Can Novak rezap rotors? If so, how about an exchange program for rotors?

By the time you have shipping involved you would be better off buying one.

I was thing about sending more than one or two back at a time. I have at least five and with other local racers I am sure that number would be alot higher. Mass mailing...lol

Just wondering does Novak zap rotors before packaging?

I don't think they zap the rotors but eventually someone will come up with a way to do that. Do you know the rotors are bad?

The ones I have replaced have been checked on a Zubak meter and the numbers where at least -200 lower than a new one.

I'm sure they purchase them magnetized.

There already is a way to magnetize them. Purchase a capacitive discharge magnetizer for thousands and then have fixturing made for a thousand more.

Not too cost effective considering a rotor is $30.

The ones I have replaced have been checked on a Zubak meter and the numbers where at least -200 lower than a new one.

But what exactly does that mean?
It's a reference number, I know, but what does it equate to
in say, percentage?

Is -200, 5% less? 18%? 1%?
Is it like 5watts? 1? 10? :confused:

...

I'd give somebody around $10.00 shipped for a couple of those "Not So Good" rotors, I still have bonded rotors in 2 of my motors.

...

I'd give somebody around $10.00 shipped for a couple of those "Not So Good" rotors, I still have bonded rotors in 2 of my motors.
We don't zap rotors. When we remanufacture returned motors for our replacement program, we always install new rotors. I'm not sure what happens to the rotors we remove, but come visit sometime and we'll send you home with a bag of slightly-used rotors. ;)

All rotors are built to a tolerance so individual rotors will measure within that tolerance. I'm not sure a +/- 200 would show a measurable performance difference---I'll check with the engineers.

Thanks for the info NovakTwo.

You're probably talking 17-18 %. I've heard of good rotors measure 1225-1250. Once in a while you'll hear of a HOTTER one!



But what exactly does that mean?
It's a reference number, I know, but what does it equate to
in say, percentage?

Is -200, 5% less? 18%? 1%?
Is it like 5watts? 1? 10? :confused:

We don't zap rotors. When we remanufacture returned motors for our replacement program, we always install new rotors. I'm not sure what happens to the rotors we remove, but come visit sometime and we'll send you home with a bag of slightly-used rotors. ;)

All rotors are built to a tolerance so individual rotors will measure within that tolerance. I'm not sure a +/- 200 would show a measurable performance difference---I'll check with the engineers.

200 points does make a difference..on the Zubie Meter...on the track it appears to be after the 3 minute mark in an oval race that you really see it.....

JW Housley

I have not seen any on track difference from one rotor to the next aside from maybe a gear change. I have rotors that measure 1160 on the Speed Meter. I have some that measure 1260. The difference on the track is about a tooth. From what I have seen and tested, 100 points on the meter is about a 600rpm difference at 5 volts. However, the lower reading rotor needed to be geared lower. I have taken the two rotors and run them back to back. I reduced the motor timing a hair to offset the difference and geared the same. It seemed to run the same on the track.

Enough about zapping the rotors and lets highjack this thread from my buddy JSJ and talk about what the best bearings money can buy for these motors cause the stock bearings don't last and neither do the ceramics that are readily available. Don't get me wrong they don't fall apart they just aren't as smooth as I would like and if you have a gritty bearing you have more heat and less speed!

novak2,

I'm hoping to be able to get down there and do just that before too long... I don't get down that far south too often. (200 miles NORTH or so)

about the closest I get is when I get down to Bending Corners carpet track in ORANGE a couple times a year...but the shop would be closed on those days.

The Rotor I Qual 3rd With In 10.5 At The Greeneville Brl Was A 920. The Best I Had. The Only Difference Was The 1st And 2nd Man Was A Little Smoother.
MAYBE A 1250 WOULDVE GAVE ME THAT EXTRA FEW TENTHS.

Some of the meters rarely see 1000 and some see numbers in the 1300 range on the same rotors so I don't think you can tell anything by comparing different meters or atleast certain batches of the meters.

Enough about zapping the rotors and lets highjack this thread from my buddy JSJ and talk about what the best bearings money can buy for these motors cause the stock bearings don't last and neither do the ceramics that are readily available. Don't get me wrong they don't fall apart they just aren't as smooth as I would like and if you have a gritty bearing you have more heat and less speed!

Brian no problem on the highjack. That is an interesting questions about bearings. What is the best bearings for replacement?