For those running non-mag cars, about how far after a corner might they slide and still be able to straighten out? I'm making some new borders, and not sure how far to extend them after the corner. I want to keep them as short as possible, but don't want to go too short.

Thanks!

The borders on my small track are 3/4 of an inch wide...
Which for the most part are ok.
The only issue I have is that on a few turns I added guardrail on the outside of the border.
Some of the longer cars can actually drag the back corner of the car on the guardrail. :lol:
On the next track I may widen the borders to a full one inch wide....
Have fun..

Scott

Jeff --

In a couple of Robert Schleicher's books (Slot Car Bible, and Racing and Collecting Slot Cars), he recommends that borders extend 2 feet beyond the end of the turn -- for 1/32 scale. He makes no recommendations for HO scale.

However, since HO -- as we know it -- is half the size of 1/32 scale, you can halve his figure, to 1 foot or 30cm. He also points out that if you plan to run the track in both directions, you need to start the border the same distance before the turn.

Hope this helps.

-- Bill

I'm currently experimenting with how little I can get away with on my new layout, while still getting the most out of them where it's needed... Don't have enough room for a foot's worth on my dinky little track. I'm only gonna install as much as needed for each turn situation. Kinda free form on a case by case basis. I found a good underlayment to bring the cork borders up to track height too. At the craft store I found sheets of foam rubber that are 2mm thick. It comes in all different colors (I chose brown). I also found large sheets of cork at my local Hobbytown. It's about 18in x 30in and is 5mm thick. Tomy track is 7mm thick... Cork = 5mm + foam = 2mm, track = 7mm... BINGO!! With the big sheets, most of my turns can be cut in one piece. The foam and the cork can both be cut with good sharp scissors and can be sanded too. Gonna paint mine with Kilz Primer and blue stripes. I'm liking this stuff (so far). nd

Bill,

Like Dave, I'm hoping 12" of exit border is not required. I was hoping 3" would be enough, since I had a bunch of pre-cut mdf pieces 3" x .75" that I was hoping to use.

However, I went back to the bandsaw, and made 6" long pieces - enough pieces for both entry and exit, in case we run reverse.

If 6" exit borders aren't enough, then I guess it will just be a factor of the course, and racers will have to race accordingly.

If 6" exit borders aren't enough, then I guess it will just be a factor of the course, and racers will have to race accordingly.

That's my philosophy too, for a home fun track. Kind of like Fenway Park with its odd angles and walls, the players have to adapt to the field of play. I have some corners where the scenery meets the track so a fishtailing car will be running in the grass or on gravel (sand mixed in a matte glue medium). I also have a couple places where there is a wall within a few inches of the turn exit, parallel to the track. One of these walls is stone so trying to lean on that wall like you lean on a guard rail will not work very well.

Yeah, theory is just that -- theory. Eventually you need to come face to face with reality.

Keep us updated on how the shorter borders work out. I've recently bought a bunch of track, and so will need to answer this question myself.

-- Bill