Although I am not a total newb to the sport there are still some things that I haven't got figured out just yet so I'm looking to all you professionals to maybe lead me to the magic tweak that solves my problems!

A little background info before we get to the nitty gritty.. Oval clay track, 100ft or so straights with fairly tight turns.

Running a Losi XXX-CR latemodel and have a mean push from entry to middle that I cannot get rid of. (I know Losi's are notorious for pushes)

I've tried every spring combination I can think of along with different tires and a myriad of other things but the car continues to push. If I roll out of the throttle pretty early I can keep it gripping but I need more corner speed on the throttle to beat our normal front runners. (They are running B3's and B4's)

What do you folks normally try to do when you encounter a tight in car?

Thanks in advance!

Tight Car on Entry: High banked clay or flat?? :

Banked:
Add RF camber ::: Soften RF shock/Spring ::: Stiffen LR Shock Spring ::: Add Left Side Weight ::: Firmer RR Tire or Shock/Spring ::: Stiffen Both Rear Springs ::: Soften Both Front Springs .....

Lots of things you can do to get it turn in better.

loosen your diff that will help car turn in harder. Plus other things grndhg13 said.

Raymond

Try limiters in your Ft shocks too.

Never had a losi, but can you add a sway bar to the rear? they will help you to loose a little rear bite. Plus are you could run just a tad of drag brake this will help you start to pivot on entry. grndhg13 is on the money. If this stuff dont work buy a B-3 or B-4. I love my B-3.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

I've pretty much tried all the things suggested so far along the lines of stiffening the rear and softening the front. My next step was to actually add a sway-bar to the rear. I purchased one and will be putting it on the car tonight.

One question I do have is how loosening the diff will help the car going in? I keep my diffs smooth and try to not keep them to loose so I don't burn them up. That could be another possible option.

Some things I am going to try this weekend include adding the rear sway-bar, harder right rear tire compound, stiffer shock oil all the way around to reduce erratic chassis roll (I had it way to soft and it would get twitchy down the straights), and moved the right rear bearing carrier out a hole on the vla arm.

I picked up a B3 this past Saturday and plan on running it in a stock late model class while I continue to run my CR in the mod late model. If the CR changes don't work I will then use the B3 for mod and the CR for stock. I really hate to give up on my CR as I have more spare parts then I can shake a stick at and hate to get all new Associated parts but I will do what I have to in order to be competitive. :woohoo:

Try less or no rear spoiler.

Try running the thicker oil in the right side shocks...

I usually ran 50wt in the right and 30wt in the left, with the left side spring rates being about 1-2# softer (Associated Silvers) than the right. I also had the RF (Associated Golds) fairly tight to prevent the chassis roll, the RR (Associated Gold) really tight to free it up, and left side softer than the right.

I ran an associated Team Car (old school), but the same setup worked on about every chassis I helped others with.

Are you running foam, capped, or off-road tires? BIG difference between the three.

Another big help will be to know how the chassis is setting in the corner, and adjust camber on all four tires for maximum contact patch through the turn. I ended up with the front leaned REALLY hard to compensate for camber gain through the turn. The front end doesnt need all that contact in the straights, but you want as much as possible in the turns. To adjust for this, set the chassis on a flat surface, turn the wheels left the amount you use on the track, and apply slight pressure on the left side of the chassis (pushing to the outside).. look at the wheels and adjust camber so the contact patch is flat on the table. This will help your steering tremendously.

This setup worked REALLY well on banked clay.

Grndhg13 I forgot to mention that we run a flat clay oval that here recently has been hard packed and almost blue grooved. Tire of choice has been pink taper pins with soft/medium foams or pink k-bars with soft/medium foams in the rear and pink 3 ribs or taper pins in the front. Our track doesn't allow foams or capped tires so we are limited to these which is okay with me as it keeps tire costs down.

I tried the softer left side shock oil but it made the car get on the left rear so hard coming out of the corner it would actually get a push coming out or if you had to make an erratice move on the straight away it would upset the car to much.

I've spent I don't know how long adjusting the front camber and I think I have it pretty close to where it needs to be. I'm getting close to the setup but just need to find that extra bit to help with getting through the corner while on the throttle. I think by stiffening the front shock oil it will help keep the car from transferring so much weight to the back tires thus not loading the RR or LR so hard making it push. The guys who are winning everyweek are blasting in the corners so much harder then everyone else and then basically pivot in the apex and shoot out of the corners. I'm having to roll into the corner to stay low.

Thanks for the info though and I'll keep those things in mind for this weekend.

Forgot to add... I'm going to put rubber o-rings on my shock shafts this weekend to see how much shock travel i'm getting to maybe get closer on my camber angles though!!

On our flatt(er) tracks, the soft mini pins were the rear tire of choice until the tracks opened up tire rules to silicone caps (boring like driving asphalt).

If they're running in that much harder and pivoting on flat clay, it's most likely with some drag brake.... Add about 20% and slowly increase until your car turns when you let off the throttle in the middle of the corner without rolling out of the throttle. Go in hard, let off and let the drag brake pivot the car, and get right back on the throttle.

I had to do this with my truck. Too much drag and you'll spin out, but get it right and you can fly!

Practice with the guys that are fast, and pay close attention to where they get off the throttle to let the car pivot. Adjust your brakes to get the car to pivot at that point.

Without being there to see what it's actually doing, that's about the ideas I've got for you. Good luck with it!

zero degree rear toe-in

zero degree rear toe-in

Mike, I actually purchased a zero degree rear block but I had heard a lot of negative remarks concerning those and forward bite so I hadn't tried it yet. I'll add that to my list of things to try out.

I agree if you start from a dead stop or very slow speed you will have forward bite issues. But think or it this way, with toe-in the car won't turn at the end of the straight and that scrubs allot of speed. So you then need toe-in to get your car accelerated out of the turn. With zero toe-in, the car turns in and scrubs less speed so you don't need to accelerate as much coming out of the turn, which requires less toe-in. If your car isn't handeling it will always feel like it needs toe-in when running dirt oval. Since your running spiked tires instead of foams you may always need some toe-in, but try to run as little as possable, you will always be faster and turn in harder, carrying more speed.

Losi XXX? I bet it has lots of caster. I don't know what optional parts are out there for the Losi's to decrease the caster, but you might have too much if it's the stock geometry.

The rear toe block is probably a 3 degree toe in block if I had to guess. It's got some pretty serious toe in. Putting the zero degree in tonight although I have a guy I work with interested in possibly buying the car so this may all be for nothing.

Try turning the steering blocks upside down . I ran a xxxcr in edm from and when i did that it helped a lot

decrease RF caster, raise RF inner and out camber link and position the inner mount as far in as it will go, lengthen it basically