Can someone tell me the best temp. to run a 3.5 motor at. I ran one for the first time this weekend and the hottest was 170 degree's. I didnt know if I should go hotter or keep it that area.

Thanks,
Mario

hi mario cant help ya but if there was a 1 in frount of the 3.5 i could

see you at the birds not going to the blast this year

brock garis

Broc good luck @ the "Birds", Happy New Year :drunk:

Brock,

Yeah no blast for me either. Thinking about going to Greenville this weekend for the BRL race. Will do! See ya at the birdies!

Mario

I Have'nt Run A 3.5 But I've Been Running The 10.5 At About 170 Degrees
That Seems To Be The About The Right Temp I Think It Would Be The Same For
All Novak Motors

With 13.5 and 10.5 motors myself and most of the guys I race with usually don't push past the 150 mark. I average about 135 to 140. I wouldn't think a 3.5 would be any different. You could always ask another person running a 3.5 motor what their temp is. If you have the same rollout as them and they come off cooler, look at your car set up.

Mario

Last year in the BRL I never had my 3.5 above 130. I guess it depends on track size. but for mos tracks we rolled less than brushed mod. At World of Hobbies we rolled at a 1.15.
I would say 170 is too hot. The speedo was usually hotter than the motor.

Jason

Can someone tell me the best temp. to run a 3.5 motor at. I ran one for the first time this weekend and the hottest was 170 degree's. I didnt know if I should go hotter or keep it that area.

Thanks,
Mario


This is right from the GTB manual:

Motor operating temperature is the ONLY
way to properly set the vehicle gearing
The motor should be 160-175°F MAX at end of run!
Check the motor’s operating
temperature after making any gearing adjustments--motors are designed to operate from 160ºF-175ºF.

I Agree With Jason,when I Started Running 10.5 My Temp Was At 140 And Was Slow ,are Track In Pittsburgh Is 170 Ft Runline Rolling Out 10.5 At 3.09
And Temps Are From 160 To One 170,13.5 Rolls Out At 3.50 And Temps Are In
The Same Range 160 To 170

Mario come run with us at rosewood its a great place to practice for the birds it has had only jack the gripper for the most part run on it and there is going to be a good crowed there this weekend probly 40 50 people.

Roman,

I thought everyone was going to the BRL race at Greenevile this weekend? I was thinking about going there, but if everyone is going somewhere else, then I better rethink about my road trip!

Let me know.
Thanks,
Mario

Dont want to take anything from a good series like the BRL just letting you know of a good place to race

I Agree With Jason,when I Started Running 10.5 My Temp Was At 140 And Was Slow ,are Track In Pittsburgh Is 170 Ft Runline Rolling Out 10.5 At 3.09
And Temps Are From 160 To One 170,13.5 Rolls Out At 3.50 And Temps Are In
The Same Range 160 To 170

Personally, I think the temperature range of 160-175, as per what Jason
mentioned, via the Novak sheet, is only part of the formula,
but not necessarily the target.
I think, and believe me, I'm no expert on this, that you need to look
at two things, not just that.
If your laptimes are actually faster with a lower rollout AND your temp
is around say 145, then I would keep that rollout, and temperature.
It isn't really going to do you any good, if you keep trying to set your
rollout to attain a target of 170, and you go slower...

Which brings me to another question..
Of those of you that are running at 160-170 deg.
did you all universally go faster compared to when you were
running 145 for example?
Did you pick up a couple of seconds on a run?

With mine, I really didn't care for the feel at a higher rollout,
and higher temperature.
It did seem lazy to me, but I have to be honest too,
I only did it in practice, not on the clock.. :rolleyes:

But then maybe I fall into the catagory of not changing mindset on
gearing from brushed to brushless, like I should, that being,
160-170 degrees seems freakin' hot! :drunk:

Mario You Got A Pm

Dan...you are correct.

I was just stating the temperature range that Novak recommends to illustrate that Mario's temp's are acceptable per Novak's standards. Thermal shutdown occurs shortly after this window.

Personally, my 13.5 is a rocket right around 135 degrees Fahrenheit and I've laid down killer runs in 17.5 with the motor hardly hitting 120 F.

10.5 seems a little different as 160 seems to be the norm from what I've seen....so it could make sense that a 3.5 could be fast a little hotter but I've never run one.

FYI.....

:thumbsup: ...................

Dan Not Trying To Rollout To Hit 170,with The 2.80 Rollout And Temp At 140
The Lap Times Were Slower Than With The Higher Rollout And The Guys
Running The 13.5 Class Are Alot Faster With The Higher Rollout,this Is A Brand New Track Just Built Over The Summer It Is Alot Bigger Than The Old
Tack,plus This Is The First Year For Me Racing After A Four Year Layoff,and
I've Never Run Brushless Before,so I'm Still Trying To Figure It Out.

I Forgot To Mention The Guy's That Run 10.5 Did Pick Up A Couple Seconds On The Clock With A Higher Rollout

I've Never Run Brushless Before,so I'm Still Trying To Figure It Out.


Yep....best thing for you to do is ask the fast guys where to start and then see what works for you. Just like with brushed, there is no "magic" rollout or motor temp.

That's What I Did,i Think It's The Driver Not The Car Hehehe!!

I've Never Run Brushless Before,so I'm Still Trying To Figure It Out.

Like a LOT of us!! :drunk:

I didnt know where to start. Last week was the first time with the brushless, so Im sure more and more races I will figure out what I need. I really appreciate the info. This brushless thing is all new to me! :freak: LOL

Mario

how many of you are using the motor freezers?

some do,some don't, me i don't

Mario,
For a 3.5 motor just gear for runtime, as you would a brushed mod, and let the temperature fall where it does. You can fine tune from there, but I doubt you will see temperatures above the reasonable operating range. Last summer at Freddies we were dumping long before we had to worry about high temperature. The motor temperature will vary depending on the track and ambient temperature.

I was just worried about hurting the rotor.... Thanks for the info.

Mario

I was just worried about hurting the rotor.... Thanks for the info.

The rotor is good to 220. Permanent rotor (magnet weakens) damage occurs after that. When a motor does get hot (below 220) for whatever reason, just let it cool down and it will return to normal. The motor can even get a burnt smell (lacquer got hot inside) to it, but as long as the rotor is spinning freely, your fine. When the rotor feels gummed up, a winding has been blown and you'll need a new motor.