i have a few packs now and i would like to find out which i should be using for racing and which are just good enough for practicing i do have a CE turbo35 so i can cycle them but i am nit quite sure how to do so. my first question is be fore you start to cycle them should the packs be fully charged or completely discharged before you start to cycle them. my second question is once you cycle the battery and you scroll through the reading at the end which numbers do i need to pay attention to and which one really don't matter.
and my third and final question is the numbers that i should pay attention to what would be an acceptable range for a race pack and at what kind of numbers should i just trash the pack any help with this would be greatly appreciated....

If i where you i would
1. cycle with a little charge (mybe 2-3volts)
2. Pay attention to the peak volts and what temp they top off at. I would also pay attention to the graph.
3. A good 4cell 4200mah battery should top out at about 6.30Volts and up depending on how old they are. I would make shure they dont exceed 130-145 degrees and check the graph to be shure the dont make sudden drops in voltage or sudden burst of voltage.

Hope this helps

Here is a link to the instructions on the CE website-
http://www.competitionelectronics.com/media-files/T35_se_op_inst.htm

You will want to start with a pack that is ready to charge. So you will want it to be discharged and equalized.

Connect both of the leads (small voltage leads, and charging ones).

The cycle will charge your pack per your charge settings, wait 15 sec then it will discharge per your discharge settings.

Once the cycle is done you can hit the data button and write down all the data. You should be able to get:
Peak chg voltage
internal res
real int res
discharge ave volts
discharge ave @ 1 volt
mAhr
mWhr
discharge time

The other thing to look at to is when your pack gets to the 240 sec mark you may want to write down the voltage. The pack with the most voltage at 240 is probably going to be your best race pack. The only problem with this is if you dont hook your charger up to a computer you have to manually watch for it.

It has been so long since I have cycled anything, but here are some numbers from on of my old 4200 packs

Dischg Time 488
Dischg Ave Volts 4.97
Charge Time 2735
Peak Charge Volts 6.06
Relative Res 50
Actual Res 6.8
Dischg Amps 30.0
Charge 1 Amps 6.0

Peak 1 Det 0.020

mAHr 4066
mWHr 20244
Dischg Ave @1V 4.99

Hope this info helps you out

Joel White

Setup
Start with a discharged battery.
Charge 1
Current - 6.0A
Peak Detect - .02V
Long Lockout - On
Number of Charges - 2

Charge 2
Current - 6.0A
Peak Detect - .01V
Delay - 120s

Discharge
Current - 35.0A
Cutoff Voltage - 3.60 or 4.00 (either or works)

Results
I like to write down the voltage at 60 second intervals through 360 seconds. I also take note of how many seconds the pack holds 5.00V. I pay attention to the voltage at 240s or 300s (depending on if I'm doing 4 or 5 minute racing), how long it holds 5.0V and the IR. Those 3 things generally determine what pack is best. I also note the discharge time and average voltage, but those I really don't care about.

What people consider "good" is relative. First of all every machine reads a little different and second ambient temperature plays a part in the readings.

Setup
Start with a discharged battery.
Charge 1
Current - 6.0A
Peak Detect - .02V
Long Lockout - On
Number of Charges - 2

Charge 2
Current - 6.0A
Peak Detect - .01V
Delay - 120s

Discharge
Current - 35.0A
Cutoff Voltage - 3.60 or 4.00 (either or works)

Results
I like to write down the voltage at 60 second intervals through 360 seconds. I also take note of how many seconds the pack holds 5.00V. I pay attention to the voltage at 240s or 300s (depending on if I'm doing 4 or 5 minute racing), how long it holds 5.0V and the IR. Those 3 things generally determine what pack is best. I also note the discharge time and average voltage, but those I really don't care about.

What people consider "good" is relative. First of all every machine reads a little different and second ambient temperature plays a part in the readings.

Man Pat you have way to much time on your hands.:jest: