:wave: Hey HANK,thought i would let you know about this guy that race's with us. Can never remember his name but of late he's been making the "A" main at larrys in stock which happen's to be the biggest class. I thought maybe these people that think the Evader is to fragile would like to hear this:thumbsup: Later "BIG-K"

Good to hear BIG-K! I want to race mine at the MARS series this summer if I can... maybe just Spec class to keep my tire cost down.

Hi everyone!

I would like to stock up on parts for my Evader and I would like help from those most experienced. Basicly the ten parts you would like to have on hand just in case. Parts that are more prone to break or wear.

How about it? The ten most wanted Evader parts. Let me start.
1. The Bulkhead
2. Front A arms
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.

Thanks!

I'm new posting around here but have been reading for a while! My brother has an Evader ST. He has broken the Bulkhead, Front A arms, the front shock tower and the idler gear. He has broken that twice. We asked the guy at the local hobby shop if he has any ideas and he said the differential was to loose. We tighten it up a little and he's never broken the gear since. It's a really nice truck. He's a new racer and has crashed it pretty good a few times. He hit a corner fence post the other day and it spun out and kept going! Thanks for the read!

I broke the servo arm once.

Thanks, keep it coming! This list will surely help other Evader newbies like me. Also can serve as a hop-up wish-list.

Harry

well guys i have come up with my plan for rc buying

i will first get the new xxxnt rtr sport

then i will get the evader and use it whent he nitro breaks down and just for fun. but right now i really want a nitro but ill still chat here

as for the idler gear is that the same as the top shaft because you could jst use the titanium one for the rc10t3 from robinson racing and it would probably fit

also the losi graphite arems will fit on with little modification

any way see you later

What I normally carry with me no matter what the brand is:

A arms front and rear
Hubs front and rear
A arm mounts front and rear

That will normally take care of 95% of any breakage. I then prowl boards like this and see if there are any other patterns of breakage. The thing with the Evader is the breakage problem it had with the ones that first came out. Since the parts for it were made imporoperly it gave the appearance that you'd need to have a stash of every part.

It seems the replacement parts have greatly reduced the breakage problems so I'm not going to have any more then the above other then an extra idler gear or two.

Originally posted by TYLER866
as for the idler gear is that the same as the top shaft because you could jst use the titanium one for the rc10t3 from robinson racing and it would probably fit


The idler will not fit beacuse the bearings are differet sizes. This also means the shaft is a different size. The Evader uses metic bearings, the T3 uses english bearings. I haven't fully investigated it yet, but it looks like an T3 idler will work if a custom shaft is made to fit the bearings.

I know that the regular idler gear for the rc10t3 will not fit the Evader. I have never heard about the titanium one. If it fits, I would buy one of those.

It won't because it's a direct replacement for the stock T3 idler, thus uses the same bearings.

:wave: I LOVE THE EVADER. HAD PROBLEMS AT FIRST SINCE THE NEW PARTS CAME IN I HAVE HAD NO BREAKAGE. EXCEPT THE FRONT BUMPER(MY FAULT) FIRE HYDRANTS DONT MOVE. I NEED SOME ADVISE ON A HOTTER ENGINE AND BETTER ESC.

The wife and I had our Evaders out yesterday doing some pretty hard backyard bashing. Her's got t-boned by my brother's T-Maxx at clost to full speed. Folded the body up inside the Evader and fliped both trucks, but no damage to report. :D

Hankster,
Have you found a idler gear with the same amount of teeth? If you can, I'm a machinist I can bore the holes bigger for the bearings. we can work out a deal. I'm checking into gear blanks from companys we have catologs at work. I also thought a 29 tooth pinion gear might work if bored out, might have to use 2 side by side to get enough width. It would have to be aluminum or plastic, the steel gears are way to hard. So far for our Evader I've made a bulkhead (solid nylon), rear chassis plate (aluminum), titanium front axles, all titanium hinge pins, (the stock ones are way to soft). We'll figure something out.

Ok, so I finally got my new set of rpm rims today, and guess what?? When I was mounting the front tires... no bearings, no spacer... So my question is, can I use the bearings and the spacer from my original set of tires?? or everytime I get new rims should I order the bearings and the spacer too???
Please bear with me, I'm very new in this....
Ohh, and is it true that I can use rubber bands instead of glueing the tire to the rims??

Duratrax just got stingy on me and wants my broken parts (what?, do they think I'm building a spare truck, LOL) How well will CA hold up on these parts? The one part I want to try to CA the most is the front body mount (to get me through the weekend, then I'll mail it in). BTW, who here has had to mail in broken part before receiving new one? What is the turnaround time?

22, I have heard the T3 gear is the same teeth but the bearings are different. I have one on order to check out. If that is the case then a new idler shaft will have to be made. Easy job for a machinist. Once I find out I'll post here.

Toiffel, You can use the same bearings and spacer.

ashilli, Did you use the part replacement order form on the DuraTrax site? It is listed here in one of the earlier messages. They haven't asked for the broken parts that I know of if someone uses that form. Just found it, go here and order http://www.duratrax.com/techsupport/evader-support.html

OK, I'm using the ball bearings from the original tires, but everytime I tighten the front nuts, the tires won't budge... I need some advise, what should I do??It's like the inside of the rim is making contact with the knuckle arm....

Don't tighten the nuts all the way. Back off of them until the tire rotates freely.

Ok, This is looking very promising. Here's what I compiled so far; Some items like the A arms I listed front and rear apart because they come in separate part kits.

1. Front A arms
2. Rear A arms
3. Front Hubs
4. Rear Hubs
5. Idle Gear
6. Front Shock Tower
7. The Bulkhead
8. Spur Gear (?)
9. Rear Shock Tower (?)
10. Front Body mount?

Hank, How about the Diff gear, should it be on the list? Is it plastic o metal?

As long as the diff is adjusted properly you shouldn't have a problem. It is made of plastic, but then that is the same as all manufacturers.

Finally got some pictures up of my Evader. Comes fitted with a Losi XXXT Matt Francis body painted by JS Bodies, LRP ICP-SR ESC, Hitec Lynx 3D radio gear, Losi tires and lots of DuraTrax "green" parts.

You can find the pictures at http://teamrcv.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showgall&gid=8

Enjoy!

That's way cool! Thanks.

Finally here's the list of the Top Ten Most wanted Evader ST Parts to have on hand.

1. Front A arms
2. Rear A arms
3. Front Hubs
4. Rear Hubs
5. Idle Gear
6. Front Shock Tower
7. The Bulkhead
8. Spur Gear
9. Rear Shock Tower
10. Front Body mount

Thanks to all who contributed to the list!

Harry

Hank, I did use the online form and I got this response:

I am sorry but we are unable to fulfill your request for more than 10 Duratrax StressTech parts without receiving the problem parts sent to us as required under the warranty.

We offer this site support as an additional courtesy to our customers who have had a problem with one or two parts to save them the time and effort of having to send the items to us for service; however, when a customer's vehicle has this extensive damage, we must ask that the parts be sent to us or, if you prefer, the entire vehicle so that we can service it for you under the warranty if it is a warranty failure.

Please visit http://www.hobbyservices.com/ for a service worksheet and information to ease the process of sending your items for service.

Please ship your product to:

Hobby Services
1610 Interstate Drive
Champaign IL 61822

with a brief letter describing the problem you have had and include your proof of purchase and a copy of your receipt from purchase. Our staff will inspect your product and will notify you regarding their findings. If it is found to be a warranty defect, the product will be repaired or replaced at our option at no cost to you. If it is not a failure covered under warranty, you will be notified of your options for return, repair or replacement. Thank you for your patience and, of course, your business.


I actually only ordered six parts. I don't know about the rest of you but Duratrax customer service, or lack thereof, leaves a lot to be desired.

The first batch of parts I ordered from Duratrax I shipped the parts. Since that first shipment I have sent in no additional parts. I talked to a customer rep on the phone and the additional broken parts were sent to me free of charge. Customer service even replaced a broken front shock, driveshaft assembly,and servo saver set none of which are stresstech parts. I have been very pleased with Duratrax and how they took care of my problems. They even overnighted the drive shaft so I could race that weekend. I am sure that Duratrax is flooded with requests. Have you talked to a live person yet sometimes the squeaky wheel gets the grease. Good luck

Live, e-mail, etc., they are all rude. How on earth did you get them to overnight you anything? I overnighted my ESC by Fedex, insured, wrapped, nice box, shipping p-nuts, the works. They mailed me my new ESC parcel post in a non-padded envelope. They told me they use only USPS. Next time I'll just buy a race worthy and track proven RC. Rushing a new product to market in time for Christmas is not doing your customers a favor.

Sorry you have had such bad luck, I was just relaying my experience. I hope you start to have better luck with Duratrax.

Ashilli,

I received the same email you got from Duratrax. I think they have some email bug there, because I ordered 2 parts and the email I reveived was just like yours stating they could not fulfill my order for more than 10 parts and that I needed to return the damaged parts. I only ordered 2!

I replied and noted that in their website parts replacement form it states that customers are not required to return damaged parts and futhermore it doens't specifiy the maximun amount of parts, aside from having only 3 parts selection windows.

The reply worked and they simply ask me to email them a list of the parts I needed and they would ship a.s.a.p.

That was my experience and since your email is basicly exactly like the one I received, I believe they have an automated reply gone haywire.

LOL

I didn't have a problem getting parts from Duratrax. They did send me a email saying some were out of stock, and that they would ship them to me when they became available. They did.

hey hankster i love your evader, but could you put up some pics of it with the body off, i wanna see what it looks like underneath.



also i was wondering if there are any weak spots on the evader i know the one about the first batch being brittle but i meanlike the parts that break most often

thanks,
tyler

Hey Hank, Looking good time to race. One question are those the stock rims? If so you might want to upgrade, I have cracks all over the beads from rocky or tough tracks

My stock rims are pretty beat up as well. I save those for when I'm racing in the street or something like that. I have some Losi rims on the back and they are great... of course :D !!

Hank,

Great looking Evader. What tires are you running....in fact if you can list all the hop ups you have on your ride. It is sweet.

Yeah, those are DuraTrax rims, not worried about breakage as they will be used for racing and that is fairly easy on rims.... I just wanted GREEN!!!!

I'm attaching a pic of the chassis here. It's tore down some, the ESC and transmission is removed. I'm working with DuraTrax to try and figure out why some idler gears are stripping so the tranny is out of it while some things are checked.

The only hopups if you can call them that are
Green ball ends
Green battery strap
Green steering linkage
Green front bumper
Green rear motor guard (removed in pic)
Green rims
White Springs (will most likely change when I get to actually "race" it).
Tires as show are ProLine
Body as shown in other pics is a Losi XXXT MF Fury body

I don't believe the e-mail was any kind of glitch, it was from an actual employee, who I proceeded to reply to. I told her about all of the grief I had been through since purchasing the truck. I received a more resonable reply asking me to send her a list of the parts and they would be mailed out ASAP.

Hey Hankster, great pics of your Evader!!!
Can you recommend rims for off road use, I have some rpm chrome, but not sure if they will be tough enough??? Any sugestions??:thumbsup:

I have always used ProLine rims. Have never broken one yet!

Hankster, which proline rims fit the evader??

ummm the losi ones fit the evader


hey the evader has a lot of hop ups and i was wondering hwich ones are first to get and which ones are best to get

When you mount new tires on chrome rims, do you have to drill some holes for the air to come out?? do you have to do this on all rims??

Any rim made for the Losi XXT/XXXT will fit the Evader. Other then different shock springs and oil, I can see no hopup that is really "needed".

does anyone know if the front brace that duratrax is making for the losi xxt (part dtxc2515) will fit the evader, I asked duaratrx but they said they didn't know...

A friend of mine had saw a aluminum motor guard for the evader. He said that is looked exactly like the stock one, even had the DTX in the middle. Has aney one else seen these around other hobby shops? :thumbsup:

Are you sure it wasn't plastic. The one you show looks just like the plastic ones available from DuraTrax. Why would you want an aluminum one anyways? It would be heavy and get scratched and bent.

:eek: I HAVE A BLUE BUMPER JUST LIKE THAT BUT IT IS PLASTIC. IT SURE DOES LOOK LIKE MINE.

That what I first thought when I had first herd of it. I thought it would get all scratched up and would look bad after time. I’m going to that hobby shop later and I’m going to check it out anyway. I put the picture there because he said that it looked just like the plastic one but made out of aluminum.(the picture is of the plastic bumper) :roll:

I asked Duratrax again about the aluminum front brace that they have and they told me it doesn't fit on the evader...
Do you always have to drill holes on all kinds of rims??

i was trying out my new tires today (duratrax street trac) and I had these two problems:
1.- No traction at all, when I hit full throttle my truck would spin around with out moving forward, just in circles, when I got to move ina straight line it was all over the place no control at all... what should I do??
2.- Because of problem #1 I landed in a puddle and suddenly no power, my truck just died, after a couple a minutes, I could use forward, but it didn't have any punch, and reverse was not working, I noticed a little condensation in the gear cover, still tried to work it, and after a while reverse came back and so did the power... what could have happened?? Did I damage my truck?? I do have my receptor covered, so no water could have gott'in in to it... what do I do?? Please help!!!!

How deep was this puddle? Water and electricty do not mix. The motor should be ok , but speed control, reciver that's where I would start looking. Good luck