Im getting better at painting but its still not at the level i want. I used to have problems with runs and bubbles but i pretty much have that under control. The main problem im facing now is chipping. I want my paint to be tough and durable like the paint on regular johnny lightning/greenlights.

These are the steps i take.

primer
sand
primer
sand
paint
wetsand
paint
wetsand
clercoat/gloss

I think its the primer i use because when it chips i can see baremetal. I usually use the testors spray. I am now using only automotive paint which works a lot better then the spray cans from the hobby shop.

If anyone has any suggestions, im all ears

Thanks, Ryan :wave:

try etching primer sold at auto stores. i think you will like this stuff. it doe's cost alil but well worth it.

ive had good luck with plasti kote sandable primer.but i usually sand the casting before i apply the primer.i was told about adhesion prometer but i havent had a chance to try it yet.hope this helps.
keep the paint flying ttfn johnny:cool:

Oooooops

Enamels can be baked in the oven. I use mine at home. Not pullin' rank but if your living at home with family get this operation OK'd with everyone before you do it. I use Krylon Primer baked at 400F 1 to 1.5 min in the final prep. Sand this lightly. Spray color. Bake at 400F 1 to 1.5 min. This does make the paint flow and harden. It also brings out EVERY imperfection in the prep work. Best thing would be a dedicated breakfast oven to bake the paint. Be assured every oven is different and you will probably ruin a couple of finishes before you find what works. FNP works over Krylon as well. Hair dryer heat only. I still have to clear coat

Where yat Lightning,
It appears obvious from the steps you're taking that you realize body prep is key to a good looking paintjob.
I have never sanded in between paint coats simply because the HOK automotive paint I use lays down nice wet smooth coats making the sanding unnecessary.

If you can't get your hands on some HOK primer try this.
You can use Painters Place Grey Equipment Primer 20014 from the Aerosol Dept. (not the Automotive section) of WalMart. It's about 90 cents a can.
Take it out of the can and cut it 1/3 with Mineral Spirits or Paint Thinner for use in your AirBrush.
The thinned down Primer will spray on super smooth and super thin without the usual dry sandy overspray common with aerosol primers.

Since you've stepped up to Automotive Paints what Clearcoat ae you using?
Are you using a Urethane Enamel?
The use of a Primer along with good Automotive Paints and a Uethane Enamel Clearcoat should give your paint the durability you are looking for.

I sand my castings starting with files, then150 grit, then 220 and finally 320.
The 320 is fine enough to not leave scratches showing up when you begin laying down colorcoats.

Somewhere here on the Customs Board is one of my How-To's about the Fact-O-Bake Ovens I build.
My ovens bake my castings at around 170-190 degrees.
Anything higher is way too hot for our purposes.
Rushing the job with unnecessary, dramatically high temperatures will cause you problems.
Also, the Ovens I build allow for gentle curing of your paint. You don't want to boil the paint.
I use these ovens for everything from curing bonding putty's, drying freshly washed castings, to curing Intercoat Clear on my Decal sheets.
They also keep my Customs clean and dust free as they are in the workline.
Here's a shot of one of 2 of the 4 Ovens I use,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Customizing%20Tools/Oven2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Jenna%20Jameson/SnowWhiteCaddys.jpg

Everywhere I've talked about Customs I stress cleanliness.
When you've finished all your filing and sanding I would brush the casting off with a small brass wire brush (available at any Dollar Store).
The Brass is soft enough not to scar the raw casting but firm enough to remove any residue in body lines or door jams.
Next wash the casting with a mild soap and water using a toothbrush.
Rinse the toothbrush and use it to rinse the casting.
Dry the casting off with a chamois or imitation chamois.
Towels, paper towels or T-Shirts will leave lint on your casting.
Just before I begin painting I brush off my castings with one of the puffy makeup brushes that women use to apply powder with.
You can buy these at any Dollar Store.

If you have any other questions on painting I'll be glad to help.

-CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/NewMOFOMidnightRacingFuelWebSigcopy.jpg

Thanks everyone, you have all been a big help as always!

I dont even really think i need to sand after painting, but i cant stand the smallest imperfection.

Products ive been using:

Paint: Dupli-Color Acrylic Enamel Automotive Paint
Sand paper: sand primer with 200-800, paint with 2000+
Clear coat: Testors 1261 Gloss Coat

I do place a very large heat lamp over my cars as soon as im done painting, but it would be nice to have a oven for 5-6 cars. This would solve the dust problem as well.

Im going to go try out the HOK stuff