Hey hank, do you have any shots of your Evader with out the shell on it????????:wave:

2nd, Thought I did but couldn't find them... not much to see other then I have some "green" stuff on it. I'll have to get some taken and put them on-line since I now have new electronics in it.

do you have the green bell cranks?
I am getting my evader back this weekend it is all blue, shy of the bell cranks..:dude:

Originally posted by 22Racer
I tried the b2 28 teeth one that one I can hear skipping, so I took it back out.

Hi 22Racer,

I took out the 6570 last night - it was skipping bad. I am back to the Duratrax idler for now. Everything looks good and tight in my tranny, & it spins freely, I just don't get why I am popping idlers. Diff is tight, and slipper loose. I'm curious, what motor and pinion are you using? Under what driving conditions do you tend to pop the idler, (dirt and jumps)? I have stock Photon, and a 23t pinion, I am going back down to 20t.

Jep

dudes it aint the idler gear it is the topshaft......Ever notice how when you take apart your tranny there is a part on the idler that has a patch worn?It is the same size as the topshaft gear.:eek: when i sold my evader to my friend I bought a extra idler for it just to be kind and we had it apart and noticed how the idler gear was getting chewed by the topshaft..:cry: Try taking a file to the teeth on your topshaft and make it have rounded points and this "should"solve the problem..The stock part has flat spots on the tip of every tooth..

oh 1 more thing to consider,If the diff was doing this wouldnt the diff's plastic gear get chewed at the same time??;)

Thanks for the tip 2nd Gear - this does make a lot of sense. I am fairly new to HobbyTalk - I had heard "it's the top-shaft" before, but never gotten the details about the flat spots on the teeth, and frankly I haven't looked that closely at it. I will pull my tranny tonight and check it out, I will also do some top-shaft teeth comparisons at my LHS to see if the Evader teeth are noticably "flatter". Man it would be great to stop blowing idlers, I think I have every other weak spot on my truck fixed, and it is running pretty darn good at our track.

Jep

Originally posted by jep_rc
Thanks for the tip 2nd Gear - this does make a lot of sense. I am fairly new to HobbyTalk - I had heard "it's the top-shaft" before, but never gotten the details about the flat spots on the teeth, and frankly I haven't looked that closely at it. I will pull my tranny tonight and check it out, I will also do some top-shaft teeth comparisons at my LHS to see if the Evader teeth are noticably "flatter". Man it would be great to stop blowing idlers, I think I have every other weak spot on my truck fixed, and it is running pretty darn good at our track.

Jep
jep-rc if you can look at a assoc. topshaft try and see if the hole for the pin that the slipper goes over is ruffly in the same location and then check over all length of the assoc topshaft compared to the evaders..washer will most definately be needed but it is worth it to get rid of the idler chewing topshaft,But this could be solved using the stock piece by doing some filing with a triangular shaped file..

The reason the top shaft is flat on the top of the teeth is because the outside diameter is too small. because of this the teeth on the gear are not long enough meaning less engagement. I think the asc. top shaft is different by a couple teeth. Is there any other ratio one we could look at? I tried a harder idler, the ones I got from boston gear. (delrin)I had to use 2 because they were only 1/8 inch wide. They didn't work I lost a couple teeth. They did chew into the diff gear though, only on one side, this got me thinking the diff gear might be out of round. With the diff out you can really move the gear around and flex it. My 29 tooth aluminum pinion gears will be here monday or tues. I'm machining them to use as an Idler, I'll let you know how they work.

Well the aluminum idler woked excellent, for a couple minutes. The diff gear lost a couple teeth. Tomorrow I'm going to try to retrofit a asc. diff gear. the teeth are the same but the bearing is different and the balls run to far out on the washer. Hank are you using a mod motor with the stock tranny? I've got 2 cases they are from the same mold I can tell.

i have an evader with a LRP F1 Pro reversing esc and i just got a P-94 12 turn layered. i need an opinion on what size pinion to use and also was wondering if the motor mount/ heat sink really works.

thanks for your help
-smojoe

I would try a 14 pinion gear. just a guess, best motor I have is a chameleon. I run a couple teeth smaller with that.

14?!? i use it for backyard bashing and with the stock 18 tooth it took 2 1/2 packs just to get the motor and ESC every hot. the smallest pinion i have is 16, but im looking for speed, not runtime and all that stuff.

Man a 16 tooth?I hope your runnin it in the am youll be able to cook some eggs on that puppy!..LOL all kidding aside..remember the low turn mods dont have the torque of higher turn mods.this is why you need a smaller pinion...Also the 12 turn will rev higher (spin faster) then the 20turn stocker.You will take longer to get to top speed then it would take ya in the stock configuration.Personally I would go with a 13tooth,I hate driving my vehicle with only two pulls on the trigger then it dies.plus I like torque..(but this is me and not you this I know)But what ever you do I hope your having fun doing it.:thumbsup:

The associated diff gear works awesome. All I did was bore the center bearing hole out to the larger 9mm size. You have to use the washers that are for the asc. diff gear (2.40). We had a backyard race tonight our track is hard on things it has alot of jumps. (see the coming soon, pictures of my track thread, not the first ones) We even put the chameleon in after the races. Let me know how your stock trannys hold up to those mod motors.

i will gear down now. took it out yesterday and did a speed run on my driveway, and ended up busting the diff. if you've ever taken the diff apart, you would know that the gear and the little ball-bearing holders are one part, but now mines not.... outside runnin for like 2 mins and now i have to wait a week to get the stuff from tower. oh well, guess i better trust you guys!

I think the gearing being wrong didn't cause the diff gear to break. Now I know what they do with old milk cartons after they've been recycled. They make transmission gears for the evader. just kidding but the material the gears are made of is the problem. Try boiling the new gear before putting it in. I might be selling a idler and diff gear kit if alot of people need them.

maybe the gearing wasnt the problem, but i think it was. also, when i took the diff apart, there was a lot of funk and the balls were not very well lubricated. so it may be a little of everything.

Originally posted by 2nd Gear
dudes it aint the idler gear it is the topshaft......

Well 2ndGear, don't say "I told you so", but you were right about the top-shaft:eek:. I finally got into my tranny last night, and man it wasn't even as subtle as the teeth being flat, I have two teeth on my top shaft that are down-right defective:cry:. One of the teeth is kinda round and fat (when looking at the tooth profile sighting down parallel to the shaft) and has a gouge at the base of the tooth. Another tooth is too short, and instead of being flat, it comes to a knife-edge point. This top-shaft clearly has machining defects from the factory, the rest of the teeth simply are not precise - I am going to try to take a digital macro pic of this gear - you won't believe it! I feel soooo stupid for not examining the top-shaft sooner, probably would have saved 4 idlers and 2 diff gears by now.

Any way, my LHS didn't have one so it's on order from Tower. I'll try to post the pic tonight, and let everyone know how the new top-shaft looks/works for me.

Jep
Visit Jep-R/C Evader Hop-Ups www.geocities.com/jep_rc

jep_rc Im glad I could of helped ya.I can wait to see the pic,You might want to get in touch with duratrax and tell them about the topshaft....And tell the to send u a new one :devil:..Heck I would tell them to send all new gears for the tranny..:devil:

Originally posted by 2nd Gear
<snip>... I can wait to see the pic...<snip>

Sorry for the delay, I haven't had a chance to crack open the tranny for the pic - gotta long "honey-do" list I am working on to make sure I have plenty of track time this weekend ;) I will try to put up the pic before Monday.

Jep
For Jep-R/C Evader Hop-Ups visit: www.geocities.com/jep_rc

Thanks Jeff. The Evader front brace change up arrived in the mail a couple of days ago. This really looks like the fix for the Evader's glass bulkhead.

Originally posted by philp37
Thanks Jeff. The Evader front brace change up arrived in the mail a couple of days ago. This really looks like the fix for the Evader's glass bulkhead.

Your welcome! Thanks for taking a chance on a new product. I have had *very* good luck since putting these pin braces on both of our Evaders. We were fine-tuning a new table-top at our track last week-end and I crashed the truck in about every conceivable way possible - I know I would toasted the bulkhead if I didn't have the braces on.

Well - I got my new top-shaft in last night. I couldn't get good enough macro pics to show you guys the defects on the old one, but the new one looks a *lot* better, teeth are smooth and uniform. I *hope* I can go the weekend without a blown idler.

I'm really suprised how durable our Evaders been. We broke a bunch of parts on a indoor oval but outdoors we havn't broke anything but tranny gears. I got the tranny bulletproofed now. (I hope)
Here's a pic of our Evader, we just painted a new body. (it's only our 2nd one we've painted)

22Racer - Nice paint job, I like it! :thumbsup: Pleeeease tell us exactly what you did to bulletproof the tranny, it is the only thing I still have problems with (idlers). Thanks.

Read the last post on "coming soon pictures of my track" it's not easy but worth it. I think I could sell the altered idler and diff gears for about $20

What motors are you guys running in your evaders? I havnt stripped anything in my gearbox and i have run a 10x1 p-94.

Originally posted by 22Racer
Read the last post on "coming soon pictures of my track" it's not easy but worth it. I think I could sell the altered idler and diff gears for about $20

Diff. gears? what gear differential did you put in there?

I used the Ascociated 2:40 diff gear and washers. the washers are a little bigger because the balls are out closer to the teeth. All that needs to be altered is the center hole from 5/16 (.312) to 9mm (.345)
you could almost do that with a drill at home but it has yo stay centered.
I was just at Brooklyn park tonight the new track layout and dirt is nice.

Oh,i thought you used a gear differential. You should have stopped by my house:wave: I like the new stuff at TCHR because its real dirt not the clay type stuff.:roll:

Hankster,your the only one that i can remember that has put a hitec radio in your evader,im wondering if you put a hitec servo in it also,because i have a hitec 645mg servo that is good and it dosnt have the right number of teeth on the top shaft and it seems to slip,but i havnt installed it yet but i took the horn off and spun the servo with it. I think that DTX only makes horns that fit futaba servos,could i put the 645 in and tighten the screw all the way down? i dont care if it gets wrecked in the long term.

I run a Hitec digital servo in mine. I used the aluminum arm that comes with the digital servo. Hitec has them available for their other servos. The Losi XXT or Associated T3 servo arms should also work and they have some that fit Hitec servos.

I used Associated servo horns on mine they are nice pieces.

I am new to rc and was looking at the evader for my first truck. I was hoping for suggestions about what should be the first hop ups for it. thanks:thumbsup:

Colored pieces are my favorite cause they look so cool. I would get one of jep rc's brace set or and aluminum front brace to keep the bulkhead from breaking.

I took a red 4-armed servo horn from the box that my hitec came in and cut off 3 arms and somehow got it to work,its better than the stock evader one because this one has no flex and is tough.:roll:

jdm-
is the ball for the ball cup facing tword the front or back?

Jacob-
first i would get a new set of rear tires. the little pins pull off in a madder of days and you suddenly get a pair of slicks! :lol: the fronts are good, but you need to keep the bearings for them clean. a new servo would also be in order. even something with a little more torque (i used a futabe S3003 untill i got my hitec) will make you notice a differenc.

Front,are you gonna do what i did?

jdm-
yep. well, actually, i allready started.

make sure the side your putting the ballstud is a thick side cause the thin ones crack easier and have more flex,dont try to screw the ballstud in there before you drill the hole because it will crack it,put the ballstud in the top hole.

thanks jdm, caught that rite before i cut off the other thick arm.

Originally posted by 2nd Gear
When a manufacturer puts a warranty on a product it means they are selling a quality piece and that they stand behind it.So what this mean is the big 3 make a car and warraty it it is junk right?????No what you just said doesnt make sense.Assoc.-Losi dont have a warranty because they dont stand behind their parts..Can you say TC3 arms?????Snap!Plus Assoc. and Losi sell thier trucks for racing so they know someone will be smokin fast and hit someone or something sooner or later.If these to comapnys had a warranty they would go broke in a month.And no plastic like the cold any type of plastic.Graphite doesnt either.So it isnt Duratra's fault it is the person driving it in the cold.DUH!


Right on man! I would have bought an Evader for my first Hobby class R/C, except I listened to a bunch of uninformed trash talking people who didn't even own Evaders or owners that did not know how to drive, or take care of their R/Cs'. I am so happy with the Evaders that I have just purchased my second one. If you can't say something nice keep your mouth shut it's that simple.

I have decided to buy a evader st after my friend bought one. at first he was breaking the front bulkhead left and right until he got it in blue aluminum. now it is indistructible! we were both at the small track me and him made by the sewers and I was driving my brothers electric stampede. we were playing follow the leader and his right front tire crashed into a piece of wood that we use to cover the ramps when we were gone. well anyway, he spun out and all you could see was dust and i didnt have time to react so i drove straight into it. we heard a loud crunch and when the dirt settled both trucks were on there backs. we hurried to check them out and to our surprise both trucks were okay ( which says something about the stampede stock )!:thumbsup: and what about all the tranny issues with the truck? my friend hasnt had any problems.

i think i have heard rumors about a evader bx and they were recently confirmed when i went to omnimodels.com today! under the duratrax listing it says : duratrax evader ep bx with esc rtr : I clicked on it and sure enough there it was. it is due to come in late september.
hankster, you have to review it! looks pretty good for 189.99$
:dude:

We'll see if we can get our hands on one. They are also coming out with an electic on-road car too. Look in the RC News section for some details.

If you read the thread I started called Evader Owners, there is a pic of the evader buggy on the last (or second to last) page.

Hankster i would recommend checking it out its pretty awesome. I hope they come out with it, because im thinking of buying a buggy. Got any recommendations?

problem: whenever i make a turn, the inside wheel points in more than the outside wheel. is this a big problem or should i not worry about it?

Speedy, I plan on giving it a look over.

smojoe, This is normal. Since the inside wheel turns in a small circle then the outside wheel it has to turn more. All cars/trucks, RC and full size, do this. A better explanation is at http://users.ids.net/~bdfelice/ackerman.html and http://www.auto-ware.com/setup/ack_rac.htm

hankster did u have any recommendations.

i have also heard rumors about a evader monster truck. i hope it comes out soon:hat: