hi im having trouble remembering what the readouts my car should be on the back right and left tires. if anyone can help please do. o and if fronts mater to u can givve me those. thanks

sorry i didn't specify my car: 04 maverick opc

It will depend on your setup and track. Example I run 12.2 on LR, 10.0 on RR, 11.7 on LF, and 5.4 on RF with out the Body. This seems to work for me at my home track (asphalt mild banking).

Since the weights on different cars can be slightly different, no one can give you exact numbers. It's better to talk in percentages. garacer08's car weighs 39.3 oz. He has:

31% on left rear
44% cross weight
56% rear weight
44% front weight
60% left side weight

Using percentages keeps you from trying to match a number that your car can not reach because it's total weight is different.

Also don't get locked into the my car needs this much weight at this track syndrome. There are too many variables. What I do is pick a starting weight and go out and practice. Than I keep taking weight off of the left rear until the car gets loose then add a little back. Scale it then and fine tune the weights.

Well I run a 04 Maverick as well.
You can check the Maverick fourm for more info on setup
But on a 145ft oval flat carpet track I ran.
225-300G LF
100-150G RF
385-400G LR
200-250G RR

Really Depends on the track and what class!

Taylor

Ok thanks for the help this will really usefull!:woohoo:

what kinda scales do u guys use ?im new to using scales ... so this could be a leason well learned .. could u hit me up with brands an prices?

Since the weights on different cars can be slightly different, no one can give you exact numbers. It's better to talk in percentages. garacer08's car weighs 39.3 oz. He has:31% on left rear44% cross weight56% rear weight44% front weight60% left side weightUsing percentages keeps you from trying to match a number that your car can not reach because it's total weight is different.Also don't get locked into the my car needs this much weight at this track syndrome. There are too many variables. What I do is pick a starting weight and go out and practice. Than I keep taking weight off of the left rear until the car gets loose then add a little back. Scale it then and fine tune the weights.

You are 100% RIGHT!
The big thing with measuring static weight on your vehicle is that
you use 4 scales and NOT 2 on a level board.

You are 100% RIGHT!
The big thing with measuring static weight on your vehicle is that
you use 4 scales and NOT 2 on a level board.

I don't think it matters how many scales you use...
You can find out all you want, with one.

Dan; at the race track, I agree 100% About all you want to do is look at the left rear weight.

Back here on the work bench though, having four is nice especially with major rebuilds. Plus if you go to the same track or series of tracks, you can make more accurate setup notes when you read all four corners.

The biggest problem I have with looking back on my notes is; first of all I don't keep very good ones and second; I seldom bring the same car back to the track. I have a problem keeping my fingers out of it and not changing things...ESPECIALLY after a long winter layoff.

I don't think it matters how many scales you use...
You can find out all you want, with one.

Its not going to weight accurately as the scale compresses the weights will be off.
There's a huge margin for error.

Most if the time 1 scale would be fine. I have tired using 1 scale and if the other 3 wheels are not on the same plane/level it will throw off the real weight. I have taken a .020. or .030 shims and put them under 1 scale and not the other 3 and it will give you wrong numbers. A lot of times I have used the other 3 scales as a balance point.

But it seems that I have to use all 4 when I help out the newbies who have the weights all jacked around. It is alot faster to get them closer to where the should be.

Its not going to weight accurately as the scale compresses the weights will be off.
There's a huge margin for error.

Hardly huge.
That used to be true with spring based diet scales,
that would travel 1/2" with a 300g load.
but as I have said before, with electronic load based units,
the movement is <.004"...

If the deflection issue seems like a big factor to you,
then I ask you this. With regards to accuracy.
If there is this large difference in load deflection, then how can
your results be accurate using four scales?
If your right front is 180g and your left rear is 380g,
then your car is not sitting the way it sits on the floor..
The plane of the tops of the scales, is not in parallel with the earth.

That said... it is nice to see all of your weights at the same time, I agree,
however, the reality is, if you had one high quality scale,and three
blanks, you would get more accurate results than 4 cheap scales...
Because 3 points of reference would be constant at all times,
as opposed to only those with similar loads.

But whatever works out best for each guy, is the best method when you
come down to it, as these units are far from scientific quality...
I'd say it's more important to just do it the same all the time,
then to worry about how many you use... being able to monitor changes
is the goal.