Well new year time for a new thread. Anyone with any questions for us weather its car setup or product questions I'll help the best I can. Racing all around the midwest and country the last few years I've had experience on lots of different tracks and situations. Our good old buddy Monti is always up for a good setup explanation as well haha.

I also need to thank everyone that has supported us over the years and I hope we have helped you in one way or another, your support is truly appreciated.

Hays Jr
www.lefthander-rc.com

Also I thought I'd post some races coming up locally from around the WI area. This year we've seen excellent car counts all year long and some of the best racing in years among some great drivers. Between The Midwest Triclone and S&N Trackside Hobbies car counts have been ranging between 40-75 with lots of new faces and I hope that trend continues, I feel oval racing has gained some momentum as of late and hopefully it'll keep growing. The best thing we all can do is show up have fun and help eachother out.

Upcoming Race Dates:
*Jan 26th Sat. Midwest Triclone, West Bend WI
*Feb 9th Sat. Midwest Triclone, West Bend WI
*Feb 16th Sat. WBRL #3 @ Victory Hobbies in Green Bay WI
*Feb 17th Sun. S&N Trackside hobbies, Milwaukee WI
*Mar 1 & 2nd BRL race #6 @ Victory Hobbies in Greenbay WI
*Mar. 8th Sat. Midwest Triclone, West Bend WI
*Mar. 30th Sun. WBRL #4 S&N Trackside Hobbies, Milwaukee WI

*The track in Monroe WI races every Sunday now and they've been getting a good crowd down there as well.
*Victory Hobbies races every Thurday night as well

www.triclone.net
www.victoryhobbies.com
www.trackside.com
www.cheesecityxtremerc.com

see everyone at the track,
Hays Jr

Hays jr, great idea !!!!!! I will be here, to get answers. Thanks :thumbsup:

hi i need help w/ HD-3 slider i going the BRL at summit would run rear at that
track and if so how do i get the parts and how much 1/2 degree or more.
this is the first HD car.
seeya Dave

How about some tips for a bulimic giraffe, on how to tighten a diff? :tongue:

How about some tips for a bulimic giraffe, on how to tighten a diff? :tongue:


Sully's diff has always looked plenty tight to me! :hat:

hi i need help w/ HD-3 slider i going the BRL at summit would run rear at that
track and if so how do i get the parts and how much 1/2 degree or more.
this is the first HD car.
seeya Dave

Dave,
I have never been a big fan of rear stear. If you can get the car to turn without it the car will be alot more forgiving and consistant to drive. If no matter what you do you cant get it to turn and the car is always tight then I would try it as a last resort, but no more that 1/2 deg. I see it kind of as a crutch. If you need any help stop by this weekend.

thanks seeya Dave

Jr, how can I get Cody's car to stop oversteering on corner exit? I have tried more tweak, moving left rear tire out. But still does it. Any suggestions? Thanks

Jr, how can I get Cody's car to stop oversteering on corner exit? I have tried more tweak, moving left rear tire out. But still does it. Any suggestions? Thanks


I'm not Jr. but (in no particular order).......

RF moved out
Harder LF spring
Shim of preload on LF spring
Harder LF tire
Harder RR spring
Move side shocks one hole down
Offset offset, if you aren't already
Move the batteries forward

Make natural progression from minor change to major.

First step is shim of preload
if that doesn't work, take the shim out and go one step on the LF spring
If that doesn't work try the harder LF tire
If that doesn't work move the RF
From there go to the rear springs and chassis layout changes.

Everything Pat said will definately help, but the first thing I always check is your chassis heights. Changing the heights on the chassis will change the attitude of the car more than anything else you can do. Keeping the chassis relatively level across the front and from front to back will help keep the car alot more balanced. I would start out by leveling out the chassis if it isnt and even if this makes the car tighter it will be more balanced and then you can always go lighter on the front springs or more camber gain or camber to try to get the front end more grip. Ideally I usually run 4.5mm clearance on the RF and LF and 4.5-5 mm by the LR of the batterytray and 5mm clearance under the rear pod. The LF is usually slightly lower that RF, and the RR is usually slightley higher that LR. Raising the RF, or lowering the rear end will help make the car not dig so much coming off the corner. Ideally your looking to either make the chassis more balanced or add rear grip first before you start taking away front grip.

Next thing I would try in this order is softer tires in the rear(if you can), preloading the RF spring, moving the batts forward, moving he RR tire IN if you can, and like pat said lastly moving the RF out on the chassis.

Hope that helps, if you still having problems talk to Jamie this weekend he can probably help you out.

Hope this helps, I'll see you at the next race in Feb.

I just updated the website this morning and we have KSG parts back in stock.

Sully's diff has always looked plenty tight to me! :hat:

I was talking about Gansen!!

I was talking about Gansen!!

I know! :)

But the reference fits Sully so well I couldn't resist.

Hays, right on with the chassis heights. For the last few weeks I've made an effort to be a lot more particular with keeping my eye on that and it has paid off a lot, I think.

Here's a question pertaining to the chassis height deal, sort of. You're probably running a fiberglass T-Plate unless you've changed that up since I last saw your car. If you were running a SS T-plate would you shim the pod down at the T-plate to make up for the difference in thickness between a SS and FG plate? Do you think it makes any difference? Personally, I haven't been.

Pat
Yea having a height gauge really helps, and keeping an eye on the heights is the best way to keep the car consistant throughout the day and week to week. 1/2mm or about .020" is actually a pretty big change and on a good car .010" you can feel.

on the t-plate....
I think it does makes a little difference just because the back of your chassis (not the rear pod) is actually being lowered (.030" or so) from where it was before. So if you switched from fiberglass without shiming it right your really losing that much ride height near the back of the chassis in front of the bottom plate as well as changing the t-plate. While it probably isnt that big of deal I guess to keep all things equal your probably best off to throw some shims in there.

I mostly run fiberglass but I'm gonna try a s.s. this weekend at Ft. Wayne. I ran the ORC s.s. on the outdoor track this summer and it seemed to work really good.

Thanks for the tips Pat and JR. I will give them a try next time we are at Trackside.

Hays or Pat, I have just spent the last 3 hrs trying to level out my car. Everything i throw at it, L.f. still .020 high, and l.r. low. Shimmed the front down, adjusted center shock and so on. Do you thing that i just do not have enough shims on the ss t-plate. I already have the associated stock plus.020. Need help fast, or no ForteWayne for me......Thanks , Bobby

Is the hot setup for wingless (BRL) 13.5 still center t-plate/offset pod? Has anybody had any success running offset/offset? Thanks. Bob

Hays or Pat, I have just spent the last 3 hrs trying to level out my car. Everything i throw at it, L.f. still .020 high, and l.r. low. Shimmed the front down, adjusted center shock and so on. Do you thing that i just do not have enough shims on the ss t-plate. I already have the associated stock plus.020. Need help fast, or no ForteWayne for me......Thanks , Bobby


Bobby,
First make sure your staggers are close and that you dont have a bunch of reverse stagger in the front tires or too much positive stagger in the rear tires. If thats not it then I would make sure you take all the sag out of the RF spring or take a shim off the LF spring if it is preloaded too much. You can also put some shims under the LF a-arm to lower the LF down a little as well. In the rear I would check the tweak. When you put tweak IN it raises the LR of the chassis and lowers the RR, personally I would get it close to 400g and go from there.

Dont panic lol, just get it close and then stop by tomorrow and we'll figure it out. It is hard to say for sure what the problem since everything kind of works together but I would start trying those things. I'll be there friday around 6pmish so if you can get there we'll have lots of time to mess with it.

As long as the t-plate is close to level with the chassis that should be fine. You may need to add another .020" since I think the stock spacers are .070" plus the .020" you added makes .090" you'll probably need it in the .120-.130" worth of spacers range for the s.s.
see ya this weekend.

Is the hot setup for wingless (BRL) 13.5 still center t-plate/offset pod? Has anybody had any success running offset/offset? Thanks. Bob

Bob,
Personally I would keep it offset/offset for 13.5 since the cars tend to be on the loose side with no wing and your trying to get forward bite most of the time. There has been lots of guys running offset/offset around here in 13.5. Also we sent your backordered stuff today.

Thanks,
Hays Jr

bob i use to only run offset offset, for the last month been runnin straight up tee off set pod, in my situations straighten up the tee has really free d my ride up but ive gone to a softer t w no center screw, when i ran offset offset, ran harder tees w center screws in, which is better is a matter of oppinion, but im really likin straight up t off set pod IMO hpe it helps

C3

Hays, Thanks for you reply. I was looking down the bottom of the chassis on the l. side , the last 1 1/2" by the battery slots is bowed down .030 to .040.........Thanks for your help. Bobby

good luck this weekend Hays
but you don't need luck , right? :thumbsup:

Thanks for the insight guys. I have been running center T with offset pod for a few months and have done a lot of work to get the car stable. Lately the car has been pretty good but it took a very un-aggressive chassis setup to get it stuck and stable. I am trying offset/offset this weekend hoping that it allows me to go a little more aggressive in the front to gain more overall traction. Thanks again. Great thread. Bob. .

Thanks for the insight guys. I have been running center T with offset pod for a few months and have done a lot of work to get the car stable. Lately the car has been pretty good but it took a very un-aggressive chassis setup to get it stuck and stable. I am trying offset/offset this weekend hoping that it allows me to go a little more aggressive in the front to gain more overall traction. Thanks again. Great thread. Bob. .

Yea I think that'll help if your car is very unstable. Like C3 said I dont think one is really better than the other but if your always having problems getting the car to drive off the corner offset/offset is probably better. But if you cant get it to turn coming off the corner centered t/offset pod is probably better.

Brian,
Come see me Monday we should have more snow to shovel haha.

Bobby,
A little stiffer center spring and a little shorter center shock might help to. I'll see you this weekend.

Good luck to both of you this weekend !!! :thumbsup:

Conratulations to Hays Jr. it sounds like he took home the win at Ft. Wayne!!!! Nice work! First BRL win!

Good job Hays!! Also kudos to Gansen, Jason Hack, and Steiner at Fort Wayne.
Did you guys have enough money to get home or did you leave it all at the "establishment" in Fort Wayne? Matt, how are your ears?

Congrats JR !!!! :thumbsup:

Congrats Hays on the A main win at Ft Wayne!! :thumbsup:

great racing & talking with WI. gang. congat. on win JR.
seeya in GB
Dave

Hay's I am sure I asked you about this before, but what is your opinion on using straight rate springs vs. progressive springs in the font end.

Hay's I am sure I asked you about this before, but what is your opinion on using straight rate springs vs. progressive springs in the font end.

Ken,
The progressives are gonna take away a tick of steering coming out if you keep the same color spring. On carpet if i run a progressive its usually only on the RF and that would be a white progressive. Normally I try to start with 2 standards up front and then go from there(usually a white LF8# and Red RF10# wolfe). But if the car needs more turn in I'll put a white progressive on the RF (8-10).

The only track I've had consistent success running 2 progressives is the outdoor track at triclone and thats mostly beacuse it keeps the car from bottoming out in 1 and 3.

I havent used the bi-rate springs much, but what I've seen you have to make sure you dont preload those much or they start acting goofy. My car had a tendancy to get up on the right side tires and almost pick the left sides up using the bi-rate springs. But like I said i havent run them all that much. This hass all been in 10.5.

The other thing is I think is your best off deciding on what to run and sticking with it.since switching from progressives/standards/bi-rates isnt gonna change the overall speed of the car a whole lot but it will change the feel of it more than anything. If you look at most of the cars in the A in 10.5, mod at snowbirds I would bet that most of them will have some type of standard rate spring on, be it associated springs or Wolfe type springs.

I was running two 10# standards in Indiana and the car was good on them, I went to a softer spring across the front 8.5# and the car handled great, but the lap times really fell off. I am not sure, but it seams like to me that 13.5 cars like a little stiffer spring in the front then a 10.5 car, but that is just what I noticied.

I was running two 10# standards in Indiana and the car was good on them, I went to a softer spring across the front 8.5# and the car handled great, but the lap times really fell off. I am not sure, but it seams like to me that 13.5 cars like a little stiffer spring in the front then a 10.5 car, but that is just what I noticied.

I saw the same thing on my 21.5 LiPo Gen-2. I went from two standard Reds to two standard whites in front and the lap times were slower... not sure why -- that was the only thing I changed on the car.

I was running two 10# standards in Indiana and the car was good on them, I went to a softer spring across the front 8.5# and the car handled great, but the lap times really fell off. I am not sure, but it seams like to me that 13.5 cars like a little stiffer spring in the front then a 10.5 car, but that is just what I noticied.

I would agree about the 13.5 cars. In 10.5 your always looking for more steering so running softer helps. In 13.5 if you go too soft you may start losing the back end a little since you dont have the wing.

The best my 13.5 car has ever run was wiht springs from the 10# to the 12# range, with moving the battery tray as far forward to tighten up the car without the wingthe soft springs have so much sag in them they are over half way compressed with weight in the car.

Hay's forgot to ask, did you stay with the #1 and #0 locators when using the Toyota body or did you go back to the #2 with it.

Congrats Hays on the A main win at Ft Wayne!! :thumbsup:

I will get you one of these times!!! Next time your TQing..hah:p:thumbsup:

-Matt

Great job by all the Lefthander crew.

Always fun and fast.......great combination.

see everyone in GB

I have noticed alot of guys running the Camry body in 13.5. Is it helping the cut in the corner better, or more stable? And do you think it would work on a 17.5 car or is there too much down force for that speed? Thanks

Jr, how can I get Cody's car to stop oversteering on corner exit? I have tried more tweak, moving left rear tire out. But still does it. Any suggestions? Thanks

Try a couple pounds softer rear springs also you may be surprised.....

I have noticed alot of guys running the Camry body in 13.5. Is it helping the cut in the corner better, or more stable? And do you think it would work on a 17.5 car or is there too much down force for that speed? Thanks

It provides turn in needed without a bunch of rear deck for stability in 13.5 with that I see quite a few guys running soft center springs and trays forward.
As far as for 17.5 I have seen guys running it with success, give it a try however you may need to tweak your set-up from what ever body you are using now.

Hello, What is a good Ackerman setting on a pan car ? Is there a standard amount you should shoot for or is there a easy way to figur the propper setting, or is it not important enough to wory about ?

Thanks' AL

Ken,
Yea I kept the #1 out RF and #2 out LF locators. I've pretty much decided to stay with that and leave it alone. It seems like the guys that have tried other settings end up back there more often then not.

Steve,
One isnt better, they just require a little different setup. The camry will turn in harder than the charger but the charger will have a little more rear grip. If your switching from the charger to the yoda without changing anything else your definately gonna need to find a little more rear grip for wingless classes. Like trans said, move the battery forward, softer rear suspension, more tweak. Lots of guys have switched but theres guys running plenty fast with the charger still. Last weekend in Ft. Wayne a charger tqd both 17.5 and 13.5 and there were plenty fast cars with chargers on them. I would probably stay with the charger for Cody since its a little more forgiving to drive, but it never hurts to try. Personally for 13.5 I'm going to stick with the charger, since the few times I've run it I've needed all the rear grip I could get and that is generally the biggest problem with the 13.5 wingless is rear grip.


Al,
I guess I dont have an exact measurement to give you since its kind of hard to measure and I dont have my car infront of me, but I would def suggest keeping some angle on the tie rods as it'll help to settle the car down and use the large kimbrough servo saver for the same reason. Heres a pic of Franks car and this is about the angle most guys including myself run on the tierods.... http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=169728&page=29&pp=15
The last few weeks I had played around with straightening out the left tie rod to help the car turn a little more coming out, but it didnt change the car all that much it was pretty minor. I would suggest putting some angle on them and not worrying about it all that much.

Thanks for the info. That looks pretty close to where I have it. I just wasn't sure if it would make much of a diferance in a weel base this small. Thanks again for the info and thanks for all the great sevice on parts that I have ordered.

AL

Thanks for the info.