Olin, what went out in the tranny the second time?

Hey guys, this is probably a simple one to answer, but I am wondering what aftermarket bodies will fit Evaders? I don't really like the clear body Duratrax offeres because it is pretrimmed and doesn't have overspray film on it. There isn't much to choose from at my LHS to try for fit so I am hoping you can help and none of the mfg's list stuff specifically for the Evader yet. Do the bodies for T3's or other trucks fit this one? Thanks all!!

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by hankster:
Olin, what went out in the tranny the second time?</font>


Checking it out tonight. I'll let you know. Thank you for your interest and help.

Losi XXT bodies should fit with no problem. My guess is that XXXT bodies will fit too, but I haven't tried them.

Hankster,
Again the idler. That is two idler gears and one diff. rebuild, including diff gear, after only twelve or thirteen runs. What do you think is happening? My patience is wearing thin. I like tinkering with the truck but this is getting out of hand.

I will have to say one thing though. I just received my Evader option parts from Tower today. They are all yellow with yellow Losi rims and the purple body. Man, it is a good looking ride despite the mechanical problems I have been having. Alas, looks don't win races.


[This message has been edited by olin (edited 01-09-2002).]

[This message has been edited by olin (edited 01-09-2002).]

Its here!

Well I got my Evader in Monday and have had a chance to run about 4 packs through it. Since it is my first "real" R/C vehicle, (Do Radio Shack cars count as R/C vehicles?) I don't have a lot to compare to, but damn it is so much smoother than my other car. Our local track is kinda far away so I don't know when I will get a chance to give it a go over there, but as soon as I can I will try it out on the track.

Only thing that I broke on my first day was the antenna tube. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/wink.gif I am trying to learn to control it better before I get too daring. That is one thing that my other R/C vehicle can do is take a LOT of beating. The car has a huge front bumper on it and I have run it numerous times (not on purpose mind you) into solid ojects at top speed and it bounces off. Probably screwed up my driving techniques for months.

My differential was tight upon arrival. I have noticed that the car seems to be making a slight hissing sound after three packs or so that it did not make out of the box. I read here that at least one other truck seems to be doing this. Is that sound normal? (I know that you can't hear it, of course) The car has/did not get any slower, but I would not want to be screwing anything up this early in the game. I cleaned it up last night and it still makes that noise.

Anyhow, I will keep you all posted as I get time. I need another time/money consuming hobby like I need a hole in the head but dang this is FUN!

TRA

[This message has been edited by Scrambler (edited 01-09-2002).]

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by hankster:
Losi XXT bodies should fit with no problem. My guess is that XXXT bodies will fit too, but I haven't tried them.</font>I have tried the XXXT body.It fits and looks awesome on the Evader.I will be getting a Matt F. body as soon as it is time.I also know what is causing the idler gear to fail!!!It is the top shaft.I got a new Robinson Ti topshaft for my FTB3,And a aluminum idler from HG and after I was done with the conversion I took my Evader apart to see how the trans looked inside.I noticed that my idler was wearing and matched it to the topshaft and thats where the wear pattern came from.One other thing I noticed is the idler is the exact same size as a Associated.The only problem is the bearing size.My b3 idler is in brand new shape and I figured if the bearings fit it,It is going into the Evader.
So the bearings didnt fit so on to the top shaft.It looks darn close!Maybe a Ti Robinson top-shaft is going in the Evader too????I think the way the Duratrax top-shaft is machined it is too sharp and not rounded at the tips or or beveled in any way.I dont have the money to experiment right this second but I WILL try it next week beings I have a spare top shaft and idler.Oh yeah the plastic likes CA glue my top brace in front is glued and it is holding strong!I changed to the Losi XXt frnt bulkhead and did the zip tie thing and it is solid too????I think Im gonna leave it alone for awhile til I get a alum. frnt brace and new bulkhead.The Losi part is way better.They dont skimp on material.

Let us know how that top shaft/gear setup fits. This would be a great tip for other Evader owners.

When my dad called tower and told them about the idler gear, tehy told him that they would send us all of the gears in the gear box for free. What pinion would u suggest with a speed gem 19t double for more speed. I want to beat my cousins maximum mt. I also would like to know a good pinion for more torque. For just something to play around with this summer. Drag race cars with fast pinion and do wheelies with torque pinion.

Second day update:

The servo brace broke today right where the battery strap attachment point/nipple thing is. Machine still runs OK but dangit this sucks.

I went ahead and ordered a couple of hopups and the new server brace and will return the broken one to Duratrax for replacement when I get the chance. I was driving mostly on rough dirt (2 packs) with small jumps when the brace broke.

I have had a couple of medium speed collisions now and nothing has broken from them (Knock on wood) So that much I am glad of.

I hope that top shaft idea helps some people save some idler gears, time and money.
The Evader is going on the back burner for now. I am picking up the Factory T3 on Friday. Wish I would have put the $170.00 in a more secure purchase, oh well. Good luck Duratrax with this revolutionary notion.

A couple of quick questions here:

How can you tell if your idler gears are going bad? The car won't idle(i.e. standstill)? Or is there some strange noise or what?

Also, how can you tell that the differential is being burned up or abused? Sounds? Car behaviour? Or what?

Thanks for your help for this newbie.

TRA

[This message has been edited by Scrambler (edited 01-10-2002).]

Finally!!! A 50+ degree day to run the Evader around in the backyard. This is the first opportunity I have had since I bought it almost a month ago to try it in the great outdoors. Every other day was too cold, or snow was on the ground, and I didn't want to take any chances. The Evader did well. I only had a 1500 pack in it. I got about 5 min runtime. I was going full throttle pretty much the whole time though. I was pleased that the motor, and the ESC were cool to the touch after my run. The battery was a little warm though. I read somewhere that running in grass may actually decrease run time. Anyone else hear this? I can understand if it does. The Evader didn't get great traction, but it still moved out pretty good. Best of all...nothing broke. The backyard is pretty bumpy, and as I read in several reviews the Evader gets bounced around quite a bit. Still was fun!!

Scrambler, If the idler gear strips, the truck won't move. The motor turns but the output drives to the wheels don't. The idler gear is a small gear in the transmission.

Dano, Yes, running in grass can decrease run time because grass has a lot of drag. Trucks like the Evader are really made to run on groomed dirt surfaces.

Dano,

If you don't have a track near by use a baseball diamond. Use cans rocks or whatever to lay out some kind of course to get you used to going left and right.

Your run time should improve as you will be using less full throttle.

Hank,

Thanks for your great review of the Evader. Since this is my first posting it might be long, I'll try to keep it spiffy. I've been researching these past few days in search of a good R/C deal. I'm not new to R/C, been around for more than 15 years. But the past couple of years I've been disconnected from the newest stuff.

Now I decided to get back to R/C. The little I know about R/C trucks have come from the many hours spent reading R/C mags & building R/C's for a LHS in peak time. Got to work with Losi, AE, Traxxas, Tamiya, Kyosho and the likes. I did own a few trucks, but all were entry level, like the blackfoot, traxxas sledgehammer, hawk and some others not worth mentioning. You could say I like to see the underdog win.

It's true that the high performance & expensive trucks are build lighter, tougher and faster than the entry level. But you could go along way if you set your mind to it and practice. For instance with the sledgehammer I had and after replacing the oem chassis with a homemade aluminum one to lower the center of gravity for stability, and running on road low profile tires, I managed to take six first place races (on-road) in modified class. Racing against Losi, AE and similar type trucks.

Practice makes even the underdog win. So now as a comeback and after reading your evader review, I'm convinced it's a good deal. I just ordered one, got it in auction a little cheaper and don't have to wait for towers backorder.

Good luck to all Evader riders! I'll post my humble review in a couple of weeks. Maybe even a picture link.

L8R Hank! Great site!

Harry

[This message has been edited by Harry_PR (edited 01-11-2002).]

[This message has been edited by Harry_PR (edited 01-11-2002).]

[This message has been edited by Harry_PR (edited 01-11-2002).]

Good to see you here Harry. I've long been a fan of saving money by not buying worthless hop-ups and just going out and have fun. The first thing out of many peoples mouths is “what hop-ups should I buy”. In the vast majority of cases, kits now-a-days don’t need hop-ups. I always recommend they just go out and have fun with it. If they want eye-candy, that’s one thing, but most of what is on the market has little to no improvement in performance (other then batteries, motors and engines).

Let us know how it goes!

I got my speed gems 19t double. It i ssweet. I also picked up a 21 tooth pinion. I can;t wait unil the snow clear off o f the roads so i can test out the speed.

Consumer1

If you are worried about breakage look through all of these posts and weed out all of the instances of someone ramming an object at full to half throttle. I am not blaming the drivers but I would have to say that this truck is used for backyard bashing far more than a high end truck (Losi and AE). There is a lot more opportunities to break something when you are not on a track. If I were getting into R/C this is the truck I would buy for fun. Racing is a different story but I would still consider it. I have a Losi XXT and run against an Evader and I am very impressed with this truck. Performance vs value.

Ameittunan:
A 21t pinion might be a little high for the 19turn motor. The Evader comes with an 18t and I would try that first. That will give you an apples to apples comparison on the motor. he 21t pinion will give you higher top speed but it will take you longer to get there. It will also make your motor run hotter and provide less runtime.

I had another break today and it was the right rear arm.It was on the track.I used the stock (rear) tires because the track was loamy that day and they have zero side support due to the sorry foams they put it the tires.They get great straightline traction but thats it.Turn and your done.Gonna get all the arms from Losi's XX to put on it and see how it goes then.I like to be the underdog but this thing is making me want to get the Matt Francis XXXT.And I dont even like Losi.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by 2nd Gear:
I had another break today and it was the right rear arm.It was on the track.I used the stock (rear) tires because the track was loamy that day and they have zero side support due to the sorry foams they put it the tires.They get great straightline traction but thats it.Turn and your done.Gonna get all the arms from Losi's XX to put on it and see how it goes then.I like to be the underdog but this thing is making me want to get the Matt Francis XXXT.And I dont even like Losi.</font>


I feel your pain. I just got an FTT3 last Friday after owning the Evader for only 1 month.

"The cheapest eventually becomes the most expensive."

I have had my Evader for a month, and opted for a Emaxx....It seems to be a bit more durable.

It would be interesting to see how many Evader owners have the Evader sitting on a shelf and not is use....due to broken parts, or fear of breaking parts. I know mine is on the shelf...partially because it is winter, and partially because of the Emaxx.

both of my Evaders are parked because they have the same broken parts! Still waiting for parts!!! and it's winter too...

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/frown.gif

-KS

Hank,

I agree. Fun should be the first goal.

I've been reading some recent messages complaining about too much breakage on the evader truck. I'm still waiting for my evader to arrive, but I wonder if the evader is as weak as some people are claiming? I can only go back to my previous experiences in R/C, so bare with me if I go too far back and mention a few R/C dinosaurs.

Hank, my question is. If the the evader or any current entry level truck is more weaker than my first blackfoot, the legacy Traxxas Hawk, Sledgehammer or Kyosho Blitzer? Just to mention a few.

I remember breaking only a few parts on my backfoot back then. Well I'm not counting the body, which we all know would be trashed very easily. Wow, and I gave it a heck of a beating. For starters there was back alley drag racing, we know what a loss of control or crash can do at 30mph on pavement. Then there was the ramp jumps. Sure I broke parts on those runs, but it wasn't the truck, it was the abuse it got from me. But the most common part broken in events like that were body mounts, servos, and linkage. The blackfoot had a problem with the diffs spurs that separated under extreme preasure and slipped, causing damage that required new spurs. But we solved that without going out buying expensive hop-ups. We took two 1/32" thick washers and placed them on the outside of the spurs, thus eliminating the slippage.

Since I haven't received my Evader yet. I can't fairly say that the comments of broken parts are overated. I guess my time will come to test the Evader and put it to the extensive abuse that Me and My friends love to do. If my Evader breaks too much and to easy, then I'll post it here too. But buying an E-Maxx is not the solution to me. Sure it might be close to indestructable but it sure will make a big dent in my bank account.

Maybe I need a shrink, but there comes a time that in the back of your mind you need to break something. You want to push your R/C to the limit and see what happens. You ask yourself, what if? Because if you don't want to break it you either don't run it or run very slowly and carefully and run it in very big parking lot with no other R/C's running that could crash you.

And race tracks seem to cause more breakage than the back lot bash. My trucks always broke down more on the tracks. Maybe it's because there's usually a hobby shop near the tracks? Bad Mantra, vodoo or something.

The weather here in PR is hot all year round and humid, so maybe that's why my trucks broke less... ???

[This message has been edited by Harry_PR (edited 01-18-2002).]

[This message has been edited by Harry_PR (edited 01-18-2002).]

I haven't run my Evader much due to the weather. My opinion is when the weather warms these parts will not be breaking so often or as easy. If it is colder than 50 degrees my R/C's stay inside. I will post if any problems.Good luck

the parts are breaking because of a factory defect. I was told this by a Duratrax rep when I phoned the other day, the factory forgot to add a KEY INGREDIENT to the plastic.

-KS

Knightshift,

I am totally in agreement with you. Everyone seems to assume that we are all driving in subzero weather, jumping off of six foot tall ramps, and don't know how to drive. I know a lot of guys that posted on here have been driving for years, and they are having the same problems. Mine hasn't broke again, and the reason why is because it is too cold outside, and I won't run it when it is that cold. It can't break if it sits on a shelf. When it warms up I am going to take it to a nice large parking lot.

I drove my Evader in 35 degree weather( I know I know) and the only thing that broke was the antenna tube!!! LOL I must have wrecked like 5 times!! I think mine has the KEY INGREDIANT!!! LOL

"Key Ingredient" MISSING? Very interesting bit of news there . . . I've worked with polymer chemistry from time to time over the past 10 years - and one thing I can tell you is that small changes in composition can have HUGE effects on properties. Like brittleness.

So, does this mean that my (broken) Evader is actually not constructed of Stress-Tech plastic (as advertised) but actually a bogus and brittle version of this remarkable space-age unbreakable material??

Will all the parts on my truck eventually suffer the fate of the bulkhead, brace, and shocktower? Should I remove all the Stress-Tech plastic parts from the truck and return them to Duratrax?

I think the early purchasers of the Evader have gotten screwed. Nice design and great features - too bad they messed up the execution by making it out of glass. Poor thing was born with osteoporosis.

So what should I do? Drive it VERY carefully - what's the FUN in that? If I drive more agressively, I'll wind up with something that spends most of the time in pieces waiting for replacements for the original defective parts. Over time I guess it will gradually transform into the truck it should have been.

I know Duratrax is a good company trying to do what they can to correct an unfortunate mistake. A good idea might be to offer to REPLACE the early Evaders made of defective plastic. It is often good to make "early adopters" of products happy - they are usually the most vocal.

Klaatu.56,

I sort of suggested something similar to a exchange policy in a earlier post. The response I got was "how is Duratrax going to do that?" I don't know how they can do it, but they really should make the effort. They should be able to get a idea of when you purchased it what batch it was. I used to work in production, and I find it hard to believe they have no way to track these things. I bought the Evader based on reviews and Duratrax's reputation. Now I question the wisdom of my decision. The two items I have bought have had problems. The Evader...and a Intellipeak charger that didn't work right out of the box. I am still waiting for its replacement.

"Key Ingredient" MISSING? Very interesting bit of news there . . . I've worked with polymer chemistry from time to time over the past 10 years - and one thing I can tell you is that small changes in composition can have HUGE effects on properties. Like brittleness.

So, does this mean that my (broken) Evader is actually not constructed of Stress-Tech plastic (as advertised) but actually a bogus and brittle version of this remarkable space-age unbreakable material??

Will all the parts on my truck eventually suffer the fate of the bulkhead, brace, and shocktower? Should I remove all the Stress-Tech plastic parts from the truck and return them to Duratrax?

I think the early purchasers of the Evader have gotten screwed. Nice design and great features - too bad they messed up the execution by making it out of glass. Poor thing was born with osteoporosis.

So what should I do? Drive it VERY carefully - what's the FUN in that? If I drive more agressively, I'll wind up with something that spends most of the time in pieces waiting for replacements for the original defective parts. Over time I guess it will gradually transform into the truck it should have been.

I know Duratrax is a good company trying to do what they can to correct an unfortunate mistake. A good idea might be to offer to REPLACE the early Evaders made of defective plastic. It is often good to make "early adopters" of products happy - they are usually the most vocal.

My evader came out of the box with a defective reciver but Duratrax has been very good abot replaceing it I should get it back soon.

I just wanted to pass along a thought/opinion that I submitted to DuraTrax via their website...Hankster maybe you have some contacts to help get some response.
"To whom it may concern. I just wanted to pass along that I am a fairly satisfied customer since buying my new Evader...unfortunately it seems that not everyone feels this way. Through the link provided by DuraTrax to the Team RCV website (Evader Review by Hank) I found a discussion board regarding people's misfortunes with breaking parts too easily on the Evader. There is now talk on the board that someone was told by a DuraTrax rep. that a key ingredient was left out of the plastic on some of the early production Evaders that may be the cause to all the breakage. I think it is in your best interest to address this issue either on the Team RCV website or at least the DuraTrax website. It is obvious that there are already a lot of people who have lost faith in DuraTrax and feel like they wasted $170 on their Evader and you owe it to these people and to DuraTrax to try to resolve these issues. I have broken only my rear chassis plate but came up with a home fix simply because of the horror stories posted by others in regards to getting replacement parts. It may be time to consider some sort of recall or aluminum hop ups at a discounted rate for current Evader owners. Thank you very much for your time." Not sure if anyone else has tried this approach and gotten any response but it would be great to get to the bottom of all of this. Again I am happy with my Evader up to this point but am a little worried what I might run into the first time I take it to a track.

[This message has been edited by brucestyves (edited 01-22-2002).]

I casually mentioned in an email today that I was wondering about the "missing ingredient" rumor and would like some clarification. Your way is better (if they do it) since that would tell the community at large (well our community at least) what is going on. I lke the fact that you mentioned about the link from their site to this (teamrcv.com) one. I for one read that review and it did weigh heavily on my decision to buy my Evader.

If they respond to me about anything I will let everyone know.

TRA

[This message has been edited by Scrambler (edited 01-22-2002).]

Quoted from an email that I just received from Craig at Car Support Product Support &lt;CarSupport@hobbico.com&gt;
-----------
Hello,

Thank you for your recent e-mail. Some Evaders were shipped with nylon parts that did not get a hydrating process in the manufacturing of the pieces. The parts which you have on order will be corrected and not be as brittle as the ones that you broke. We expect those parts to arrive by Friday the 25th.
-----------

Sort of answers the question as to the manufacturing difficulties that were mentioned earlier, but nothing about the possibility of a larger replacement program. I suppose they are just going to replace the old defective parts as they come in, as per the Stress Tech warrantee.

I wonder what would happen if I returned all of my stress tech parts and asked for the new replacement parts, before they break. Might save me time in the long run...

TRA

[This message has been edited by Scrambler (edited 01-22-2002).]

I sent in my broken parts a month ago. I think they sholud be able to tell if the parts that are being returned are the batch that is missing the "key" ingredient. If so, maybe they could make a database of all the Evader owners who had these bad parts, and institute a exchange policy. Even if they extended the stresstech guarantee longer then a year for these bad parts it would help. Since it is winter, the ground is covered with snow, and the roads coated with salt, my Evader sits on a shelf till the spring thaw. Unless you include my puddling along in the basement at less then half speed testing different adjustments out http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/frown.gif By the time I get it out in the spring, my stresstech guarantee will be half gone already. I know my luck, I will hit something a day after the warranty expires.

I got essentially the same response from DuraTrax. It couldn't hurt if all of us ask about the possibility of getting all of the stresstech part replaced at one time rather than waiting to see if/when they will break. Maybe if there is enough demand for this they will look into it.

I can't see how replacing all of the defective ST parts at once would be that big of a deal for them. It would mean less shipping costs since it occurs at once. Less man-hours involved for employees as opposed to individual orders. Getting them all replaced at once also would mean, for those customers at least, happier customers. Always important.

Only problem that I see would be that they would have to have all of the parts in stock to do it all at once. (Which I am sure they could just back order if need be and make us wait for them anyway.)

Things that we would need to know would be which parts were affected by the screwup and then we could send em in for replacement.

If I have time this afternoon I will call over there and try and find out what they think about this. I urge others that would want to do this also contact Duratrax/Hobby services and ask them about the feasability of this idea.

TRA

I have contacted DuraTrax about the possibility of doing a complete replacement of StressTech Parts for customers who were effected by the bad batch of parts as well and am awaiting a response via e-mail. I think the key to this being possible depends on whether or not they use any kind of mfg. date codes (like most manufacturers do). I asked about the warranty for parts that have been modified...as I have mentioned before I chose to make a home fix for my broken rear chassis plate which resulted in me drilling three holes in the chassis. Anyway, let's keep trying to work with the people from DuraTrax. It sure seems like they are willing to try to keep customers happy.

Just got this e-mail from DuraTrax:
"Boiling the parts for two hours gives the nylon parts better toughness but they are a little more flexible. The replacement parts shipping from our facility have all been boiled for two hours.
If you are worried that your modification will violate the warranty,
do not worry. If you send in these broken parts, we will replace them. To be sure,
send a copy of this e-mail with the parts. (If you need to send in parts that you have modified as a quick fix make sure you contact DuraTrax first)
We do have production codes, which is a sticker or stamp on the bottom of the box
your Evader came in. Unfortunately, we have not been able to nail down a particular
production lot or date of assembly. I appears to be a random mix of production lots
where some have been having troubles. From each production lot I have had reports
of no problems and reports of the opposite."


[This message has been edited by brucestyves (edited 01-23-2002).]

I noticed on my Evader box, a sticker that had some numbers on it. I can't recall exactly since I am not at home, but I believe the numbers were 20012011. Could this be a manufacturing date? 11/20/2001 perhaps? Did anyone else have this on there Evader box? If so, I would think Duratrax could figure out if the bad parts on in the Evaders base on this if it is a manufacturing date.

Whoops...obviously Bruce posted his message while I was typing mine....guess this is the production date.

Missing ingredient... That sure will screw up any recipe. My evader is still untested. I haven't had the time to play with, it just arrived a few days ago. But with this issue of the missing ingredient, I will be more carefull on my test runs. I don't want to break anything without making sure the LHS have parts in stock.

This reminds me of the issue of hop-ups. Duratrax is probably already manufacturing hop-ups for the evader truck. They should offer a discount on better quality hop-ups to evader owners returning their broken parts. This way customers that are not satisfied with the current materials used, can choose to upgrade at the time of replacing broken parts under warranty.

Just my 2 cents...

By the way as soon as I'm sure I can replace parts without waiting too long I'll torture my evader more intensely.

Harry, It's not truly a missing ingredient in the plastic. It is a case of the plastic not being hydradted enough during the molding process. This is why boiling the parts helps...it adds moisture to the parts adding flexibility. From the info I have received DuraTrax is still in the process of figuring out what the exact cause is. It doesn't sound like it is a specific batch of parts from specific dates. I am a firm believer just from the contact I have had today that DuraTrax will do everything they can to make sure customers are satisfied as long as you are willing to work with them and be patient. It will probably take them some more time to master these stresstech parts but they are definitely willing to work with you on getting replacements out as quickly as possible.

I looked at the box my Evader came in and it's also got production date of 20011120. I sent a long email to their support department this morning and just got this response:

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">...Thank you for your recent e-mail. It is true that some of the parts that were produced for the Evader missed a process of hydration which causes them to be brittle. All new parts that are sent as part replacements will not have that problem.

Duratrax is currently working on adding this information to the website.

Unfortunately, the only parts that will be replaced are broken parts...

Sincerely,
Craig
Product Support</font>

I got my Evader (my first 'real' R/C car) for Christmas, and a month later, I've only run 6-8 packs due to waiting for replacement parts following 2 crashes.

I'm relieved to discover that they did indeed have a bad batch of Stress Tech, but disappointed that Duratrax will only replace pieces that actually break. With the current wait times for parts, many of our warranties will likely expire before our cars are 'restored' back to box stock toughness.

The first time it broke was due to being backed into a door frame at about half throttle (broken rear chassis plate & hinge pin) - a lot more damage than would be expected for the impact. A couple weeks later, I got it back together and got nearly 2 packs of use before my next accident. Everything was going great until I jumped off a small flight of stairs at nearly full speed, took a bad bounce and caught a front wheel on a cement post. The second wreck was much more severe, but the amount of damage was about the same as the first crash.

A few days ago, I installed a new front brace, front bulkhead, front bumper, and hub carrier. The replacement parts must be coming from the supply of "good" Stress Tech because the Evader now seems nearly bulletproof. I've gone through 4 packs in the last two days (all on concrete and in 30-40 degree weather) with not even a whimper from wrecks that were easily as severe as the first two.

To sum up my rambling, I'm beginning to have more confidence and faith in the Evader. It's much more fun to play with when it doesn't explode every time it crashes.

I only wish Duratrax would be more supportive and helpful, especially since many of our Evaders wouldn't spend the majority of their time on the shelf if they had been built with non-brittle parts to begin with.

I have found that DuraTrax will replace parts long after the warranty has expired. Earlier version had only 6 month warranties and they still replace the parts. I don't think I would worry about that part of it.

I'm still waiting for my parts! http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/frown.gif

sent in my first batch of broken parts before Christmas... My second batch of broken parts for my second Evader will be even longer to arrive..

anyone wanna buy a couple of Evaders??

UPDATE: I just checked my mail and my first batch of parts is finally here!!! Time to fix one of my Evaders!!

-KS


[This message has been edited by KnightShift (edited 01-24-2002).]

If you have had a problem with parts breakage on your Evader, there is now a form on the DuraTrax web site where you can quickly get replacement parts. You can find it at http://www.duratrax.com/techsupport/evader-support.html

All replacement parts are stronger then the originals.

Well I have to admit that this is an improvement. I am glad to see that Duratrax is moving things in the right direction. Except for the fact that I just got off the phone with Hobbico and they told me that they are still waiting for my bulkhead replacement. Yet their website states that all parts are in stock now.

TRA

Thanks Brucestyves. I have faith in Duratrax and after reading the recent posts, it seems that its paying off. They seem to be working hard to solve this matter.