Originally posted by jacob
i have also heard rumors about a evader monster truck. i hope it comes out soon:hat:


A monster truck!?!?! IS this true? Is this true? Please say it is!

i think it is true because when duratrax made nothing but nitro vehicles they made the maximum series. first came the max stadium truck and then a little while later out came the max buggy(noticing a simularity?) and then came the max monster truck. then they made pro versions of the max st and the max mt with better engines and a bunch of aluminum hop up parts. i hope that they make a evader mt and pro versions:thumbsup:

but the only difference between all the maxxes (except the pro versions) is the shock towers, the bodys, and the wheels. those three things are, more than likeley, going to be the only think you'll need to change to make your regular evst into a evbx or evmt. save your money for the pro versions; just buy the bx's shock towers, body, and some PL wheels, if you want a evbx. and if (big if) they do make a MT version, then do the same for it.

To change a truck into a buggy the suspension arms will also have to be changed as a buggy is narrower then a truck. By the time you buy new shock towers, new shocks, new rims, new tires, new A arms, new rear dogbones, new turnbuckles and a new body, you most likely would be able to buy a completely new kit for less. It could also be that the gear ratio in the transmission will be different to compensate for the smaller tires.

A quick check for the above ST parts (not counting transmission gears) comes to over $150.00

Thank you for breaking it down for us hankster. Do you know if they will make a MT version of the Evader ST? Talk to you later.

oh..., well it looks like that in the pic, so thats what i went with. i thought that STs and BXs were the same width. thanks for correcting me...

Maybe Duratrax is going to come out with Evader conversion kits. The new Evaders are probably going to be very popular.:D

if you go to omni models.com there is a picture if the duratrax delphi f1 car

As an example, let's look at the width of Associated's T3 and B3

T3 - 12.6"
B3 - 9.8"

As you can see, that is almost 3" difference in width and that's not all done with the wider truck tires.

I have no idea if DuraTrax is coming out with an electric MT.

i was on ebay yesterday evening and saw a evader st converion kit to the evader bx, i didn't have time to look at it because my computer crashed and i cannot find it today on ebay.

do you know how much it cost?

can every one that has pics of their evader can you put them on. I am interested in photos of it jumping. also can every one say what their biggest jumps where and if you broke anything.:rolleyes:

biggest jump you say.... well, i propped some boards up aginst a few 5 gallon buckets and let er' rip. nothing broke (amazingly). i would say it got at least 5ft high.

I once set up 2 pieces of plywood for on a wheelbarrow, one for the launch and one for a landing ramp. Im still saving up for the evader (only 14, hard to get money) so i used my brothers stampede and flew at it at top speed because it was pretty steep and i was worried that it wasnt going tp make it. it hits it and catches about 3 feet of air off the ramp and landed about 4 feet after the landing ramp. then me and my friend started trying to see who could make it the nicest landing and he is not a good driver and goes way to slow, gets the back wheels caught on the tip of the landing ramp and breaks a shock. well thats my story

My jumps are as follows

1- 8" plastic drain pipe with wooden and carpet ramps.
2- 12" very steep sand hill peak.landing in more sand

I just put together an 8-cell evader with stock esc and motor and if I hit 1 at full speed it goes 2-3 ft up and about 12 ft out. If I can hit 2 at full speed it goes up 3-4 ft and out about 8-10 ft.

My biggest jump was an old bmx track but i couldn't get any speed up. I break mostly servo arms, front body mount, idler gear , servo gears, wheels. Also wear out motors qhite frequently, but have lost of fun. Just gave my son an evader for his birthday too.

hey guys, when i get a evader i am going to keep its electronics stock. do you think i will have problems with the idler gear, stock motor or any thing like that if i keep the slipper clutch set correctly? and if i do change the motor or esc what can i do to make sure nothing goes wrong?:confused: is the aluminum front brace better than the aluminum bulkhead? im not ready to cough up 40 dollars for the latter( and the added weight ) when i could pay only 10 dollars for the brace. i heard that a aluminum front brace not only makes the bulkhead stronger but also makes for better steering.:D

Jacob,

If you keep the stock esc and motor, you will not have a problem with the idler gear striping. Especialy if your slipper clutch is set correctly. I have a 12 by 2 p-94 and I never had problems with the gears. Remember, if you get a motor that is less than 16 turns, you will have to get an esc with a low enough turns limit. Also, the less turns on a motor, the smaller pinion.

If you want to upgrade the bulkhead brace, don't get the one duratrax makes. Try finding Jep's aluminum bulkhead brace on ebay. It has a brace holding the back of the bulkhead.

Have Fun!

I would have to disagree. Jep R/C's front bulkhead bracing system, is a huge improvement in bulkhead durability over the stock bracing system. Soon, I'm sure, Duratrax will copy it and include it stock.

thanks you guys, I was thinking about a team orion rush 13x2 modified motor and a duratrax streak esc because on the duratrax website it says that the sprint esc can only handle motors from 27 t to 20 t, but the streak can handle 12 t to 27( I think ). do you think this is a good setup? what size pinion gear should i get? do you think this will make it a lot faster? I want race some time in the future but right now i am focusing on fun. while we are on electronics does anyone know how to waterproof the evader? thanks.:dude:

I have to disagree with Jep R/C about not stripping idler gears with a stock motor. I went through 4 of them with the diff and slipper properly adjusted. I am still waiting to hear about the various mods to determine which one I will go with. My 2 cents worth.:dude:

Originally posted by besplatna
I have to disagree with Jep R/C about not stripping idler gears with a stock motor. I went through 4 of them with the diff and slipper properly adjusted. I am still waiting to hear about the various mods to determine which one I will go with. My 2 cents worth.:dude:

This is what I did with my Evader to solve this:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&postid=227569#post227569

I run my truck with a Fantom 11x2. Hope this helps...

Jacob,

According to duratrax, it says 20 turns, but can really handle 15 or 16 turn. I know of people

Philp37,

Didn't I say to get Jep's Bulkhead Brace?:rolleyes:

I ran a 17 turn sapphire with the sprint for a month and it was great, it got alot warmer than usual but it wasnt bad. The reason I used it with that esc is because I was waiting for my mc330cr esc to get fixed.

Hey Hankster, I have been away for awile. Did anyone find a good fix for the Idler gear in the Evader tranny? Winter racing is coming up and need to be ready. Thanks BLR

I've tried to contact Robinson on getting some 29 tooth gear stock. I can't seem to get ahold of anyone. Pretty soon I'll probably make 10-12 sets of idlers (aluminum) and reworked asc diff gears. If I cant get any gear stock I have to use 2 aluminum pinion gears to make each idler. I'm still thinking about $20-$25 for both gears, the 2 idlers and diff gears are almost $10 before I start. Believe me they work good, I blew 4 idlers and 2 diff gears before.I put ours in in june and haven't had a prob. I have an 11 turn in it right now. Did anyone see me and my son's pic in Extreme Rc mag. or Rc car. (not RC car action) My wife sent in the pics and article about our track.

I dont get this, alot of people are having problems with their tranny. I have had NO problems with my tranny and i was running my friends 10x1 p-94 with 3000 hv's. (15/87) gearing, And I jumped with it alot. Some people have used the stock motor and it still gets shredded.

Pictures of the Evader BX and the new (until now secret) Nitro Evader are now on-line in my Chicago Hobby Show report in the General RC Discussion area. Or just click --> http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27687 <--- to get there! You can post your comments/questions here of on that thread.

Well, just got done installing CVD's in my Evader. An easy task but not cheap. Here's a breakdown of the parts I used. Maybe it could be done with less parts but I wasn't happy with any extra slop in the rear suspension. You could save cost by using the non Graphite version of the parts where applicable.

A-2164 Rear Outer Hinge Pins
A-2162 'CR' Rear Inner Hinge Pins
A-6100 E-clips 1/8"
A-2126 'CR' Rear Hub Carrier Set w/Spacers
A-9810 Graphite/Composite Rear Suspension Arms
A-6206 4-40 x 3/8" Cap-Head Screws
A-9941 Bearing Spacer/Wheel Washer Set
A-6903 3/16" x 3/8" Ball Bearing (need 2 packets)
And of course the XXT MIP CVD Kit

I also used a pair of small 1/8" x 1/4" thin plastic washers from Home Depot to take up the slop at the inner A-arm.

The only modification you have to make to the Evader parts is to drill out the inner A-arm mount to 1/8" to fit the new larger hinge pin.

If you don't use the XXT hinge pins along with the hub carriers and a-arms then you end up with quite a bit of extra slop in the suspension. The Evader uses 3mm hinge pins in the rear and the XXT uses 1/8" which is slightly larger.

I did the swap because when I shattered one of my rear a-arms I also bent one of the axles. Figured since it's broke it's time to upgrade

http://steve.baneon.org/misc/evader/cvd.jpg
Like my custom slicks? ;)

Steve

EDIT: Sorry, I had a brain fart last night. Of course the conversion can be done with way less parts. All you need are the Losi rear hub carriers, rear outer hinge pins and the 3/16" x 3/8" bearings. Then you just have to drill out the outer hinge pin holes on the stock Evader a-arm to 1/8".

Very nice Bane TY!

man, this place hasnt seen any action for a while... thought that i would bring back the first and the best thread on the evader. can people put pictures of there evaders catchin air up here? thanks




meow meow meow meow meow..... good kitty!

bane, did the cvds make a noticible difference? was it worth the time and effort? thanks:hat:


"go to teamevader.com or suffer the consequences!" shouted the delirous fish

I was busy uprgading one of my evader st steering servo and realized that the Hobbico CS-65 servo I was installing had jr/hitech style plugs. I had heard you could still use them but had to be careful of the way you hooked them up as there would be no protection against accidently reversing them. However they don't seem to work. What am I to do now?

Phil what did ya do?Are you running a airtronics radio??If not then when you install the servo make sure the black wire is facing the outside of the reciever case and the white wire will be going towards the middle of the reciever.Do that and youll be back on here thanking me (unless you really screwed something up):devil:

Phil- Are you still using the stock receiver? If so, I think you can buy a Futaba receiver plug and just swap out with the JR plug, as long as the bullet-style connectors inside are the same. The plug is just an insert and it's the little bullet-style connectors inside that actually make contact. When I went to a Novak ESC I had the same problem. The connectors that are installed on the Novak ESC wouldn't fit into my Futaba plug,
so I just used the universal connector that came with the ESC and it works fine. Just be sure that you have the wires oriented properly like 2nd said.

well one BIG thing I forgot to mention in my last post.Trim off the tab for the plug...It is used for JR and not Futaba...

But on another note.........................
Guess what I broke today.......................
My FrEaKiN CHASSIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well it "could" of been the last of the O.G. original chassis but now it is junk just like thousands and thousands b4 it...................................Now I get to enjoy a updated one!!!!Believe you me brother I will be solving that issue PDQ.......I have a idea and once it is complete I will post pics..
And no I dont have any pics of the breakage due to the fact EVERYONE knows what a broken evader looks like..
(so sorry if i sound a lil ticked)
I WAS BARELY MOVIN!!!!I was going backwards and hit the left rear wheel and the right rear side of the chassis broke.Im doing the "CA" mod right now and it is holding up.:thumbsup: Jump after jump the CA holds on tight lmBo

Thanks for the help. I am such a dork. I was plugging into the batt. plug.

I was just installing a high torque hobico CS-65 servo on my newest evader when I realize I may have a problem. Do I need a different servo arm?

The servo is about 3/8" longer from front to back than stock servos and after being mounted. This puts the servo arm in contact with the right servo shaft assembly far enough that the top brace has no room to accept the servo shaft.

Hank once reccomended this servo to me. I hope I didn't order the wrong one.

This and any other discussion on steering servos for the evader would be appreciated.

Hi, philip37 =)

Where did you find the blue parts, particularly the servo arm and half cup? If your servo is wider/longer, you should be able to use one of the arms that came with your servo. I got a "hand me down" servo from an E-Maxx that I mounted in my EVST. I used the four-arm thingy that came with the servo and cut three of the arms off. The "new" servo was about the same size as the old one, so instead of having the ball stud mounted facing the rear of the truck, I have it mounted facing forward on the new arm. Fits like a glove now. The original arm was either short or plus one notch on the gear, which is why I used one of the arms from the package. Hope this helps!

You have to be careful when changing the servo horn.I used my stock servo arm on another vehicle due to me changing to a hitec in the Evader.I noticed a considerable loss in steering throw.I have a Futaba 9404 in it now cause I hated not having the full throw of the steering.Just something for you to ponder about.

2nd- I pirated the Futaba S9402 high-speed coreless BB servo from my gas buggy and put it in the Evader and I'll never go back. I ran it a little bit today after I finished boring A-arms and hub carriers and the steering was insane. I may have to change my suspension setup though, because everything moves so much more freely I may need a little stiffer spring in the back to keep from slapping the chassis. Need to get to the track and test.

2nd - good point on the servo horn. I switched over to a hand-me-down servo from baby bro's Maxx when he upgraded. When I use the stock arm on the servo, I have to be careful not to dive hard into a turn with the wheels fully in one direction or it'll lock in that position. Apparently the servo that came with his Maxx has a lot more throw to it.

Geesh! Just noticed that yet another Evader thread has popped up. Why is it that people are too lazy to read a few pages of the two "main" threads? :rolleyes:

Kitty, I am sure you will take this the wrong way, but 1 of the "main" threads has 60= pages and the other has 26??? I agree there is a lot of good info included in both, if you have the time to read all of them. I started the racer thread to focus the discussion. Again sorry if I have offended you or your "main" threads

Hi Gang,

When I first got my EVST I was concerned about the tightness of the hinge points. I contacted a guy who had been into RC for awhile and asked him about my concern. His responce was don't loosen it to much or you will create long term problems. He suggested that I remove the pins, lub with grafite, work the hinge point until loose, clean out the grafite (so it does not continue to wear on the hinge), lub with a grease and reinstall. His point was that if I made the holes to large it would make the car sloppy. He also mentioned that once the holes become enlarged you also run the risk of breaking your hinge points.

My point folks is don't drill to much to fast. I did as he recommended and was able to give me the hinge action I was looking for.

Bill

Kitty you asked:

Hi, philip37 =)

Where did you find the blue parts....

Duratrax, via Tower, sells a lot of EVST parts in blue, green, and yellow.

I have every blue plastic piece for the evader :D
but not the wheels I dont want them:thumbsup:

Here is my EVST with custom bumper and nerf bars. These things save me a lot of dollars worth of broken parts. The nerf bars serve as a chassis reinforcement too!

Originally posted by mrfixit54016
Here is my EVST with custom bumper and nerf bars. These things save me a lot of dollars worth of broken parts. The nerf bars serve as a chassis reinforcement too!

Dude!All I can say is good job!:thumbsup: Now I wouldnt run it like that myself but who ever did those parts give them a pat on the back 4 me.
It is most definately a very good idea esspecially for the Evader.

2nd Gear-

Thanks! I made these myself out of some heavy plastic. I agree that they are not exactly "full race dress" for a stadium truck, but for backyard bashing with my 5 year old son, they are MANDATORY! I may try some from aluminum sheet next and if they are sucessful, maybe Jep can market them to all of you who don't want to leave home un-armed.

By the way, I have a 20 tooth pinion on a 13T Orion Rush motor with an Intellispeed ESC in that truck.

Originally posted by mrfixit54016
2nd Gear-

Thanks! I made these myself out of some heavy plastic. I agree that they are not exactly "full race dress" for a stadium truck, but for backyard bashing with my 5 year old son, they are MANDATORY! I may try some from aluminum sheet next and if they are sucessful, maybe Jep can market them to all of you who don't want to leave home un-armed.

By the way, I have a 20 tooth pinion on a 13T Orion Rush motor with an Intellispeed ESC in that truck.

Lets not speak to jep about making them in aluminum but keep them plastic.You did it right the first time.I have had a ton of alum for various vehicles and it isnt worth spending the money when it bends way too easy and not to mention the weight it adds.If it were nitro cool but it isnt good for electric..