for ya :)

XXT parts: the graphite a-arms f&R fit, front body mount fits, front hinge pin brace fits, rear chassis fits which means the tranny will fit.

With little mod: stealth tranny with the mip cvds/dogbones.:thumbsup:

Hank we shelled out another idler gear. Have you been running your evader? we still need a fix for it. I used diff lube on the diff what should I use on the gears in the tranny?

I haven't run mine if a few weeks. I haven't been able to find an easy or cheap fix for the idler gear. Not every one seems to be having the problem and I suspect it may be a bad case mold but haven't been able to confirm it.

Originally posted by hankster
I haven't run mine if a few weeks. I haven't been able to find an easy or cheap fix for the idler gear. Not every one seems to be having the problem and I suspect it may be a bad case mold but haven't been able to confirm it.

Hi,
I blew out three idlers doing normal jumping, even being careful to have a fairly loose slipper. I replaced the idler with an Associated B2 Stealth one - here is how... get the Stealth idler shaft, idler gear and bearing. These are english parts, and not metric, so the shaft is just a bit smaller than the Evader stock one, but the gear has more meat and is a better material (less brittle). I put a ring of thin heatshrink on each end of the shaft and it fit perfectly in the Evader tranny case. So far it is holding up well.

Jep

I've looked at alot of associated idler gears and they have 28 teeth the duratrax has 29, can you count yours? what was the associate part number?

The B/T2 idler has the proper number of teeth.

Originally posted by 22Racer
I've looked at alot of associated idler gears and they have 28 teeth the duratrax has 29, can you count yours? what was the associate part number?

It was the B2/T2 Stealth idler - I know it had the same number because I held it right against an Evader one at my LHS. The number of teeth on the gear, outer diameter of the gear and shaft length are exactly the same, but the shaft diameter and idler bearings are slightly smaller. You need:

ASC 9360 idler
ASC 6361 shaft
(2) 3/8x3/16 bearings
thin-walled heatshrink tubing on ends of shaft for a snug fit.

Jep

I bought the 9360 b2 idler gear last night. It is the one I looked at before, it has 28 teeth the evader has 29. I'm not saying it won't work though. I bored the holes out for 10mm bearing, and put it in. It definetly has more play especially between the idler and diff gear. I'm going to try it, Also at work I can get 29 tooth gear blanks through Boston gear. They are only 1/8 inch wide so I'll have to run 2 of them. They come in stainless steel or delrin plastic. I'll let you know how those work.

You need the idler gear fron the Stealth transmission. The part number I have is 6570

Originally posted by hankster
You need the idler gear fron the Stealth transmission. The part number I have is 6570

Nope, the 6570 is the gear and shaft combo and the gear is molded onto the shaft - this will not work in the Evader because the Evader has the bearings inside the idler itself, not the tranny housing. I am about pretty certain the gear I used was the 9360, but I thought it had exactly the same number of teeth as the Evader one - I held them right over one another. Interestingly enough, Tower says it has 27 teeth in their description. I bought mine at my LHS and do not have the package any more. I do know I had to buy the gear, shaft, and two 3/8x3/16 bearings all separately. The reason I didn't bore out the ASC gear was because I wanted to keep the added meat it had, hoping it would hold up better. Oh, well, I may have to go back to the LHS and verify exactly what I got. Sorry for any confusion.

Jep

OK - here we go. eHobbies has a good clear picture of the gear on their site, I put the link and pic below. You can count the teeth on it. I count 28 teeth. This is definitely the one I used. Maybe their are some odd-ball ones out there?

Jep

http://store.yahoo.com/ehobbies-com/1002-9957.html
http://store3.yimg.com/I/ehobbies-com_1688_246222517

Does anybody know what weight of shock oil the Evader uses from the factory. Also what weights are people using with the soft (white) springs?

You need to use the gear from the Stealth transmission. The B2 had two style of transmissions. I gave the part number in an eariler message.

Not sure what is stock. I am using 25 to 30 with the white springs.

I read somewhere on the Duratrax website that they use 20 weight oil as stock in the shocks.

Anyone know if the white stock Evader wheels are dyeable?

When I rebuilt my shocks it looked like they used 25wt in them. :wave:

Aah... definitive answer. This from the last page of the Evader manual:

"We have filled the shocks with 20 weight shock oil,
which is a good choice for most driving conditions."

:thumbsup:

(edit: my spelling is horrible! Shame on me!)

Ive been itching to get back into my Evader that I sold it to my friend,But I have a question,Has anyone got the associated top shaft to work?Or did it have a different count on the teeth?Beings the idler gear wont be an issue anymore I just might go back to this kit.And those new braces are lookin cool too.I would definately make some..OH has anyone had major problems with the rear arm mount breakin?Has anyone found an alternate?And one more thing HI Y'ALL :wave:

Isnt this the most awesome Evader you have ever seen!!!!!!!!!!!!




http://teamrcv.com/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/Rides/hanksterevst03.jpg

Where did that body come from?

JS Bodies I beleive. If I not mistaken that is Hanksters Evader.

Originally posted by ashilli
Where did that body come from?

No it is a Losi Matt Francis body from the XXXT,It is owned and operated by the Hankster!!!Isnt it the most sweetest Evader youve ever seen OMG!!!!! Hank I love that

Yes, it is a Losi MF (Fury) body and it was painted by J.S. Bodies. James is a regular here and posts in the painting discussion.

You said the Idler was not a problem any more. What are you using? I've stripped 4 idlers now. I tried the b2 28 teeth one that one I can hear skipping, so I took it back out.I looked at the 6570 that one only has like 26 teeth. Tomorrow I'm trying some I got from Boston gear, there to narrow so I'm using 2. I have to bore them out in the lathe to get the bearing in it, there just a standard gear with a 1/8 hole.

i thought from what i read you guys got the idler figured out but I have said from the start that the topshaft was the problem not the idler...:rolleyes:

Hi "22Racer" and "2nd Gear",

I am very interested in your discussion of the EVST idler. I think we need to pool our knowledge here (maybe in a new thread? I too have stripped no less than 4 idlers. If you read my previous posts, I have been experimenting with the Associated idler parts, and thought I had it licked, but last night I fear I stripped another one (haven't cracked open the tranny yet, but...).

Interestingly, my son has an EVST as well, and we have never stripped the idelr in his, so I am still suspecting a defect in my rig. I just ordered a new tranny housing to try as well.

What do you guys know that has/hasn't been tried to fix this? housing?, top shaft? mods? run dry?, run greased?

Jep

jep_rc have you ever tried the assoc. topshaft?I dont own my old evader yet but i am working on it..I dont think it will be a problem either...When it does come back into my hands Ill be going at the topshaft problem full swing but til then the stock topshaft from assoc. is pretty cheap..I had alot figured out til this T3 fell into my lap then i had to let the EVst go.I still remember all the stiffening i wanted to do and i am going to do them as soon as I get it back Ill know later tonight..I plan on getting a MF XXXT for back up..So bye bye T3