Some of you may be interested in setting up a TYCO X2 narrow chassis to run with G-Jets, P-Jets, T-Storms and weighted AFX SG+ cars. Here's what you'll need.

1 Slottech #4755 P-Jet weight kit
1 BSRT #878 G-Jet Front axle assembly.

First, you'll have to remove about .020 to .030 of brass material from the length of each rear weight using your favorite bench grinder, file or dremel tool. Once that's done, the weights will pop right into the tyco traction magnet pockets.

Second, add one front wheel weight to each BSRT wheel hub before installing the axle into the chassis.

The BSRT G-Jet sponge silicone tires at .450 diameter work real well with this setup.

The rear weights will also work with the wide pan chassis, but not the front wheel assembly. Since the wide pans require large diameter front tires, I've been experimenting with different front end configurations using the Slottech front wheel weights and Slottech P-Jet front wheel assemblies and .385 diameter front tires. Anyone have other ideas for weighted front ends?

Cool! How does this setup compare performance-wise with the other weighted cars?

How does the saying go? This thread needs pictures!

Yes buy lead sheet measure the plate size of the weight you will need. Cut a strip to the width and fold as many times as the thickness you need. Leas weighs 1.5 brass! and is easier to cut, use your x-acto. I have made leads in the place of Tomy turbo traction magnets and added plates in the front as well. Yes pictures... I must

Here are some test laps with lead
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=2270072&highlight=lead#post2270072

If you want to get adventurous you can melt and pour lead...

Is lead really heavy enough though?

Certainly not very play-safe!!

Lead is heavier than brass
Brass=8xwater Lead=12xwater
Lead as a weight is common and allowed e.g. for fishing. When at room temperature and not grinded to dust I believe there is no health threat, judging from the fact that it is available in such forms. Lead restrictions apply to compounds where lead is component in disolved form or fine powder and could therefore be inhaled or consumed, eg paints, piping, machine or constuction areas where it could produced as dust etc.
Cutting with an x-acto leaves no fine dust. If anyone knows more please tell

Keep it outta your mouth and you'll be fine. Keeping lead away from babies and toddlers is advisable as EVERYTHING they get their hands on winds up in their mouth. The rest is doomsday hysteria as far as I'm concerned. I spent a considerable number of hours in my youth "smelting" lead for lead soldiers with friends in unventilated bedrooms. We turned out ok, near as I can tell.

It just occurred to me that lead paranoia is probably the reason there are Tungsten weights for Pinewood Derby cars. I just thought they were going “high tech”. LOL

A nice idea for those who don't want to spend/ can't afford $40-$50 for a PJet, Thunderstorm chassis. Hopefully the 'Tyco-Jet' will be allowed to race.

JW's speed parts has a weighted brass indy front axle for Tyco chassis, and will gladly make wieghts for the traction-magnet pockets for those who want them.

http://users.cescowildblue.com/jwsteed/JW.HTM

DLW,
Would you happen to know the weight of the JW brass wheels?

Sorry, I don't but JW would be able to.....I don't have any.

Here's a link to see the brass weights:

http://users.cescowildblue.com/jwsteed/newpage2/MM01.jpg

MM01 is the item number.

DLW,
Thanks for the information. I just ordered the weights and brass front wheel set from JW. I will post performance results after receiving the new parts.

Here's a link to see the brass weights:

http://users.cescowildblue.com/jwsteed/newpage2/MM01.jpg

MM01 is the item number.

http://users.cescowildblue.com/jwsteed/newpage2/MM01.jpg

These are Tyco, right?

Where are they listed on the site?

Yep, they are Tyco. I didn't see them on the site, but did ask him about them. He will gladly fill any orders for them, so you can order with confidence.

would he do weights for other chassis do you think?

Such as the Tomy Turbo or Tyco HP7?

You could ask..........He might try it.

hi

i ordered a brass front end and a brass weight replacement for the Tomy Turbo traction magnet (from JW), and made a Turbo-Jet.

I was disappointed. I tried 18 and 12 volts, slip on silicones (0.458) and sponge silicones (0.446). The car was very hard to drive (couldnt take a turn at much more than a crawl). Maybe it needs a different front weight setup (more or less? i dont know). i also tried with a stock front end, but never got to a sweet spot that felt comfortable to drive.

i race G-jets and really like the way they handle. i have the wizzard version and its fun to drive to. i couldnt get the Turbo-Jet to feel as nice to drive. I want to try the P-Jet also (slot tech).

i also ordered parts from JW to make a Tyco-Jet, but havent tried that yet. that will have to wait till the fray is over, i leave tomorrow morning.

One thing to consider about the Tomy Turbo, the motor mags don't seem as strong. That also goes for Tyco HP-7's. Tyco magnets are pretty strong, but not as strong as the traction magnets, and the motor magnets are recessed, so you'd have to use lower profile tires to get some downforce.

The G-Jets, T-Storms and other incarnations of inline tjet-like cars do have magnetic downforce, similiar to the HP7.

the 0.446 sponge silicone tires a tried were actually too low, and there was a bit of chassis rubbing going on. i may try going up to 448 or 450

i may also try to put a 9 ohm G-jet arm in the tomy can motor, just to see if that makes any different

Pictures of the weighted X2 as requested by Montoya1.

Thanks

the 0.446 sponge silicone tires a tried were actually too low, and there was a bit of chassis rubbing going on. i may try going up to 448 or 450

i may also try to put a 9 ohm G-jet arm in the tomy can motor, just to see if that makes any different

That may be the reason - the scraping of the car - that unsettles it. I say this because I have run Tomy Turbos without the magnets and though you certainly go much slower than with the magnets to control the car, they are still fast and controllable at those speeds. To give you a comparative measure they are much faster than tuff-ones with silicones or JL or AW tjets (non-modified other than silicones). They are still faster than AW ultra-g. Try running them without magnets BEFORE other modifications, if that is bad and not up to speed and control similar to what I suggest maybe it is your controllers, low resistors maybe?

See my link with timing rounds for different configurations above.

Finally maybe you just like magnet cars and cant face it... :p

The 0.458 is the stock tire size. I was not happy with the car even with tires that are not too low.

My controller is fine, that wasnt the problem. As far as only liking magnet cars, I enjoy G-jets (a better designed) no traction magnet in-line racer, and Fray T-jets. I thought the Tomy turbo with the brass weights was less fun to drive than Fray T-jets, G-Jets, Mangnatractions, JLTO, JL-XT, AW TO, AW XTs, and Tyco Curve huggers.

I really wanted to like it. But it wasnt any fun for me to drive.

I tested the G Jets at home and found them to be = to a 440X2 Super Stock from the early 90's Now a 440X2 totally stock is about equal to a G Jet on 12 volts and a small twisty track. If you have a long straight away the G Jet will leave the X2. Maybe a change of rear tires and gear ratio could tighten things up.I also tested an XT with Polymers against a G Jet at 12 volts and they are about equal. The XT would need a little more motor to be competitive. Now some of you might think the traction magnets and Polymers for the XT is unfair. However if you pput all 3 cars on a piece of track and turn it upside down they all fall off at about the same time when you tap the track. The G Jet has just as much down force with just its motor magnets as the XT with Polymers and a Stock X2 With some tuning you can propably make an X2 and XT that can run with a G Jet at 12VDC

Roger Corrie

Lead is heavier than brass
Brass=8xwater Lead=12xwater
Lead as a weight is common and allowed e.g. for fishing. When at room temperature and not grinded to dust I believe there is no health threat, judging from the fact that it is available in such forms. Lead restrictions apply to compounds where lead is component in disolved form or fine powder and could therefore be inhaled or consumed, eg paints, piping, machine or constuction areas where it could produced as dust etc.
Cutting with an x-acto leaves no fine dust. If anyone knows more please tell

Be carefull with it if you melt it down. If there is moisture in the mold you use or you melt it on the ground it could pop ( like explode) and become a flying hazzard. If you ever soldered something and dropped some on yourself you know how bad this could become. best to cut it without making dust. cut thru it with a chiesel and hammer, bang it into the shape you need it forms pretty well.

Just curious are most guys testing with or without bodies? I have yet to see anyone specifically compare a G-Jet with a hardbody to a genuine hardbody car, or vice-versa i.e. an X-Traction outfitted in lexan compared to a G-Jet. I've only driven a few G-Jets but always walked away feeling that some of my best XT's would be similar possibly even competitive in a lexan body.

I have been doing all my testing with .007 lexan bodies (G-Jet, P-Jet, Thunder Jet and new SG+ with added BSRT body tubes. The little testing I have done with hardbodies have been limited to the new SG+ (with body clip) and a narrow Tyco X2 with BSRT T2 ceramic motor magnets. What I've found using the hard bodies is less chassis weight (or none) is required on the nose of the car. Has anyone else been testing and what are the results? :woohoo:

All my testing have been without a body

Roger Corrie

I got my nephew machining some weights for an X2 -- gave him some traction mags to copy from.

All my testing have been without a body

Roger Corrie


Thanks Roger, that's what I was hoping to hear.

Did you try the XT with stock motor mags? I'd think at 12V the polymers might be too much work for the arm. :confused: