I am going to build the controls for the driver stations this weekend and was wondering if there are any "options" that I should include? I am going to wire up the standard fused 3 post power connections as well as an XLR jack. Also a switch for direction. Is there anything else that I might want to consider adding? I was thinking about individual power switches since I have kids that might "touch" the posts on a lane nobody might be using. I've also seen where people install a small section of straight track, power it at the end and put a "scuffing pad" at the end so they can scuff or clean their tires. I might add this along with a switch to power it on/off when needed. Here's a pic of the driver station tables I'm working with. Any thoughts and opinions appreciated. Thank you.

Ace,

Here is a very good link that will give you good explanations, pictures and even ideas of how you want to do your own drivers stations!! I used project boxes from Radio Shack to make mine and they turned out pretty nice. http://www.citizensoldier.org/driversstations101.html

Good Luck,
Tom

Cup holder, cigarette lighter, fuzzy dice, and some kind of bobble head doll. :thumbsup:

Sorry. Just in a smart arse mood lately. :devil:

I put track direction switches on my previous stations, but am going to leave them out on my next track, and just have a single overall direction switch. I never found a need to have cars running in opposite directions, although with your kids, they might find that fun.

Put a 100 ohm pot on your brake lead

Put a 100 ohm pot on your brake lead

Is there a specific reason for the value given? I'm not familiar with the braking circuit.

I put track direction switches on my previous stations, but am going to leave them out on my next track, and just have a single overall direction switch. I never found a need to have cars running in opposite directions, although with your kids, they might find that fun.

That actually sounds like a LOT of fun. It would be nice from time to time to run my track the other, just freshen things up a bit.

That actually sounds like a LOT of fun. It would be nice from time to time to run my track the other, just freshen things up a bit.

Reversing direction is an easy way to change things up. I just think a single switch that controls all lanes fits the bill, as opposed to individual lane control at each station. The only times we ever ran cars in opposing directions was by error. But, I could see kids wanting to do that, hoping for the fiery head-on collision.

Brake on/off switches at each station are another thing I currently have, but will probably skip on the next track.

That actually sounds like a LOT of fun. It would be nice from time to time to run my track the other, just freshen things up a bit.

Going uphill through the corckscrew and onto the over pass sounds interesting Marty, although it will change the launch trajectory in both azimuth and direction...Even better I'm imagining coming the other way through the super sweeper and onto the big chute.
:thumbsup:

In today's modular world, there's all sorts of cool doodads to use for driver's stations. This is how I did the last ones I built:

http://images.yuku.com/image/pjpeg/dc515b4577f5c99bce657abb6d375e3f5b072cc.jpg

You could just as easily use a 4 or 6 plug "blank" and add or remove or re-arrange things as needed, so long as it fits in the inserts.

Is there a specific reason for the value given? I'm not familiar with the braking circuit.


Again, go to this link and it will explain the braking circuit:

http://www.citizensoldier.org/howbrakeswork.html

Matter of fact, go thru that whole site and click on every "highlighted blue" spot and you will find out alot of good slot car info.

Good Luck,
Tom

Again, go to this link and it will explain the braking circuit:

http://www.citizensoldier.org/howbrakeswork.html

Matter of fact, go thru that whole site and click on every "highlighted blue" spot and you will find out alot of good slot car info.

Good Luck,
Tom

thanks, great site. I coudn't look at it earlier. It's a blocked site from my desk computer at work.

I would put a variable resistor for coast. To put a little power to the rails if desired so the car won't slow as quickly if desired. You could also use it to control a a driverless car to race against if you want.

I like the idea of the scuff pads. Putting one at each station is convenient.

Another option would be to put a single scuff pad station where everyone could have access to it. It would be nice to have one on/near your workbench, so when you are working on cars, it is right at hand, and this same one could be used by others during a race.

The same pot can be used for Coast or Adjustable brakes,wire it into a DPDT switch,so that one way of the switch turns the variable resistor on for the coast circuit,and the opposite way turns on the brake circuit,you want to make sure the opposite circuit is turned off from the one you're using,having coast applied to the brake circuit isn't all that effective

Reversing direction is an easy way to change things up. I just think a single switch that controls all lanes fits the bill, as opposed to individual lane control at each station. The only times we ever ran cars in opposing directions was by error.


One of the guys in our group did this, and was threatening to win all the races by going back and forth over the timer by flicking the switch on and off :confused:

He never did it, but still won all the races (it was his home track!). :cool:

Cheers

Richard :wave:

That actually sounds like a LOT of fun. It would be nice from time to time to run my track the other, just freshen things up a bit.

Want to really freshen things up? Race in one direction for part of the session then reverse for the rest. :freak:

:lol: rr

Three great and comprehensive articles on Phillipe Marchand's site.
Cheap and easy adjustable power supply
http://homepage.mac.com/pmarchand/cheap_and_easy_adjustable.htm
Complete Driver's Station Made Easy
http://homepage.mac.com/pmarchand/Driver_Station.htm
Simplified Driver's Station
http://homepage.mac.com/pmarchand/Simpler_Driver_Station.htm

I'm about to order the parts for his Adjustable Power Supply, so I can use basic controllers, but still be able to adjust low-end-control vs. top speed for different cars. The 1-pole 12-position rotary switch he mentions is no longer available at AllElectronics, but Mouser Electronics still has it.
-- D

Three great and comprehensive articles on Phillipe Marchand's site.
Cheap and easy adjustable power supply
http://homepage.mac.com/pmarchand/cheap_and_easy_adjustable.htm
Complete Driver's Station Made Easy
http://homepage.mac.com/pmarchand/Driver_Station.htm
Simplified Driver's Station
http://homepage.mac.com/pmarchand/Simpler_Driver_Station.htm

I'm about to order the parts for his Adjustable Power Supply, so I can use basic controllers, but still be able to adjust low-end-control vs. top speed for different cars. The 1-pole 12-position rotary switch he mentions is no longer available at AllElectronics, but Mouser Electronics still has it.
-- D

Lucky for me, I've been able to source all the parts to make independant power supplies for free from some of our vendors at work. "Lab samples" if you will ;)

Going uphill through the corckscrew and onto the over pass sounds interesting Marty, although it will change the launch trajectory in both azimuth and direction...Even better I'm imagining coming the other way through the super sweeper and onto the big chute.
:thumbsup:

Yeah, I need Mike King trying to find new ways to launch off the track and into the other 3 cars running. :rolleyes:

hey buddy, your the one who didnt want a "flat" track :)

im just using the terrain to my advantage :)

Nerf Hoop! Gotta accessorize!

Mount it on the back wall 2 ft to the right of the poster somewhere between 5 or 6 ft up. Add a piece of flexible drain pipe for an automatic car return to the yellow (King) lane.

Probably pull the whole thing off for 10 bux and Mike wouldnt have to move.

Aces... please do yourself a huge favor and don't do a drivers station with the posts sticking out. That's an antiquated and crude approach that has no redeeming qualities whatsoever. Don't care how many have done it or still do it, it's simply a bad design. The connection posts should be below the surface of the drivers station such that you have to reach through 1" holes with the alligator clips to hookup the controller. The surface of the drivers station should be flush with nothing sticking out to catch hands or short out across conductive parts of cars, controllers, or tools. I can send you a detailed drawing of what you should do if you can't figure out what I'm talking about.

You probably won't like this advice, but with young kids being primary users of your track I would not provide hookups for brakes - for now. You can wire for them but don't expose the brake connector until the kids are older. There are a few very good reasons for omitting the brake connector at this point in time.

First of all, the red brake hookup is connected to the common terminal on the power supply. The white hookup is connected to the positive terminal on the power supply. Anything that connects these two connectors together will be subjected to the full power supply voltage and current. This includes children's fingers and misconnected controllers. From a shock hazard standpoint, as little as 100 milliamps can be lethal under the right conditions. With a 10-20 amp power supply, the "right conditions" margin widens considerably. From a controller damage standpoint, the #1 reason, by an overwhelmingly huge margin, for controllers being burned up are misconnection at the brake connector. Sure you can fuse the supply and brake wires but unless you use a trivially small fuse or breaker the controller may be toast before the fuse even blows. Without a brake connection the potential for controller damage is near zero.

Finally, most cars don't need brakes. Anything with traction magnets doesn't need brakes. TJets like brakes sometimes but kids tend to not like TJets as much as magnet cars.

You're in charge of what you want to do with your track. But if you are going to take the time to do it right for the long haul then think about the quality of the finished product and always be aware of safety related issues when kids are involved.

Agreed "Too" and also.

Recessed terminals are good practice and common sense!

You need three connections...need it to be easy to hook up...dependable...and never short out...

We use three prong electrical outlets.....

http://www.electricianfinder.us/images/Outlet1.gif

hook up a male to you three wire cord and bam!....

Hot screw to power...

White screw to track

Ground to brake

Easy...damn near bullet proof...and best of all...CHEAP.

The best set up is a "switch outlet combo".....you can then use the switch for brakes/no brakes ...

I like the idea Crimnick, and I think that might be why Aces listed one connection as being an XLR - to get a quick plug-in set-up for all 3 wires.

However, with the kids in the house, I think he has to stay away from something that looks like it should be plugged into a 120v wall outlet.

I agree with AFX's points, but I still think a 1" hole, a post, and aligator clips are old school, and we can get a little bit more technology into the connections, especially if you anticipate that all the racers on your track (family/friends) are going to be using your controllers anyway.

Maybe have an adaptor or two available for the rare occassion when someone knocks on your door and has their own wand.

Aces... please do yourself a huge favor and don't do a drivers station with the posts sticking out. That's an antiquated and crude approach that has no redeeming qualities whatsoever. Don't care how many have done it or still do it, it's simply a bad design. The connection posts should be below the surface of the drivers station such that you have to reach through 1" holes with the alligator clips to hookup the controller. The surface of the drivers station should be flush with nothing sticking out to catch hands or short out across conductive parts of cars, controllers, or tools. I can send you a detailed drawing of what you should do if you can't figure out what I'm talking about.

You probably won't like this advice, but with young kids being primary users of your track I would not provide hookups for brakes - for now. You can wire for them but don't expose the brake connector until the kids are older. There are a few very good reasons for omitting the brake connector at this point in time.

First of all, the red brake hookup is connected to the common terminal on the power supply. The white hookup is connected to the positive terminal on the power supply. Anything that connects these two connectors together will be subjected to the full power supply voltage and current. This includes children's fingers and misconnected controllers. From a shock hazard standpoint, as little as 100 milliamps can be lethal under the right conditions. With a 10-20 amp power supply, the "right conditions" margin widens considerably. From a controller damage standpoint, the #1 reason, by an overwhelmingly huge margin, for controllers being burned up are misconnection at the brake connector. Sure you can fuse the supply and brake wires but unless you use a trivially small fuse or breaker the controller may be toast before the fuse even blows. Without a brake connection the potential for controller damage is near zero.

Finally, most cars don't need brakes. Anything with traction magnets doesn't need brakes. TJets like brakes sometimes but kids tend to not like TJets as much as magnet cars.

You're in charge of what you want to do with your track. But if you are going to take the time to do it right for the long haul then think about the quality of the finished product and always be aware of safety related issues when kids are involved.

Definetely no posts. To me that seems ridiculous. It's a huge sfety concern for me especially having kids. I ill install recessed posts of some sort as well as female banana plugs,as well as XLR (I used to be a tech for a prosound audio company, so I can get them cheap). I will put a switch between each and make it selectable to the driver. Also, I will wire for brakes, as some might want this feature. They will also be selectable and variable.

Providing a keyed, one way pluggable non-standard hookup mechanism is viable if and only if you have total control over the total population of controllers that ever get connected to your track. Providing clunky adapters to accommodate standard hookups, i.e. alligator clips, is at best a non-optimal compromise situation.

Putting standard electrical household electrical plugs on the end of a slot controller is an old school trick dating back to the 1960s. It was a bad idea then and it's a bad idea now. The very notion of placing a standard household 2-prong or 3-prong electrical plug on the end of a slot car controller sends shivers up my spine. I know it is well intentioned and I have raced on tracks that are wired that way. But it's a horrible idea. I shutter to think what would happen if one of those controllers ever got plugged into a 120 VAC household electrical outlet by a kid or a dumbass. There is a very good reason for having standard, application specific plugs and sockets on electrical equipment. Putting a standard household electrical plug on a slot car controller violates all common sense and reason at every conceivable level.

If you are inclined to go down the route of using a non standard, keyed connection setup, use something that has zero probability for misuse.

Putting standard electrical household electrical plugs on the end of a slot controller is an old school trick dating back to the 1960s. It was a bad idea then and it's a bad idea now. The very notion of placing a standard household 2-prong or 3-prong electrical plug on the end of a slot car controller sends shivers up my spine. I know it is well intentioned and I have raced on tracks that are wired that way. But it's a horrible idea. I shutter to think what would happen if one of those controllers ever got plugged into a 120 VAC household electrical outlet by a kid or a dumbass. There is a very good reason for having standard, application specific plugs and sockets on electrical equipment. Putting a standard household electrical plug on a slot car controller violates all common sense and reason at every conceivable level.

I totally agree with this; here in Perth we use a combination of 1/4" phono plugs and XLR connectors. I still have to test whether plugging my guitar in will make the cars go faster ... :devil:

Richard

For the record, I was not supporting the use of 120V outlets for controllers.

On my old track, I used banana plugs, but I will probably go with something different on my new track, because I must admit, one time I did plug my controller into the speaker outputs on my stereo, in an attempt to control the volume. It didn't work. :)

Providing a keyed, one way pluggable non-standard hookup mechanism is viable if and only if you have total control over the total population of controllers that ever get connected to your track. Providing clunky adapters to accommodate standard hookups, i.e. alligator clips, is at best a non-optimal compromise situation.

Putting standard electrical household electrical plugs on the end of a slot controller is an old school trick dating back to the 1960s. It was a bad idea then and it's a bad idea now. The very notion of placing a standard household 2-prong or 3-prong electrical plug on the end of a slot car controller sends shivers up my spine. I know it is well intentioned and I have raced on tracks that are wired that way. But it's a horrible idea. I shutter to think what would happen if one of those controllers ever got plugged into a 120 VAC household electrical outlet by a kid or a dumbass. There is a very good reason for having standard, application specific plugs and sockets on electrical equipment. Putting a standard household electrical plug on a slot car controller violates all common sense and reason at every conceivable level.

If you are inclined to go down the route of using a non standard, keyed connection setup, use something that has zero probability for misuse.

Well pardon the hell out of me and everyone I know that does it... :cool:

SHEESH! :freak:

You may be horrified to know that I also have an oven in my house... :eek:

A simple "hey dude if your kids are idiots, or your friends are drunks, you may not want to use standard outlets" would have sufficed...

No need to attack people smart enough not to plug a slot car controller into a WALL outlet.... ;)

I cant help who you hang out with... :p

So let me add the disclaimer:

"IF your kids are idiots, or your friends are drunks, you may not want to use standard outlets" :tongue:

And you may be a redneck... :D






...

Well pardon the hell out of me and everyone I know that does it...

Russ, why are you interpreting my comments about the merits of a non standard controller hookup method as a value judgment against the people who do it? My statements are no different than saying it's not a good idea to reuse a brand labeled peanut butter jar for storing acetone or paint thinner. Even if the probability of abuse is very low because you lock the jar in your workshop the potential damage is very high should misuse ever occur. When the label not longer matches the contents and kids are involved anything can happen.

Extrapolating my evaluation beyond what I specifically stated is completely unwarranted. This is critical analysis 101, critique the concept, never the person. I never said anything personal and don't know why it would be interpreted as such.

Once you move to a non standard hookup you will need adapters for other people to use their controllers on your track and you will need adapters to use your controllers on other people's tracks. If those limitations don't apply then you can do anything you want. But I'd strongly advise against doing anything that gets into a mislabeling scenario, which is the case with using an electrical plug on a slot car controller.

Lots of 3 prong electrical connectors that won't plug into a normal household outlet,go to your local hardware store and look in their electrical section.
AFX2,you don't run many fast cars do you,i only race R/O cars and i use a massive amount of brakes,so yes boys brakes do apply to magnet cars too,contary to some opinions listed.

Russ, why are you interpreting my comments about the merits of a non standard controller hookup method as a value judgment against the people who do it? My statements are no different than saying it's not a good idea to reuse a brand labeled peanut butter jar for storing acetone or paint thinner. Even if the probability of abuse is very low because you lock the jar in your workshop the potential damage is very high should misuse ever occur. When the label not longer matches the contents and kids are involved anything can happen.

Extrapolating my evaluation beyond what I specifically stated is completely unwarranted. This is critical analysis 101, critique the concept, never the person. I never said anything personal and don't know why it would be interpreted as such.

Once you move to a non standard hookup you will need adapters for other people to use their controllers on your track and you will need adapters to use your controllers on other people's tracks. If those limitations don't apply then you can do anything you want. But I'd strongly advise against doing anything that gets into a mislabeling scenario, which is the case with using an electrical plug on a slot car controller.

My post was meant to be tongue and cheek.. ;)

I'm not personally offended...

All our racers are adults....and we have adaptor boxes all made up for visiting clubs...

What ever style...I recommend using some type of polarized plug....eliminates shorts...

We're running SS storms and G3's....and some of us use a ton of brakes as well...

:wave:

Race on...

Whew, I feel much better now. I never meant to offend anyone, especially you and the group of guys you race with. I totally agree that using a polarized connection method is the only way to go if you are using brakes and need to prevent hookup related failures. That's why I'd rather forgo brakes than leave them in place in any unpolarized setup with younger kids using the track.

I think 3-place XLR connectors are a nice solution for a closed system.

Nobodies mentioned fusing the brake circuit,it's a good idea to add a 3 amp fuse to your brake circuit,as it's a direct feed back to the common (negative) side of your power supply

Here's an alligator top post, quick fix that might work for you. To help with electrical short outs, take a plastic parts bin container, available in most hardware sections at K-Mart, Wal-mart, etc. Run it across a table saw at your desired depth, and you have plastic wall protedtion for your alligator clips. You can even glue the top open. No more bending over to hook up. Not to offend anyone as the keyhole idea, under the driver's station is probably the safest method, but this also may work for you, as you can keep an eye on things. Ever start a race and notice your still on the starting line because your not hooked up, I know I have!!! Just an idea from Hilltop...!!! RM

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/kwikdeals/DSC02338.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/kwikdeals/DSC02339.jpg

Now this is SLICK!
And it is one of the reasons I love this place..*sniff*
Thanks RM!
Scott
Here's an alligator top post, quick fix that might work for you. To help with electrical short outs, take a plastic parts bin container, available in most hardware sections at K-Mart, Wal-mart, etc. Run it across a table saw at your desired depth, and you have plastic wall protedtion for your alligator clips. You can even glue the top open. No more bending over to hook up. Not to offend anyone as the keyhole idea, under the driver's station is probably the safest method, but this also may work for you, as you can keep an eye on things. Ever start a race and notice your still on the starting line because your not hooked up, I know I have!!! Just an idea from Hilltop...!!! RM

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/kwikdeals/DSC02338.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/kwikdeals/DSC02339.jpg

Agreed Nodz!

Very creative...nice and neat.

That's a decent workaround if you're stuck with posts that stick out. Avoiding the sticking out post design in the first place is a better and cleaner option.

Here's a conceptual drawing of a modular drivers station panel that avoids the sticky outy pokey screw problem. This panel can be fabricated very easily as a unit and mounted horizontally, vertically, or at an angle in your drivers station. Using Plexiglas and back painting the lane color would be very, very, slick. Using a translucent paint and installing lighting underneath, and having it come on when track power is applied, would be something to behold. Lots of variations are possible on this theme.

Please excuse the crudity of the drawing.

Oh man... counter sunk...recessed? Is that like something from the third dimension where ya have to use tools and measure? :rolleyes:

I 'spose it's ballanced and blue printed with port match and polish as well.

Yer killing me here "Too".

So evidently my 24 volt golfcart battery charger power supply with ford dimmer switch for voltage drop all wadded up on an end table under the track like a pile of spaghetti will not pass inspection? Works great, but addmittedly on first look it would give the UL guy a ventricular infarction. :p

Nice design! Thanx I'll steal it. Love your stuff man. In reading your posts I inadvertantly learn things. How dare you learn me when I'm not paying "uh-ten-shun"! ;)

That's a decent workaround if you're stuck with posts that stick out. Avoiding the sticking out post design in the first place is a better and cleaner option.

Here's a conceptual drawing of a modular drivers station panel that avoids the sticky outy pokey screw problem. This panel can be fabricated very easily as a unit and mounted horizontally, vertically, or at an angle in your drivers station. Using Plexiglas and back painting the lane color would be very, very, slick. Using a translucent paint and installing lighting underneath, and having it come on when track power is applied, would be something to behold. Lots of variations are possible on this theme.

Please excuse the crudity of the drawing.

Well done, very simple fabrication, wouldn't take much time either. I'll give it a try. I've decided not to go with all the doohickeys on the driver station panel. Just the fused connections. It seems to make more sense that way. I will have independant variable power to each lane at the flip of a switch, but that will be located within a sub-panel under the table. That way, all power will be even for racing, and if the kids want to play, I can switch them over and lower the power to their respective lane.

COME ON AFXTOO!! You're making me look like a moron (not that it's all that hard to do) hehe. That diagram you have is absolutely excellent. I did something very similar on my table but I made 2 mistakes. I used a spade bit to drill into the side of my table so I could do what you're saying there but instead of putting the contact poles, I guess you call them, vertical I made the mistake of putting them horizontal but they are pointing outwards towards the driver so that all you really have to hook onto is the end of the pole. I can fix this though. What you put in that drawing just helped me out immensely. I'm going home tonight to fix my table so I can have a screw, or a post, or whatever running like you have it. That will make life so much simpler and the heck of a lot easier to hook into. :)

The other mistake that I made, because I didn't know there was a standard, was that I have my colors backwards. You have white/black/red. I put mine red/black/white. Only bad thing is that I used a magic marker to mark this so fixing it would be a pain.

Thanks AFXToo your diagram is a big help to me.

Cheers,
Xence

As long white and red are not next to each other it doesn't really matter, although most pro tracks use the colors as shown. You can also offset the red hole/hookup a bit from the other two to give more of a visual clue to the user that it is "special."

I'm working on finding and testing a wiring diagram for a fuse blown indicator. The cool setup is to use a 2-color LED (red/green) and have it lit green when the fuse is good and red when the fuse is blown. You can also use a DC circuit breaker, the kind designed for marine applications, in lieu of the fuse and indicator. These breakers have somewhat of a visual indicator that they are tripped but I find it to be way too subtle. A glowing red LED is much more obvious. Having the green LED indication is also a good indicator that track power is applied.

This design is fairly compact, so any space left over at the drivers station is available for your normal complement of race paraphernalia like tape roll, Dremel, oil, extra rear end setups, cup holder, and controller stowage. Some folks include spring loaded grabbers for docking controllers, but they stick out, and in the spirit of maintaining smoothicity I would instead incorporate a sunken tray/pan or cubby of some sort to hold the controller.

As long white and red are not next to each other it doesn't really matter, although most pro tracks use the colors as shown. You can also offset the red hole/hookup a bit from the other two to give more of a visual clue to the user that it is "special."

I'm working on finding and testing a wiring diagram for a fuse blown indicator. The cool setup is to use a 2-color LED (red/green) and have it lit green when the fuse is good and red when the fuse is blown. You can also use a DC circuit breaker, the kind designed for marine applications, in lieu of the fuse and indicator. These breakers have somewhat of a visual indicator that they are tripped but I find it to be way too subtle. A glowing red LED is much more obvious. Having the green LED indication is also a good indicator that track power is applied.

This design is fairly compact, so any space left over at the drivers station is available for your normal complement of race paraphernalia like tape roll, Dremel, oil, extra rear end setups, cup holder, and controller stowage. Some folks include spring loaded grabbers for docking controllers, but they stick out, and in the spirit of maintaining smoothicity I would instead incorporate a sunken tray/pan or cubby of some sort to hold the controller.

Could you not use a normally open relay energized by the main after the fuse? Wire the green led after the fuse direct. Once the fuse goes, green led turns off, the relay closes and power is supplied to the red led, just pick off power in front of the fuse for the red led. Makes sense in my head, but probably not in this post.

Use a #1157 automotive bulb as your blown fuse indicator it's easy.Solder a wire to the power contact and one to the ground contact of the lightbulb (the 2 little silver nubs on the bottom of the bulb),then solder one wire on each side of the fuse,if the fuse is blown the lightbulb lights up as soon as you squeeze the controller.The power has to go through the bulb if the fuse is blown,and it'll light-up as soon as you squeeze the controller and feed power to the car,easy and cheap,and you can find the blown fuse in the dark.

There are a number of viable schemes for the fuse blown indicator and/or buzzer. It's a fairly common requirement. I prefer a design that does not supply any power to the drivers station in the event of a blown fuse. However you do it, the end result will be greatly appreciated by users of your track.

Awww, no, no. Wait a minute. I keep redesigning my drivers' stations as I read more and more on the forum. I added a brake terminal and brake adjuster, even though I don't currently have controllers with brakes. I changed around the order of the terminals (sorry, Too, I'm not burying them) and isolated the brake terminal to reduce shorting risk. I changed the order of sections on the stereo plug. I grumbled and griped, but added a fuse and fuseholder. Whaaaat? Now I gotta put in a relay, two LEDs and a 3 volt LED power source to tell me when the fuse is blown?

Fuhgeddaboudit. I can make an educated guess about when the fuse is blown - the liddle cars don't go.

Grumble, gripe.

(I'll probably end up doing it.) :rolleyes:

-- D

DSlot you sound like me. The more I read on this forum the more I realize I don't know. Really cool to have other fairly knowledgeable people here.

I don't have a fuse or an LED... yet, but I will. I'm kinda really enjoying working on my table. The more I read the more I want to do. I saw AcesFull's table and got idea's. I then saw AfxToo's diagram's from yesterday.... I already started implementing it.

In the month or so since I put my table up it has gotten so much smoother, quieter, nicer on the eye.... you get the idea. I also get a lot of good information from micyou3 as we hang out at least 2 or 3 times a month just to race, yap, drink coffee (ok well I drink most of the coffee) and do whatever else comes to our minds concerning slot cars. Cool to have others to collaborate with concerning this little hobby of ours. :)

Cheers,
Xence

Here's pic's of my stations.
I use rebar tie wire, six pieces from the top and six from the bottom. Counter sunk using a spade bit.
There are four stations. Each station has all four lanes available to be connected to.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/HODriverStationsPicI.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/HO111507VII.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/HO111507VIII.jpg

Or after boring out the hole with a spade or forsner bit, you could just insert a threaded screw in the center to attach the alligator clips to. This way at least the tip of the screws are not sticking out from the sides of the table.