This happened to mine.If you are using the stock motor then you arent lubing the bushings.Check to make sure your pinion isnt cramed to the motor there should be some space between the pinion and the motor.If you changed the pinion gear then you could of gone to high.And last but not least make sure you didnt reef the wheels down it will cause bind.

Most likely the ESC is going into failsafe mode. That keeps it from being damaged from over heating. I don't do a lot of forward/reverse running so I haven't noticed it.

I got to run my Evader this weekend. It was great!! I ran it on the parking lot where I work which is huge. After running my Emaxx the last two months it was great to run the Evader. I got great runtimes from my 2400's and best of all it only needs one battery instead of two for the Emaxx. I had double the fun!! I think I will be running the Evader on paved surfaces more then dirt, so I was looking into getting different tires. Anyone have any good suggestions?

When you are replacing the front bulk head is the "bulkhead/chassis hinge pin" suppose to just slide out after you remove the 3mm set screw from the under side of the bulkhead or is there a trick to getting it out?

Thanks

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by Dano:
I got to run my Evader this weekend. It was great!! I ran it on the parking lot where I work which is huge. After running my Emaxx the last two months it was great to run the Evader. I got great runtimes from my 2400's and best of all it only needs one battery instead of two for the Emaxx. I had double the fun!! I think I will be running the Evader on paved surfaces more then dirt, so I was looking into getting different tires. Anyone have any good suggestions?</font>

You might want to take a look a the Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs. I just ordered a full set for my Evader. These are good for all-around bashing, on and off-road.

Here's a link where you can see a picture http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p.pgm

They're on special I think...

[This message has been edited by Harry_PR (edited 02-24-2002).]

Strikers are a popular on-road tire.

If you use the Dirt Hawgs on all four wheels, would the gear ratio have to be changed? Because they are a taller tire, I think.

Thanks for the tire suggestions. Anyone running motors other then stock? I feel like tinkering and am wondering which motor I should get. I am looking for a little more speed, but I don't want to sacrifice too much runtime.

A 19 turn Speed Gems should be a good motor.

Get the Losi T-90 road tires. We use them to parking lot race trucks and they HOOK UP (we use soft compound).

Can I use the stock pinion and spur gear, or should I change the ratio. Do I have to worry the new motor could damage anything in the stock gear box?

The gear box is a known weak area of the Evader, so a more powerful motor could cause it to fail. We are looking for a fix for the gearbox. I would keep the gearing as is and check the motor to see if it gets too hot.

If you're not very particular about performance, Duratrax makes a set of street tires for 1/10 scale trucks called the "Street Trac". They are hard rubber and they last nearly forever.

http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/tires2.html

Hank,

Will the stock Sprint ESC be able to handle a 19T motor?

Dano, While I haven't actually tried it, I would suspect that it will handle a 19T motor.

I read the Sprint speed control is for 20-27 turn motors. I guess I could get away with a 19T at least for awhile http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif I really like the Evader the more I drive it. I have gotten a itch to build a kit however. I could build the hopups in from the start that way. I was considering a B3. I could also spend the money on hopping up the Evader. It probably would be cheaper to upgrade the Evader, but..... Hhhmmmm confused, must have RC fever, any suggestions?

Ive had a B3 and a evader at the same time but can you handle a B3!!!lol, good combo.

At this point I think my wife would kill me if I bought another one http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/wink.gif

Anybody else invest in upgrades for the Evader? If so which ones?

Hank, what do you or anyone else know about the Duratrax ESC-100? This is the replacement Duratrax sent me for my defective Sprint. I have pasted below the response from the Duratrax tech in case anyone was curious about their own Sprint.


"A different speed control is being sent out to you, which should help your difficulties. The DuraTrax Sprint speed control has been found to have issues if the car is moving too fast forward when reverse is applied. This puts a tremendous strain upon the circuitry, and can burn out the reverse transistors. Eventually, the damage to the circuit board can affect the forward transistors.

The new speed control should cure your difficulties. You do not have to return the bad Sprint speed control."

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by ashilli:
Hank, what do you or anyone else know about the Duratrax ESC-100? This is the replacement Duratrax sent me for my defective Sprint. I have pasted below the response from the Duratrax tech in case anyone was curious about their own Sprint.


"A different speed control is being sent out to you, which should help your difficulties. The DuraTrax Sprint speed control has been found to have issues if the car is moving too fast forward when reverse is applied. This puts a tremendous strain upon the circuitry, and can burn out the reverse transistors. Eventually, the damage to the circuit board can affect the forward transistors.

The new speed control should cure your difficulties. You do not have to return the bad Sprint speed control."

</font>

How do I order a new ESC? The on line order form on the Duratrax web site does not offer this option. Please reply. Thanks

i am sorry ASHILLI, i thought this place e-maiuled you like rc car action does lol. the stock esc works great with the 17 turn,i have had to use it because i started my futaba mc330cr on fire, i love the bumper,it makes it look so much like a losi. the stock esc must be 1 togh thing because it held up better than my futaba with a 13 turn limir

Dano
Member
Posts: 57
Registered: Dec 2001
posted 02-25-2002 07:49
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for the tire suggestions. Anyone running motors other then stock? I feel like tinkering and am wondering which motor I should get. I am looking for a little more speed, but I don't want to sacrifice too much runtime.

i run a 17 turn speed gems motor,usually with my futaba mc330cr but the stock esc doesnt even get warm with the 17 turn and 19/88 gearing btw,i get a 7 1/2 minute run time with a 1700 not peaked

DANO,DANO,DANO hey i just found this place lol,i have an evader w/ dirt hawgz,blue battery strap,yellow front bumper, the hpi mesh mt rims,aluminum braces on back order,futaba mc330cr,rebuilt shocks w/new springs and 10wt,speed gems 17 turn sapphire,MVP, this is soooo fun to drive. btw,ive broken two bulkheads,1 brace,two body mounts and 1 chassis. keep on drivin peace

VWBug, If your ESC is bad, email DuraTrax for info on getting it replaced. There is a link on how to contact them on their web site.

If info is needed on the ESC-100, go to Tower Hobbies web site and do a search on the word esc-100

[This message has been edited by hankster (edited 03-03-2002).]

Hankster, What if any mods are there for the Evader trany. I have rebuilt the ball diff, and had to tighten the allen screw quite a bit just to keep it from slipping. It seemed excessive to me. When rotating the wheels it feels like grating sand. Not good. are there hardened diff balls, Am I way off base and this is the way it should be.

Most likely you need new parts for your diff. Every time you rebuild a diff you should change the balls and rings. DuraTrax makes carbide diff/thrust balls. IMHO, they are not worth the extra cost.

I did all that. I replaced all diff rings, balls, and other parts. I got the kit from Duratrax. I also was very careful about being clean. Will the carbide balls make it feel smoother or am I just being anal about this.

The proper way to start the diff adjustment is to tighten down the diff screw until it is tight. Back off the screw about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. This will get you real close. You should be able to spin one wheels and the other wheel will spin in the opposite direction. Now run it on a high traction surface, you should not hear the diff slipping.

Depending on the quality of the balls, the carbide ones could be smoother. You did put diff lube on the balls didn't you?

Hank, Bluelight,

I'm in the same boat... I've ordered the Duratrax rebuild kit and a new diff gear. I'll be rebuilding mine this week.

My question is did i get good diff grease and how much do i use.. This is what i got

"HPI Heavyweight Grease (Diff Gear) FEATURES: This is a high density grease formulated for differential gears"

Before I took mine apart it was very very gritty when I would spin the wheels with car off ground, sometimes the opposite wheel would not spin.. The main diff gear looks good, as did most the parts except for the plastic piece that keeps the nylock nut from spinning had broken tabs. Probably from me trying to tighten in too much?

Hi you guys with Evaders and dont have a aluminum brace yet go to www.racers-edge.com (http://www.racers-edge.com) and order a front hinge pin brace for the Losi XXT 7bucks and you will be amazed with how much stronger your truck will be.The plastic hinge pin brace doesnt hold like it shouldand when you hit something hard and it is a bit cold out side it doesnt hold then it breaks and it sends a chain reaction to the rest of the front end.Thats why the bulkhead-upper brace-battery hold down locator section breaks.

Evader breakage update! running at Larry's last night full speed end of straightaway t-boned a T3. End result Evader a-ok NO Damage! T3 Rear turnbuckle, shocktower, and A-arm. Since the replacement parts have been installed on my truck I have broke nothing. I should find some wood to knock on. Keep in mind My first outing with the Evader Broke,chasis,front shock tower,front shock,bulkhead,and top brace. Seems to be down right reliable now. where's that wood again.

congrats bluelight.Check out the aluminum brace it is worth it.

2nd,

What is the part number of the brace you are talking about? I seen bulk head braces? Are these the ones?

Yes it is the same thing trust me it will be the best 7 dollars you spend on your truck.

I rebuilt the diff on our evader and a friends. I do all the work on his, both trannys looked good. (I tightened both diffs when new) I didn't put any new parts in, just cleaned them and put in asc grease. the trick is I belive, to sand the discs. I used a india stone similar to a knife sharpening stone but more coarse. If you use sand paper make sure something very flat is under it like glass and turn the disc many times. The stock one weren't very flat.Man what a difference, I think I could run it a half turn lose after it's tight,But I ran it a 1/4 turn loose,It was soo smooth. I made a little diff stand like niftecs but a couple screw drivers would work to check how tight it is out of the tranny. Associated diff rings will work good,I measured them there within .005, tc3 ones I don't know if the truck ones are the same.

Hey 22racer good info I will try it next time I rebuild the diff. What about Carbide diff balls? Did you include them in your rebuild?

Rebuilt mine over the weekend with the Duratrax rebuild kit and a new Diff gear. WOW !!!! It feels nice and smooth now.. One question though, I've got it adjusted pretty tight and if i spin one wheel slow the other spin's in the opposite direction, which it should do. But if i spin it fast, the other wheel will spin in the same direction. What could cause this. I've not had a chance to run it yet, is maybe the slipper too loose?

Thanks!

David, Sounds about right. Most likely the slipper is slipping or the motor is turning over. A "fast" spin will do that sometimes.

Thanks Hank! :thumbsup:

I have not been able to access the www.racers-edge.com website Is there another placer where I can find the $7 XXT aluminum bulkhead that fits the Evader? Thank you for your help.

Adnorin

Hi, I just got my first rc, and it's the evader, now I'm in the process of making it look k, I would appreciate if you could give me some info on where to get bumpers for my truck, and I wanted to know of the hop up and parts for the xxt losi will fit on the evader, thanks....

Generally stadium trucks like the Evader don't have bumpers other then what they come with. It's my understanding that the XXT A arms fit the Evader, not sure of what else fits. DuraTrax has some hop ups available for it.

Does anyone know if there are bodies that fit the evader....
thanks for the input....

hello guys im new here

i like the evader st but i have heard that they break very easily

i really like them though because the come stock with so many hop ups

ok i already had a traxxas rustler which was really crappy and it is at the hobby shop on consinment so when it sells i was going to get the new losi xxx-nt sport, but instead i was thinking of getting the evader and getting the losi later. is this a wize decision because i like electric and nitro so. also i was wonder what other companies make hop ups for the evader other than duratrax.

i cant get the track parts link to work to see that one guys hopped up evader on the first page so can someone help me out

thanks,
tyler

FYI on how good the evader is, John Drawe, a local racer at Larry's Performance R/C'S in Commerce Twp. near Detroit, puts an Evader in the A main regularly and I think all he has done is change tires, oils and stuff and a servo. He is an experienced racer and it shows how good the truck is and what driving can do. Practice, Practice, Practice. I hope his 11 year old daughter doesn't want her truck back soon. :) I know Larry sells his RTR for $162. Once you buy one you don't have to hop it up! Save your money for support stuff. :thumbsup:

True Tyler the Evader has a bad rap as fragile. I on my first outing broke two bulkheads and the chasis! repaired that and raced @ Larrys missed the double and broke front a arm, top brace, front shock,front shock mount. Very disapointing but. I got all my replacement parts Duratrax free of charge customer service was very understanding. Ever since I installed the new parts NO Breakage!!!!!! :thumbsup: Many new models have some growing pains. I hope you decide to give the Evader a chance. I think you will be suprised. I think Hankster will also be racing one this season. I look forward to his Review/hop ups/tips. Good luck

TYLER, The parts on the first Evaders that came out were made improperly and they broke easily. DuraTrax replaces any part that brakes and the new parts are much more durable.

Hankster,
We finally had tranny touble. We stripped the idler gear, it had a crack in it too. All the idler gears in the hobby shop (losi or asc.)were 28 teeth Evader ones are 29 I believe. It's the first time we've had it off road, we were racing oval before. I'm not sure how loose the slipper was I think the jarring after landing from a jump is hard on it. The rest of the truck held up great though, it did lots of flips.

It seems the idler is a weak spot in the tranny. I'm looking to find a fix but it will take getting a custom idler shaft made.