I have been looking to buy a high end HO racing controller.My needs are broad in that I want to run not only G-jets,but also up to restricted open class too.Basically a controller that will do everything.If you have any suggestions,I would greatly appreciate it.I am new to the RACING part of the hobby so bare with me.Thanks in advance!

Your choice of controller is hugely dependent on your driving style and the physical balance and trigger feel you like. Your best bet is to borrow candidates and see how you like them after several minutes and laps with your own cars. It comes down to what you feel most comfortable and effective with. Unless you race with a group this may be difficult and you may have to buy a controller based on specs and other people's opinions.

The Difalco series of controllers have all of the right credentials for working well with all of the classes of racing that you mentioned, as well as others including TJets, SS, Mod, RO, boxstock, Magnatractions, etc. With adjustments for sensitivity (gain), brake, choke, and per-band response pots on the Fanatic series, you can adapt the Difalco to just about any personal preferences. The Difalco has the specs.

My only beef with Difalco HO controllers is their relative fragility, lack of built-in protection on the brake circuit, low end pots, and the maintainability issue introduced by the manufacturer by scraping the part number off the power transistor, which is the part most likely to fail due to the lack of protection on the brake circuit. I'm not trying to take food out of the mouths of babies, but if you build a controller without adequate protection and then make the part that's most likely to blow a "mystery" part only available with a lengthy delay then I'm going to call it a deficiency. I'd like to be able to stock up on a few spares at Radio Shack or Frys and have them in my box - just in case. I'd also like to see a fuse or breaker on the brake line like they put on their 1:24 controllers. Heavier duty wire wound potentiometers would be nice too.

If you are willing to wait a while, Lucky Bob is in the process of manufacturing a custom controller that has fantastic feel and is pretty much bullet proof. The waiting list is forming.

.

Slot.it do a killer unit for $100

http://www.slot.it/immagini/News/scp-1_scatola.jpg

Have you tried the Slot-it controller Deane.
Dave you should have a 3 amp fuse in your tracks brake circuit,to protect things .
Personally i love my Difalco Fanatic
Rick

Well for the group of us forming a club here,I am the pioneer behind the idea to get better then Parma controller performance.After we realized the scope of the cars out there,there now is a need for a high end controller.We are all radio controller racers and realize the need for total control even through adjustments in the control itself.I appreciate the help guys.Keep it coming!

BTW,where do you sign up for the Lucky Bob controller?

First try with the Slot.it in anger will be this Sunday.

I HIGHLY recommend you talk to Steve Medanic if you want a controller that will run everything. Mine run it all form a T-Jet to a G3 Super Stock with no problems whatsoever. Steve has built a winner with this controller.

http://home.comcast.net/~medanic/M-Magic/Magic-1.htm

.

Slot.it do a killer unit for $100



Wow.

Umm, well, I know at least what the trigger is for!!

No worries Rudy! It's very simple.

The front knob is to adjust your beer temp...
Middle knob is the microwave timer for snacks...
Rear knob is for climate control...

The combination up and down pads are for volume control of tunes and speed dial for the pizza guy...
The little knob is the cloaking device...
The toggle arms the photon torpedos :thumbsup:

I believe the block offs are for the advanced deflector aray upgrade used only when racing Mike King at Marty's house.

Looking forward to next years tractor beam option!

If you forget your wallet and can't chip in for said pizza, you can also call in an airstrike by A10 Warthogs for close air support and then get extracted by a Seal Team. nd

Professor Motor works real well for $119.00 . Run T-Jets on up to G3R,T1, storm, all in SS form

No worries Rudy! It's very simple.

The front knob is to adjust your beer temp...
Middle knob is the microwave timer for snacks...
Rear knob is for climate control...

The combination up and down pads are for volume control of tunes and speed dial for the pizza guy...
The little knob is the cloaking device...
The toggle arms the photon torpedos :thumbsup:

I believe the block offs are for the advanced deflector aray upgrade used only when racing Mike King at Marty's house.

Looking forward to next years tractor beam option!

Geez, I really need to get me one of those.

racenet123, the main benefit of the electronic controllers are their ability to operate more than one type of car. Lacking an electronic controller you could potentially have to buy one Parma type controller for every class of car you race.

Most of the electronic controllers on the market (except for the older PM diode models) use the same basic, decades old transistor amplifier design. They all do the same basic thing and borrow on lessons learned from previous technology, such as bypass "blast" relays and variable brakes. The differences are mainly in packaging, protection circuitry, and how the wiper control is implemented. The sum of the design and fabrication skill that goes into the total package is generally still worthy of the prices they command even if they are not technically sophisticated.

Steve's new controller falls into the same category as all of the other transistor based units. It looks to be packaged in a way that eliminates the clunky hanging dongle that is characteristic of most of the transistor based designs. That is a good thing in my opinion as long as thermal management of the power transistor is adequate across all classes of car that the unit must operate with. I can't see the heatsink in the picture but I assume it's a slab of metal on the backside of the controller. The "independent test" that is referenced is little more than a "testimonial" and is lacking in any hard data or side by side objective comparison to other brands. However, none of the other controllers provide anything better and there is still no good side by side comparison of all of the available controllers on the market and I doubt Consumer Reports is going to do one anytime soon. Thus, you are left with opinion based evaluations and unscientific testimonials.

The unit that intrigues me is the new Professor Motor transistor based controllers because of the PRICE. I would be VERY interested is seeing a good scientific review of the PM because it is about one half the price of anything else out there right now.

I generally like my Difalco although it has all the issues previously noted. I've also raced with a J&S controller a couple of times and thought it had a slightly better feel due to the "wiperless" design. Whatever you choose, getting the most out of it and adapting your driving technique to exploit the controller's full potential will still require a lot of dedication and practice. You still have to do all the hard work.

The PM's are very nice and priced right. The response of the sensitivity control is something I found to be better than most...you immediately feel the slightest change, to me moreso than on some higher-end models.

Something with that slot.it controller that has me looking, though, is that apparently you can store and upload data from it?

Ok, I am looking at the professor motor controllers.I wil be running G-jets{12volts} and am I missing something or will I need to buy 2 controllers to run the G-jet and other class of cars like a Superstock car that has a much higher voltage requirement?

Check out the PMTR2056 12v-19v $99.95 Professor Motor. Scroll down to bottom you will see it

This is a good question because the PM controller is recommended for use in the 14V-18V range. What happens if you use it at 12V depends on its design. I don't know what the Difalco or other controllers recommended operating voltage is. If you are going to use a transistor based controller you should be aware that it may not function correctly at all voltages so you should check with the manufacturers ahead of time if you are going to be changing your track voltage significantly away from the 18V defacto standard.

Removing the traction magnets from a race car designed for running with maximum magnetic downforce is going to make it hard to handle. So what do you do? First you substitute a lower performance arm to slow it down. What if that still doesn't work? Is there anything else that you can change on your car to make it work as intended? Apparently not, since we are being asked to run our tracks at lower than standard voltages to accommodate the inability of some of these cars to meet their application criteria at standard track voltages.

What would I do if I had a PM controller and still wanted to run one of the various magna-brass cars? I'd set the track voltage to 15V and drive the car. Maybe add a little choke. Rest assured that if you are running a GJet at 15V and you hear footsteps rapidly approaching your front door, it is either 1) someone trying to raise your spiritual awareness, 2) the pizza boy trying to raise your cholesterol count, or 3) the fourth new yellow phone book of the week has finally arrived. It is not the Slot Car Police enforcing the 12V Ordinance. In Basementville you are the law, you are the man, and you make all the rules. Unless, of course, you're married.

In Basementville you are the law, you are the man, and you make all the rules. Unless, of course, you're married.



*snicker*

OK Maotoya1 Sunday is about over - Now how did the Slot.it $100 wonder preform?
Inquiring minds want to know! ! ! ! !

Unfortunatly the track was hard wired, and the wrong way for electronics, so I could not try it :(

The good news is my resistor Parma mit et-grip worked well.

.

Slot.it do a killer unit for $100

http://www.slot.it/immagini/News/scp-1_scatola.jpg

Has anyone tried this with HO? Where can I order one?

http://www.slot.it/INGLESE/News.html

Another question as well concerning that slot.it controller. Is that a wiperless trigger? Looks like it but without holding it in my hands I have no real idea. I'm in need of good controllers as I have now completely wired my track for the clip-on controllers. I have 2 professor motors, which are ok, but I need more for my 4 laner.

Cheers,
Xence

I just read the specs - Its not 'wiperless' but a magnetic sweep arm which touches nothing?!?!

Where can one get this controller?

When it comes to aftermarket controllers there are a lot of choices out there... :freak:

http://www.planetofspeed.com/discus/messages/2785/1084.jpg

If you're looking for something use for a variety of cars, Professor Motor (http://www.professormotor.com) makes a good controller for the money. I have had one for about fives years now and it is reliable. The individual control knobs are kind of tedious but they do work well for fine tuning your driving experiences. And the PM controllers are much larger for an adult hand.

http://www.planetofspeed.com/discus/messages/8/2529.jpg

http://www.planetofspeed.com/discus/messages/8/2528.jpg

I picked up a Ruddock (http://gofastest.com/dr/) DR30 over the summer and it is a great controller. It's hard to justify a couple of hundred bucks for a slot car controller but I got it used for $150 and I like it. I tried to compete in a GJet and TJet race with the PM on a battery powered routed Brystal track and BuckTrak and I couldn't compete. And I wouldn't even think of using the PM in the SS races I have run. The DR30 I bought was more suitable to those tracks and races. However I do like the PM for home racing with different kinds of cars. For @ $100 it does a great job.

DR30:

http://www.imca-slotracing.com/images/contr-dr30.jpg

-Scott

Where can one get this controller?
Here is the manufacturer in the UK.
http://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/

Still the odd old Omni kicking around i see Scott :wave:
They aren't a bad controller if you can still find the kit to build one. :thumbsup:

Does anyone know if that slot.it controller will work with the HO scale or am I just missing something here?

I emailed the slot.it people with the following and received a pretty quick response :

Good evening,
Would the controller in question work on HO scale slot cars? I live in the USA and several of us were wondering this. Your controller looks to be a nice piece of equipment but we here in the states are unfamiliar with this unit. I would like to hook this into an AFX/Racemasters plastic track running the standard 12V. From what I have read this controller will support from 9V-24V. Any information you can provide would be helpful for us to choose the right controller.

Cheers,
Xence

Xence,

In principle there should be no problem to using the SCP-1 with HO provided the wiring is 'positive' with the current cartridge; however Ihave no direct experience or feedback yet on this subject

Kind regards
Maurizio

Here is the manufacturer in the UK.
http://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/


Thanks for the link.

Xence, Thanks for emailing them.

The Slot-It unit is a PWM (pulse width modulation) based controller. PWM based controllers don't have a lot of positive history in HO racing, with the now defunct Parma EC being the last one that attempted to enter the field and failed due to various reasons that may have little to do with the speed control technique.

The PWM technique is a cost effective and well proven in larger motors but there are some concerns that smaller motors are prone to overheating with PWM control. The reasons for this include the relatively low frequency of the PWM circuitry in these controllers and the low rotational inertia of HO sized motors. PWM basically delivers a stream of pulses at varying duty cycles to the motor. Simply put, it turns the motor on and off very quickly to modulate motor RPM. On larger motors the rotational inertia of the motor smooths these cycles out because the motor RPM stays more constant between pulses. Recall that motor current is inversely proportional to motor RPM, so the more the motor slows down between pulses the more current flow when the motor is pulsed on again. More current means more heat. To offset some of this effect the PWM switching frequency can be increased. However, higher frequency components are more expensive and if cost is a factor and larger scales are the primary target (as is the case with the Slot-It) then the circuitry may not be optimal for HO.

Another concern is the fact that the high frequency components of the PWM pulses will result in some efficiency loss due to inductive reactance of the motor windings. This generates additional heat. To combat this effect the PWM frequency can be reduced but then you run into the rotational inertia limitation. A reasonable compromise must be reached and the more you know about the characteristics of the motor the better compromise value you can choose. If the controller was designed for 1:32 motors it may not be so great for HO. Only one way to find out ... testing.

My gut feeling is that the Slot-It controller will work fine for many HO cars, especially ones that do not tend to suffer from heat related issues when driven by pure analog control. On the higher end of the scale, say Modified, RO, and Unlimited, the PWM control may be a concern. But for these types of cars the current limit of the Slot-It would probably preclude the use of the controller in those applications anyway.

After reading the points made by afxtoo (thank you by the way) I'm going to have to find another controller instead of the slot.it. I think I'm kind of stuck though. Recently I acquired from Mking 3 controllers at a real reasonable price I thought. 2 professor motor that I paid I think a total of $50 for the pair and 1 other that cost me like $100. All 3 of these controllers are used. The clear white one that I spent the most on is such a phenomenal controller it ain't funny. Does exactly what I need it to and it only has 2 wires instead of 3 like most of them do. The 2 pm's I bought are so twitchy that I can't even use them without de-slotting. I couldn't tell you the model numbers or anything. The blue controller looks exactly like what Slott V has pictured with the 8 or so small adjustment knobs. I have absolutely no idea what to do with this and at this point I'm so frustrated that I could chew nails. Micyou3 and I are supposed to get together over the weekend to see if we can figure out what needs to be done but all I can really say at this point is HELP!!!!

I am not adverse to spending $150 on a controller but, like most people, I don't want to blow a wad of cash if I don't have to. I might try to get a hold of mking again and see if maybe I can get another one of those real high end controllers like he sent me the first time. As I said I am just really frustrated with the PM controllers. Way too twitchy for my taste.

Cheers,
Xence

The main issue with diode based controllers, like the older PMs, is the fact that full control current flows through the wiper button and contacts. This tends to cause some arcing on the wiper surface and create a deposit that must be periodically cleaned off. The transistor controllers only send a fraction of the full control flow through the wiper circuit. This avoids the arcing issue and reduces resistance based losses in the entire electrical circuitry that's in controller handle. As ugly and ungainly as the power transistor dongles are, at least they tend to be better electrically (less power loss) than a controller with all of the circuitry in the controller handle.

Check out the PMTR2056 12v-19v $99.95 Professor Motor. Scroll down to bottom you will see it

Now here's another question. Concerning the above mentioned controller I saw the picture of it but is it adjustable at all or is it non-adjustable? If I'm going to thunk down $100 I would like to get at least some sort of small adjustment.

One other question. Our tracks are wired for positive polarity, correct?

Cheers,
Xence

To adjust the sensitivity of the Professor Motor controller, you can use the eight (?) control knobs at the top of the controller. Start by opening all of the knobs so that they do not make contact. Then, to adjust the sensitivity, turn one knob at a time unitl it makes contact and you get the trigger feel that you desire.
If the controller is extremely sensitive, all of the adjustment knobs are probably making contact and need to be backed out.

Thanks Walt,

I'm going to have to try that when I go home because no kidding I was so frustrated last night I wanted to whip that thing against the wall.

I know that I have all of the knobs turned in and after reading your post I'm sure this is part of what's causing my problems.

I might not explain what I would like to know correctly but here goes: If the controller is in my right hand the little knobs are facing me. For each knob (going from right to left) I adjust these all the way out and then turn them in from there and if I'm adjusting the farthest right knob, that adjusts the lowest speed of the car, correct? Then the knob to the farthest left adjusts the top end of the car? If this is the case and I can get it working right then this might be the way to go, just get a few PM controllers and go from there.

If this works I'll have to ask about getting different colored controllers so they match each lane. Good stuff.

Basically, the knobs represent the throttle position. Closest to the handle would be the OFF position, or BRAKE position. Farthest from the handle is wide open thottle (WOT).

You don't need to unscrew the knobs very far, but just enought to back them off from the closed position.

With ALL knobs closed, you will have a "touchy" throttle; you will have lots of power exiting corners when you give it gas. This may not be desirable for stock chassis's, except for maybe a well tuned SG+.

If you back off the first 2 or 3 knobs closest to the OFF position, you will have less LOW power exiting corners and giving it gas. In other words, you will more "Sensitivity" and the car won't fish tail as easily.

Now for the other end: if you back off the last 2 knobs closest to the ON position, you will be taking off some of the braking, allowing the car to COAST more before turns, when you let off the gas. However, I rarely mess with the last 2 knobs.

All the knobs between the first and last knobs just give you more adjustment and control. If I was to run a stock Tyco chassis with a fat hard body, I would probably back off ALL the knobs at least one turn, then start screwing them IN as I got better working with the handling of the car.

Hope this helps. ;)

-Scott

Slott V,

I can't even tell you how much that helps me. As I said in my earlier post I was about ready to whip that thing against a wall last night I was so frustrated. I knew those posts did something but what that something was was beyond me. I'll definitely be playing around with this tonight using the method you've described here.

Also concerning the SLOT.IT thing. I've emailed back and forth several times with the people there and I'm awaing another reply now. Our tracks are using positive polarity right? That was one of the questions I was asked. I am pretty sure they are but I am not absolutely sure.

Ya after I bought the Ruddock, I tried to push the PM controller on one of the members of my group that insists on stock Parma's for just about everything. He has about 4 of them with different resistors he has used for the past 15 years. After a couple of laps he yanked the wires and said "gimme that Parma back boy!" :drunk: He didn't like it either. :p

I guess it's not for everyone. :cool:

And I'm not completely sure about the knob adjustment at the WOT end. I think it helps braking. I do know it doesn't diminish WOT power if you back off the last one or two knobs so I'm not completely sure on how those knobs affect your control. The braking effect of this gun (PM2059 "Silver Series") is minimal to begin with. At least in my opinion. :confused:

So I've been reading the PDF file on the Slot.It controller on the Professor Motor website, and there is one area I don't understand and find false if you ask me:

"How does the SCP-1 protect your chassis?"

"With most electronic controllers, when the power is removed from the track, at the end of a heat, the car suddenly loses any type of braking. This means that if...power is cut when you are full throttle just before a hard braking hairpin, the car will take off and and potentially damage itself. We have seen it happen.

The SCP-1 braking system senses the power is cut and activates the braking system for approx 1 second."

I have never heard of this situation where the car takes off when power is cut, or loses braking ability altogether. Is this true? I would think the car shorts the rails for brakes no matter if there is power to the track or not. As long as the controller is hooked to the brake post, the momentum of the car itself generates reverse power through the arm and shorts the rails for braking, regardless of power in the track, no? :confused:

Slott V,

Do you know if the adjusting methods for the PM you describe above wotk if your not using the brake wire?

I would guess for the brake adjustment part the answer would be no, but how about the sensitivity adjustment?

Slott V,

Do you know if the adjusting methods for the PM you describe above wotk if your not using the brake wire?

I would guess for the brake adjustment part the answer would be no, but how about the sensitivity adjustment?Hmmm, can't tell you. I know if you don't hook up the brake wire on other electronic guns, the car will go WOT as soon as you touch the trigger so I never tried. I could try it tonight and let you know.

I have run it at another members track who does NOT have brake wires (2 post set up) and it seemed the sensitivity still worked, but his track isn't wired correctly. There is a difference between not using the brake wire on a "3 post" track and not using the brake wire on "2 post" tracks. The wiring set ups are different to begin with.

A nice thing about the PM controller is I get the yellow LED in the gun if the track polarity is wrong instead of blowing a fuse/breaker. I have to flip the axle in my cars to get the correct polarity/direction on his track.

The loss of dynamic braking occurs because track power is cut when the controller is not sitting on the brake band. The brake circuit is not engaged because you did not release the trigger. Back emf is still generated but dynamic braking is not involved because there is not a complete circuit for current to flow through. The only thing that slows the car is the natural braking of the car, which is a factor of the drag created by the motor and traction magnets, friction in the drive train, and parasitic losses in the motor.

I have never seen this effect in HO cars, but I imagine if you had a really loose larger scale car with a ton of roll you may see this happen.

Well after going home last night and really playing around with the adjustment knobs on my PM controller I believe I'm going to sell that thing. There's nothing wrong with it but it just does not work the way I want it to. I have another one as well that I believe I'm going to sell as well. Both are PM's, I don't know what model number either one is but if you go to the previous page Slott V has a picture of the Blue one with the 8 knobs and the other one is red and has no knobs whatsoever. I'm going to post something in our swap/trade/sell category here as I know this is the wrong forum for this. Wanted to keep people abreast of what became of my controller fight.

Cheers,
Xence

I believe our HO tracks are wired negative polarity(don't ask me why):confused: