Do I need to run the cap or can I take it off? I saw a few Pro uilt cars that Frank did not have the cap on. I don't want to take it off if it's going to damage the speedo..Any info on this will help me a bunch :thumbsup:

Preston,I dont run the cap on my 10-5 or my 13-5 never have with no problem.
Phillip

depends on who you ask. lol I don't run mine on my 4-cell GTB either :) 10.5

Raymond

I saw this post and it caught my eye. I'm running 13.5 Novak with the GTB speed control. (I bought the kit) and I'm thinking of removing that "huge" cap that Novak insists that you use! If I remove it; is it just a process of desoldering it from the speed control or is there any thing else that needs to be done. The reason is that I would like to re-mount the speed control on the left rear on my KSG Gen 1 pan car and mount it on it's side and shorten the "mile" long wire that Novak gives you.

Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to take it off. :thumbsup:

Charlie from Novak said it's ok to remove that 50-gallon-drum-cap .... as long as you keep an extra $180 in your pocket.

Most guys at our track are running it as a result.

I wish charlie would come up with a smaller cap design then..lol

That cap saved my ass a month ago...I borrowed a battery, and not thinking (Because this person usually runs it the same way, but HE let someone else borrow it as well) the + and - bars were backwards, if I didn't have the cap on, "Hello Novak? Yeah, I need a speedo".....

Besides, I don't think they design anything just for the heck of it, there's a reason behind everything, and there's a reason why it's on the speedo.....

Yeah I know. I've always wondered why the Sphere Competition has that nice little one and the Novak needs to have that 50-gallon-drum.

I think they need to make it bigger so I can stuff an extra sub c cell in there and heat shrink it to go faster!!!LOL

lol Ken.. I like the idea behind the cap but i'm having trouble geting it mounted. Bill how did you have it mounted in the CW?

Heres a few pics of how I have it mounted I just can't figure out a place to mount it.

I un-soldered it from the speedo, and solder it straight to the battery when I put the battery in the car, it's actually soldered "In Conjunction" with the battery leads on the speedo to the battery.
I zip tied the wires Together ( +speedo/cap, -Speedo/cap), and just solder them like the cap isn't even on....

A buddy of mine bought a remanufactured LRP Sphere... it didn't have a cap at all!? This must have been a mistake right?? It was sealed in the package (but reman.)

Yeah I would think so.

Heres a few pics of how I have it mounted I just can't figure out a place to mount it.

Where did you install that HUGE cap?.............

Opps I ment pics of how the speedo was mounted. I still am working on geting the cap mounted.

BTW.....Nice Car......:wave::D

Got it in there.

Tommy,

I have a Sphere and a Sphere COMP (old version)

The Sphere doesn't have a Cap and the Comp does. I got them both used, and believe they are both STOCK that way.

I left mine on because i dont want to avoid novaks warrenty. Something unexpected could happen and you would be up for a new 180.00 GTB when if you have the cap you may be able to return it. If i spend 180.00 on something i like to have it for a while.

If know what im saying

Preston, I built a lipo car and decided to put the cap back on,so all I didwas unsolder the wire from the cap and ad longer wire so I can place it wherever I wanted to.Hope this helps.
Phillip

Not running the cap HURTS performance and effeciency. Changing the wire length changes the value of the cap.

lol Ken.. I like the idea behind the cap but i'm having trouble geting it mounted. Bill how did you have it mounted in the CW?

I like Bill's idea, that's pretty slick..

If you want to keep the wires short, you can remove the
cap from the unit, and shorten and bend them to 'fit' it to the
top of the esc... I never liked it flopping around or taped to
the body post much either...

you can check my photo page to see what I mean, if you want..

Not running the cap HURTS performance and effeciency. Changing the wire length changes the value of the cap.


lol Lin not pickin on yah but I have seen these things all different lenths from Novak



Preston should have called me. wait till you see Scott's car

I've been thinking about putting that Trans-Cap-modual on my LRP for safety sake. It does several functions that I feel are needed. I have left it on my other three GTB's since I don't carry an extra $180 in my pocket.

Low ESR 4600uf Capacitor, stiffens the voltage to ESC and mostly eliminates ripple currents. Computers motorbords/power supplies use these too.

Ceramic Capacitors, highspeed capacitor that reduces eletrical noise. Sorta like the three little disk capacitors that we used to solder to can motors

Voltage Clamp, Helps eliminates voltage spikes and surges that can damage the ESC.

Dont run the cap heat sink or fan in 13.5 never have never will, never on and off the trigger if I was to run a mod car I would through it back on.GTB

Use to run a original Sphere did not come with one never any problems with it.

I have allways bought used Gtbs or Spheres so they have all had use other than me never any problems I do run a cap plugged in to my spektrum rx and a bigboytoys machined flat heat sink on the GTBs.

In fact I have never bought a new brushless anything spend 90 to 100 on the esc and 50 on motors.And I would say my cars work just fine.:thumbsup:

Jake

running a 13.5 or 10.5 your probally ok on 4 cells.I know from experience you cant get away with it with 6 cells. The speedo heats up real bad and goes into thermal. found that out running a 8.5. The car was running fine all day and then it suddenly starts to thermal at about the 3 1/2 - 4 minute mark. thought maybe i had seized a bearing in the motor or something, so in the process of pulling the motor to check it out I notice the neg. wire going to the cap board was loose. soldered it back on and it went back to running perfect.

Do I need to run the cap or can I take it off? I saw a few Pro uilt cars that Frank did not have the cap on. I don't want to take it off if it's going to damage the speedo..Any info on this will help me a bunch :thumbsup:

If you take it off then you're cheating! Any modification that changes the power of the motor (going to or produced) is cheating.

IM JUST KIDDING!

however according to some of the logic I have seen on the boards, you could be accused :rolleyes:

When I ran the novak stuff I was told that it voids the warrenty if you take it off (as some others have said). But I have seen it work with or without and haven't noticed a difference either way. I would keep it on to be safe.

-Adam

...I always thought it had to be cheating IF YOU RAN the capacitors ( I remember the Cyclones seeing some of the team guys running 3-5 capacitors...)

haha.. I don't know. I was just "bustin balls."


-Adam

Just so everyone knows, you NEED the cap NO MATTER WHAT.

With Brushed ESCs and full throttle, you don't see any switching, the ESC is always just on. Well, with BL ESC's that IS NOT THE CASE, the ESC IS ALWAYS SWITCHING.

YOu know that feeling you get that an ESC "gets slow", well, that ALWAYS happens with the guys that don't run the caps. This is because the switching the ESC is doing actually damages the ESC very slowly. The Cap stops that damage.

RUN THE CAP, RUN THE CAP, RUN THE CAP. I don't care what anyone says, I've seen so many "slow" ESC's missing caps, but never one with the cap.

I'm running it :thumbsup:

+++ All my GTB's have the TransCap....soon my LRP will too. The only chance I like taking are winning the lotto.

Geez

Looks like I'll keep that brick, uh, cap.

However I got a Spektrum receiver cap I'm really tempted to solder on instead of the stock NOVAK cap. The Spektrum cap has 4700uF 10v rating whereas the Novak has a 5600uF 10v rating. Would the Spektrum cap work, if not why?

Consider that the caps on the brushless controllers tend to get hot (I've measured some at 140F) and ask yourself whether a simple glitch preventer cap is lilely to be speced for high temp operation.

I never checked the temp on the cap. Didn't think they could get so hot...