It's great that you can now order parts online. The form wants a transmitter serial number and I can't find one anywhere. Looks like there used to be a sticker on the back, but only a small piece of one of the corners is left - is the transmitter serial # required in order to get replacement parts?

I guess it can't hurt to try to submit the form without one and see what happens.

No problem Harry. I'm really glad I took a little time to contact DuraTrax because I was honestly a little worried what kind of problems I was going to encounter when I started running my truck again this spring. They did a wonderful job of listening to their customers and are trying to make things easier for us to get replacement parts. It is awfully hard to get good customer service from anyone anymore so I am very happy with the service I've received from DuraTrax.

All I was able to find was a serial number on the car. looking near the on/off swith located on the ESC. So that is what i put on the form.

I sent my reciver from my Evader into get fixed. The truck came out of the box with electrical problems so I was told by many including Duratrax that the problem has to do with the reciver so I sent it in to get fixed. I just got it back and there turns out to be that there is noting wrong with it. I dont know whats wrong now.
Hereis the problem: The truck only works when I get the trucks anntenia and the transmitters anntenia within inch's of each other when I move it away it does not work.
Whats going on here its not the reciver Duratrax tested it when I sent it in. Mabye the transmitter I dont know. Any help would be great. e-mail:eatond@earthlink.net send wht you think to my e-mail address. Thanks.

[This message has been edited by Nate25 (edited 01-25-2002).]

I would guess it is the transmitter then. I've learned long ago never to assume anything, send both back at once this time as it could the transmitter or either of the crystals.

It says on the Duratrax website to put the serial number on the back of the ESC.

Wow - sure does. Yesterday when I submitted my parts request, it asked for my transmitter s/n.

I put in 'none' and got a reply from them that they'd be sending parts in 8-10 days.

abd to think, i was about to go buy a team losi or ae because of how easy my evader broke.

Hey, does anybody know if wheels from the Associated T3 would fit on the evader? I know the tires would fit but I want to know about the wheels in particular.

I found possible good buy on some used tires and wheels but I can't try them on the evader to see if they fit.

Thanks for the help!

TRA

Scrambler,
They will go on fine, but make the truck handle poorly. Losi wheels are in tune with the axle length.

Scrambler,
They will go on fine, but make the truck handle poorly. Losi wheels are in tune with the axle length.

Can running too high of a pinon rewin the comm? Because I looked at mine and the comm is chiped in two places.

OK, you lost me there..... "In tune with the axle length?" What does that mean?

So, how well can tires that are glued on come off and still be able to be used again? I have heard that you can boil them off. Does that totally screw up the properties of the tires? I am just trying to get a few extra sets of tires(and wheels) so that I have some for street running and extras for when I am just screwing around.

there is a hard blue gloopy thing on my armature that i don't think is susposed to be there. it is on the side of the pinion gear. can someone tell me what this is and if it isn't susposed to be there how to remove it.

I just received my first batch of replacement parts from Duratrax. Eight days from when I submitted the parts request form.

Hey! I got my parts,too! Only took about an hour and I was up and running again - first time since Christmas. It feels GREAT!

Many thanks to the kind folks at DuraTrax who have used the power of the Net to provide the BEST possible solution to an unfortunate situation. You guys are great!

Just ordered an IntelliPeak Twin Pulse Charger, too . . .

. . . OK, well I kinda had to because I also bought an E-Maxx while I was waiting for Evader parts. . .

Scrambler,

Losi and AE wheels have different offsets. That is the hub sits deeper in the AE, which would make the centerline of your tires closer together narrowing the trucks width. They will work but Losi wheels will work better. As for getting your tires off the AE wheels, find someone with a T3 and sell them your tires. Glued tires are hard to remove.

Topkart23,

The goopey looking stuff, is it hard? If so it may be epoxy used to balance the armature. If so either Duratrax is putting in nice motors or you have a hand wound motor.

Hank, I saw in this thread that the ESC can handle any turn motor, is this true? What I read on the Duratrax website is that the Sprint will only handle down to 20T. What is the scoop?
Also, when hopping up to aluminum parts, what are you seeing on this truck as a must have and will replacing the original part cause problems, ie aluminum piece being to rigid and transfering energy of impact to weaker ( and probably more expensive LOL) part? Please advise. By the way great review, it really helped me in my decision. Cool thread too.

The ESC can NOT handle any motor. I'd stick with DuraTrax's recommendations of no less then 20 turns. Since the aluminum parts are still not available I have not been able to try any of them. The only thing I am going to get is the aluminum front brace.

Hank, HPI has some tires and wheels that fit the Evader. They are the Dirt Hawg M2 compound truck tires and the V-Groove tires. What would be the best setup for dirt track racing? M2 in rear and V-Groove up front?

Does anyone know if Duratrax has any licensed dealers that do warranty work for them, like you would do with your mower? I hate the idea of having to disable my truck and mail off part of it and wait who knows how long to get it back.

Any 2.2" stadium truck tires will fit the Evader rims. The most popular are made by Pro-Line and Losi. 99% of offroad racers use one of those brands. You need to find out from those that race at your track which tires work best as each track is different.

Can anyone tell me what motor would faster than the Photon Speed motor? I use my Evader for back yard bashing. It has to work with the stock ESC.

Just about any "modified" motor will be faster. The motor provided with the Evader is about the same speed as a "stock" motor.

If you happen to need help replacing parts on your Evader, DuraTrax has a detailed assembly guide that you can download and print out. It explains how to replace many of the parts on the Evader. You can find it at http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/dtxc0020-assembly-guide.pdf

My issue is with the ESC itself. I shipped it to them today. Hopefully I will get the replacement soon.

How are the new parts working, Are they stronger? I had to order 8 parts they got here in 3 days, but the bulkhead I made is so strong i hate to try the replacement.

hey i just found this place lol,i have an evader w/ dirt hawgz,blue battery strap,yellow front bumper,rpm talonz for xxt,aluminum braces on back order,futaba mc330cr,rebuilt shocks w/new springs and 10wt,speed gems 17 turn sapphire,MVP, this is soooo fun to drive. btw,ive broken two bulkheads,1 brace,two body mounts. keep on drivin peace

22Racer,

Did you order your parts through hobbico (warrantee replacement) or a hobby shop? 3 days seems like great turnaround time to me if it as from hobbico. My replacement stuff from hobbico/duratrax has taken at least 8 days at a minimum. (Shipping to Southern Cal) Whereas shipping time from tower or similar online shop has been much faster.

Speaking of which does anybody know of a better/other place to order stuff online besides towerhobbies? I am always looking for alternatives, just in case. My LHS is kind of slow to respond to my requests for evader parts, although they have helped me with non evader parts stuff quite well. Like a different servo arm than the one from duratrax that keeps breaking. They found an Associated one that fits just fine and (according to them) won't break.

TRA

Ok, bear with me guys. The Evader is the first RC vehicle I've ever owned and I know squat about these things. I've been running this thing up curbs, through the grass, and it's held up with no problems until now. On my 3rd run I have a problem. The car wouldn't move or would move very slowly. The motor seems to be spinning fine and the little arm coming out of the motor into the small gear/wheel seems to be spinning fine (like I said, I'm new at this... stop laughing!). The problem I see is that the arm thingy that goes into the small gear (I think it's part #80 in the installation directions) just spins away inside the gear. Sometimes it catches inside the gear so the small gear does rotate, but other times it doesn't catch, so the small gear doesn't rotate. My question is, there's a small hole on the gear that looks like a screw of some sort should be on it. I'm not sure, but right now it's as if the litte motor arm thingy is too small for the gear and it just keeps spinning inside it without actually turning the gear. And of course if that gear isn't turning, then the car isn't gonna move.

Do I need a new part #80? http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

IT, It sounds like to me the set screw in the pinion gear has come loose. The shaft coming out of the motor is the armature shaft. It goes into the pinion gear (part #80). The armature shaft has a flat spot on it and the set screw should tighten onto that flat spot and hold the pinion gear into place.

If the pinion gear is that loose, you should be able to pull it right off with your fingers and you will see the flat spot on the shaft.

If the set screw is missing out of the pinion gear you should be able to get one at a local hobby store or hardward store. They are normally 4-40 or 5.40 in size.

Thanks Hank. I see a place for the screw, but no screw. I'm assuming it flew off during one of my runs. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/frown.gif

I guess it could be a lot worse, so I won't complain. I think this vehicle is awesome, but I'm already getting the newbie pangs that yearn for a nitro. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif

[This message has been edited by ITBandit (edited 02-10-2002).]

jdm3849- your Evader sounds hot. Are you still running the ESC it came with? How does the yellow bumper look? I am thinking of getting one too. Do you have any pics of your hopped up ride?

Scrambler, they were the replacements from hobby services, I live in minnesota though. Anytime I order from the west coast it always takes alot longer. I made a really trick aluminum rear chassis plate it really stiffened the rear like Hank said.I even had to change the rear holes in the body becase the stock one is so flimsy.I'm working on a titanium copy of the universal dogbone axels.

Hank, I am thinking about upgrading my motor and ESC on my Evader. What are some of my better options, within a reasonable amount, say $70 for the ESC and under $50 for the motor. Also do you feel, with the right adjustments the Evader has any chance to be a contender, in the right hands, at a serious race?

I've had my evader for alittle while...took it out to our clubs indoor track for the first time last weekend. During practice I hit one of the barriers, I wasn't going too fast but I cracked the Front Bulk head...well I made quick repair job with some super glue and about 45 minutes later I was back on the track practicing. I ran into the back of another truck and broke the Front Bulk head in 3 places(including the first one), the Front Brace, one of the Front Hub Carrier things and cracked the Front Bumber.

From what I've heard(I haven't read this whole thread) on other forums is that the Front Bulk Head seems to be giving everyone the most problems, is there anyway to make them stronger or more durable?

I also heard that alot of the Losi XXT parts fit the Evader, I was wondering if anyone knew which exact parts and what there product #'s are?

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide me.

Evdrguy. Go to www.duratrax.com (http://www.duratrax.com) and order some replacements first of all. They are replacing stresstech parts free of charge and without sending the parts in. Secondly, read their tips about boiling parts to make them stronger. new parts shouldn't require this but you may want to do it on some of your existing parts.

[This message has been edited by brucestyves (edited 02-13-2002).]

brucestyves - Thanks, I've already ordered the replacement parts...from what I hear it's going to be ALONG time before I accually see them. I didn't know about the boiling thing though, where abouts on the Duratrax site is it...i can't seem to find it?

Any idea about any of the Losi XXT stuff?

Dom


[This message has been edited by evdrguy (edited 02-13-2002).]

Here you go..straight off the Duratrax web site.

"Why do I keep breaking parts in cold weather?
Cold temperatures cause all plastic and nylon parts to become more brittle and break easier. If you plan on running your vehicle in cold weather (below 45 degrees F), you may experience parts breaking easier than under normal operating conditions. If you must run in cold temperatures below 45 degrees F, one option to help limit breakage and increase the toughness of nylon parts (chassis, suspension arms, bulkheads, etc.) is by disassembling the vehicle and boiling only the nylon parts for 2 hours. This will cause the nylon parts to be more flexible than usual. Wait for the nylon parts to cool completely before reassembling. This will not solve all problems in cold weather running. If you have additional concerns please e-mail us on this web site."

I also got this same idea from one of the product engineers at Duratrax as an e-mail reply to my concerns about parts breaking. The guy was very helpful and said that some of the parts were not properly hydrated when they were made and boiling will restore some of the lost moisture/flexibility to the parts. I have smashed my Evader numberous times head on into stuff and not broken anything up front...guess I got a good batch:-) It only took about a week for me to get replacement parts...guess it just depends if the stuff is in stock.

As far as XXT parts I printed out the manual for the XXT off of the losi website and it looks like stuff like the A-Arms, rear shock tower, front body mount and the hubs may all be interchangable. I've been trying to find someone with a rolling chassis for a XXT cheap so I could try interchanging all of the parts to see what works...no luck yet though.

[This message has been edited by brucestyves (edited 02-13-2002).]

Some of the original Evader parts were not made properly and thus are breaking easily. The replacement parts are suppose to right. DuraTrax has parts in stock and it should only take you a week to get them.

I NOTICED THE CHASSIS OF THE EVADER WAS A LITTLE SPRINGY. SO I TOOK A PART OF STIFF FLAT STEEL (LIKE PART OF A HACKSAW BLADE) AND MOUNTED IT WITH SOME SMALL BOLTS ON EITHER SIDE. IT HAS SEEMED TO HAVE MADE THE TRUCK MORE CONSISTANT ON JUMPS AND MYBE A LITTLE MORE RELIABLE.
I HAVE BAD LUCK WITH THE EVADER UNTIL TODAY. MY NEW PARTS CAME IN AND I GAVE IT PURE HE!!.

Hank, Within the next 2 weeks I will be purchasing either a Traxxas Rustler or a Duratrax Evader. I was originally set on the evader due to the use of bearings throughout the vehicle, however I am now beginning to question this due to all of this talk about "breakage". At this time which vehicle do you think would be the best value?

The first production units had plastic parts that were not properly made. From what I understand, all new Evaders have the "right" parts on them. The properly made parts are much stronger and I have not heard of any major breakage problem with them.

If a part does break, Duratrax will replace it free!!

Hi Hank!
Just to let you know how it went with my new Evader.

At first I was a little bit worried about it being too fragile, due to the many reports by other members about their Evaders breaking to easy.

My test area was on my parents front yard. It has more than 100' of straight way and it's about 40' wide. Since it's a drive way there's a long cement road and the rest is short grass.

One of the coolest thing I found out in my test drives is the long run times of the stock Evader. I got a cool more than 10 minutes of run time with a Panasonic 1700mah 6 cell pack. About 8 of those minutes where with good "get up n'go".

After my first pack of sunday driving to avoid breaking something and getting used to the handling, I set forth to do some risk taking. At first just full throttle runs with tight turns and switching from the grass to cement (Tricky because handling and traction changes), basicly wild driving trying to see how controllable it was. I'm very happy with the results. It was highly controllable even though I was running the factory rear tires on the cement. It did fish tale a little but those rear tires are not ment for concrete surfaces. Still it wasn't bad enough to make me loose control.

Lastly I re-charged the battery and got a 4'x3' piece of 1/4" plywood to make a custom jump ramp. At first I set the ramp about 1' high so as not to let it fly too high and crack something on the landing. Oh, just if your wondering, I set the ramp on the grassy area, not in the cement :-). The Evader handled the jumps beautifully. The landings were right, not too high on the front and not nose diving either. A bit nose heavy but not a real problem.

On my last run with the ramp, I lifted the ramp to about 2' height. At full speed the Evader flew about 6 or 7 feet with very good landings.

On the ruff side. On several jumps that I entered the ramp a little off centered the Evader landed on it side but not enough to turn over. These landings were hard, but at the end and after inspecting it, I found no damage. I also crashed about two or three times with various hard surfaces. First with a small tree. There it took the impact on the right front suspension system, but it held well.

Well, got to go..

Harry

I JUST RECENTLY GOT MY EVADER RUNNING AGAIN AND AFTER A FEW CHASSIS MODIFICATIONS THE EVADER IS GREAT. I EVEN WON 2 A-MAIN MODIFIED RACES WITH IT. THE MODIFACTIONS INCLUDE A NEW MOTOR (BOUGHT IT USED FOR $15) THE MOTOR IS A TEAM ALTECH WITH ADJ. TIMING. DON'T KNOW MUCH ABOUT MOTORS.
THE ESC REMAINS STOCK. I RENFORCED THE CHASSIS. THE ONLY PROBLEM IS WITH THE NOSE BEING TOO HEAVY. IT NOSED DIVED ALOT. ANY HINTS ON HOW TO CORRECT THIS.
BEFORE THE RACE I TOOK ALOT OF VERY HARD CRASHES. FLIPPING ANY WAY IT POSSIBLY COULD. I ONLY BROKE THE MOTOR GARD BECAUSE SOMEONE RAN INTO THE BACK OF ME ON PIT SIDE.
I NEED SOME TIPS ON SPRING SELECTION ON SHOCK OIL FOR A ROUGH TRACK. THE TRUCK BOUNCES ALOT. I LOVE THE EVADER I AM GOING TO BUY ANOTHER ONE FOR MY WIFE.

ARMYMANJAMES,

Did you try moving the battery pack farther toward the back? Cut the spacer in half and try it.

Our offroad tuning guide has some quick tips for tuning. You can find it at http://teamrcv.com/article.php?sid=51

You'll need to get lighter springs for the shocks, DuraTrax makes some that fit the Evader. I haven't had a lot of time to do tuning, but I suspect it will also need heavier shock oil. I would suggest 30 to 40 weight oil as that is what is normally used.

Hey evader owners go read the XXT idler hank posted youll find what I posted interesting!!!

Hank, I just had my Duratrax Sprint ESC replaced by Duratrax and the new one is doing exactly what the old one was. Whenever the truck is run in reverse and then quickly run forward the ESC shuts off. This problem occurs sporadically throughout the life of the battery so I do not think it involves the battery running low. What do you make of this?