This thread is in reference to an older 8hp Craftsman snowblower.
Model C944.52950
Serial 4003308
Tecumseh 4 cycle (horizontal crankshaft)
Engine no.- 143.696062

Replaced the connecting rod yesterday and just torquing the head.
Wondering if 200 inches/lb was the spec for the cylinder head bolts.

Thanks in Advance :thumbsup:

The 143. number equates to Tecumseh HM80-155171F. Page 91 of the following document will give all the torque values.
http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
3 to 11 HP 4 cycle L Head
Looks like 200 in/lbs good for cyl head bolts.
hope this helps,
thanks,

You hit the nail on head GlenJudy!
Thanks so much for your great advice and direction.
So helpful :woohoo:

The engine No. reference made my day

:wave:

After replacing the connecting rod and checking the timing marks between the cam and the crank shaft,the engine will not fire.
It seems there is no spark at the sparkplug.
I have rotation from the flywheel to the belt pulley,but i suppose that doesn't prove the key on the flywheel didn't break does it ?

Is there anyway to prove the key without removing the flywheel ?
I'm going to try jamming the flywheel,then force the pulley rotation by hand and see if there is any slipage.
:confused:

Originally Posted by sunburst2007 View Post

After replacing the connecting rod and assembly,a failure to start seems to be caused by a no spark condition

A sheared flywheel key will have nothing to do with a "no spark" situation. Disconnect the kill lead wire from the coil and test for spark again, If you now have spark check your kill switch for a short.

If you still don't have spark with the kill wire disconnected check the coil to flywheel air gap. Make sure it's close to 0.125", If it is you may have a bad coil.

I'm going to try jamming the flywheel,then force the pulley rotation by hand and see if there is any slipage.

That is not a good idea, You could end up breaking cooling fins off the flywheel. Just take it off and look at the key, Some Tecumseh's use off-set keys so you can't really tell if you just take the starter cup off.

Well i can see the key with the starter cup removed,but it's hard to tell if it's broken or not.
The engine was running fine before the connecting rod broke.
What could have caused a spark failure ?
:confused:

The engine was running fine before the connecting rod broke.
What could have caused a spark failure ?
:confused:

A electrical component can take a dump at any second, Just perform the test I posted and it should lead you to the problem.

Engine model and spec number does show that this engine has points type ignition. It's very likely that the flywheel key got sheared when the engine threw the rod. A sheared key will prevent spark on a point type ignition. Remove the flywheel and inspect the key, if you need to replace it, the part number shows to be 32589.

ok,the flywheel key was sheared.Replaced key and she started fine. :-)
Blew snow up to the street and ran fine for 10 mins then started to high rev and
i noticed fluid on the ground.Back in the garage now.
Took cover off carb to check governor linkage,seems fine.
There is oil on the side or near the crank blow vent so i think it's blowing
oil out the vent.
I filled the crank over the fill mark by 1/8 of an inch.

Is it possible the oil is splashing up on the governor gear inside the crank and
affecting the governor ?
Or something else i missed like misaligned the governor gear somehow ?

I'm going to drain some oil out and try again.

any ideas ?

thanks for your help by the way.

Engine model and spec number does show that this engine has points type ignition.

That's my bad 30Y, I looked at page one of the parts break-down and seen a S. S. coil, Will look closer in the future.....http://forums.vr-zone.com/f/gif/knock.gif

handyman, Do as you said and drain the oil down, Let us know what happens.

This thread is in reference to an older 8hp Craftsman snowblower.
Model C944.52950
Serial 4003308
Tecumseh 4 cycle (horizontal crankshaft)
Engine no.- 143.696062
L-Head - HM80

Finally got the driveway blown out :woohoo:

There are 2 small rods coming from the carb that link to the crankcase governor gear.They connect with a small clamp and sit on a rotating pin.
When i attached the clamp to the pin,it didn't drop down on the pin far enough and was sort of wobly,causing governor malfuntion.
This was the resaon for high revs and blowing oil out the vent.

Was a pleasure :wave: