I had a beautful, mint, o gauge hot rod... the one that looks like a gangster car. Chassis ran great, even found a source for silicone tires... an old friend and slot buddy came over and dropped the car... now there's a huge crack in the passenger side that runs down 2/3rds of the car.

any suggestions that don't include violence?

Yeah, grab one of his favorites, and drop it too ;) OK, that's probably something I'd have done when I was 6, but then again, we are talking about toys.

That sucks... I hope you can find another one just like it if it can't be repaired back to it's glory.

If it's a clean break, shouldn't be too hard to repair. A little super glue, modeler's glue, epoxy or whatever you can put your hands on. Then go ahead and put a custom paint job on her and you'll have a nice runner. Have a pic of the broken bod?

Did a similar repair on an old TJet bod that I tried to fly one day. Did the repair from the inside and threw on a coat of paint and a clearcoat, you never knew it had been broke (from the outside). :cool: rr

Uh.......? slap , slap! VJ! For factory looking plastic repairs in original colors...Try the guy at Model Murdering. I hear he's a doink but does ok work.

Whats the color VJ. Got all the chunks and bitties? LMK!

Being as how it's O guage I'll take yer first born and a first round draft pick.

Drop me a note VJ if yer in need.

I made the mistake of trying to fix it myself... I held the body together so you could see the crack, heated up a screwdriver and rubbed along the crack inside the body... it didn't work and now I have a slight melt mark, nothing bad... but do I feel stupid.

Bill, I may need your help. I;ll take pics and post them next week

OK VJ,

Happens to everyone. CA is the big nono, so actually a big bullet was dodged.

You gonna tell me what color it is ...or is it still a surprise? I'm more worried about the color match than repairing the break.

sorry Bill... it's tan

Why am I not surprised ...it's made of plastic explosive!

Should be no problem VJ. Got most variations of tan in stock. :thumbsup:

Vj's O guage bummer was a pretty serious crack. Attached only at the rear fender I busted the flapping shard the rest of the way for access.

Primarily to clean out any CA from an earlier repair attempt. Any CA interferes with the goop bonding process as it creates a barrier the solvent cant wick past. Thereby rendering the goop ineffective and weak.

Surfaces and seams were file prepped. Any chips/flake-age characteristic to tan breaks was removed and the parts are pre-fit.

Sauce was made from an early GT40 that was as close as you can get colorwise. Tan is not necessarily tan! Ya just never know 'til ya wet sand and cut it back

The big chunk was gooped along the break and bonded. Half an hour later the squeezed excess was floated out and an additional layer was added inside and out. Cutting it close along the door knob so we'll see what happens.

The remaining nibblets and chunks from the shattered grill area will be added later this week and the completed body will be set aside to cure.

Bill, you ARE the "Master"!

That is how you start?

I would be lucky if a car I did looked that good when I was finished.... lol

As usual, great job in progress Bill!

Scott

Thanks Gar and Scott.

Really it started about two years ago. At request or out of necessity I've amassed a good selection of liqiud plastic. Thankfully may folks have generously contributed scrap to the program. The true start is always cleaning/processing scrap to cook batches. Every coupla weeks I procees what I need at the time or replace stock thats been depleted. Just like 1:1 body work most of the mud ends up on the floor or is later wasted via over spray.

Having gone pert near insane using the old scratch and peck method for fixing Aurora bodies, the developement of bulk ready to use plastic opened the floodgates to productivity. In most cases I can just scrub and prep a body, grab a jar and go to work. Naturally I'm lacking some of the rarer colors, but having the basic aurora pallete on hand really expedites the start.

VJ's "Bummer" is the odd exception. There are many subtlties of tan shades so I cook it as required as with some of the rarer colors. Think of how your coffee changes color with just a dollop of creamer. So goes Aurora tan.
By rifling the tan stash I found a decent match to the lighter O guage shade. Ordinarily I dont get overly crazy with tiny shade variances in HO because the area is so small it's easy to blend off into the next panel or edge without leaving a tell. That being said the O guage is quite the contary in that it is huge by comparison and the break is right along the primary viewing angle. For those two reasons I chose to make sure repair material was as close to the parent material as possible.

Guaranteed there will be visual tell along the repair seam after wet sanding. One of two things will occur depending on the "after cut" appearance. If it's a gruesome line like ya drew it with a marker the seam will be skifed out some and re-skimmed. If the repair seam is near impercepible it will be sprayed. Regardless of how it looks after it's cut back it will have to be sprayed.

So the splicing, sectioning and prep is the easy part because it's a different dance everytime. Finish work and prepping culls/scrap is the tedious part. The actual bonding usually take only minutes.

Man, you are a pro! Thanks again for taking on this project Bill!

What Bill doesn't say is that each of those lil bottles is about 3 slot car bucks!
I admire your dedication, Bill! :thumbsup:

Yes 2.99 a jug plus any costs associated with wheelin and dealin for the scrap to fill it.
Dont even keep track any more. I just consider it a fixed cost and the price you gotta pay to play. The MT jugs are almost as valuable as the contents LOL. I often use three for every color. One to store the Base. Another to mix the glaze. A third for sprayable viscosities. I'm forever cleaning lil jugs!

Fortunately my local Hobby store owner Richard gives me 10 er 20% off on normally stocked items...god bless him!

Jims jigsaw puzzle will move into the finish work stages sometime late this week.

The big chunkola down the side has it's second skim cut back and the ghost line has pretty well faded.

Front grill chunk is installed as have the various lil niblets of tan duff.

You'll note just behind the grill bottom in the engine bay is an area that "fizzed" up. This is one of the reactions between the goop and CA I'm always ranting and whining about. Not much choice in the matter. The risk of grill or chrome damage to remove the attached tan chunk was prohibitive so it had to go in as a unit. "Danger Will Robinson!"

Not a crisis situation, ya just cut the fizzed part back and reskim til it quits wrinkling up.

After a little sanding and light glazework I'll move into 1200 to take all the minute warbles out. I couldnt be happier with the color match here...even a blind pig finds a nut on occassion.:woohoo:

you ARE DA MAN!

Amazing Bill. As always.. Sweet.

First we had the demolition man..
You the reincarnation man....Around you nothing dies...

Bill,

Seeing all those bottles of goop...Ooooooooooooh you got the goop man.
Some day I will have more goop. Just have Gray (from stripped AFX semi) for repairs, Red (some real cool, nice, talented guy sent me) and a little bit of white...tiny, tiny bit.

When you helped me figure out how to make this stuff....I drew a picture of different color goop bottles (with colored sharpies) on a piece of paper to keep my goop dreams alive. It turned into a fly swatter at the end of a long stick at work this past summer...Bam,bam,bam killed a bunch of em'.

Now that paper is embedded in my brain for the future goop that I will make. First I gotta paint a bunch of stuff and fix stuff with the gray.

Red Goop will be my first all out Goop -it- -ty- Goop project. Just need to paint a few more bodies...................ha,ha,ha...someday Bill I will get around to it. lol really! :)

Nice work on Jimmys O-Gauge body. What a sweet ride man!

Bob...zilla