Fresno, CA - Associated Press International

Press Release

After a nice breakfast of ham and eggs with bisquits and gravy, the first pilot holes for a scale version of the old Laguna Seca Raceway from the 1960's were drilled. In just over an hour the basic framing and border boards were up and the layout was awaiting it's legs.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-707S.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-708S.jpg

The 6' by 6' layout weighs 88 lbs complete with the legs, is framed by 2X4's and the base is 3/4" OSB partical plywood. Bordering the layout base are 1" x 12" primed shelving boards, which will help contain the 11 inches of elevation change planned for the layout.

Seriously, this is the first step to building my layout. I've put off starting this layout because of things going on in my life. This is my way of getting back to racing as it was meant to be. I need to run to Home Depot one more time to get the legs and then spend a few hours cleaning up my spare bedroom so I can get it standing up. The base level will be just over 3' since the sides are another foot higher.

Over the next month I'll be adding layers of styrofoam building up my racing surface. I'll be posting the progress as it goes from here. Already Smokey, the Russian Gray cat, has been investigating what he will undoubtedly consider a new play area.

Yeah now that looks a lot bigger than I first thought about it when you posted about it. 6X6 is 36 square feet, where a 4X8 is only 32 square feet, so you're having to make up space on buying styrofoam sheets that are 4X8. Since not every sheet will cover 36 sq. ft. then you won't have to buy 12 of them to get your elevation I guess. Looks like a waterbed frame to me.

As expected the rest of the pieces needed for the track came today. I laid it out flat on the floor to make sure I had everything I needed:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-711S.jpg

The pit road will be dead lanes with the turns shaped to blend in with the hot lanes. There will be about a foot of elevation change from the straight between turn 1 and 2 and the corkscrew. I still need to clean out my spare room and get the base set up, then the messy part of laying out the foam begins.

Why the hell are they doing the carpet now? They should have done it when you moved in.

What you should do is take all of those priority mail boxes you have and use them to build your general elevations. Fill them with expanding insulation or newspaper then build your styrofoam layers on top of that to get the shapes that you want. Fill in the gaps under the sheeting with expanding foam as you go. You could be done in a week instead of a month if you went that route, each 1" elevation will cost you $9 if you do it strictly with foam boards. That's over $100 on just the strofoam landscaping. I'm sure you'd rather have $100 in spectators and trees.

You have a lot of open area from the looks of the track, is that going to all be landscaped? Like parking areas, refreshments, etc? Also, maybe you should consider making it into the current era layout with the infield section just to use that area. I'd just paint it green and be done with it, if you put lifelike grass on it you're always going to have that stuff everywhere. Texture it by spraying it with green enamel paint and then use a thick nap roller and just roll it all grass green. When it gets damaged it'll be easier to fix too.

They had to wait until the new year, something about budgets, yadda, yadda, yadda. I'm getting new carpet, who cares. This one looks like evidence from an episode of CSI Miami.

I may do the box thing with some areas but not the whole thing. I think using expanding foam insulation inside the boxes would be better strength wise. I need first to establish elevations where the track runs, then build into it from the vacant areas. I'm still not entirely ruling out something like paper machet or even a fiberglass shell that is fully supported from below by styrofoam.

And the lifelike grass was an idea but I see your point, I'll have little flecks of grass everywhere for years to come. I'll use several shades of green and sort of dirt color next to the track, and tan in the run off areas. Easy touch ups when the cars scratch it all up.

Something I need to address with the rapid elevation drop at the corkscrew is chassis rub on the track. T-jets sit a little higher than most slot cars so I need to keep it in mind the other chassis style that may someday race here. From turn 2 to the corkscrew is a 11" climb, from the top of the corkscrew to turn 6 you'll lose 5", turn 6 to turn 8 drops another 3". I'm going to try to bank turns 6 and 7 to make it a bit more highspeed. Not much I can do with banking the corkscrew, and it will be wicked.

Not much I can do with banking the corkscrew, and it will be wicked.

Pete,

Maybe use shims, if you want some banking on the screw?

http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/39079/2315905190099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2315905190099980462qTeYGl)

Scarf, there'll be some pitch but not necessarily banking. My concern is that since these are 6" diameter hairpins I'm going to make it impossible to get through there with the down slope as it is, I'd just like to make it a little easier.

After about 4 hours the layout is taking shape. It's very ugly so no pictures right now, but so far I've used 4 sheets of styrofoam, about a dozen boxes and a gallon of elmers glue. Not an exaggeration with the glue, a gallon has been used. I have the track elevations set to within half an inch, which is the thickness of the final piece of foam board I have to overlay all of the under workings. I've pretty much resigned myself to a thin shell of paper mache just because the foam is harder to work with than I had thought. I'd like to keep the weight down to less than 150 lbs so I'm sacrificing some realism in some places.

Martin, I just read the part about putting the extension back in and no, there's no way now that I've started the landscaping. It'll be fine, it may take some time before I post progress pictures but it's already taking some shape.

Alrighty then, I know:

1. It is ugly just yet, but stick around and it will get better.

B. Expanding foam is a wonderful tool that I'm just now beginning to appreciate. It also makes a tasty midnight treat with cinnimon and sugar.

And most important... IT IS NOT DONE!.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-713S.jpg

I got up early this morning after staying up until almost midnight last night working on this thing. I laid out the track again to see where I needed to build it up more under the track itself. So far it's about where I want it to be. I then hooked it up to power and discovered a few problem areas that I have immediately taken care of.

1. The corkscrew had some of it's pitch removed. In about 50 laps with a T-Jet I crashed 40 times, even using a very low power setting. The drop off was the culprit so it's not as steep now. I think meerly having it represented is enough at this point, I want the racing to be better than the crashing. I ran 50 more laps without the steep pitch and got through with relatively good speed.

2. The turn 6 complex has been radically changed to an opening apex corner. The schematic is 6" 1/8th, 9" 1/8th into a 12" 1/8th. This was done instead of trying to bank it, this allows a really good drive out of the corner heading into the second criss-cross track.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-714S.jpg

3. Turn 8 was also changed into a tightening apex, a 9" 1/4 into a 6" 1/8th slows the cars down for a quick finish line charge.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-715S.jpg

Total elevation changes so far are 9" and I have a couple more layers of foam in the middle, then one more 1/8" thick layer over all the entire layout that the track will lay down into. Over that will be one think layer of paper mache just to make for a smooth crack free surface.

The layout flexs with movement, something I can't get rid of but I'm having to compensate for because it'll be moved from time to time. Surface painting will help avoid some of the cracks but everytime it is moved I'll have fault lines to fix. This is supposed to be a close representative of a real world track, and I think it'll be close enough that those familiar with Laguna Seca will recognise it once it is done.

BTW AfxTwo, your method of using a wire brush to shape the styrofoam has worked the best so far, thanks!!

The real corkscrew has a dogleg to the right before it goes left, is there a way to model that in? And how about making turn 7 a larger diameter since that's a fast exit from turn 6. That way you can carry more speed through that section. Since you're so close to the sidewalls are you still doing the drive in bridge?

Also I finally saw that you're using that lap counter track, have you run t-jets through it yet? I don't think they'll have enough to trip it, either that or you'll be breaking guide pins.

Forget about paper mache, it cracks and breaks apart like an eggshell. You'd be better off just filling in and repainting any fault lines that appear. Just texture the sheeting after you shape it with spray enamel/lacquers, fill in the cracks with expanding foam or water based spackle and paint it.

I don't know about changing the configuration of the corkscrew, I'm having a hard enough time now with the track being right to the outside of the layout. I'll look into making a wider sweep with turn 7, no promises. I haven't run anything through that lap counter yet but I'll look into it tonight. I have an extra 15" so if I need to sub that piece out I can. I'm starting to get a bit frustrated with the foam boards, building elevations is taking a lot more glue and I'm winding up with a lot more gapping than I wanted. I doubt that I'll have that overpass into the infield at this point, I'm running out of money for supplies and I have a lot more to do. I figured 3 months to complete this thing, that'll just about be the timetable too.

Told you guys you'd get bored...

Last few shots until Monday. I'm almost out of glue again (2nd gallon) but I still have 1 complete sheet of foam plus some left. I have one can of expanding foam and will buy one more tomorrow for some problem areas. But using the wire BBQ brush has been working nicely on contouring the edges.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-719S.jpg

I've been able to keep the mess down to just a good vacuming off the track except for some glue leaking out of the bottom of the track. Screw it, I get new carpeting in two weeks. The next couple of days I'm going to shape the foam and recess the track surface. I'll make the decisions about the surface this coming week as well.

Boring? Heck no - It's captivating!

Why so much glue? How much does a gallon of glue weigh? What's on the videotapes? Where are you using the expanding foam?

Keep the updates coming!

Styrofoam tends to suck the glue up, and this is a very big layout. The expanding foam is being used to fill gaps between and under sheets that curve and to help hold the foam in place as well. The video tapes are to add weight to the sheets to make sure they are in full contact with their glued side. I also use toothpicks to secure them in place while they dry.

The shaping is about 80% complete. I have one more can of gap filling I need to get and some water based spackel for a couple of problem areas. This is where we are right now:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-721S.jpg

The steps on the far end are where the corkscrew comes down into turn 6 and will be planed out better shortly. I should be ready to sink the track starting tomorrow.

Pete I talked to the guy that built the big road course down here and he said he used liquid starch and those blue mechanics paper towels to mache his layout and it worked great. The starch is cheap, less than the elmers glue is and the towels are about a buck fifty a roll. Once you sink the track you should mache it out with the track in place to build up the berms around it. Are you going to sink the pit lane too?

I don't think they'll have enough to trip it, either that or you'll be breaking guide pins..

I wouldn't worry too much about the counter. I've had one in every layout since 2001... never broke a guide pin yet and from what I can tell, tjets got plenty of oomf to get through (that's all I run). You can also open up the lap counter from the bottom and monkey with the spring if the clicker thingie seems too stiff. The first one I had was a little too robust and that's what I did. The one I have now came new with less tension in it, so it was used right out of the box. I guess they vary... who woulda thunk a mass produced piece of plastic could have quality control issues? From China too? ...lol

Looking good Pete. :thumbsup: .... Carry on ! ! ..... nuther

tjd, I'll have to check it, I still haven't run a TJ through it yet, I lost a rear tire on the one I have and don't have a spare. I ran an old anemic magna-traction through it without a problem though.

Martin I plan to do a mache covering, there's just too much inconsistancy with the foam. Someone told me about the liquid starch already at work and I'll try the paper towel trick too. The track will be glued then soldered together in 4 sections, each wired with a jumper. That way if I need to get under it for a problem I can pretty much figure out which section I need to pull up. The biggest problem so far has been the corkscrew.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-724S.jpg

It's hard to tell with everything being so white but from the top of the corkscrew to where the track exits the picture at the bottom is a 6" elevation change. The corner has an opening apex and a slight bank which may wind up being the fastest corner on the circuit. When I mache the track it'll be built up to the track edge, I have a plan for that too.

Right now it's spackling with some vinyl spackle, test fitting the track and adjusting it in the places needed. Once that's done I'll take about a week off until the next payday.

Last evening I got a visit from half a dozen racers that I used to race the oval track with, even Martin and his brother Simon drove up from Bakersfield to see this thing. Most of the guys stayed until the wee hours of the morning....remember these are car salesmen that had to be back on the lot this morning at 8AM so it was nice for them to spend the time.

Last summer I was contracted to build bodies for SCSRA and the CCRA, mostly dirt late models that some of you also got your hands on. These are also the guys that commissioned the AMG Eagle Indy body I did for Magna-Tractions that was used in the mini-Indy in May, a lot of those went out internationally. These are the same guys that contracted those bodies, and now they've contracted Laguna Seca for a series of races to begin in March.

I built this track to be a T-Jet specific track. It's not designed to be a fast track, more of a drivers track where car set up and skill are needed more than speed. I had planned to race other classes of cars here but at a lower power setting. The first "official" race will be a SCSRA event using X-Tractions though, sporting the 2007 AMG Eagle bodies that were handed out for their series. As it stands right now 12 cars will be entered, 13 if you count the one I have that I need to work on. Since this is a two-lane track they're having to create a program for the event but it will be a modification of the round robin they've used for 20 years or so.

They have also asked about the possibility of having a hard body Can-Am series over the summer and that sounds like something I'm going to be very much up for. In looking at buying cars I kept coming back to the older Can Am cars, so I'm sure in my research I'll include at least one in my collection. But the shift from it being a T-Jet circuit to a X-Traction/Magna-Traction curcuit seems to have begun. I may do a proxy race over the summer just to pad the entry list once racing starts.

Here's the latest. The track is now sunk into the foam and I need to work on the run-off area's a little.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/LagunaSeca.jpg

"My name is Eric Rios, and I want to thank Martin for allowing me access to this forum through his account."

"First let me congratulate Peter on being accepted to the SCSRA. As egotistical as this may sound the Southern California Scale Racing Association doesn’t just allow any track to be sanctioned. We have two categories, the first being tracks over 50 feet per lap length, the second for those track being less than 50 feet, which Peter’s track falls under. Any track accepted by the SCSRA must be based on a real-world race course and have at least three defining features that identify it as such."

"Peter’s scale model of Laguna Seca either met or exceeded our requirements for scale representation and features. Regarding the layout itself it is well constructed with being transported in mind. The tracks features we looked at were representative elevation changes similar to Laguna Seca, general layout and The Corkscrew turn complex. These three features qualified the course for sanctioning. However we also have a minimum requirement beyond those specific features which were also met. Those being having a reliable and available lap counting and qualifying timing system, power adequate to operate all lanes without a power drop or surge of more than 1.5vdc with all lanes in operation, and an enclosure that will prevent de-slotted cars from dropping to the ground in most accident cases."

"In our two categories of racing we allow traction magnet cars (hence known as magnet cars) on those track over 50’ per lap only. A traction magnet car, by our rules definition, is a car with a separate magnet provided specifically for traction and no other function. This indicates that a vintage Aurora G-Plus car would not be a traction magnet car, although a Tomy Super G-Plus would be. This includes any of the current and upcoming redesigned Thunderjet 500 and X-Traction cars being produced with a neo magnet providing traction. Cars that had traction magnets as part of their original equipment and have had them been removed count as a non-traction magnet car. The BSRT G-Jet specifically is a non-traction magnet car."

"Peter’s track will see sanctioned racing with non-magnet cars even though it could very well qualify for magnet status simply because it is a fast, well thought out course. Thursday evening as part of our examination a variety of cars were run on the still uncompleted course; they were the X-Traction chassis, Vintage G-Plus chassis, Tyco 440 and 440X2 chassis, Tomy Turbo, Super G-Plus and SRT chassis and the upgraded BSRT G-Jet chassis. In all but one case we found that the track suited all cars, the one detractor was a car that had aftermarket tires of less than .440 in diameter which drug the track surface through the entry into The Corkscrew. In virtually all of the cases the cars found the “lower” part of the track, from the exit of Turn 8 all the way through the top of the hill just before The Corkscrew to be flat out and wide open, with the slightest bit of drifting for non-magnet cars through Turn 3. This amounts to a straightaway of extraordinary length of about 14' for a layout just 6’X6’."

"In closing I’d like to express my gratitude to Peter for allowing our presence with such short notice; he was an excellent host as always. Laguna Seca will host its first SCSRA event the second weekend in March, as already announced it will be an X-Traction open wheel event featuring his styled body for that car. It may be the first race but certainly won’t be the last."

Sincerely,
Eric R. Rios, Chairman
Southern California Scale Racing Association.

I wanted to post Eric's messege before I posted my own. All I can say is wow. I raced two cars, a G-Plus and a Super G-Plus, and you can pretty much flat foot it from the exit of turn 8 all the way to the top of the hill, and you get amazing speed up the hill too. Something about the cross track just before turn 3 slows you down enough that you can fly through there too. But slow down you must because it's tough getting woahed down to get through the corkscrew without crashing. I watched the guys with the XT cars go off the first few times, then they learned to slow down. Just about every Magna-traction and X-traction drifted through turns 1, 2 and 3 but not so much that they were in danger of spinning out. And none of the pictures yet posted take the whole thing in. From the low spot between turns 1 and 2 to the top of the corkscrew is at least 10" in elevation change, very nice. Then from the corkscrew to turn 7 the track drops 6". Turn 7 to turn 8 is fairly level but the front stretch drops another 4" through turn 1. I can just imagine once it is finished with trees and buildings how this thing will look.

Martin, welcome to the light.. Leave the dark side and join with those of the light......LOL....


Coach!

Martin, welcome to the light.. Leave the dark side and join with those of the light......LOL....


Coach!


Coach, like Pete I started racing the bigger scales but I kept some of my HO stuff. I just didn't bring my pancake cars this time. I need to get some stuff to rebuild the cars. But even at 12 volts magnet cars have a good time on this course despite it being considered a small layout. The 18" radius corners in 1 and 2, and the 12" in 3 just lend themselves to providing some great speed. I can remember watching CART race this configuration in the mid 1980's and they were very fast in the same sections.

The combination of the uphill, a slight bank in those coners and the wide radius was designed from the beginning since this track lacks a proper high speed straight. Pancake motor cars were lapping in the 6 second to 7 second range, stock magnet cars were running just under 5 seconds per lap. Simon had a modified Tomy Tubo with a ALMS Panoz body that clicked off a 3.35 second lap and except for the corkscrew and turn 8 was pretty much wide open. But he also hung up in the corkscrew several times because of his neo traction magnet making rail contact and just not wanting to let go. Mega-downforce sometimes has its drawbacks. About the best stock car laps were run by the new Tomy SRT Chapperal 2D and SRT GT-40's, in the mid 5 second per lap range.

From the Laguna Seca historical site, this is the track from 1960.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/old-track.jpg

There was a lake in the infield that was filled in by 1966, and the vehicle bridge had not been built yet. But the pit lane and pit area were about the same. This is a good shot of the elevation changes and where the old growth of trees are around the uphill section. My layout will have at least 20 and probably 25 trees along the hill section. In some of the pictures I've seen there were even grape vines that I've considered doing.

I've also found some cheap HO scale figures, unpainted. I'm planning on 72 standing and 72 sitting either on the hillsides or in bleachers yet to be built. For $8.00 for a bag of 72 it's a decent price. The cars will be all diecasts that I've been getting from thrift stores over the last month or so for a quarter a piece. I still need some emergency equipment but that is in the works.

Buildings will be ordered in three weeks, there will be a scoring tower, a large shop, refreshment stand, a rusty quonsut hut with some grounds keeping equipment around it, scattered out-houses, a medical clinic and the scaffolds I've been building. There won't be any spectator bridges by request from the SCSRA, they don't want anything blocking a marshal's arm from reaching a de-slotted car. But I will be painting in the worn pathways in the hillside as part of the landscaping.

After a couple of days off over the weekend I've been working on Laguna Seca again. I decided not to have a slotted pit lane, instead I got a piece of foam board and marked out the area as shown in the 1960 altitude shot. Then I traced that onto the foam and set to sink it into the foam and try to level it out some.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-734S.jpg

This gives me an area of about 20" along the straightaway and about 15" deep. It'll have the entrance off the track before turn 8 and re-enter the track just before the lap counter. It's flat and very close to level but I'll have to build up the paper mache to the edge on the downhill side. There will be 7 buildings of various size either on or just off the pit area and it will be painted to resemble concrete when finished. I do plan a victory lane but it may be a seperate area.

The next step is to completely mask the track and lay it into the recess that I carved into the foam already. The track will be glued on the bottom using that cool expanding foam I used elsewhere, with tape to keep it from actually contacting the track. This will fill any gaps under the track and before it sets I'll tape the track down so it sits into the recess properly, and gives me my desired elevation changes with under track support.

After the foam dries I'll set to doing the paper mache work. I'll work all the way up to the edge of the track, with the tape to protect the track from contact with the mache. There are a number of run-off areas that will be paper mache the depth of the track, this was designed to be a bit tougher area than just the single layer of mache over foam.

Like I said before the mache will be those nice mechanics paper towels, the blue ones, dipped in liquid starch. This was an inexpensive and very durable way to mache relayed to me by a co-worker that the community center. She even showed me how tough two layers of newspaper was with the starch, so I'll be OK doing it this way. My concern as it always has been is weight. Once the water evaporates it will not be as heavy, like all the glue I had to use. Right now we're hovering at 96 lbs for the entire layout with the track. My goal weight is 120 lbs or less.

Pete,

How does the paper mache process you are using compare to that plaster-cloth that some people use? Is it basically the same thing, at a lower cost?

I'm also curious to see the lil people you purchased, and how you go about painting them.

36 sq. ft. of plaster cloth would cost about $12 for a single layer, the paper mache would cost $9 for the starch (1 gallon) and $1.50 for each roll of paper towels, and I would need 2 for a single layer. The plaster would be a much harder surface but it would also be three times the weight. Since (I hope) I don't need the surface to be extremely hard the mache is a better deal from the weight and economics aspect.

Now, I have done paper mache before....in the 3rd grade. I haven't done anything since then and I haven't ever tried this starch deal. I'm going to do a one square area to see how it conforms and how fast it will set up. From there I'll decide on doing the rest with the starch or go back to hydrocal or something heavier.

I wonder how a water based duct mastic would work if "painted" on directly over the foam? It's probably somewhere between paper mache and plaster in terms of weight but probably much more durable than paper mache. Since it is a water based product you could probably mix a bit of your "ground" color latex paint in with it to get the color closer to what you'll want. You could also try thinning it out a bit to reduce the thickness and weight of the skin coat. You can buy it in caulking tubes and in pails so experimenting with it may be worthwhile.

AFX, interesting idea. I'll check into that in the AM. My problem is also flexibility, something the plaster won't be, and the mache may not be. But using a paper towel with fibers is like adding rebar in a sense, it may give it more durability like the plaster cloth would be but lighter I hope. The issue with most of the stuff that adds weight is basically how heavy is it once the water evaporates. I'd love to hydrocal the crap out of this thing but I live upstairs in a small apartment where this thing might spend half it's life standing on one end against a wall somewhere. That's one of the reasons I had to make it no more than 6X6 because I'm building it in my living room and when done it's going into my spare bedroom. I have two tight turns to make and with 11" side boards and a 2X4 base I'm cutting it very close. I build a dolly with casters on it to make moving it around easier. I'm really going to hate life if I ever move and have to lug this beast down a flight of stairs.

where did u get the laguna seca logo? looks cool!

Stole it from the Laguna Seca merchandise site, it's the image of the window decal they sell online.

I got an e-mail tonight from someone in public relations, and although lengthy the point they made is that Laguna Seca, as a name, is trademarked. While they don't fully understand the impact of calling my track Laguna Seca they "would prefer that the name be changed as to avoid confusion with Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca." Yeah....like I'm going to have anyone confuse a 2.8 mile road course in Monterey with a 28' slot car track in Fresno.

I have appealed to them and explained that it's only a non-commercial slot car track, hopefully they'll be alright with that. If not, expect a name change to Laguna Fresno. Actually I like Laguna Fresno better. Hey, now I need to get on ebay and find some of those Tyco motorcycles so I can have bike races like the "other" race course.

How 'bout Lasagna Seca?? :p .... When you host a race night you could serve Italian food!! Probably make ya famous among the slot racing crowd. nd

ROFL!!! I'd have to paint a Cobra like an orange tabby cat.

That is the freakin' gayest thing I have ever heard! These guys seriously have nothing better to do than worry about what some guy names his slot car track?

Holy crap I says...... :confused:

Stole it from the Laguna Seca merchandise site, it's the image of the window decal they sell online.

I got an e-mail tonight from someone in public relations, and although lengthy the point they made is that Laguna Seca, as a name, is trademarked. While they don't fully understand the impact of calling my track Laguna Seca they "would prefer that the name be changed as to avoid confusion with Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca." Yeah....like I'm going to have anyone confuse a 2.8 mile road course in Monterey with a 28' slot car track in Fresno.

I have appealed to them and explained that it's only a non-commercial slot car track, hopefully they'll be alright with that. If not, expect a name change to Laguna Fresno. Actually I like Laguna Fresno better. Hey, now I need to get on ebay and find some of those Tyco motorcycles so I can have bike races like the "other" race course.

Pete, Carve a hole into it and pour a resin pond like the old school picture.

Can you say "Lagoon-a-Seca"?

Pete,
What brought your project to their attention?

That thought had crossed my mind also :cool: :cool: :cool:

That is the freakin' gayest thing I have ever heard!

Marty, you said a mouthful. Holy Crap is right. Since Pete's been to Laguna Seca (ooooh can I say that?)... " just about every year since 1982 "... I think it's safe to asume he didn't hop the fence and sneak in. Between the gate, food, and drink..... I'd say he's pretty much entitled to name his home non-commercial slot car track Laguna Seca (said it again) if he wants to. What this is ... is what's commonly know as your classic case of a big guy putting a bag over the head of a little guy and sock'n him in the gut. That's what this is. You mean to tell me that it's REALLY gonna cause a problem for them? REALLY?... C'mon, what are people gonna get misdirected and end up watching races at Pete's apartment instead of 1:1 races at Laguna Seca (that's 3)? Pleeez... with all that's going on in this world and at a busy place like Laguna Seca (that's 4)... People have time for this? If I was this guy/gal's boss I'd chew them out and tell them to get back to work. nd

Yeah, I sort of dropped my jaw too. You have to consider who the person was at Laguna Seca and then you'd know. I just got off the phone with someone I know at the track myself and it's been resolved: the slot car track can be known as Laguna Seca Model Raceway without any problems. Actually since he's been working with several historians from the track it should have been common knowledge he was doing it. Cripes, it's not even the current configuration!!!

As far as the lake is concerned I suggested it but by then most of the foam was being set and it was too late to add it. The modern track only has a small remnant of the original lake and it has a cool BBQ island in the middle. Maybe there's still a chance for a mud puddle inside of the short shoot between turns 1 and 2. The interesting thing is that the CSCRA has two other real world tracks, Infineon and Road Atlanta, and both of those real world courses not only helped in information Road Atlanta even contributed some really cool laser printed scale signage.

Carry on pete !! nd

Cool Martin!

Got any pictures of the other sanctioned tracks? :cool:

Martin sort of let it out of the bag, yeah we just need to keep it listed as a model raceway and we're fine. I'm not going to comment on who wrote me the email since she is part of the real track's administration, and it wouldn't be wise to bad mouth anyone at this point.

I didn't really forget the lake but I didn't have it in the original plans because in 1967 I didn't know how big it was then. I'll find a way to have it represented on the bluff just above the short shoot between 2 and 3.

Crim, I know that the Infineon track is still under construction in Delano, California. The Road Atlanta track was just completed in November and I'll see if I can get some posted. Both tracks are significantly larger scale than mine, Infineon is a 6' X 18' 4 lane and is in the current ALMS configuration. Road Atlanta is an 8' X 14' layout and will be a 2 lane.

I've done some of the paper mache work so far, I've been down with a bad back for the last two days so I'll post pictures when I get more done than just a few pieces laid out.

After a few Corona's I started feeling better...or at least I didn't notice my back as much. I started throwing some mache down and it was a lot easier than I was thinking it would be.

I'm using the blue shop paper towels so they're soaking up a lot more of the glue than I expected. I had bought four 2 quart bottles...that's 2 gallons, right? Wal-Mart sold it under the Sta-Flo lable for just under $3 a bottle. And three rolls of paper towels. As it turns out in my estimation that will be just about enough. I'm about 3/4th of the way done with all the first layer, doing the run off areas and building the berms up to the track edges. Here's some pics...

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-737S.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-739S.jpg

This is the back side of the course, turns 2 through the corkscrew, above is turn 7 and the entry into the pits. The mache runs right up to the edge of the track and is just slightly lower than the surface. This will allow the painted surface with texture to be at the level of the track.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-742S.jpg

Here's the uphill side of the track, now you can get a better idea of the elevations.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-740S.jpg

I have the front straight, lap counter area, and the entire second layer to do but I'm getting happier and happier with how it's going. The second layer will give all the mache a uniform color and smoother surface. It will also make for a good surface for whatever grass texture will be applied.

BTW, today marked one month since the project was launched, and I have maybe a month left before it's complete if all goes well with financing. It will be ready to race on in just about 2 weeks.

the slot car track can be known as Laguna Seca Model Raceway without any problems.

Thank God we got this one resolved! I'd hate to see Petey taking revenues away from the REAL raceway because people are showing up at his place due to a mistake like having his 6'x6' slot car track named the same thing.....

WHEW!!!!!! :rolleyes:

What a bunch or idiots those people must be, seriously..... they must be awfully damn bored over there. :freak:

This might be a silly question, but what is the purpose of the paper mache?

Scarf, basically to provide a stable and durable cover over the foam that I can paint and repair easier. If the foam was bare after a while chunks would be taken out from crashes and I'd be constantly repainting/texturing.

Marty, the upside would have been I could have had some pretty cool race cars show up at my house wanting to turn laps. That's still going to happen but they'll be much smaller.

I bent to popular opinion, there will be a lake in the infield. Now before some hydrologist chimes in and says the berms are not sound this is not to be correct to the real track. I know it would flood the short shoot if one failed...

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z262/FresnoPete/MVC-743S.jpg

I've done water in the past with pretty good effects. What I've used is hot glue gun sticks melted in a pan and then poured in the depression. It dries clear and pretty durable, and it's relatively inexpensive. The problem lies in what will be under the water. Since the hillside is styofoam the hot glue may melt the foam under the depression and cause it to sink. I've considered other methods and all generate some sort of curing heat. What I may have to do is get some dry ice and cool the foam before pouring the glue into place. Hot glue cools pretty quick though, but to be sure I'll do a test shot.

More than one way to skin a cat Pete. Plenty of options for pondage and whatnot. Thumb some model railrod how-to's before the store owner sez, "Dis is not a lending library!" LOL

Resins and goobers especially for modeling water are cheap enough at any hobby store. Personally I like plain ole fiberglass resin method and have seen a less toxic Matte medium technique that is very convincing.

If your worried about heat and your cauldron of molten glue why not mold it in a scrap piece to your satisfaction and french a mini module into the layout afterwards...Should be no problem to feather it in as you will be doing several scale miles of edging/contouring along the track anyway. Feathering in a little pond will "seam" like a drop in the bucket. LOL

Number one, and most importantly, moduling it on the bench will spare your back and allow you to worry the finer details with ease.

More over it will allow you to fidget it around to your liking. Cut that module in, lock 'er down with spray foam and mache the edges. Along the theme of "been there done that"; I always figured if I direct pour and hate it I'll have to carve it out anyway... so why not "cut" out the middleman and just assume your gonna change it up!

Looking forward to seeing this layout pop out when you put down the base ground tones and get the track laid. :thumbsup:

2 cents and change Pete...just an idea ....given that when I look at your new track my back starts to hurt too!

Bill I melted some glue sticks in my fondu pot and poured a tester into a shallow styrofoam depression. I had maybe a 1/2 pint of glue and no protection over the foam. Well, it's a good thing I did this over my sink because it went through 3/4" of foam in about 10 seconds. I have 4 layers of paper mache between the depression and the foam so that may help but not that much. It took 8 minutes for that small amount of glue to completely cool into a solid.

I'll take your idea under advisement Bill, I need something that won't get over 200 degrees as it cures. The glue measured 225 degrees in a pasty state, 260 degrees as a pourable liquid. I'm thinking resin but the sustained curing heat may well be a problem too.

Why don't you cut in the lake where you want it. Then lay in a base (couple layers) of aluminum foil so the edge of the foil is higher than the lake to landscaping profile. Dust some color over the foil and let dry. Pour the glue in the foil like you are pouring into a bowl. Let it cure, then trim off the excess foil sticking above the landscaping surface edges. Then do any final painting to color on the lanscaping where the lake meets the grass/dirt. Just thinking out loud.

. . . I need something that won't get over 200 degrees as it cures. The glue measured 225 degrees in a pasty state, 260 degrees as a pourable liquid. I'm thinking resin but the sustained curing heat may well be a problem too.

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/785-1211