Hello All:

I'm a newbe to slot car racing (never even seen a real car race but do have an HO railroad layout.) However, no matter how old I get I still like toys!

Had an inexpensive HO slot car race set about 20 years ago for my 10 year old son, and it broke quick. So, since this hobby (moving/racing model cars) still fascinates me I just purchased a Tomy Giant Raceway and it arrived today.

In order approach this right I first read the instructions that came with the set - overall they are simple and clear. But an extra page was included entitled, "Super G-Plus Car." Here's the first paragraph from it that doesn't make sense and really puzzles me:

"Because of the high performance power of your Super G-Plus car it is recommended that for every 15 minutes of continuous racing your car be taken off the track for 15 minutes. This will prolong the high performance power in your Super G-Plus car."

One reason I purchased a slot car set was because it is continuously powered unlike the battery-powered off-road RC cars, and this instruction defeats this particular reason.

I've been reading these forums for a week or two and not seen anything on this (maybe I missed them.) Is there anything to this instruction? Do you really have to comply with it for any reason? Do you know why it's included? Thanks for your help.

DougG

I dunno. I picked up my step-son his first Tomy a few weeks ago and it is also a Super G-Plus and there was no instruction like that in the packaging that came with it. I'm still a newb myself so perhaps one of the more knowledgeable guys will chime in.

It has to do with the wall pack power supplies....they dont really provide the best power for slotcars little DC motors...

They get hot and the Mfg. is trying to reduce their defective returns by advising customers to cool the car every 15 min.

If you pull the stupid little plastic cover on the bottom of the car covering the motor it will allow more air to get into the motor and help it run cooler.
The cover is there so little Jimmy doesn't burn his fingers by touching said hot motor.
Me, I think after Jimmy does burn his fingers once, he probably will not do it again, so the plastic cover is needless.
It's just Lawyers helping to make your life a little more difficult.

So to sum up, pull the cover and run the crap out of them, if they fail, buy more!
After all that is the American way and we are proud of it :)

Enjoy!
Keith

Uhm... well... Yeah, that says it very well.

Thanks!

As stated, the power packs which come with race sets do not provide clean DC power to the cars. This causes the cars to run hotter than with a good power supply. Reguardless of that, I really doubt you will have problems if you run longer than 15 minutes. I usually don't because I am constantly switching out one car for another, but after a minute or so, I would guess the car has gotten about as hot as it's going to get.
I'm also guessing if you did remove the car from the track, it would only take a minute or so to cool. I'm also guessing there are races where guys run cars for at least an hour straight.
Which begs an interesting question - is it better to heat and cool an armature or just let it get to operating temperature and keep it there until you are done?
You will find many threads in the Track Building section and Tuning section where power supplies are discussed. I suggest you read through a few of those threads and you should get a much clearer idea of why cars run cooler with better power.

Joe

Could be they added that since all new sets come with the soft chassis, which will tend to run a little hotter.

Pomfish; Grandcheapskate; All:

Thank you much for your replies.

I will take your advice Pomfish (indeed the cars don't cost very much,) and when I get some experience under my belt I'll probably take your advice Grandcheapskate (about the power source quality.)

So off comes the "safety shields" and away we go.

Oh, regarding the Chinese-made plug-in transformers - I don't game with airsoft but like to shoot some of the battery rifles. Last year I got a new rifle and plugged in the transformer that came with it to charge the battery first time, and within 60 seconds I could smell and then see the smoke AND the plastic literally melting.

DougG

Most people don't race for 15 min with one car anyway.

Doug, anything ya can do too stay cool is a good thing. Using my first grade math skilz, by tossing the heat sheild your cooling efficency is doubled...or maybe just back to what the engineers had in mind in the first place before some silly nanny got out his trusty pencil and decided to plug the furnace vent. While those heat sheilds keep toddlers from toasting their piddies, in my mind they are like putting a piece of cardboard in front of your 1:1 cars radiator. Which is ok I guess ....if ya live in the Yukon.

Gene makes a good point regarding normal operating temps. Slot cars get warm! Normal op temp shouldnt be confused with excessive temps due to electrical resistance and undue mechanical frictions...or maybe a factory installed foriegn object like a wad of plastic blocking your primary cooling intake ...snicker...just use the rule of thumb and you'll get a feel for it... if ya smell bacon it's hot:p

When you are ready, the power supply advice is good juju. Your cars will run cooler, longer and cleaner. When I made the change the difference was immediatly obvious! Most everything worthwhile I've learned about slots was graciously passed on by the HT membership. Yer in a good place.:thumbsup:

Bill Hall:

Thank you for your welcome, confirmation of previouis advice received, and taking your time to give additional advice.

Also, I'm betting you're absolutely correct that the "pinky shield" on the bottom of the cars is blocking 50% or more of the cooling air. And if I ever burn a pinky there I will definitely remember it.

DougG

I wouldn't sweat it Doug. Those are good cars. Run them all you want but if you notice a car suddenly slow down, even a little, take it off the track and feel it to see if it is hot. If it feels really hot, try to see if anything is binding or rubbing where it shouldn't. After a wreck make sure the body is still sitting correctly on the car. And of course, make sure you oil the car. I suggest using a needle oiler like this and oiling all the bearing surfaces on the car. On the Super G+ I recommend removing the magnet clip to get a better shot at the rear motor bushing for oiling. But if you are hesitant to do this, using a needle oiler will give you a better chance of getting the oil just where it is needed, which is where the motor shaft goes through the motor bushings. Putting a tiny amount of oil where the rear axle meets the chassis helps, but use very little as any excess will be slung all over your car and track.

http://www.shopatron.com/product/part_number=741/137.0.6083.11625.0.0.0

How often to oil? Maybe check it every half hour our so of running time. Definitely check it if the car starts behaving funny, slowing down or making rubbing or squealing noises. If it squeals after less than a half hour of running, or it there's still plenty of oil on the bearing surfaces, adjust your oiling schedule accordingly. You're better off using a small amount of oil more frequently than too much oil all at once. Most people over oil their cars. If you are going to put your car in storage for an extended period of time, make sure you disassemble the chassis (to the degree you are comfortable with) and clean any excess oil off the car before very lightly oiling it with fresh oil.

The best cure for any concerns about wearing out cars too quickly is to buy more cars! Run one type of car, say open wheel cars for a while, switch over to NASCARs, then trucks, road racers, rally cars, GTPs, muscle cars, tuners, and so on. Try different brands of cars and different styles of chassis. After trying a few types you'll develop a comfort level with some more than others in terms of care and maintenance as well as how they work on the track. Find your own fun and comfort zone.

DougG,
Welcome to the HO Board of information out of the wazoo. All good tips, aimed to point you into the depths of HO addiction as we have all become, those of us posting here. Sniff the oil, feel the chassis, get better controllers, upgrade from warts when you can, get a whole lot of cars and ENJOY. Welcome again and have fun.
:thumbsup::thumbsup: rr

When you get to the point that you can run your cars continously for 15 minutes without coming off the track you can start worrying about the cars.:lol:
And then keep driving them anyway...:D

Scott

When you get to the point that you can run your cars continously for 15 minutes without coming off the track you can start worrying about the cars.:lol:
And then keep driving them anyway...:D

Scott

Scott,
Good point. I can't recall running one for 15 mnutes. :freak: Dave

Scott,
Good point. I can't recall running one for 15 mnutes. :freak: Dave

No kiddin...Gas is on the right Grampa!

Welcome aboard!!!
One of the effects of cars with traction magnets is heat. Because the magnets are strong with this car they (Tomy) wants you to cool it down. Also makes you run out and buy more cars. I have seen cars such as Life-Like lose speed and even burn out do to non-stop running. On the other hand when I sold slot cars at the toy show in my area I would have T-jets run the enter show. Take off the shield and make sure you oil them and they will last. Watch out for hair and carpet fibre!!! They will kill your motor.:woohoo::woohoo:

All:

Thanks for all the excellent advice, especially lubing and keeping the car and tracks clean.

I will admit if I get hooked on slot cars like I've been with HO railroading I'm in trouble, partly cause I've also been buying some Fn3 (F scale narrow gauge railroad) locos and cars (no track to operate on yet; takes a LOT of room.)

As info, F scale is taking outdoor garden railroad track (45mm between rails) and instead of calling that standard gauge (4' 8.5" between the rails) you call it US narrow gauge (3'0" between the rails,) thus making the size of the locos and cars much bigger. Practical minimum track radius is 4' (8' diameter.) I'm partial to this because I used to work on the steam locomotives of one of the US narrow gauge railroads which is now an operating tourist line out in CO and NM.

Back to slot cars I've not set up the track yet. I took each car and put it on the electrical connection track with the back wheels up to test them. I couldn't get the second car's front end to stay in the slot so I turned the car upside down and saw that the guide pin was bent at 90 degrees. I called Roadmasters and they're sending a tune up kit.

DougG

I turned the car upside down and saw that the guide pin was bent at 90 degrees. I called Roadmasters and they're sending a tune up kit.DougG

If I didn't know any better I'd swear this sounds suspiciously like "customer service". So it does exist. I thought this was just a concept? I'm glad to hear your problem was well received and taken to heart Doug. That is a terrific "welcome to the hobby" action taken by Racemasters that seems to be getting rare these days. This is what I like to see happen. New guy, new to the hobby, plugs in power pack, puts car on track, pulls trigger, 1st car runs, puts 2nd car on track, doesn't run, calls mfg, problem taken care of, and in turn customer walks away happy and ultimately more likely to purchase goods from the mfg again... If the hobby is to grow and be taken to heart by new guys... this kind of thing has got to happen again and again. Stuff has GOT to work right outta da box!!!...or if it doesn't a simple call makes sure it will. Welcome Doug, have fun with with the new layout!!!! nd