Originally posted by 22Racer
I haven't had to send a part in yet, I have a few in stock that I bought and when I break I just request what I've broken online and I have them in about 4 days. I've broken about 12-14.

I was told after I requested my 10th replacement part that I would have to start sending the parts in. So far I've had to send parts in twice($7 each time) and still haven't recieved any of the new parts.

My buddy bought one of these and it broke each of the first 5 times out. Now with the replacement parts, all is well. He didn't want to mess with sending stuff to duratrax, so he ordered his parts from our LHS and paid his own way.

Now it's time for Duratrax to pay back. I'm not sure I entirely agree with his philosophy, but he used the online form and filled it out 8 times to order all 22 stress tech parts. Duratrax never questioned the order and as of last week he has received either 15 or 16 of the items with a notice of other parts on backorder.

I guess they must just screen a percentage of the warranty orders. Maybe they require you to send in after several orders, who knows. Maybe a stock up on each part is the way to go. If you can get away with it that is.

Take care,
Trevor:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Couple more things, the servo saver that constantly breaks: we replaced with a T3 saver, shape is a little diff, but it seems to work decent. Hasn't broken since. Also, we found that the transmission works best (at least this one) with the diff tightened all the way. When backed off an 1/8 turn, we have no traction, no matter how the slipper is set. Now the wheel spin is fixed, for now...

I guess I'm lucky, because I bring all my broken parts to my LHS and the exchange them with no cost at all...

Well I just got my brother to order one. Ill let you guys know how it goes , Ill have to take it for a test drive myself :) hehe :devil:

Originally posted by 22Racer
Try boiling even the new ones it should help also ( I haven't tried it myself yet)

What do you do, just boil water in a pot and put the parts in it? How long should you leave them in for?

Thanks :wave:

I think you throw them in a boiling pot for an hour or so. Someone can correct me. You can use a metal coathanger or string to hold them off the bottom.(if they don't float) There should be some posts on this Duratrax Evader subject that talk about boiling parts.

Any ideas I replaced my chassis, so total teardown. Now I have reassembled my truck No throttle control and no steering control. Front wheels glitch and go full right. Help I plan on racing Tuesday night! Hankster? Anyone?

I plan to run a 16 triple speed gem, any sugestion on the pinion gear?? got 19,20 and 21 tooth.
Does the motor affect the ratio??
Thanks for your help.

bluelightracer, About the only thing I can think of is you plugged the ESC and servo wires in your receiver backwards.

Toiffel, I would start with the stock gearing and then go smaller a tooth or two on the pinion if the motor gets hot.

Just a note to anyone considering on/off road tires for the Evader. On a previous post I indicate that the Dirt Hawgs II were a good option. Today I stand by my suggestion.

Yesterday I tried the Dirt Hawgs. I only mounted a set for the rear, front was running on factory tires. What convinced me about the Dirt Hawgs II, was that yesterday it rain the whole day and on a brief break I decided to try these new tires on asphalt. Needless to say the road was soaking wet.

When I was about to start my test, I was getting ready for lots of tire spin and poor handling. To my surprise the Dirt Hawgs II had incredible traction. I didn't glue the tires to the rims, because I didn't expect that kind of traction on wet pavement. It was glued to the road. Too bad I didn't use the front set, because the only problem was understeering from the ribbed factory tires.

Great tires! Anybody else has tried these tires on the Evader? Would like to know... Maybe it was raining "bite"?

I recently purchased two Evader ST RTR's. I am impressed with performance but had some breakage. Unit 1's second run saw it careem into a stopped unit 2 at less than half throttle. The collision was fairly mild. Broke front bulk head and brace as well as one front rim has some break out on the bead.

I Ordered parts through handy dandy stress-tech order page yesterday but have received no email reply yet. Quite frankly this breakage is something I won't put up with long. I need upgrades for bulkhead, brace, wheels. Any suggestions of parts from Duratrax or any other manufacturer that will fit without alteration would be apreciated.


I can't tell for sure yet but I think I will try upgrading the steering on one of them to try. If anyone has suggestions on which product to try here, I would be interested.

I have had two packs run through it and already rboke the front bulkhead brace , and bent the rear shock shaft and tower , like 1 foot of air or less. Im gonna tell them I want another shock , it was even big air , and im positive its not dirt. Damn , the first day , what a poke in the eye with a short stick. the bulkhead was my fault lol

Originally posted by R/C-Newbie
I have had two packs run through it and already rboke the front bulkhead brace , and bent the rear shock shaft and tower , like 1 foot of air or less. Im gonna tell them I want another shock , it was even big air , and im positive its not dirt. Damn , the first day , what a poke in the eye with a short stick. the bulkhead was my fault lol

Don't let it upset you too much...it won't be the last time it happens...trust me!!

By an act of god I bent the shock shaft back adn the tower , they work fine now lol , but the bulkhead still cracked. But with the new parts coming , it shouldnt hapen again.

As I sit back and wait for my parts order from duratrax(total devastation to the front of my evader) I have found myself ordering colored replacement parts/rims and now I want to find a good upgrade motor. Any suggestions on a good hop-up motor to put in the evader without having to change too much of anything else involved in the trans?


Also are there any bodies other than truck bodies that will fit the evader(classic musclecars)?


Thanks all

I'm trying out a 16 triple spped gem, and from what I understand, you can still use the stock esc...

What can the stock ESC Handle.

Duratrax says the stock ESC can handle 20-27 turn motors, but I have heard of more than a few who have used lower turn motors with no probs.

Can anyone reccomend a better than the stock steering servo for the evader?

What kind of a difference is there between a 16T double and a 17T single?? What brand of motor is recommended? This is for the evader of course.

Thanks for the help!:cool:

For a servo try the Hobbico CS-65. Trinity makes some inexpensive 16 and 17 turn motors. There really isn't much differance between them.

Is there much of a difference between the evader's photon 20tx1 and the trinity speedgem ruby 2 16t triple? Speedwise what are we talking about?

Thanks again

I cleaned the motor in my Evader about 3 weeks ago, and had a chance to take it to the track for the 1st time yesterday. I cleaned the brushes but did not replace brushes or springs. Also re-built the diff. Tightened the diff in small increments until it quit squealing. Did the paper trick with the gear mesh, and it seems to be OK (the truck will shut off anyway if the gear mesh is too tight). Truck ran great yesterday, run time was good, lap times were about the same, but the motor is running hotter than before. The only thing I changed in the setup was to take about 1/4 turn out of the slipper yesterday, because the track was really dry. The temp here has gone up about 20 degrees since the last time I ran it (mid 80's). Is the increase in motor temp related to that, or have I missed something? And yes, I oiled the bushings after I cleaned the motor. Should I replace the brushes?

Air temp. will have effect on the motor temp, that is normal. If you can't touch the motor for more then a couple seconds after the run then it's on the verge of being too hot. If you touch it and the skin peels off your finger then you know it's too hot...:eek:

If the brushes are wore more then half way, you should prolly change them.

Does anyone else have a problem with the evader motor , ive had about 15 packs and allready the brushes are black , and so are the lines to the eyelet. Ive had it less than a week , all i need is some motor cleaner and a commstick and imback on the raod. Just wondering why the brushes brunt out so fast..

I noticed the same thing with my brushes (not so much with the wires, though). After about 15 packs, they were really black, and took quite a few passes with the comm stick to clean. I may experiment with a different set of brushes next go round and see what happens. Anyone replaced their stock brushes with a different set?

Im thinking of a Strike 19T Stock Modified motor from promatchracing.com for $20 , anyone else orderd one of these yet?

I like it , even though its not mine lol. Its my bros but he lets me drive it , it seems to have held up good so far , Ive been in alot of hard crashes with it , no breakage except the front bulkhead , and the rear shock tower , which was bent , but I bent it back and now it works. Thats the truck im going ot get next , an Evader , I think mine came with hydration or something. Except the front bulhead part , after I but he new one on , I brokes the other one by barley bending it with my fingers , pathetic. Yeah , I like it , im ognna get that for my next car after I sell my buggy.

I think i'm gonna be selling my Evader pretty soon if you're interested? There's a few pictures of it in the post called "Post Your Duratrax Evader Pics". I'm looking at getting an Emaxx :D :D

Hey Evdrguy. I am interested in your evader and bodies. Give me details. Register with ebay. It's easy. But let me know. I live in Canada also. (SK) Your email listed does not work.

Originally posted by philp37
Hey Evdrguy. I am interested in your evader and bodies. Give me details. Register with ebay. It's easy. But let me know. I live in Canada also. (SK) Your email listed does not work.

I will be putting it up on Ebay, I'm just trying to decide if the Emaxx is worth all the money.

you can email me at chapman76@rogers.com

oh ya it looks wicked, the problem is once you convert the price to Canadian dollars I'm looking at upwards of $550 for the RTR version and then tax on top of that...plus batteries and whatever I'd need to get it going. :eek: :eek: Thats alot of $!!

its a xxx k/e , 200 w/out motor shipped with radio gear and crystals. also esc.

I have a 17T motor on my Sprint. It works fine with 6 cells, but I was wondering if my 7 cell would do any damage. I don't want to waste my 7 cell I purchased before I got my new motor.

I was wondering if a 13x3 motor would shred the stock gears , my freind thnks so , any light on this subject? thanks.

For some reason some transmissions seem to be weaker then others. If you have one of the good ones then it should handle a 13 turn fine.

What about the gears or gearbox , isnt that stresstech or something , so if I shred them I get new ones?

The gear case is Stresstech, but the gears themselves are not. But DuraTrax has been replacing any gears that have gone bad.

[edited] PLEASE read our posting guidelines for proper language to use on these boards.

PLEASE read our posting guidelines for proper language to use on these boards.

I have an Evader and have recently changed the wheels to chrome ones.....changed shock springs to white ones.....and changed shock oil to 45 weight. I love the truck.....can't drive worth a crap, but that is me not the truck. I don't like the body and want a new one. I would like to get one painted and trimmed and ready to go. I don't mind tearing into the mechanical parts of the truck...pretty comfortable with that because I work on air conditioning equipment and am used to the hands on stuff......but I can't paint a body, I don't think. Where should I look for a body like this. Thanks!!!:dude:

Here's a link.

http://www.dahms-intl.com/

And another.

http://www.jsbodies.com/

One more.

http://personalwebs.myriad.net/cdbc/

Any body that is made for the Losi XXT/XXXT will fit the Evader. That give you tons of choices.

Hey Hank. Could you provide us with some of those choices. I don't want to learn paint at this point. But I need some help finding a ready to ship painted body for the evader.

I have had J.S. Bodies paint a few for me. You can see my Evader with a J.S. Bodies painted Team Losi XXXT Matt Francis body at http://teamrcv.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showpic&pid=598&orderby=dateD and
http://teamrcv.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showpic&pid=597&orderby=dateD and
http://teamrcv.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showpic&pid=596&orderby=dateD

I know some can't afford a J.S. Bodies paint job. RenBlast also does painting and is a little more affordable. I personally just don't like to looks of the Dahm's bodies.

You can always try the Orion body decals and if applied correctly they look pretty nice. That would involve some painting but you can get away with only painting one color if you use the body decals.

Hello all,

I just got my RPM Clawz 6 spoke rims delivered and there seems to be a problem. :mad: The front rims don't freewheel(spin easy) on the bearings. It seems that the axle is a hair to short and the nut is tightening down on the rim. I bought the rims for the losi xxt-xxxt because I have heard that the xxxt and the evader were very close and that the rims would fit. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks to all that reply.

Just don't tighten the nut down all the way. The nut is self locking so it shouldn't come off. This not unusal no matter what the brand.