Just wondering, I have to lube up my old tjet and I rigged up an oiler for it, has anyone ever tried it on their Aurora or Auto world cars? Dave :wave:

I've heard good things about it. Good to know there's another option when I run out....

I hate to say this, sounds like I'm selling the stuff. My dad used it since the 50's with engine rebuilds etc, stopped the rings from freezing, I 've used it to free up lifters that were tapping, I've used it in small engine 2 and 4 stroke gas tanks it helps disolve dirt from the nozzle in the carb if it's not too bad, an assembly lube on 2 strokes as well. Now I'm going to try it on my ivntage t-jet. Havn't had time yet but I'll yet you guys know. I figured SOMEONE would have tried it by now. :p

Ok, nobody really hopped on this so I'll take a swat at it. Been there done that in the late 60's! God I'm old!

Marvel Mystery oil is and ADDITIVE! Mixes with fuel to produce the desired effect. What you get in the groovy looking can is a concentrated, albeit refined oil. This desired effect occurs in a hugely diluted and metered formula.

It does what it sez too!

However Slotcars dont have rings, lifters, valve guides, seats and faces, or carbs. Marvel is engineered to operate in a knock and pound environment...perhaps the exact opposite of the Swiss Watch T-jet gear rack where the desired feel is freewheeling and featherlight!

Certainly it is not out of the question that one could dilute marvel into a serviceable consistency if it was the last can of oil on earth and you were jonezin' for some slot action...but why?... when there are so many other good lubricants out there.

Like any mechanical contraption they have their lube points...BUT Straight Marvel will only serve to gum the gear rack up; most assuredly after storage.

Best bet is a light synthetic, or any one of the specidically labeled products like Free Jet or Liquid Gold...what have you.

I vote NO on marvel... which is not to say that I dont have an open can in the shop. I work on a lot of dinosaurs! But I wouldnt bog a slot car down with it.

I defer to the expert, that would be Bill. Low friction (clean) and low viscosity lubrication is in order. Call me overly cautious if you like, but original old red or labelle's plastic compatible lightweight used sparingly do just fine. Keep it off the brushes!

Well, here goes, wish I read this sooner, I did all four of our AW T-Jets. They actually are running better for now believe it or not. I think we'll just run the living daylights out of them and then I'll clean them up and get T-Jet oil from that website that was mentioned (It's the remake of the original Aurora oil.) Any other input would be great. I already had the mm oil, made an oiler and it seemed kind of thin in my fingers and thought it would be a good idea. I really appreciate the input. I'll let you know how bad I messed up if it gets gummed up real bad. Thanks again Dave :hat:

THUNDER OIL!!! THATS IT, THAT'S WHAT I HAVE TO GET!!! :hat:

I love the oil question. I am with Bill on this one. Marvel is for loosing items that are stuck by carbon build up or tight metal. It is solvent based additive. Solvent and plastic sometimes means :drunk:
Here is what I use on my Neo Storm ball bearings and all.Never seized one up yet... . and on Tjet fray racers also and does wonders."Slick 50" oil additive Creates like a bearing lube between the metal parts or plastic.
Give it a try on your next oild change. :cool:
Feels good to sneak in the backdoor...lol :thumbsup:

You mean just regular Slick 50 oil additive that you add to your crankcase? I never thought of that. I wonder if Lucas oil or any others would work as well. If you say Slick 50 works maybey I will go out, dump my mm oil back in the big bottle and pour it in my little bottle. Does anyone have an idea on making a homemade micro oiler? I am using a passload nail gun oil bottle, it drops little drops of oil. But a little more presision would be nice. The closest hobby store is 50 miles from our home, nothing around here, hense the homemade thing. Thanks again for the suggestions.

And again, just regular Slick 50 oil additive? Thanks, Dave :thumbsup:

I searched the forum and found some good tips for oilers. Even advanced auto parts has one. Someone recommended ATF fluid, someone else uses a WD-40 pen. Any thoughts on this? Sorry for all the questions. I also found some others that use MM oil mixed with other oils so hopefully I didn't do too much damage. Thanks again for the advise. Dave :wave:

When my buddy was setting up a small train layout (during one of his 5 minute attention spans), I remember going with him to the Home Depot and finding a small oil bottle with a needle applicator. The bottle is refillable. It was hanging on a rack by a register at the time.

Joe

Thanks for the tip I'll be looking somewhere for one. I'm wondering what everyone else uses. these are not high performance Fray's or anything. just box stock AW TJets I have fun with my kids with. We only have room for a door track right now. One day we want huge straights etc etc, but room does not not allow for it at the moment.
I'm wondering about that slick 50, or even lucas oil additive. Thanks again, Dave

We use a fine needle oiler you can get from Wizzard Performance. Or I found them on Ebay from the SlotFather. Oil Bottle (http://cgi.ebay.com/Empty-Fluid-Bottles-for-All-Slot-Cars-3-Pcs_W0QQitemZ330156296175QQihZ014QQcategoryZ2619QQ rdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQtrksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcm dZViewItem)
He also has the Black Gold drops the Wizzard sells.
The needle is fine so you don't over oil. :thumbsup:

Nice to see ya back 'Buster. Drop me a line sometime!

Hi I race with a couple of guys competitivly. I use Pro-Long oil additive stright from the bottle. I belive it is a conductive type additive and it won't matter if a little gets on the comutator or brushes. I raced radio control electric cars for 25 years. We use conductive oil on the comutator before each race. Look at some R/C sites. http://www.team-paradigm.com/page.php?category=Lubricants They sell what is called "com. drops".

Hey, that's good to know, I havn't been able to get over to the autoparts store yet, I've used that product once in an old Isuzu Trooper. Thanks

For cars that use braid for pickups, the Marvel Mystery Oil works great as a braid lube, as does ATF, but I wouldn't use it for lubricating an engine or axles. I would rather use a 0W synthetic like Mobil one with maybe a dash of Prolong additive just for effect.

Mike R

I would be careful about using Mobil One or any synthetic oil as it will creep to the hottest spot which is the commutator/brushes. Use the Pro Long straight from the bottle. You can even put it on the commutator as comm.drops. I use it on armature and axle bushings.

Well, I broke down and ordered a bottle of Thunder oil, everyone says a lot of good things about it. So far, the Marvel Mystery oil is holding up well, no adverse effects. Hey, it was worth a try right???? :thumbsup:

*snip*
The needle is fine so you don't over oil. :thumbsup:
You have never seen me oil a slotcar have you? :jest:
I could over oil with a hypodermic needle...:rolleyes:

But meanwhile, back to the oil debate:
Where does someone buy 0w Mobile 1?
Scott

I've used Marvel oil for years on all different scales of cars. Now you all got me thinking differently about this.

Try Napa Scott

You have never seen me oil a slotcar have you? :jest:
I could over oil with a hypodermic needle...:rolleyes:

But meanwhile, back to the oil debate:
Where does someone buy 0w Mobile 1?
Scott

Seeing as how I work in a car dealership it's easy for me to get, but the Dodge Sprinter and Crossfire vehicles use Mobil 1 0W-20 synthetic. You can usually find it at Wal Mart, but if they are out you can get it at Pep Boys, AutoZone, Napa, etc.

Mike R

Does this mean your thinking about using it on your Slot Cars?

I've used Marvel oil for years on all different scales of cars. Now you all got me thinking differently about this.

Yes I've been using Marvel oil on my slot cars for years. It always seemed to work well, but if theres something better I'd use it. What is this free jet oil I heat about?

I'm glad to hear someone has used Marvel for a long time with good results. I oiled almost every car with it, then got worried. I ordered a bottle of Thunder Oil from the web. They ship fast and it looks good, havn't tried it yet but will soon. Marvel oil is used in all kinds of things, even air tools. Although they have their own air tool oil. Have fun, Dave :thumbsup:

This is my first post here. I just stumbled upon this site a few days ago, you guys really caught my attention with the oil posting. I have a little story to tell you about my tjet racing and oil.

We race what the vhors guys call CLASSIC tjets. These are box stock tjets with small slip on silicones, polished and blueprinted. No mods other than deburring...

I have a four lane 62' lock and joiner track in my cellar. The neihbor kid has been kicking my butt. At the end of the 14' straight he has me by 18". I clean my car, re-oil, and its the same. He tells me its my oil.... nah, couldnt be. He says "clean the car and let me oil it". Now he beats me by 3 car lengths. No kidding. We repeated this several times. He wont tell me what hes using..

Since then, I have managed to get some of his wonder oil. I did some testing of my own. I am still testing, but the gap is narrowing.

So far, my best combo is 25% Mobil 1, 75% Break Free CLP gun oil.

I have more to try, but this is promising. I may make 2 batches, a lighter one for gears, a slightly heavier one for the comm.

So I finally broke out my out T-Jet and used the new Thunder Oil. I put two new skinny tires on the back (it had original 60's vintage) and WOW :woohoo: this thing NEVER ran like this, both of my sons were impressed as well. It's good stuff. But for some reason, it reminds me of Marvel Mystery oil, it's red, and kind of smells like it, just not as strong. But boy does it work great!!! Dave :wave:

I think I read somewhere once that the original red oil is a very heavy weight transmission oil. Aurora picked it because it was heavy enough to stay put and it didnt react with the plastic parts. Its good oil, but the new synthetics are faster.

If anyone doesnt believe this, go to Walmart and buy a can of Break Free gun oil. It has a yellow and black label. Spray some into a small container and lube your gears sparingly with a needle. You wont believe the difference.

It is very very thin, so it creeps everywhere. For a short run, its great. For a longer run, you will need more viscosity. Not much more, just a little bit. That is why I mix it with Mobil 1.

One thing that I have noticed is that if your chassis is not free and broken in, the oils have less of an effect. The difference is much more obvious on chassis that have lapped gears and polished shafts and axles. The better running the chassis is, the more you need a good oil.

its not that good for the cars but its great for track cleaning. it works as good as rail zip and a lot cheaper too. i got this tip from a known slot car shop in canton ohio a few years back he cleans about 6 tracks from ho to 1/24 scale a bottle of marvel lasts about a year and we race weekly. he made a beleiver out of me. it dont take much , just dapen a rag and wipe the track.:dude