bluelight - my dissatisfaction is primarily with the number of general Evader threads. One guy will be too lazy to read through previous posts or do a search and post something about his truck, then others will reply in that thread and before you know, it's yet another long thread. I just do not see the necessity of that many threads on the Evader when a little patience in reading previous posts will do. That doesn't apply to the racing thread; as I already have mentioned, I can see a need for that one as it pertains directly to racing the Evader, not general use.

Bill - I remembered after I asked Phil that question that Duratrax has the steering parts kit in colours as well. It was the short cup that threw me.

mrfixit - nice job! The nerf bars remind me of a few VW-powered rail buggies I've seen before. The bumper reminds me a bit of the one on my first RC (Nikko Super Octane). I bet that works really well to help avoid breakage, especially the arms. Is the bumper curved upwards? If so, how did you get it to bend so uniformly? Oh yeah, welcome to the thread!

Short Cup?

By the way I have found my servo problem by searching servo mfg web sites.
The evader requires 1.4" high servos. I am disapointed in Hank for advising me to purchase an expensive 1.5" high servo to improve my evader st steering.

Phil

Kitty,

Thanks for the compliment. No, the bumper is not really curved. That's what is great about the Evader's bumper mount, you can use flat sheet stock to cut out whatever-shape plastic bumper you want, and the angle that it mounts at is perfect! Nikko puts those things on for a reason, so I just followed those reasons I guess. I am much older now, but this truck is so FAST that I feel like I still have my learner's permit!

phil - short cup = the shorter-length ball cups that have the "screw" link between them and connect to the servo arm. The pic shows one side as having a blue one. I don't know the technical name for that part so I called it a short cup.

Update: When I had my 17x2 Jag motor out for maintenance and checking out, I decided to change the timing a little bit. Baby bro' said that to advance timing, you turn the endbell a certain way. Well, mine would go only one way, as the tic mark that fits into the slot on the can was originally set up against one side. So I just turned the endbell a little bit towards the other end of the notch. I have no idea what it's now set it, but I do know that it's running much better. I was able to dust Huk's (baby bro) E-Maxx! We both were running the same type of packs (he runs 7-cell packs) so that was pretty nice. I'll be converting a few of my crappy 2400s over to 7-cell configs soon so we'll see how fast my Evader will go then heh

Oh yeah, even more good news... during our last bash-fest, nothing on my Evader broke. I'm getting better at controlling it and tweaking the settings to fit my style. We didn't get the makeshift jump ramp out, but I did roll my truck a few times. Not even the front body mount broke and I ran through six packs. I think I finally have this baby set up right for where we bash, though I'm still planning on selling it. Just in case anyone missed it, I'm getting an E-Pede, but I won't be completely vapour from this thread. Even if I sell my Evader, I'll always love it :)

Traitor! My Evader ate an E-pede for lunch today! I think it was mad at you. Actually, I had a great day of racing today and the underprivileged kids were the real winners, so good deal all around. Posted in the Evader racers thread.

Hi fellow Evader Owners :wave:

I have a preview of couple of new Evader Hop-Ups on the Jep-R/C page. These will be available January 10th, 2003. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

LINK:
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html)

Jep
(sorry for the spam):(

Oh, cj :rolleyes:

I'm not a traitor. I just can't afford the upkeep of two vehicles right now. I have the Evader tweaked just right and have a few ideas of my own for a front bumper/skid plate combination that I think would work great. Even if I sell it, I'll still keep in touch with you guys. Heck, a few of you also have Pedes too so it's not like I'll never see any of you again.

Oh yeah, a belated Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah, Shama-Lamma-Ramadan, Kwanzaa, etc to those who celebrate any of those. Heck, Happy Whatever You're Having. There, that oughtta cover it hehehe

Kitty- Just kidding, obviously. The E-pede was cool. Happy Holidays to you, too. I've been busy the last couple of days working on the AE buggy I gave my son for Xmas, so I guess I'm a traitor, too. He's going to his 1st race this evening, so it should be fun.

Originally posted by cjtamu
Kitty- Just kidding, obviously. The E-pede was cool. Happy Holidays to you, too. I've been busy the last couple of days working on the AE buggy I gave my son for Xmas, so I guess I'm a traitor, too. He's going to his 1st race this evening, so it should be fun. What type of track you runing on cjtamu???W/ the B3 and what motor??

It's actually a B2 w/ a P2K2 stock motor. When he gets better we'll get the B3 upgrade kit for it. There's a picture of it in the Let's See Your Rides thread.I was going to wait for his b'day ('cause he just got his learner's permit and I'm in the process of finishing my Ramcharger so we can get to his 280Z which of course means $), but a guy at the track was selling this for $80. Had an Airtronics 94737 servo already installed and 13 sets of rear tires and wheels and 4 sets of fronts, so I scooped it up. It's in great shape. We've done everything except rebuild the diff, so that's this weeks project. The track is short (50'X100') and hard-packed clay that gets real slick when they wet it. If you have any tire or setup suggestions they'd be appreciated. Let you know how it goes. I'm racing the Evader.

Dang, CJ! Eighty bucks for the buggy plus all those wheels and tires sounds like a steal, especially if the tires are in decent shape. Why can't I seem to stumble upon deals like that? heh
I see a number of used vehicles at my LHS, but the owners are way too proud of them for the asking prices. If they're so friggin proud, why are they selling them, yaknow? And I have seen only one vehicle for sale there that was anywhere near clean. Some guy is trying to sell his used T-Maxx for $300 that is so covered with crud you can hardly tell there's a truck underneath it all. There are no hop-ups on it (even still has the original plastic driveshafts/axles!) and he wants that much for a pile of dirt, mud and grass without a body? Sheesh! The only things that you can see on my Evader to tell that it isn't new are the scarred outsides of the wheels and the body has scratches from a few "flip n' slides" heh

I didn't know you were old enough to have a kid old enough to drive! What era is his 280Z from? I love the first generation of those, as well as the 260Z and 240Z models, though I rarely see any of them around.

Catch you guys again soon!

Kitty- 1976 280Z. First year for the 280Z and it has the original Bosch throttle body fuel injectors. It's cool, but you should see my Ramcharger. FYI, I didn't know I was old enough to have a kid old enogh to drive either, but I guess I am. I'll still take getting older over the alternative.

Originally posted by cjtamu
It's actually a B2 w/ a P2K2 stock motor. When he gets better we'll get the B3 upgrade kit for it. There's a picture of it in the Let's See Your Rides thread.I was going to wait for his b'day ('cause he just got his learner's permit and I'm in the process of finishing my Ramcharger so we can get to his 280Z which of course means $), but a guy at the track was selling this for $80. Had an Airtronics 94737 servo already installed and 13 sets of rear tires and wheels and 4 sets of fronts, so I scooped it up. It's in great shape. We've done everything except rebuild the diff, so that's this weeks project. The track is short (50'X100') and hard-packed clay that gets real slick when they wet it. If you have any tire or setup suggestions they'd be appreciated. Let you know how it goes. I'm racing the Evader.
One of the better parts I changed on my ol' B3 was the front hub carriers.I went to 25 deg. and man I loved it.It was more precise and felt smoother and it had more steering as well,I also went with the HG ti-topshaft and idler which helped it spool up faster.I know people "might" say metal anywhere will add rotating mass (whence the idler) but trust me it does work :thumbsup: ...The one thing I never got fo her was the Robinson lightweight slipper plates I wish I did but oh well we live and learn.

Yeah, everything I've read about the setup says to go with the 25 degree casters. We took off the stock green springs and ran blue cut down Losi truck springs on it last night and that gave him a lot more steering.

Man did I get a reality check today.I never really thought that getting the new chassis would of been a big deal.But once I got it and put it on (broke the original chassis) put the new front bulkhead on (previously used a aluminum XXT front brace but it isnt good enough thank god I have Jep's front brace now :thumbsup: ) changed the front hub carriers and new front spindles it feels like a whole other truck now.The only thing I have never broken which is still original is the front arms but now that I am telling you all this I am planning on them to go next ;) ..This "new" chassis is way more rigid then the "old" chassis it isnt even funny. ...
I know for a fact that the Associated slipper works but you need to bore the center hole out to fit the Evader topshaft.I HATE the stock slipper even though it works I dont care for it.(I wont waste my money on the new slipper plates/pad from Duratrax)The bushing that comes with the Evader works inside the front plate for assoc. so it is a no brainer too.But I will say this if,And I do mean if-this truck breaks on me one time come next raceday I will not be keeping it.I love the truck it is why I still have it (well once sold it but got it back) to try and make it work.I like to do something thats otherwise impossible but a guys pocket book (no matter who you work for) goes only so far before you toss in the towel.I have a nicely equipped T3 as well but thats on the same chopping block as well.I am counting on Jeps brace set to help me keep this thing.I spent 40 bucks today on parts for my evader (not including the miss. parts since new.I could of almost bought 2 of these kits by now.Who knows we will see come next Saturday I guess... :devil:

I wanted to get a current message on this thread to bring it to anyones attention who has been on this forum for less than a year. This particular thread includes some real good evader st information for new and experienced owners alike. including Hanks original test results and subsequent recomendations for upgrades.

Hey all - Newbie to the R/C world here.

I just bought an Evader and have been looking through the threads to find things to make it more durable and better. I heard alot about the Jep's products but he seems to have stopped selling stuff. Any alternatives to his stuff or should I just go with some of the Duratrax hop ups from Tower ?

Also, Brushless motors worth the money or not ? If so, any recomendations for this truck ?

As for hop-ups, I havn't gotten anything other than an RPM bumper that absorbs shock better. The only problem part I have run into is the rear shock tower. I have broke it twice. But, it always breaks clean and I glue it with CA.

If you aren't going to race at a track, then brushless is definately the way to go. Once you start to get fast brushed motors, you will have to do a lot of maintenance to keep them going at top speed. Brushless motors have zero maintenance. I personally havn't used a brushless motor because I race (there isn't a brushless class), but if I didn't I would definately go brushless.

Thanks for the info - I ordered one of the RPM bumpers today and am probably going to go brushless then, only truck I race is my E-Maxx. I heard about the front brace breaking alot though and that an aluminum one is a good thing to get. Any one know if that's right ?

Hey all - Newbie to the R/C world here.

I just bought an Evader and have been looking through the threads to find things to make it more durable and better. I heard alot about the Jep's products but he seems to have stopped selling stuff. Any alternatives to his stuff or should I just go with some of the Duratrax hop ups from Tower ?


You can find the braces here - http://store.racers-edge.com/catalog/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog&parent_id=208 - But I just ordered the front rear brace for my nitro thru my LHS and it was a dollar less and no S&H. There are numerous sites that help make the Evader a tough truck. Check out http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/ for some good advise. I modified my servo saver as he suggested and it works great, I have yet to replace anymore gears.

2nd, did you sell it?

philp37, your right this thread is good one. Helped a lot of people.

Captain, a brushless is alot of motor for the Evader. You would really need to beef it up to handle the power. My friends is off the ground half the time he's driving it. Never seems to be control.

Like I said before, I like adding something to this thread once in a while because it is so informative for Evader owners new and experienced. However something is missing that I once found in the other thread. That is how to modify the evader servo saver so that it actually saves servos.

How many servos could a servo saver save if a servo saver could save servos?

Say that fast five times.

What gearing (spur and pinion) are you using for any of the following...
P2k
P2k2
Monster Stock

However something is missing that I once found in the other thread. That is how to modify the evader servo saver so that it actually saves servos.

How many servos could a servo saver save if a servo saver could save servos?

Say that fast five times.

http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/

The servo saver fix

Howdy all., New to the R/C world. A couple of buds & I purchased Evaders in Jan, and havin a blast with them. After busting things up in the cold and running into stuff from inexperience we are sure learning how to repair these things. I've pretty much read every thread on the other Duratrax Evader thread and picked up a pile of info and definetly need to get a couple of items: aluminum idler from 22racer, assc.diff gear, and Jeps front brace. Although, We built us track in my back yard and aint running into things as much now, so broken parts are getting a little less.
I do have a little hint that I tried the other day and seems to work good for our track thats is about 75' wide. Cheap antenna tubes don't hold up to well. I work at a NAPA so I'm using 1/8 plastic airline tubing($.50/ft). Started out running it out the hole in the body, but thats a pain in the butt to thread through all the time,especially for a one-armed-dude like me. So I put a loop in the tube with 2 zip ties to hold in place and wa-la no more tube to fight with. So far no problem with interferance or range.
Sorry for the long gab session, can get a little windy at times.

Man, I used the P2k with 81t spur, and 26t pinion today at my track. It absolutely rocked. I was blowing by everybody, they actually checked to see if I had a mod motor. The motor was about 160deg though. I might even go to 27t pinion next weekend if I can keep it below 180deg (I know, that is high). I'm still running sportsman, but I did place 1st in all three heats. Unfortunately, my brushes hung up and I didn't finish the main. Racing is major fun :)

woa, that is HOT. i sure hope its worth it to you. i couldnt see gearing that high giving any performance advantage, but if you like it, use it. just don't expect the motor to last too long.

Just some FYI, with my motors geared right, they dont get over 135-140º.

Actually, I am running a final ratio that is still "lower" than what Trinity suggested on the paper that came with my P2K. They suggest to start with a final of 7.6 and you can even go to 6.7 for major top-speed (I'm running 8.28 with 26t pinion). With the evaders internal gear ratio of 2.66 and a spur of 81t, a ratio of 7.6 would have me running a pinion of 28t. I'm currently running a 26t pinion, so trinity MUST know it will get hot running it that way, and they still suggest it. After running it this hard, my brushes weren't discolored, and the comm had normal wear. I have a lathe, so I skim the comm after every race day anyway. At any rate, it was showing some major performance improvement over the lower gearing. The p2k has some monster torque and is designed to run at a higher ratio than most motors.

Any other evader owners run a p2k? What gearing are you running.


BTW. I just checked http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/ and he said he uses a 88t spur and 27t (3.26 ratio) with the p2k2. The p2k has more torque (and should be geared higher) so, my ratio of 3.16 should be right on.

Hey, and evader owners have these front tires...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=PROC8277&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

If so, what wheels are you using with them? Are you supposed to get a special "wide" wheel, or can you use the stock ones.

On a track with a 100' straght I would use around a 18-20 tooth pinion with a p2k.

BJ I think the nitro evader has a aluminum idler, and there lot's cheaper. Look back a couple pages, someone was talking about them.

[QUOTE=22Racer]On a track with a 100' straght I would use around a 18-20 tooth pinion with a p2k.

Is that with an evader stadium truck or buggy?

Tip for Evader owners ... BX & ST

Take one of those balloons used to make animals and cut about a 1/2 inch section off, not from the ends. Slip it over the CV joint and zip tie each end to make a dust boot, it will also hold in those pesky pins that like to work loose and fall out.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96709/Hf97658.jpg

What tire is that in the picture Mastec?

Left rear tire. I was running the hell outta my truck today and they seem to hold up to the stress. And the pin did not fall out ... :)

If the position of the ball cup threw you off, I reversed mine from the rear of the hub to the front. The turnbuckle and the spring always hit each other.

I think it was "what brand and model of tire" I was wondering same thing it looks like a gladiator? maybe it looks pretty good.

Tire is a bowtie.

On a track with a 100' straght I would use around a 18-20 tooth pinion with a p2k.



With what tooth spur?

i live in australia and my evader should be here by next weekend..i plan to mainly bashwbut would like to get into racing...just woundering wither it is worht to get some 20 weight oil, some hard springs for rear and soft for front, rpm cushioned front bumper, alum front pin brace, and also a front and rear sway bar kit. for bashing ill run some proline dirt hawgs and for racing ill use whatever suits the surface..what do use guys think...any sudgestions will be great. alsoa s i live in aus, will duratrax still honour the one year waranty?

the Duratrax sprint handles 20t and higher.

Summer's here, and all of you Evader racers should check out my listing for a huge package deal. I will also be listing a large pile of new-in-package Evader ST parts as well. Other things have come up and I need to liquidate. The RTR package is item # 5913588407 on ebay.

Thanks to everyone in Hobby Talk for all the great conversation and advice over the years!