I've always used the little cans of Pactra paint from my local hobby shops to paint my bodies. Depending on my paint scheme, I've spent as much as $80 to cover a 1/4 scale body. I have heard of racers using other types of paint normally used to paint plastics. What do you use? How do you prep before painting?

Thanks,

I use FASKOLOR water base paint about $4.50 per bottle, I think it's a Parma Product. Then when it is finished I use there FASKOTE Sealer, it seems to hold up very well against our fuel. I use about 8 full bottles for painting and sealing at a cost of less than $40.00...
As far as prep I wash the inside with Denatured Alcohol before I apply my mask and then rewash after I work with it just before painting. I should add that you need a Air Brush to use this paint...

Dave D
Owner and Crew #3 Mike Dygon
MPRNN

I thought that was the way to go too with the denatured alcohol, but it tends to dull the finish. Not much, but enough.

I use Dawn dish washing liquid and water. I wash twice and let dry on it's own in a dust free enviroment. Usualy 24 hours. Using a heat gun or dryer will spit stuff on the surface you can't see.

Then I just use between 3 - 4 cans of the Pactra Racing Finish spray bombs, and that is if I use 2 colors. Dark usualy covers good and back it up with white. My bodies are always under 3 lbs using this method and the paint lasts longer than the body..lol.

The decals are what cost, but the paint bill is usualy around $15. It just takes more time doing it this way.

The advantage of the Alcohol is you're drying time and touch up capability. If you know you may have a problem with an area after you're ready to paint, you can just wipe that area down with a clean cloth and alcohol like Dave was saying.

Remember, when you are done, put some duct tape over the contact areas of the body, so it dosen't get scuffed up from the chassis.

I have seen the spray paint for plastic at Home Depot, (used for outdoor lawn furniture and the likes), wonder if anyone has tried this. You could probably paint a couple of bodies with the regular can. The only draw back is there are limited colors. I just may have to be the ginny pig!....... Although I think you can get eggplant!

But for the post....its wash, blow dry, a light sand here and there....and 4 cans of pactra.

I've tried the airbrush, but usually in a hurry and you don't have to clean cans.

I have seen the spray paint for plastic at Home Depot, (used for outdoor lawn furniture and the likes), wonder if anyone has tried this. You could probably paint a couple of bodies with the regular can. The only draw back is there are limited colors. I just may have to be the ginny pig!....... Although I think you can get eggplant!

But for the post....its wash, blow dry, a light sand here and there....and 4 cans of pactra.

I've tried the airbrush, but usually in a hurry and you don't have to clean cans.
I used that a long time ago it is very thick and very heavy

I used that a long time ago it is very thick and very heavy

How did it hold up? Weight is not a problem.....actually it works good for me.

I wash the bodies in the shower with hot water and dish soap. Dry and then scuff with real fine steel wool. Rewash and dry,mask and then apply Automotive paint. Laquer works best but is difficult to find these days. Dupont Chroma base sysyem works well also. Practa cans are quick but expensive. Check out the paint department at Walmart or Meijer stores. The Automotive touch up paint not the house paint. You can find many different colors of Dupli-color that are Laquer based. Check them out at $4.98 a can for an 11 oz. can its fairly inexpensive compared to the Pactra cans with 3 oz. at $5.69 a can.
You can also find the Dupli-color at NAPA stores and possibly at other automotive parts houses.
One note on paint.... DO NOT USE ENAMEL on Lexan it does NOT stick.

Good luck, Fred

The key to using Laquer paint is to do it in light coats. This paint will actually etch itself into the plastic. The pactra cans are laquer based paints so light coats here also. Also you can add a flex agent to automotive paints but if done in light coats it is not a must do thing. Also when painting if you do it with light coats there is less of a chance for the baint to bleed under the masking.

Fred

multi colors are to hard to do with the light coats pactra paint has flex additive in it shure it costs a bit more but these bodys do to i would rather pay a little more for something that i dont have to worry about because every body i paint is all paint no stickers bottom line is i got 130 in body 75 in my mask there is no way i am gona cut corner on paint not to mention the hours it will take to lay it out

I use Pactra only.

scuffing the body is fine for soild colors but not for metalics it will show up to bad because those metal flakes love any inprofection they are sprayed on have never scuffed my bodys and never had trouble with pactra comeing off dont know about other paints

I agree with will Pactra is the way to go.My car and truck stayed on the wall in Easly and the paint never came off not even a chip and hit the wall at full speed.Thats how my weekend went.But i will return.


Eddie McCray

I've had several racers tell me to use the super fine steel wool to scuff. MY bodies usually crack before they peel :freak:

its still ones choice on what kind of paint and how they do it i have painted hundreds of 10th scale bodies and 3 1/4 scale never scuffed and the paint will out last the bodies but thats with pactra have used other types of paints but not with the same results or durability including automotive laquers

[quote=disruptor 11;2314086]How did it hold up? Weight is not a problem.....actually it works good for me.[/quote
the fuel will eat it , elec. car bodys were ok . I did a snickers car, looked great held up fine, just real heavy

I've had several racers tell me to use the super fine steel wool to scuff. MY bodies usually crack before they peel :freak:
tim do they crack at a line where you cut a line like around the window or where you cut the tape for a stripe ?

Mine usually crack in the wheel well.

going over it with a sanding drum will stop alot of cracking after you cut it out

YES - a sanding drum
do you cut with a knife or sissors

YES - a sanding drum
do you cut with a knife or sissorstim probly uses the same curved lexan scissors i do

I use scissors. I've heard if you use a sanding drum after cutting then the imperfections will not only be smooth they will heat up enough to seem and hair line cut.

If you use a grey scuff pad ( 3M product, most auto parts stores carry them) to scuff the lexan before paint, it will hold up to just about any hit you could give it. I have bodies my son has raced for whole seasons and there is no flaking paint, and I only us Faskolor. The grey scuff pad will not effect color either, even on metalics or pearls.

If you are have cracking problems in certain areas, after you are done painting the body and it has dried over night, apply a layer of mesh drywall tape and a thin layer on shoe goo over that. Makes the body very durable!!!I even use that when the chassis rubs on the body so it won't wear the paint off and where the body sits on the body posts. Hope this helps

Great tip!
If you are have cracking problems in certain areas, after you are done painting the body and it has dried over night, apply a layer of mesh drywall tape and a thin layer on shoe goo over that. Makes the body very durable!!!I even use that when the chassis rubs on the body so it won't wear the paint off and where the body sits on the body posts. Hope this helps

hey tim.....had a older body and I went wally world and found the KRYLON "FUSION" for plastics paint cans....12 oz and about $5. I sprayed it in light coats until coated well. I let it dry several hours and then tried to scratch, bend, and beat it off. It held on no problems. I am gonna give it a shot but it seems to be ok....

It could be a different story on the cars though...

Tim Mc.I as well sand wheel cutouts, then i will take a heat gun and use the outside round tube and when hot i will move it all around the wheel wheels it has enough heat as if there are any imperfections it will melt as a very smooth lip.And i do this before i paint. and the shoo goo is the ticket, as well. Pactra paint for me. with body scuffed lightly with sos pad. it has soap in it already.Rinse out let dry,mask and paint.