OK, this sounds dumb, but believe it or not I have never used Future as a clearcoat. I have questions for anyone who has.

1. Is this good choice for clearcoat?

2. Can it be sprayed through the airbrush?

3. If so, what is the mixture ratio and can it be cleaned with water.

4. Back to #3, have any of you created problems with your airbrush? I definitely don't want to screw up my airbrush.

Any tips, info, experience you can share would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Gary

you're not alone.. I have never used it either.

1, find it. i had to look. finally found it at target.

2. find a clean sealable tub. i stole my wife's quart sized tupperware. fill 2/3 full or so with future.

3. wash and dry bodies well.

4. get a pair of tweezers or a wire hook.

5. dump as many bodies as will fit in the future.

6. wait about 30 seconds and use tweezers or wire hook to pull out first body. future is self leveling. you can shake or tap the body to remove the excess.

7. place on rack or dowels to dry. you can dry on newspaper, but sometime a bit of paper may stick to the bottom of the body as the future dries.

8. repeat if desired. i know mike u does 2-3 coats, i am lazy and do 1.

Nerver sprayed it because I had great results dipping. Didn't quite do it like mking with many bodies at once, just did one at a time. Would dip, tap/shake body to flick off excess then let set for a hour or so. Do it again If I wanted it glossier. :) rr

The "locals" here recommended Future and i swear by it now. I dip my hard bodies and lexan bodies. The more dips the fatter the finish. It really deepens the colors, and gives a sweet finish coat. mj

no one has sprayed this? I heard you could. I also heard you could wash it with water. I do not know where I saw this.

OK, here is a question for the dippers of Future. Does the wax build up in the crevice's? What I mean, if you have a detailed model with tiny bumps, lumps, and indentations, does the dipped future fill in these areas, and are they hard to tap the excess off?

ive never noticed any fill in of low spots being a problem

but on of the selling points of future (at least to 1960 housewives) is that you can easily strip future using a common solvent: ammonia.

so dont use windex to clean your coated bodies :)

From Reinecke Motorsports
"quote"
Coating with Future Floor Wax

A few years ago, I was decaling a slot car and had a reaction between the paint on the body and the solvent I was using to set the decals with. A few mouse clicks on the World Wide Web taught me that many modellers used Future Floor Wax to coat their builds, often hiding issues with the paint, as well as protecting it. I tried it a few days later, and to my delight, found it did everything they said.

I've used it numerous times as my clear coat when painting slot cars. For this example, I'm going to use it over two cars that are already painted, but I've recently decaled.

Begin by disassembling the body. Using an Xacto knife or other instrument, carefully remove the melted tabs. Be sure to put all of the parts in something so you don't lose them. In my shop, I utilize old slot car case lids.

future1.jpg (55798 bytes) future2.jpg (67226 bytes)

If you've raced the car, buff out any areas on the body that may have scratches. I use Novus polish and a scrap of old T-shirt for this job.

future3.jpg (25769 bytes) future4.jpg (42154 bytes) future5.jpg (22931 bytes)

Next, clean off any fingerprints or residue as they will appear under the Future coat. I wash my bodies in a mild detergent such as Dawn dishwashing liquid. After drying, I wipe off any possible prints and then decal the car. After decaling is complete, I wipe the car down again once they are dry.

future6.jpg (42992 bytes)

In order to keep any dust off the body when the Future is applied, I use a stand (in this case an old digital camera dock) and a slot car case lid to cover it. I place a paper towel under the base to catch the Future as it drips off the car. I also use an old tire to keep the lid propped up slightly so it can breathe. The tray under it is an old lunch room tray one of my kid's schools were getting rid of. I actually have several of these and it helps when moving projects around.

future7.jpg (41064 bytes)

When "dipping" a body into the Future, I use a fork to hold it. I submerge the entire body into the Future, which I've poured into a sealable container. When raising the body back out, I let it drip for a minute and place it onto the stand.

future8.jpg (33218 bytes) future9.jpg (41487 bytes) future10.jpg (42970 bytes)

I then take a papertowel and blot the bottom of the body where drips are appearing. This ensures I don't have dried blobs of Future hanging onto the body later. I then cover the body with the case lid. I check every 5 minutes or so and re-blot the body.

future11.jpg (32055 bytes) future12.jpg (39837 bytes)

When brushing a body, such as this one that is assembled due to it's clam-shell style, I like to use a medium sized model brush. Simply paint the Future on. I even do the glass as I think it makes it look thinner when dry. Cover the car as before and a let it sit for a few hours.

future14.jpg (38428 bytes) future15.jpg (30769 bytes) future16.jpg (43462 bytes)

Results: Worth it! Future not only protects decals and paint, but it gives it a great shine!

"unquote"

Above described handling is for a 1/32 slot car, but that`s the same way for H0

OK, here is a question for the dippers of Future. Does the wax build up in the crevice's? What I mean, if you have a detailed model with tiny bumps, lumps, and indentations, does the dipped future fill in these areas, and are they hard to tap the excess off?
It can, but you "tip" the body in all directions so all the excess rolls off and then place it on a paper towel for a couple of minutes to wick off the excess. I've have a couple of bodies where the Future kind of sheeted and didn't want to cover wide flat angeled areas evenly. (AFX 240z) But thats about the only issue i've ever had. If you don't like it you can remove Future with Windex or ammonia. Heres a link that has been posted here before with info, more than you ever want to know about Future. mj
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

How long to you need to let a car dry, after being painted, before dipping in Future???

Nevermind, I found it!!!

I just did these two this week. I just dip them for about 5 seconds and let them dry for a min of 2 hours between dips. I usually do three dips. These were dipped three times.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f288/micyou03/2008-01%20Slots/01-21-08PanozRed3402.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f288/micyou03/2008-01%20Slots/01-23-08GulfChaparral04.jpg

What happens if you dip a complete body (chrome and windows still attached)? Does this hurt the chrome or cloud the glass? Thanks.

I have been dipping for quite a while. I usually dip once after the base colors are on to seal them before detailing. Once I have all the details painted and glass in, I'll dip it once more before any decals. Then a final dip after the decals are set.

As for chrome and glass, I've seen no ill effects on them.

I did recently try future through the airbrush. Straight from the bottle worked just fine. It does cleanup with water if you do it imediately. It is acryllic based, as are most paints sold specificly for airbrushes, and there are cleaners just for that. I've seen no ill effects in the airbrush after a water cleaning. The finish though was no different than dipping, so I'm not likely to do it again.

Another question a friend asked me, so I said I'll ask the experts!!! If you have a silver or gold car, put a red tint in the clear, will it give a candy finish???

caution .Time can leave "Future as a clearcoat " checked like old paint .Some have it some dont on a group of cars a did about 5 years ago .Anyone else notice this on cars done with future a long time ago?

I dip my cars glass, chrome and everything in place and have had no problem. I did have a car once look cloudy, but after it dried more it cleared up. It was during the humid months, so it just took lomger to dry.

I looked at cars I did five years ago and they look good still. I do my HO cars, 1/43rd and my 1/24th cars with future, even my vac-formed cars. No problem yet.

OK I'm the weird one -- I dip a Testors paint brush in Future and just paint it on by hand. I usually only do two coats.

I put mine in a spray bottle, works just fine. Usually do 2-3 sprays. Have had a little build up on soe bodies right at the bottom, but otherwise turns out fine. Sorry, no pics

OK I'm the weird one -- I dip a Testors paint brush in Future and just paint it on by hand. I usually only do two coats.

Doba,

I use a brush some times also. This Mullet beer truck was brushed with future. It started out as being painted Zinc Chromate Green (which is flat) and put the decals on first...then Futured it. The yellow tape is the thin sticky back Pactra kind (comes on a roll in different widths) and it sealed this in very nicely also.

I dipped this Hooters truck two times in Future but, that was in the summer in my garage were a mess doesn't matter much. Not that Future is messy but, shake....shake...shake can get Future on things. Probably I am just messy....har

Oooooh and be careful about shaking off excess Future on bodies with lots of decals. Make sure you give the decals some time to dry on well first. I got in a hurry once and shook kinda hard and the decals started to move out of place. I just moved them back into place with a toothpick. Luckily I noticed this. :) Was running out the door to go some place with the Wife and kids. Ginger wasn't to happy about the extra time it was taking to fix my Ooooops.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/awullt5.jpg

Will have to go and take some pics of my red Sand Van I just Futured. Going to add some decals to it and then Future again. It is cold here in Nebraska now and if it hits 40 deg. I spray flat paint to avoid any drips or paint build up. You can not tell that this was painted in flat red. I did have to work it a little by going around a couple of times with the brush to get it to cover all the areas because, the flat likes to repel the Future a bit. Painted bodies good, no painted bodies bad.

First I strip the bodies of all the existing paint with a Pine Sol soak for several days and then bring out the ELO (Easy Lift Off) from the hobby stores sold in cans like large Testors air brush thinner to really get bodies stripped of all paint in the door cracks and such with the aid of toothpicks and toothbrushes. I like to keep the original detail by stripping off all the paint.

Yes Future is self leveling as others have said and I use it on almost every car I do with only positive results to date. :) Have learned from the many post here about Future and others know more about it than me for sure. It works!

Will have to post my Red Sand Van when it is done. You would never know it was painted flat red originally.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/ared2-1.jpg

I did use Testors High Gloss clear coat through my air brush on the HOHT Roadsters and that worked fine. It was kinda cold so, because of the clear coat messing up paint on 2 of them. I did have to repaint 2 of them all over again. Oooooooooh man that was not fun as I was under the gun but, it all worked out thank fully. Wheeeew!

Will use regular clear coat again this summer on some cars as that is nice also but, always need to worry about crinkling the decals this way. A light first coat is important to keep the decals from crinkling...aaaaaaaaaaaaah. Walk away and come back later after you get the first light coat on.

Bob...zilla

Another question a friend asked me, so I said I'll ask the experts!!! If you have a silver or gold car, put a red tint in the clear, will it give a candy finish???

I dunno about that, but most hobbyshops sell "transparent, or clear paint" I think Tamiya is the brand I use. Works like a charm.

I don't dip my cars, just brush on heavy coats, anywhere from 3-5 coats. giving dry time between.

We have Future at Homo Depot..........and by the way, Future is damn good on vinyl floors too, really brings them back to life.

Never dipped. I use a soft floppy brush. Like the Crayola brand that are designed for kids to watercolor paint with. My local supermarket even sells them in the stationary aisle. I find brushing helps me control drips and sags. 3 light coats minimum and BobZ is right about trying to control decal crinkle beforehand. I pre-treat decals with a very light smear of future over them. Some crinkle some don't. The pre-treat shows you which do and don't, keeps them in place, and sort of tempers them for the first "official" coat of Future.

nd

Another question a friend asked me, so I said I'll ask the experts!!! If you have a silver or gold car, put a red tint in the clear, will it give a candy finish???
From the Future link i posted earlier in the thread:
If you want to create your own shades of transparent colors, food coloring can be mixed with Future for the desired effect. Tamiya clear colors work well as toners also. If you mess up, you haven't invested as much money as you would combining clear paints.

For those gold tinted canopies on contemporary jet fighters try adding a few drops of Tamiya acrylic gold to a couple teaspoons of Future.

Here is a 1/32 metal pullback that I just Futured last night after detailing it up for our 4 year old son Fletcher. I used the brush application and it only took a few min. for each of the 2 coats. Waited for the first coat to dry...then about an hour or so later hit it again.

Fletcher wanted my 1/32 plastic Herbie...Noooooooooo way Ho-say! So, did this up and it is good to go. Way shinny now and even put it on the glass. Made the glass look way better and clearer.

1 day of play and it is still looking good. Everything is sealed in real well now and isn't going to move around.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/afifty1.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/afifty2.jpg

I found this Herbie plastic bodied pull back (on the right) at Wally Marty several months ago. This would be perfect for a 1/32 Eldon slot car. It is practically made for it...yeah and they are pricey on the bay now also. Only found this one and it is back in my display case for life now. Wish I would have grabbed a VW Van also...oh dang!

Bob...zilla

I posted this pic in the frustration thread, but I wanted to say thanks for the Future technique. I did a double dip on the 57, came out smooth and glossy. I can't say thanks enough for all the ideas and tips on Hobby Talk. It's a great place to be!!! Randy

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/kwikdeals/DSC02469.jpg

Damn, that is hot!

Gary,

I have sprayed it but with a el cheapo sparay gun. In the winter I would have to heat it in the microwave for a few seconds to thin it. However most of the time I either dip it or brush it on with a foam brush. It is self leveling. I have dipped it a couple of different ways. One way is to leave it on the paint stand then use a paper towel to wick off the excess on the bottom edges. The secon way is I just drop the body in a plastic bowl of future and use two wodden dowels in the wheel well area or one through the glass to pick it up then set it on a paper plate. I shake the body side to side on the plate to remove the excess future.

I have sprayed it ofer glass and chrome with no problem. I sometimes put a coat on before the decals and normally put a couple coats on before I do my detail work as any mistakes are esaily wipped off with mineral spirts and a micro Q Tip. Besides I want my flat balck to look flat :). Another thing I have done is mix black resin pigment with the future and use it to coat my cast in glass.

Roger Corrie

I posted this pic in the frustration thread, but I wanted to say thanks for the Future technique. I did a double dip on the 57, came out smooth and glossy. I can't say thanks enough for all the ideas and tips on Hobby Talk. It's a great place to be!!! Randy

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/kwikdeals/DSC02469.jpg

I'll email you my address................Sweet! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: rr