I've done a search already and didn't find much, so my question is: has anyone had issues with track timer 2000? I purchased the whole system from Greg Braun and am having multiple issues. Forgive me, I'm not a computer guy, just mechanical and electrical. I purchased with the joystick adapter only to find out I don't have one on the pc i'm using, so I gought the adapter for usb. Problem 1: I cannot configure to a 2 axis-4 button gamepad - I get an error saying "Missing gameport or gameport drivers - your gameport or gameport drivers are not properly configured - please consult the device manager" Problem 2: Even configured as a 4 axis-4 cutton joystick (default), I only get lanes 1,2 and 3 to register, within the joystick calibration menu and with the Lap Timer 2000 software. Problem 3: When running the software in any mode, with only 3 lanes operable, it misses many counts as well as just flat out stops counting altogether after 100 or so laps, all lanes combined. Any experience out there with these that might be of assistance is greatly appreciated. Heck and advise with this system is appreciated.

Prob. 1: Does the USB adapter have a mode switch? What brand/model is the adapter?

No sense going to the next steps 'til you're sure this is right.

Dont feel bad I have a complete brand new trackmate that I cannot get to work right.The place I race at on friday night has it and it works PERFECT!

Prob. 1: Does the USB adapter have a mode switch? What brand/model is the adapter?

No sense going to the next steps 'til you're sure this is right.

Yes, and i set it to mode 3 - "use mode 3 if the controllers game devices selection is "2-4 axis, 4 buttons" in the game software. By selecting this mode, you have upgraded your controller to a usb game controller" - per the instructions given in the manual for the usb gameport adapter Manhattan model# 168199. Is this correct?

Yes, that's the correct setting (same brand riderz has).

Also, what version windows?

Just got one more question before I say I think the IR setup is the culprit...and this is for RiderZ: Did fixing the lights also fix the problem of the 'puter coughing up the USB adapter?

Yes, that's the correct setting (same brand riderz has).

Also, what version windows?

Just got one more question before I say I think the IR setup is the culprit...and this is for RiderZ: Did fixing the lights also fix the problem of the 'puter coughing up the USB adapter?

Windows XP is on this computer. It could be the IR setup for the issue with the one lane not working, but it would have to be something else to just stop counting laps. Once it stops counting, I go to the devise manager and it states it ok, yet when I check the inouts in the calibration menu, none register any longer. Highly unlikely to be hardware related for that one, but I've been wrong before. Might there be a driver I could load for XP for joysticks?

This is the same exact problem riderz was having, let's see if fixing the IR setup cured it.

PC hardware, particularly USB adapters, can be pretty strange with this stuff. It's expecting to "see" certain things, ie a real joystick in this case. If something isn't right, it will act up. I'm thinking that what's happening is incorrect IR setup is sorta acting like someone pushing all the gamepad buttons a zillion times a second.

This is the same exact problem riderz was having, let's see if fixing the IR setup cured it.

PC hardware, particularly USB adapters, can be pretty strange with this stuff. It's expecting to "see" certain things, ie a real joystick in this case. If something isn't right, it will act up. I'm thinking that what's happening is incorrect IR setup is sorta acting like someone pushing all the gamepad buttons a zillion times a second.

I do not believe it's the IR setup itself but has to do with the adapter in some way, like you mentioned, what it thinks it's suppose to see. I can run a bunch of laps, then it stops counting out of the blue. I go unplug the usb cable for a second, then back in and wala, it works again. It will do this consistantly. The adapter or a driver issue because I cannot even configure as a 2 axis 4 button. Also when I run the calibration, the crosshair is extremely unstable with zero input. maybe I should just get the printer port adapter.

lol like I said We will have to see...RiderZ is holding all the cards at this point, he has the same adapter and was having the same problem with his PC puking it up. The fact that he hasn't brought it up since installing the RS setup tells me it most likely cured it, but maybe not.

Windows is looking for a gamepad with at least one joystick (the resistors Greg installs) and four "open" buttons (the sensors). If the sensors are low, it will appear as either 4 closed buttons or four..."unknown things", either way not what the PC is expecting to find on the port, can't calibrate buttons it can't see. This is why I think the fault lies in the IR setup and not the PC.

It just seems unnatural- trying to marry a slot car track up to a PC. Toys of yesteryear meets supertechnology of today. Paging Bill Gates to aisle 5, we have a compatibility issue! Lol.

For what it's worth:

During the year plus I have been at HT, I don't recall anyone having trouble getting Lap Timer to work when they used a parallel printer port, save for easy troubleshooting issues, such as software settings, wrong sensors/reeds, or mis-wiring.

This usb adaptor thing seems to be a lot of trouble.

I have Lap Timer 2000, with the Radio Shack USB joystick adapter. I have it set to "Joystick A" (the choices are 1-Gamepad, 2-Joystick-A, 3-Joystick B, and 4-Wheel. It works most of the time, but it always misses laps, particulary with fast cars. I just checked my IR lamps with a video camera that has "nightshot" capability, and it shows 4 lamps hitting the holes with the photo sensors. It seems to cast about a 1 inch circle on the track from where I have it. Its pretty ugly wiring set up, but it seems to be wired in correctly since it works for the most part. Seems to miss less on tjets, but it still misses sometimes. I have it wired to a tablet PC, and I have heard that laptops are not the best laptimer choice for some reason (bus speed not as fast as a desktop PC or something like that). I have done some work since these photos were taken, but have a look.
"deleted 6/2011 - url was dead"

The fact that the lights are "lit" is not enough, the critical thing is the intensity.

RiderZ where ya at?

He answered my PM...said it seemed to take care of the USB problem.

Again this was the exact same setup as yours - the Manhattan Adapter, WinXP, and the IR sensors Greg sells.

Nice track set up you have there Pat...
What size is the table?

Scott

He answered my PM...said it seemed to take care of the USB problem.

Again this was the exact same setup as yours - the Manhattan Adapter, WinXP, and the IR sensors Greg sells.

What was it that RiderZ did with the IR setup? Is it getting the matched set you mentioned to me?

Yes. Still sounds like he may need to tweak it a little.

Hey Gene-It seems to have stopped the USB problem.Although i have had a few missed lap counts still.Not as many.

This could be as simple as a setting in the program, or recalibrating the setup. Not sure how guys are doing it, but when calibrating the "buttons" , I'd use an actual car (preferably a faster one) crossing the sensors.

Nice track set up you have there Pat...
What size is the table?

Scott
Thanks
Its approx 10'x5'. I have been trying to work on smoothing the joints (again...) with vinyl spackling compound, but its going to take a while, and your cant turn laps when your in the middle of construction. Its a bit twisty for magnet cars, at least the ones I have, G3's with couple w/Polymer magnets, a couple with ceramic, never seem to have 4 of the same setup. But I can get a few laps in before launching one. I have some tjets, JL's, and AW Magnets.

Yes. Still sounds like he may need to tweak it a little.



This could be as simple as a setting in the program, or recalibrating the setup. Not sure how guys are doing it, but when calibrating the "buttons" , I'd use an actual car (preferably a faster one) crossing the sensors.

Unfortunately, I cannot even configure it to a 2 axis 4 button gamepad, as G. Braun's manual states to do. I get a driver error. I can only configure as a 2 axis 4 button joystick. The difference between a gamepad and joystick...I have no idea.

Unfortunately, I cannot even configure it to a 2 axis 4 button gamepad.............I can only configure as a 2 axis 4 button joystick.

Same thing to Windows, you're ok there.

Same thing to Windows, you're ok there.

Thanks, that's good to know.
Question: Do you think I could write a lap timing software with Microsoft's Visual Basic? I have the programming guide, and a whie back I built a robot using a similar platform, but I do not know if this program has the capability. I'de rather develope my own system, taylored to my liking.

Absolutely, I did a single-lane counter with heat time (power off) control in VB2005 Express that worked with keyboard input, was gonna take it further but there's just so much good stuff out there (including LT2000) already that I couldn't justify the time. IO is a bit tricky to implement in VB but these days there are lots of free or cheap controls available.

The fact that the lights are "lit" is not enough, the critical thing is the intensity.
I am using the
RS 276-143 High-Output 5mm Infrared LED.
RS 470 OHM 1/2 W
13 V 650 mA wall wart.
Wired in parallel as shown on
http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/LapCounter.html

Absolutely, I did a single-lane counter with heat time (power off) control in VB2005 Express that worked with keyboard input, was gonna take it further but there's just so much good stuff out there (including LT2000) already that I couldn't justify the time. IO is a bit tricky to implement in VB but these days there are lots of free or cheap controls available.

Time, it's always about time isn't it. Even being married, having 4 kids and possibly a fifth on the way and working 60+ hrs a week I think I'll have some extra time. I do not sleep much. Luckily for me, I am surrounded with mechanical, electrical and software engineers daily, that are always willing to assist me with my "little projects". I'm going to give it a go and see what happens. I've got nothing to lose...but time.

Hey guys-i just now found this thread.I ended up changing out the IR emitters & sensors from RadioShack with there "matched" set.It definately works a whole lot better but i still get missed lap counts with the "fast" cars such as my Wizzards.I have'nt had much time here lately to see if i can run the system for long periods of time to see if it dumps the USB connection.Tonight i'll go down and run a long session to see if it act's up.On my USB adaptor i use it in Mode1.That is a 2 axis 4 button joystick setting. :)

No go.After about an hour & a half of running it missed a ton of lap counts.It only lost USB connection once.I have had it with this "POS" system and will remove it from my layout tomarrow!!! I will try to contact Mr. Braun and get my money back.Good luck with your system AcesFull.

I am having same issues. Havent got the matched IR emitters & sensors, it would be nice to just get the emitters that match the sensors that are currently glued, screwed and spackled under my timing track, any idea what the ones are that come from Greg Braun? They look much smaller than the matched set you got.

Anyone...
Also do I need 4 resistors at 470 OHM 1/2 watt?
How does the 13 V 650mA power (my test meter shows 16.5 V) figure into the calculation?
It sounds like I need a brighter light from the LED's than I am getting, so do I drop in lower resistors, or put in a single one?

Could I put in a 22 V Tomy Wall Wart with the existing resistors to get them brighter, or will they fry with that much, again, what about the amps that the wall wart puts out, where does that go in the calculation?

Phone wire is tough to solder, and I dont have this dialed in yet, what do people use for prototyping, or allowing for quick replacement of burned out parts? I used some mini wire nuts/caps, (pic in my gallery) and also used some IC sockets with all the pins soldered across on the bottom of the circuit board so I can plug stuff into the sockets for connectivity, but now I am seeing corrosion in the top where I have plugged in the resistors and LED'.s The meter shows that I get 1.25v after the current goes through the resistor.

No go.After about an hour & a half of running it missed a ton of lap counts.It only lost USB connection once.I have had it with this "POS" system and will remove it from my layout tomarrow!!! I will try to contact Mr. Braun and get my money back.Good luck with your system AcesFull.
If you can, you might try the full Desktop PC to see if the laptop is the culprit. I am using a tablet PC and I am starting to get suspicious that it just can't keep up with the signal.

With all the troubleshooting you guys are having to do with these IR set-ups, why not try reed switches?

Just curious.

If you can, you might try the full Desktop PC to see if the laptop is the culprit. I am using a tablet PC and I am starting to get suspicious that it just can't keep up with the signal.

I use a desktop and have had no luck. I think it's the gameport/usb thing so I think I'm going to get the printer port or serial port adapter and give it one last shot.

My tablet PC doesnt have serial or parallel, which would be nice, 'cause then you can add the power relay to start and stop the power with a race. I hate to buy more stuff when I am not sure of the ROI.

I have an old Dell M200 that has W98, but it won't run USB w/o changing IRQ settings used by network card. And it takes about 6 minutes to boot up.

These things look rather interesting. (http://cgi.ebay.com/Hi-Speed-Parallel-Port-PCMCIA-Cardbu-Card-for-Laptop-PC_W0QQitemZ110216489710QQihZ001QQcategoryZ116331Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Claim to offer native LPT port functionality. With a parallel interface, you get the added bonus of being able to add a power control relay to allow the software to control track power.

RiderZ if you're gonna bust it up, try busting the legs of the bridge so the Emitters are about 2.75" above the sensors, I've always felt that bridge was too high to begin with myself. And again to be sure, are you calibrating it with the fastest cars?

With all the troubleshooting you guys are having to do with these IR set-ups, why not try reed switches?

Just curious.

Actually, I'm lloking into some industrial automation sensors that I have access to. Both fiber optic and magnetic with both analog and digital outputs. I'll let you know how it goes.

Aces if you are using a desktop that has no LPT port, you should be able to throw an add-on LPT card into it. By the way you describe work, sounds like maybe someone could cough up an old pull, LPT cards are real common in business PC's.

I have an old Dell M200 that has W98, but it won't run USB w/o changing IRQ settings used by network card. And it takes about 6 minutes to boot up.

Perfect slot car computer! :thumbsup:

Perfect slot car computer! :thumbsup:

I agree, take out the net card (likely the biggest contributor to the long boot time), throw in a fresh minimal install of Win98 and LT2000 only, hack up an old printer cable and you're on your way.

Actually, I'm lloking into some industrial automation sensors that I have access to.

:confused: But...but.....you just need an parallel port, and $8 worth of reed switches, and you are off this thread, and back to your track build thread, which is really where you want to be. :thumbsup:

And SwamperGene - what's up? I mean, when I had a brief flirt with IR issues, you steered me towards the light...er...magnets. It was like:

Scaf: "I am having trouble with my RS IR's..."
Gene: "The solution is Reed switches"
Scaf: "Counting laps now - thanks Gene!"

I say save a 386 from a landfill, and you will be counting laps in no time. Trying to get your tablet PC or desktop-replacement-laptop working to count tics on a slot car track, and the deck is (apparently) stacked against you.

Aces if you are using a desktop that has no LPT port, you should be able to throw an add-on LPT card into it. By the way you describe work, sounds like maybe someone could cough up an old pull, LPT cards are real common in business PC's.

I've got an LPT port. I just need to get an adapter.

[QUOTE=Scafremon]:confused: But...but.....you just need an parallel port, and $8 worth of reed switches, and you are off this thread, and back to your track build thread, which is really where you want to be. :thumbsup:

True, I'de rather be building. I've got the port, just need the switches. Do you use them as dry contacts or are they powered?

I'm just up in arms with this whole deal.The LPT adaptor looks interesting but i really hate to spend $22 and it still dont work.I already have probably $150 in this set-up and it still dont work properly.I'm really "POed" at Mr. Braun as he has failed to contact me about this issue.Can you say "SCUMBAG"!!! I'm hoping TOMY comes out with there new "Control Center" soon.Scaf do you honestly think that the reed switches will cure our problems? Gene i measured the emitter height and there 2.5" from the track surface.The sensors are installed protruding a little bit above the track surface. :confused:

Scaf-where do you get the correct reed switches from???

I'll post what I know, but I will defer to Gene for his expertiese.

http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=3_1

I used the "N" scale version, but I think Gene uses the HO scale version. I found the N scale at a local RR hobby shop, and that is why I used them.

http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/1280/2401025260099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2401025260099980462NWvuud)

Hot glued them to the underside of the track.

http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/2704/2744019860099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2744019860099980462rvIqJn)


Wired them to a parallel printer cable, plugged it in, and I was counting laps. I had to mess with some software settings, but after that, it was on to the next task.

http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/1913/2317417570099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2317417570099980462yGPIGU)

And SwamperGene - what's up? I mean, when I had a brief flirt with IR issues, you steered me towards the light...er...magnets.

Scaf RiderZ already had the setup from Greg, and I believe it was part of a Christmas present, so I figured it would be nice for him to get it working.

Personally, I'm still using my reed setup on my track. But, I've also had to make a reliable IR setup for the MaxxTrak I had as the reed switches are not reliable with a Maxx and stock t-Jets (the heavy rail sucks up the already weak flux of a bone stock T-Jet mag). So, I built a very reliable IR setup with the RS match pair IR set and it's in use over a year now, in a commercial environment, without a hitch. For the record, I have encountered one car, a stock-mag T-Jet jacked up with AFX rear wheels/tires, that gives me fits with my reeds. I can put his rear setup on my similar stock car and it's fine, so it could very well be something goofy with that particular car.

I really think were seeing a trend here that involves the adapters. What has to be remembered is that while USB is a standardized interface the way the port is being "virtualized" is not, technically there is a firmware layer being stuck in between that we know nothing about (trigger levels, what it expects to see hooked to it, etc). Given that RiderZ has said it got "better", though still not right, I'm inclined to say that the emitters are still not quite hot enough.

As to the reeds, the ones Scaf shows will work, as will the HO version (Scaf you posted a closeup a long time ago, the reeds themselves do look to be the same for the N or HO sets). These reeds, even glued below the track, will count a bone-stock t-Jet.

Scaf laid it all out right there, draw yourself a line and center everything on it. Reeds between the inboard rails/slots. I can't see if he did it but I cut the leads down on the reeds to about 1/4-1/2 inch as they are magnetic, a strong car can set the reed off ahead of the actual switch (in the tube)....my start/finish line is centered over the reeds and I wanted to be able to nose right up to it without issues.

The "SwamperGene" trick is what's in between the reeds. The problem with such an easily triggered reed is that modern mag cars will trip the adjacent lane. In between the reeds and again centered on the line, I glue a 10-penny nail that's been beheaded. This acts as a flux collector and cures the adjacent lane triggers. I've literally put 100's of thousands of laps across these things without issue, and the setup works everytime. The only trouble you'll have with this setup is a lexan car on it's roof will still trigger them, so try to keep the starting line out of a wreck-prone area. Also, one thing I didn't do the first time that I do now is scrape a little channel in the track for the reeds, just to get a few thousandths closer to the surface.

Lastly, when I put the reeds in, I do so with the "paddles" of the switches parallel to the track surface, not perpendicular as many suggest you do with reeds....that way gave me issues with stock T-Jets.

Well, I was able to play with it a bit tonight and verify at least one problem. The detector on lane 4 is not working. I verified that the emitter works by placing it over other lanes. I also believe the power is way plenty with these as I can have them off-center of the detector in any direction over 3/4" and they will still operate. Tomorrow, Iwill take a closer look into the detector. Also Swamper, I belive you are correct on the adapter issue. All I do is unplug the usb and plug it back in and it works again for some more laps, although it misses ALOT of counts.

Gene,

You are the guru of do-it-yourself lap counting setups. :thumbsup:

Personally, I think the IR systems have a bigger 'geek' factor to them then the reeds, and that is why I wanted to go with an IR system when I was building my track, and might be why others do to. Invisible light above the track - sensors below - cars breaking the plane, triggering laps on a computer - how cool is that!

Going to reed switches was kind of let down at first, but then, they worked - and worked good - and all the time - how cool is that! Now, I think the reeds have even more of a geek factor then the IR's, since the whole system is hidden.

I think the advice and effort you have given to Riderz and others to troubleshoot their systems is awesome. And with parallel ports going the way of the floppy disk, I think it's imperitive that we get this usb thing worked out, so that computerized lap counting becomes a no-brainer, instead of such a frustration.

For me, getting the lap counter situation behind me was a huge relief, and I think it will be so for RiderZ and Aces. It was so gratifying to go 'that works - what's next?" when building a track.

We appreciate your help Gene!

I greatly appreciate the help here from all who post.Next question-if i buy the reeds can i just cut off the IR sensors and solder in the reed switches to the same wiring harness? As Gene says he thinks the IR led's are not "hot" enough.Today i am gonna put two IR emitters on a single 12V powerpack.As it sits now i have all four emitters on a single 12V pack.Since i have two 12V-200mAh powerpacks i'll see i can get them hot enough by doing a 2X2 setup. :rolleyes:

Thanks guys. I just know how much fun it is once the whole thing works! :)

Yes, you can simply cut out the sensors and put the reeds in their place.

RiderZ don't waste your time on the 2x2 idea, when LED's are in parallel the voltage in the circuit is the same no matter how many are being used (so long as there's sufficient mA).

I came up with a theory last night, and it relates to calibrating. It don't have a gamepad to try so I gotta ask, when you guys calibrate, does windows ask to just push and release the button, or are you promted to push and then prompted to release?

Up early this morning eh