As I slowly build my track, I cannot help but want to also begin stocking up on cars. Problem is, I do not even know where to begin. As I read the forums, it seems that there is a large variety out there. It also seems that they have various operating voltages. I certainly do not want to fry any cars by mistake, so can you guys please provide me with a list of the common car types and operating specs? Any other info on cars is also welcome. Thanks.

voltage? not a question if you use the standard plug in powerpack, one per lane. Everyones equal then.
Cars are basically pancake engine type and inline. Pancake are the afx/autoworld/thunderjet type. Inline are the tycos, lifelike and most others.
Inline cars are much faster and hold the track much better. To me pancake are more fun, slower cars, fishtailing thru the corners is the way to go.

Pancake cars are more fun.......

voltage? not a question if you use the standard plug in powerpack, one per lane. Everyones equal then.
Cars are basically pancake engine type and inline. Pancake are the afx/autoworld/thunderjet type. Inline are the tycos, lifelike and most others.
Inline cars are much faster and hold the track much better. To me pancake are more fun, slower cars, fishtailing thru the corners is the way to go.


I plan on installing a variable supply with multiple taps and dumping the wall warts. Everyone can still be equal, but do the car motors have voltage specs as not to do harm?

Here's a shot at it:

T-Jets - 18-20 volts
Magnatraction - 18 volts (I really like these at 15-16)
Super G+ - 18
Life-Like - 18
G-Jet - 12

This is obviously a broad swipe, but most cars will run quite well at 18 volts with a good power supply. That being said, you will do no harm to the cars if you are trying to keep little Johnny on the track and you run them at 10-12 volts.

The worst thing you can ever do to your cars is set them on the track, pick up the rear end and crank them full throttle, that will burn up a motor quicker than anything. Warm up a car by letting it run a few parade laps then crank it up with tires in contact with the track!

I wouldn't recommend going too far over the recommended specs, but dialing it down will not hurt them in the least.

Hope that helps,

Marty

Let me add a couple more to Marty's list:

Tyco/Mattel - 16 volts
MicroScalextric - 12 volts
Marchon - ??? (but I'll guess between 12-16)

You may also find that you want to run the cars at less than the recommended voltage. The old Aurora power packs went as high as 20 (even 22) volts and I have run all cars at that voltage without burning out a motor. Yet.
You may also find that when using a good, filtered, full rectified power supply, the amount of voltage required is less than that supplied by a wall wart.
I too need a good power supply because I have got to turn down the voltage. I think you will find that you will not burn out a motor because if you turn the voltage up too high, the cars are simply unenjoyable. There are a number of chassis which are just too "hot" at my current 20-22 volts and uncontrollable. I am looking forward to running at a lower voltage.
I think you'll end up setting the voltage lower than the maximum tolerance of the chassis.

Joe

Thanks, that's exactly the information I was seeking.

The worst thing you can ever do to your cars is set them on the track, pick up the rear end and crank them full throttle, that will burn up a motor quicker than anything. Warm up a car by letting it run a few parade laps then crank it up with tires in contact with the track!
MartyNo offense Marty but I'm a little confused by your information; how will free revving an electric motor burn it out? Seriously. And are you saying to hold the car and rev it while the tires are contacting the track? That of all things will burn up the motor. Perhaps you are speaking of the proper break-in procedure for cars with new brushes that you would build yourself?- that is where you need to break in the brushes at a low RPM so they "seat" on the comm. But as far as a new production car out of a package there is nothing like that required that I've ever heard of.

You completely misread my post..... I am not suggesting you hold the car down and rev it, that would surely kill a car. I just meant run a few easy laps to warm it up, then run it hard like you would normally would as opposed to just picking up the rear end and blazing away.

But as far as a new production car out of a package there is nothing like that required that I've ever heard of.

What is the "requirement" for breaking in a car?

There really is no requirement, they should all run good right out of the box... But, this hobby being imperfect like many other things, sometimes the cars need a bit of help to get going, be it by tweaking the pick up shoes, shimming the crown gear, whatever.

A lot of times, just hooking up a car to a power supply at 3-4.5 volts and giving it a little oil and running it for an hour or two will make a big difference in how things perform.

AcesFull -- You've heard the expression, "Opinions are like ___holes, everyone's got one" right? It kind of applies to voltage for your slot cars.

Some have said they like their Tycos, etc at 16-18 volts. I like to run them on my track at 14.

Some have mentioned running the older pancake style cars at 18-20 volts. To me, on my track, 16 to 18 volts is plenty.

This is where a nice variable power supply is a great thing to have. You can experiment and find your own 'zone' which works for you and your track (and your young'uns and even guests).

My $.03 worth, adjusted for inflation.:wave:

Agreed doba'!

I like the M/T's at 15 volts, and the variable supply is nice for my 4 year old to get that SG+ around the track at 9 volts. :)

The variable power supply is about the best investment you will make for your track.

I have a variable power supply on my track and its great.I feel like I have to crank it down for as many adults as little kids.We even crank it down when we use US 1 trucking on it.Crank it up when you race those rocket ships that you can only hear and not see.It's all good. Tom